Choice of golf ball based on price?

[putts4bogey]

Price isn't my primary deciding factor. I first look for the performance characteristics that suit my game and needs; 1. Distance, 2. The desired spin performance, 3. A "feel" I like off the putter.

[dffjunior]

Price is only a factor insomuch as it affects the score. Given the choice between $15 FG Tours and $30 Chrome, I'll play the FG Tour. I won't, however, play a $9 Black Cat if I can't control the ball and keep it on the green.

[Greenie]

I play the ball that I think fits my game the best. Price isn't a factor. Not because I can afford anything but because I don't mind playing used balls. If it's a premium ball I'll buy a large amount of them at a decent price keeping what I spend on balls down in price. I guess I might consider price if I was paying more than $2 a ball but that has never happened to me. I played Bridgestone 330s and 330 for several yrs. I now feel the NXT tours are better for me. They are even cheaper. I have a 5 gal bucket of ProV's I've picked up on the courses down in the basement. They were free to me but I never thought I played well with them so they sit.
If I had to consider price and probably would consider price if the price went out of my comfort zone I would look for something that played similar but was cheaper. IMO most people that care about what ball they play will do that. Looking for something cheaper that fits their game as well as a higher price ball. I don't play with anyone that brags that they play the ProV or anything a long those lines. So I don't know anyone that will spend the money just to say they need the premium ball or anyone that feels a premium ball will make them play better.
I would probably play worse knowing I was playing with a ball that I paid $4 for or what every a new ProV costs.

[cristphoto]

[quote name='backtees' timestamp='1392282053' post='8658111']
The choice of the right golf ball is crucial as it is a critical piece of equipment and it definitely makes a difference what ball someone is playing.

Personally I want to play the best ball, the ball that fits my game best. Price is not a key factor for me precisely because the difference, the delta, the costs of opportunity are clearly less than $60 a year (3-4 dozen a year, $15 more a dozen for better balls) and when I take into consideration how much money I spend for golf equipment, green or tournament fees, apparel and so on those $60 are negligible – which is not a snobbish attitude but simply the truth.

My quesitons to you:

1. Is the price for golf ball a deciding key factor?

2. Do you go for a cheaper golf ball even if it is clearly less performing and doesn't fit your game as good as a more expensive one?
[/quote]

I don't factor in golf ball price and here's why. I'm out playing for about 4 hours and typically I don't lose any balls as I'm fairly straight off the tee. Every now and then I do lose one, but that's golf. My normal ball is the ProV1 (most expensive), but when comparable balls are on sale I'll get them instead. Running the numbers 1 proV1 @48 per dozen equates to $4 per ball which is $1 per hour. Even getting Lethals on sale for $30 is $2.50 per ball for .63 per hour. Its not worth compromising playing what I prefer to use. It would be more cost effective to order a domestic draft beer after the round than a bottled imported one.

[swanry30]

If it fits my game I'm buying it regardless the price! Which usually means $45-50 - depending on the qty... That being said is always try to find a way to purchase my favorite ball for as cheap as possible new.


Great thread!

[DevilDog]

[quote name='Ballgofarboy' timestamp='1392317198' post='8660753']
I have said this for years, " a ball is a ball is a ball is a ball."

I have played sub par rounds using a Topflight XL5000. Shot even par with Lady precepts and some really fine scores with the low dollar sirxon balls.

I normally play Pro V1's or a Callaway 4 piece ball. Going to a multi-layered ball or playing a rock two piece, it is the loose nut on the end of the stick that is going to determine the out come of the shot.

Granted what you get it spin and stopping power will greatly vary. However, if you know where you are hitting the ball and the characteristics of the ball, you can adjust.

Does it do anything to me to play what I would deem a lesser ball? Not really, just as long as I am hitting it solid.
[/quote]

I am sure I will get criticized for agreeing with you but I do agree with you. I have shot sub par rounds with a freaking Nike PowerSoft Soft ball (green package). I don't play the ultra spinning greenside shot unless I absolutely have to. As the late Payne Stewart said, what helped him most was when he quit playing the spinning shots around the green and got the ball on the green and let it run out like a putt. Then, you can read the green like a putt and start trying to make those shots and distance control is just an adjustment like going from a slower green to a faster green. I have also found, and especially true on the firm greens of my home course, the best way to hold greens no matter what ball is a nice high iron shot. Those high shots land steeper and don't release as much.

If I can find Pro V1s cheap, like the practice version, I might buy some but mostly I play with softer cheaper balls that fly well. I tried Monte Scheinblum's recommendation of the Lady IQ last summer and it was a great ball. Not sure about the new repackaged Lady version. However, the Duo is a good ball and I might get the new Callaway a shot.

[WalleyeDave]

[quote name='Roody' timestamp='1392302599' post='8658917']
I buy used AAAA-rated Pro-V1x's from Lost Golf Balls. Comes out to about $1 a ball. Cost stays down, and quality remains high.
[/quote]I do the same thing. Last time I bought balls they were on sale, mint Taylormade Penta TP5s. 12 dozen balls came out to about 95 cents a ball.

[kemau]

[quote name='Jon H' timestamp='1392332601' post='8662717']
Playing the correct ball is still a mystery to me. The advertisements, compression, swing speeds, blah, blah, is very confusing.
[/quote]

and it will stay a mystery. these companies don't necessarily want us to be informed consumers....they [b]only[/b] want their perfectly crafted message to hit our eyes and ears so we'll come running for "the next big thing". bottom line is a wood, iron, golf ball nor putter won't magically give us a distance gain of 10-20 yards as always advertised. fundamentals of your game, instruction from your local professional and/or fitness is where it starts. it's the indian not the arrow as is said

[MonteScheinblum]

For those who like the Lady Precpt IQ, the new one isn't as good, the closest thing I could find was the Taylormade rocketballz urethane. That is what Lickliter is playing now and he likes it.

[playa]

I usualy play the cheapest premium ball I can find. I can't bring myself to playing lower tier balls, but I honestly can't tell enough difference between premium balls to justify paying more for one particular ball. Lately I've hit the jackpot as I've found the chrome+ for $30 a box. I would use these if all balls were the same price so getting them cheap is a real bonus.

[Fourmyle of Ceres]

Here's a question I wonder about occasionally. Is there any real evidence for one ball rolling more smoothly or holding its line better on the green versus another ball?

I could swear that for instance the Callaway balls with hex dimples roll out a bit farther and bobble less when the greens aren't perfect, compared to almost any other ball. And for example the ProV1 seems to roll a bit better than a NXT Tour, Velocity or DT Solo. The older Wilson balls with those pan-head dimples they used to use seemed to not hold their line as well as conventional dimples like on the FG Tour.

But it's probably like a lot other "differences" that I can convince myself I'm seeing between balls. In the end maybe more imagination or selective recall than actual, physically different behavior of the golf balls.

[backtees]

[quote name='Fourmyle of Ceres' timestamp='1392775065' post='8698323']
Here's a question I wonder about occasionally. Is there any real evidence for one ball rolling more smoothly or holding its line better on the green versus another ball?

I could swear that for instance the Callaway balls with hex dimples roll out a bit farther and bobble less when the greens aren't perfect, compared to almost any other ball. And for example the ProV1 seems to roll a bit better than a NXT Tour, Velocity or DT Solo. The older Wilson balls with those pan-head dimples they used to use seemed to not hold their line as well as conventional dimples like on the FG Tour.

But it's probably like a lot other "differences" that I can convince myself I'm seeing between balls. In the end maybe more imagination or selective recall than actual, physically different behavior of the golf balls.
[/quote]

If personal feel and observation belong to “real evidence” the answer – at least for me – is a 100% convinced YES.

What you mention about the HEX balls is what I noticed, too. And I had that feeling with Callaway balls also before the HEX-era: The absolutely superb 2-piece Big Bertha (predecessor of Big Bertha Diablo and later Diablo and HEX Diablo) was rolling like no other ball. Like it was on rails.

By the way, another observation: Bridgestone Tour B330S is always (!) shorter on putts than any other ball. Always!

[jabrch]

I buy balls when they go on sale - so I'll get premium balls for $25 a dozen. Usually not ProVs...but everyone else has sales... I tend to like Callaway and Bridgestone. Both are easy to find on sale. Also I usually buy a big bucket a year from Lostgolfballs.com - never expensive....

[jeffrey r]

I was at Golf Galaxy the other day, and a woman was checking out with a box of Titleists (probably Pro V1)--the guy rings them up, $50 out the door. I cringed. So yes, I guess price definitely enters into my equation, but isn't the deciding factor.

I used to buy used balls, but then I realized I could get new balls for the same price or cheaper. I have plenty of TP Black LDP, Penta TP3, and FG Tour Cosmetic Blemished around at under $20/doz. I still have some Gamer V2's around at like $10/doz. These may not be everyone's cup of tea, but they are all high quality balls.

I've never seen a huge difference in my scores among any number of different balls, so bottom line, I don't see myself spending more than $20/doz on golf balls anytime soon. There are simply a ton of good golf balls out there for good prices.

[Hat Trick]

Funny, I have enough money pay full price for the premium tour balls over the course of a season, but just won't do it. My inventory includes 4 DZ Pro V1Xs purchased last year at buy 3, get 1 free and 8 DZ Lethals that I paid $28 per DZ. So price matters to me. I just don't believe this year's ball is so much improved over last year's model that it will make a difference to my score.

[GoFlyers]

Cost is a deciding for me for kinda the opposite reason. Playing a $2.00 Q-Star improves my score because I can be aggressive and not worry about losing a $4.00 ball. I know it is silly but losing a $4.00 golf ball or two during a round greatly effects my play and thought process. Playing a cheaper ball, I almost never lose them during a round because I am not thinking/worried about the ball and can focus on playing golf.

[Fourmyle of Ceres]

That's absolutely a factor, [i]GoFlyers[/i]. Losing expensive balls, especially after you've already lost a couple in a round, is just another thing to put negative thoughts in your head. As if we weekend hacks don't hear enough of those little voices already!

[trapsmv15]

[quote name='MonteScheinblum' timestamp='1392760995' post='8696645']
For those who like the Lady Precpt IQ, the new one isn't as good, the closest thing I could find was the Taylormade rocketballz urethane. That is what Lickliter is playing now and he likes it.
[/quote]

Does the RBZU spin a little more on chips and pitches, Monte? Was gonna buy some of the Precepts at Walmart the other day but couldn't remember if it was the 'IQ+' or the 'IQ Plus'. Maybe I'll try these instead.

Ryan

[DFinch]

Price only factors in if the performance fits my needs. I switch ball models all the time.

ProV1x is my "price is no object" ball. Chrome+ was my "go to" ball last season due to performance/price.

The discount on Lethals probably makes it the best ball for the buck right now.

I jumped on the Precept Lady bandwagon toward the end of the season because the original Precept Lady was my favorite ball when it came out. I'll give the Rocketballz Urethane a shot here real soon.

[riehlg]

I just stick to getting golf balls off of lostgolfballs.com
I play Srixon Z-Star XV balls which are normally like 42-45 bucks a dozen new but can be had for half that price on lostgolfballs.com.

Perfect combination of performance and price.

[Dei3Nascar8]

[quote name='backtees' timestamp='1392282053' post='8658111']
The choice of the right golf ball is crucial as it is a critical piece of equipment and it definitely makes a difference what ball someone is playing.

Personally I want to play the best ball, the ball that fits my game best. Price is not a key factor for me precisely because the difference, the delta, the costs of opportunity are clearly less than $60 a year (3-4 dozen a year, $15 more a dozen for better balls) and when I take into consideration how much money I spend for golf equipment, green or tournament fees, apparel and so on those $60 are negligible – which is not a snobbish attitude but simply the truth.

My quesitons to you:

1. Is the price for golf ball a deciding key factor?[b] - T[/b][b]he ball is the only piece of equipment that i use for every shot, 100% of the time. If a $45/doz ball is what I find best for my game that is what is in the bag when it matters. I'm a ball ho and like to play around with different golf balls just to verify what I am currently gaming is still the best ball for me. For me, no, the price is not the deciding factor. Playability, especially predictability, is the deciding factor for golf ball choice.[/b]
2. Do you go for a cheaper golf ball even if it is clearly less performing and doesn't fit your game as good as a more expensive one?[b] - Absolutely not. I have tried to save a few bucks in the past and evertime I hit a ball that does not do what I want I compare them against what my gamer would have done in that situation. I like to pick a ball and play it so that I know shot to shot what I can and can't do with one.[/b]
[/quote]

[richard t]

I'm a high end guy. Well, for a while anyway. Got 2 doz ProVs for Christmas and golf store had some deal on B-330s. Got four dozen of those. 2 for price of 1 or something at the end of the year. So I'll start out with them and somewhere along the line I'll be back to e-5s and DT So-Los. Sure I like the 'high end' balls and I"ll fork out the money for clubs, green fees, etc. but I draw the line at $40.00+ for a dozen balls that don't lower my scores enough, if at all, to justify the cost. I need to start using the 'recycled' balls everyone is mentioning.

[SwingBlues]

Cost - yes & no. I am not a Titleist person, don't care much for the Prov1 or the X balls but I am more a TM ball guy. I use to be a Srixon Xv until Srixon scrwed up the ball with spin skin, forgetabout it. But...I do keep an eye on the prices of the balls and when a good TM ball is on sale - ala Lethal - I will try and pick them up cheap, a couple of boxes. I don't like losing balls so I don't keep a huge collection and technically, as my handicap improves, the ball loses decrease unless I play one of those stupid water/lake courses with tight fairways - then my trash bag of balls come out.

Yeah, good price for a good ball is what I am keeping an eye out for.

[cane700]

Until I stop losing balls in the water on a regular basis, I find that its best to buy a cheaper ball. The only problem with the cheaper balls is that they are distance balls and don't backspin well which makes my short game more difficult. Recently I discovered the Maxfli U2. I picked up a dozen and played a round with those ($10/dozen) I thought they spun well. Only issue was that they weren't durable. My game has been improving as of late and I am inching my way up the golf ball food chain. My current main ball is the HX Diablo Tour (about $17.50 a dozen) which has served my well. Also recently tried the ProVx1 and I understand why people spend the money for them. They play very well and they show no signs of wear after a round.

[gopherguts]

[quote name='GoFlyers' timestamp='1393592592' post='8763872']
Cost is a deciding for me for kinda the opposite reason. Playing a $2.00 Q-Star improves my score because I can be aggressive and not worry about losing a $4.00 ball. I know it is silly but losing a $4.00 golf ball or two during a round greatly effects my play and thought process. Playing a cheaper ball, [b]I almost never lose them during a round because I am not thinking/worried about the ball and can focus on playing golf.[/b]
[/quote]



Best post on the thread.

AND shows the power of NEGATIVE thinking.

Funny but when I first started playing and had trouble breaking 100 there was this short hole (the 3rd) over water at my course. 9 iron shot. Like many beginners I pocketed the new ball I'd started the round with and switched to a "water ball". And sure enough, more often than not, it found the water.

Didn't take me too long to figure out. I decided to "forget" about the water, used the new ball and made a "normal" swing. % of getting it over the water and onto the green went WAY up.


As for the subject it's been around before. If you're a 15 or higher it probably doesn't matter a whole lot what ball you use since you probably don't have a lot of control over it. If you're higher than that you probably lose a fair number of balls and certainly don't have much control over it. If you're an older gentleman who's clearly "distance challenged" and you (really) need the distance,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,In any of those cases I can see using whatever you want. and/or using cheaper golf balls.

If you're single digits or better you're probably a decent to terrific ball striker. IN that case, as I learned in TENNIS school, SPIN=CONTROL. I would add, for GOLF, especially around the green.

Off the driver I want respectable distance. Off the shorter irons I want the ball, under benign conditions, to "drop and stop". I don't want it releasing forward more than a club length or so. Or backing up more than that same distance. Preferably it stops right next to its pitch mark (like my old TM Reds). Off the middle irons and hybrids it still shouldn't be going very far on a well struck shot.

As for cost,,,,,,,,,,,,, I'm in the camp of "I don't care". I generally use the ProV1X although I'm always looking for a replacement for my beloved Taylor Made Red. I spend $$$ every year on equipment, shirts, greens fees. Anybody ever calculate the cost per round of say, your golf shirts ? If you spend $60 on a shirt, how many times do you wear it ? I don't know about you but I have at least 3 dozen quality golf shirts, ALL bought wholesale. That means wearing each one about twice, maybe some of them 3 times a year.

Next year do I wear them ? Well, yeah, SOME of them (maybe half). Others go to the Salvation Army or stay in the drawer never(?) to see the light of day again. 3 wearings for a $60 shirt = $20 PER ROUND. Now, I have to say though, shirts do NOT improve my game. I seldom pay more than $20 for a GOOD shirt, often last year's closeouts. So those "only" cost me about $7 per round, $3 if I use them a second season.

Point is, I don't lose a lot of balls. In fact, I can use a ProV1X for 36 holes unless I hit a cart path. So would I use a $36 or $24 a dozen golf ball to save a buck or 2 per round when I'm paying from $40-$100 a round to PLAY ? Right the first time. Absolutely not. Now that's NOT to say I wouldn't use a less costly ball IF it suited my game. I definitely would The TM Red was a 2nd tier ball to the ProVs.

Doesn't anybody here remember the experts suggesting one should choose a ball from the green back to the tee ?

As for these scratch players playing Warbirds and Lady Precepts I just have to wonder if they never shortside themselves or never shoot at front pins downwind. Or, if they do have to hit those shots, they're comfortable with 25 footers for par or 75 footers for birdie,,,,,,,,

[Jayhawkrx93]

I switched from the ProV1x to the Chrome + pretty much based on price. The performance is very close for me (the + is actually a little longer of the tee). Even with the buy 3 get 1 free the C+ works out cheaper and is a little more durable.

[dcr147]

No to both questions. This is the one area that you can't skimp on and it's at least as important , if not more, than everything else in your bag.