It just me or are a lot of pros switching to Nippon Iron Shafts?

[hokieputter]

Pretty sure the Nippon silkscreens are baked on, making them virtually impossible to remove. But has anyone found a way to do it?

[jj9000]

Pretty sure the Nippon silkscreens are baked on, making them virtually impossible to remove. But has anyone found a way to do it?

 

If you want them off...try acetone...or nail polish remover.

[hokieputter]

Pretty sure the Nippon silkscreens are baked on, making them virtually impossible to remove. But has anyone found a way to do it?

 

If you want them off...try acetone...or nail polish remover.

 

Acetone doesn't touch those things

[NRJyzr]

Pretty sure the Nippon silkscreens are baked on, making them virtually impossible to remove. But has anyone found a way to do it?

 

If you want them off...try acetone...or nail polish remover.

 

Acetone doesn't touch those things

 

 

Try a heat gun, or even a torch? Just a thought

[hokieputter]

Try a heat gun, or even a torch? Just a thought

 

Haven't tried either. Have a torch. Will investigate.

[MJL313214]

I was just fitted for 120S Hardstepped once. They are really smooth and consistent.

 

I played s300 for 10 years and PX 6.0 for the last year.

[hokieputter]

FYI - a razor blade and acetone/paint stripper works well.

[Shilgy]

Why? Just asking. :)

[hokieputter]

Why? Just asking. :)

 

Having a set built with 130s. My club builder prefers to spine/FLO everything. It's included in his build price, so why not? Labels going all over the place will drive me nuts. Tested it on one of my current gamers, ST Protos (105s).

[Shilgy]

Why? Just asking. :)

 

Having a set built with 130s. My club builder prefers to spine/FLO everything. It's included in his build price, so why not? Labels going all over the place will drive me nuts. Tested it on one of my current gamers, ST Protos (105s).

Makes sense to want to take them off in that case. From what we have read on this thread I am not sure they need to be spine/FLO'd.

[hokieputter]

Why? Just asking. :)

 

Having a set built with 130s. My club builder prefers to spine/FLO everything. It's included in his build price, so why not? Labels going all over the place will drive me nuts. Tested it on one of my current gamers, ST Protos (105s).

Makes sense to want to take them off in that case. From what we have read on this thread I am not sure they need to be spine/FLO'd.

 

Yeah, I agree they don't need to be spine/FLO'd. But it's always included in my builds, so I might as well. It's hard to argue the science behind it; however, I'm not convinced it makes a noticeable difference with the quality of today's shafts.

 

My guy always says "building a set without doing spine/FLO is like putting A1 on a filet. Ha.

[markheardjr]

No reason to spine/flow these. They have been tested independently and verified they are the the best in the industry. Honestly should just install logo's down so they aren't' all over the place. This guy sounds like a car dealership that tacks on "dealer add-ons" which are over priced and usually things you don't want, or could get done cheaper somewhere else. A pin stripe, tinted windows for $500 extra, trunk emergency kit, etc. Spine/flow/PURE-ing steel shafts is pretty much a farce anyways. And with Nippons it's completely pointless.

 

Quote from golfshaftreview:

 

Radial consistency of the Modus3 Tour 105 were perfect, averaging 99.9% with virtually no standard deviation. Any form of shaft alignment of these is a waste of time and money.

 

(About the 125's)

As I was told, the Modus3 125 sits between the other two designs. The radial quality of the samples were exceptional, 100%. Do not ever consider aligning these shafts, they are perfect.

 

I'd question your builder and ask him why he's charging for things that don't need done. Is he really a good builder if he thinks you need to spine/flo Nippon shafts? Or is he just justifying his higher build price?

[hokieputter]

He's actually good friends with Russ Ryden from golfshaftreviews.info and is one of the original guys with Russ' EI machine. I definitely have questioned him over the years and always pointed him to the exact quotes you referenced. It's the only area he disagrees with Russ. He doesn't charge anything different with or without spine/FLO, so why not?

[markheardjr]

He's actually good friends with Russ Ryden from golfshaftreviews.info and is one of the original guys with Russ' EI machine. I definitely have questioned him over the years and always pointed him to the exact quotes you referenced. It's the only area he disagrees with Russ. He doesn't charge anything different with or without spine/FLO, so why not?

Whenever I see a set of clubs with the shaft labels all in disarray I just assume someone got swindled by a clubmaker for an extra $300. Honestly think it hurts resale value if logos aren't down and aligned. To install a set of steel shafts you shouldn't be paying more than $20 a club IMO. Its not hard to dry fit a club, add some tip weight if needed and glue for desired swingweight. Then again, I do all my own work so.

 

But I can tell you the tour van installs 100% logo down. Pretty much every shaft company out there, even graphite puts it in logo down. PURE is just a marketing ploy and "spine and flo" is the same. I watched a tour van rep laugh at the PURE rep when he asked if he wanted him to pure all his tour van shafts. He basically said, if you're paying a guy I'll put the sticker on for you, but that's about it. The stickers used to always go on on the underside, aligned to logo down. Then pure started doing the wrapped ribbon. None of that matters. Frequency matching, shaft weight and swing weight is all you really need to do. Frequency matching being the most expensive which requires pricey equipment. You can weight match at home for pretty cheap.

 

Another quote for you...this time from Titleist R&D:

 

The Titleist Golf Club R&D group has conducted testing with tour and better players to compare performance between shafts that have been PURE'D and shafts that have not. We have never been able to see or measure any performance difference whatsoever. Therefore, we do not feel PURING adds any performance improvement or benefit.

 

We have no plans to offer PURE'D shafts and do not endorse or recommend the process for Titleist clubs.

[hokieputter]

Yeah, I didn't do spine/FLO on my last set (105s), for all of the reasons mentioned above. Just MOI match. Given its the same price for spine/FLO, I figured I'd give it a whirl this time. It will be interesting to see where the labels end up. I can't handle labels going everywhere, which is why I was asking about removing the silkscreens.

 

Any truth to the high end graphite OEMs doing the spine/FLO/PURE'ing process before applying graphics? Thought I remember reading that on here somewhere.

[PapaJohick]

Yeah, I didn't do spine/FLO on my last set (105s), for all of the reasons mentioned above. Just MOI match. Given its the same price for spine/FLO, I figured I'd give it a whirl this time. It will be interesting to see where the labels end up. I can't handle labels going everywhere, which is why I was asking about removing the silkscreens.

 

Any truth to the high end graphite OEMs doing the spine/FLO/PURE'ing process before applying graphics? Thought I remember reading that on here somewhere.

 

I thought I read Fuji does do this. If you see where their manufacturing sticker under the grip is, there is a line marked I believe and I have always noticed it lines up with the graphics pointing down when in the 9 or 3 position.

[markheardjr]

Yeah, I didn't do spine/FLO on my last set (105s), for all of the reasons mentioned above. Just MOI match. Given its the same price for spine/FLO, I figured I'd give it a whirl this time. It will be interesting to see where the labels end up. I can't handle labels going everywhere, which is why I was asking about removing the silkscreens.

 

Any truth to the high end graphite OEMs doing the spine/FLO/PURE'ing process before applying graphics? Thought I remember reading that on here somewhere.

 

I thought I read Fuji does do this. If you see where their manufacturing sticker under the grip is, there is a line marked I believe and I have always noticed it lines up with the graphics pointing down when in the 9 or 3 position.

I'm not positive that is marking the spine so much as it is used to align where the layers of the graphics go. I have seen a lot of OEM's with a line on their shaft and they always seem to line up with the graphics. GD has started putting raised authentication stickers on the butt of the shaft. Apparently they don't think the weight of that plastic feeling sticker is enough to throw off the spine measurements they just did? It's all nonsense. Graphics down, hit the ball. All that other crap is to appease between the ears for people looking to blame their old set for performance issues.

 

I think the industry has moved beyond the 1990's technology that maybe was outdated enough to necessitate a need for such practices but these OEM's seem to produce quality products these days. If you can measure it and it's already beyond 6 sigmas the rest isn't going to matter for a human. Even on robots they can't measure any difference. That should tell you it's all mental.

[hokieputter]

We're definitely to a point where manufacturing processes have improved tremendously. Allowing all OEMs to put out much more consistent, quality products.

 

And golf is all mental!!

[PapaJohick]

Oh I agree that it's silly. A lot of money for a thing that we are pretty dang are it doesn't do anything to help haha.

 

 

[HidekiWoods]

Any recommendations on a wedge shaft to compliment modus 105x iron shafts? I do not have a problem spinning the ball and would like something that you can control the flight with.

 

Did some research, and it looks like some people said new wv115 or 120 stiff.

 

TIA

[hokieputter]

Any recommendations on a wedge shaft to compliment modus 105x iron shafts? I do not have a problem spinning the ball and would like something that you can control the flight with.

 

Did some research, and it looks like some people said new wv115 or 120 stiff.

 

TIA

 

I play the 105X ssx1 in 4 thru gap with the 115s in my 54 & 58. I think they pair well together.

[markheardjr]

Any recommendations on a wedge shaft to compliment modus 105x iron shafts? I do not have a problem spinning the ball and would like something that you can control the flight with.

 

Did some research, and it looks like some people said new wv115 or 120 stiff.

 

TIA

 

If you don't need the extra spin and want to be able to flight lower more easily you may want to look at the original WV115. The new Modus wedge has a softer lower section which gives a little extra spin. Also I feel the older models feel a bit firmer and coming from an X the new Modus line, the 115 will feel pretty soft. Like an R/S flex IMO.

[Deuce78]

Any recommendations on a wedge shaft to compliment modus 105x iron shafts? I do not have a problem spinning the ball and would like something that you can control the flight with.

 

Did some research, and it looks like some people said new wv115 or 120 stiff.

 

TIA

 

Why not consider the 125x iron wedge shaft...? I have the 105x hardstepped in a set and I did try the 125x iron and WV125 in wedges. I liked the WV, however full disclosure, I ended up going dgti x100 in the wedges, and for whatever reason, I have a modus 130x softepped in my lob wedge that for whatever reason

Has worked better around the green than x100 just in that slot. I am going to try the WV in an identical love wedge just for sh%ts and giggles ..... also, I am going to give the 120tx a run in a test an iron against my 105x hardstepped, and 130s hardstepped sets.....

[t4t3r]

Going to search some as this might have been answered at some point, but in the mean time...

 

Mark - what do you recommend if I'm not liking the results of 120x with aggressive swings? As I'm putting more rounds on them I am starting to feel like a smooth swing is the only way to go in order to get the timing right, and aggressive swings I lose that timing and some of feel for where I'm at in the swing. It's not a bad thing but can't help wonder if there is something that can handle both? TX or a different profile like 125? Have been searching for a set of 130s to try also.

[markheardjr]

Going to search some as this might have been answered at some point, but in the mean time...

 

Mark - what do you recommend if I'm not liking the results of 120x with aggressive swings? As I'm putting more rounds on them I am starting to feel like a smooth swing is the only way to go in order to get the timing right, and aggressive swings I lose that timing and some of feel for where I'm at in the swing. It's not a bad thing but can't help wonder if there is something that can handle both? TX or a different profile like 125? Have been searching for a set of 130s to try also.

TX if you like the rest of the performance and could be ok with slightly lower launch / spin possibility. 130S for a firmer feel but probably higher launch and heavier. I'd probably point you to 125X, possibly soft-stepped. Firmer butt section will firm up the feel and seems to handle aggressive tempos much better than 120. Results vary launch/spin changes, each person has to try to see for themselves.

[t4t3r]

Going to search some as this might have been answered at some point, but in the mean time...

 

Mark - what do you recommend if I'm not liking the results of 120x with aggressive swings? As I'm putting more rounds on them I am starting to feel like a smooth swing is the only way to go in order to get the timing right, and aggressive swings I lose that timing and some of feel for where I'm at in the swing. It's not a bad thing but can't help wonder if there is something that can handle both? TX or a different profile like 125? Have been searching for a set of 130s to try also.

TX if you like the rest of the performance and could be ok with slightly lower launch / spin possibility. 130S for a firmer feel but probably higher launch and heavier. I'd probably point you to 125X, possibly soft-stepped. Firmer butt section will firm up the feel and seems to handle aggressive tempos much better than 120. Results vary launch/spin changes, each person has to try to see for themselves.

 

Much appreciated!

[Deuce78]

Going to search some as this might have been answered at some point, but in the mean time...

 

Mark - what do you recommend if I'm not liking the results of 120x with aggressive swings? As I'm putting more rounds on them I am starting to feel like a smooth swing is the only way to go in order to get the timing right, and aggressive swings I lose that timing and some of feel for where I'm at in the swing. It's not a bad thing but can't help wonder if there is something that can handle both? TX or a different profile like 125? Have been searching for a set of 130s to try also.

TX if you like the rest of the performance and could be ok with slightly lower launch / spin possibility. 130S for a firmer feel but probably higher launch and heavier. I'd probably point you to 125X, possibly soft-stepped. Firmer butt section will firm up the feel and seems to handle aggressive tempos much better than 120. Results vary launch/spin changes, each person has to try to see for themselves.

 

Much appreciated!

 

I have a set of soft stepped 130x I could sell you for a good deal if you want to try them...

[Drak76]

So I have read all of the 110 pages. "all credit to me" (Darth Monty")

 

I am big fan of Nippon shafts, I have played/tried almost all (120S, 130S, 130X, 125X, 105X, SPBx, SPOx, various wedges). Although I am quite happy with the current set MP25 with 105X, I have decided to get another set and compare. I was very fortunate to acquire Cally Legacy Black 2011 (Stenson model), I believe those are higher launching irons than MP25, I was looking for something lower launching. To be honest I had never given a proper chance to 120S, it was just little too "weak" (I don't want to use the word soft), and my dispersion wasn't good. But the fact that my swing is the most efficient with shafts of raw weight around 115 grams made my decision bit complicated. I was leaning towards 120S hard stepped, but since I tried that shaft, although long time ago (5 yrs) I have decided to try X flex soft stepped although it might be few grams heavier than ideal weight.

 

Good luck to you all with searching, and if you have few hours of free time like I do nowadays, please read the entire chat. It is worth it (at least most of it). Thanks Mark

[mumuland]

Has anyone hard stepped the modus shafts? If so, what did you do for PW? Thanks!

[markheardjr]

Has anyone hard stepped the modus shafts? If so, what did you do for PW? Thanks!

 

Hardstepping a Nippon is using 37" for both PW and 9. I suppose that means PW is the same in normal or hardstepped set up.