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Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)


Bigmean

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If anyone wants a older set of Titleist 80's model heads to play around or experiment with, I have these laying around. They have been rode hard and put up wet, but there is still some life left to them. I was going to put some recycled tapered tip DG's in them and tinker with length and lies, but I am going with the Adams GT's instead.

 

2-PW

 

If anyone wants them, just cover the cost of shipping and they are yours.

 

 

They look like they are in pretty good condition too! Wish I wasn't half a world away on a ship...and had been nicer to you... about...your moped... :cheesy:

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Yeah I split hairs on workability (as a blades 'snob'). It is a subtle difference. I could not tell workability differences between mp60s and AP2s as compared to mp67s unless I was doing a side by side immediate comparison. Not saying your experience was wrong, but LOL I challenge you to do a direct comparison (of workability and feel) of 6is between your Tourneys and those. Then let's compare notes again.

 

BTW those Tourneys in your avatar are sweet!

 

So I accept the fact that I am not the greatest golfer and sometimes it's absolutely hilarious to learn the real term for the things I do and experience. This being said, is the lack of workability why I feel like the CB just sort of shotguns its way down the course? I have some idea where it will go and it's easy to hit, but it's a cone of forward progress. I feel like the MP-4's go more toward where I want them to go or hard right if I catch it on the toe. I feel like I got the same basic impulse from the 804OS, but the shots could be going anywhere. While it was easier to make it go down the course, I felt like when I had a good shot, I had less of an influence on where it might end up and as such ended up playing a bigger wedge game than normal.

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Callaway Mini, TMAG mini, TEE 11.5, etc.

 

Any general agreement as to what the most low/low driver alternative is?

X2Hot 2Deep ,of course, been called a contrarian before

 

Agree ! 2 deep is better than the TM mini driver for sure. But also if you can find a RBZ 13 tour spoon then I'd say is my favorite ! ..... Sorry had to rub that one in !

 

I know a guy who may have a "spoon"

AI Smoke TD 9° w/HZRDUS Yellow

Epic Flash 12.5° w/Voodoo VS

'24 Apex UW 19° w/Rogue Silver

Epic Flash 20° w/VS Proto 
'19 Apex Pro 5-9 w/DG

MD2 47° & 52° + PM 1.0 58° & 64° w/DG
Odyssey White Hot 2 Ball Frankenstein (Fowler style)
[img]http://pxc86358mpx1hyn3hdxen4o1.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/171831.png[/img]

 

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Yeah I split hairs on workability (as a blades 'snob'). It is a subtle difference. I could not tell workability differences between mp60s and AP2s as compared to mp67s unless I was doing a side by side immediate comparison. Not saying your experience was wrong, but LOL I challenge you to do a direct comparison (of workability and feel) of 6is between your Tourneys and those. Then let's compare notes again.

 

BTW those Tourneys in your avatar are sweet!

 

So I accept the fact that I am not the greatest golfer and sometimes it's absolutely hilarious to learn the real term for the things I do and experience. This being said, is the lack of workability why I feel like the CB just sort of shotguns its way down the course? I have some idea where it will go and it's easy to hit, but it's a cone of forward progress. I feel like the MP-4's go more toward where I want them to go or hard right if I catch it on the toe. I feel like I got the same basic impulse from the 804OS, but the shots could be going anywhere. While it was easier to make it go down the course, I felt like when I had a good shot, I had less of an influence on where it might end up and as such ended up playing a bigger wedge game than normal.

 

The less workability and therefore less precision of a CB is inherent in its design. The CB trampoline like face has varying flex all over it. When the edges are perimeter weighted, the face wall thickness gets thinner. And the thinner the face, the proportionately more it flexes. Also the perimeter geometry defines how the overall face will end up flexing and because of the pear shape of the head, there will NEVER be a consistent flex at differing points all over the face. The edges of the face will flex the least because they are the closest to the thicker perimeter. As you get away from the edges of the face, and more towards the "center", the face flexes more and more given the same force. Just like a trampoline, you bounce straight up and down at the very middle, but as you go towards the edges, you bounce back towards the middle. A ball impacting a CB face behaves much like this so when you are not that precise with a CB club in hitting the sweetspot, then you will end up putting varying direction spin on the ball that ends up making it go "somewhat" straight, but never precisely straight.

 

On top of this issue is that the trampoline CB face flexes inwards more, too, so that means the overall compression on the ball is less which ultimately means it doesn't spin the ball as much as a blade, relatively speaking and all other things equal.

 

So the more CB and SGI you go, the thinner the face wall thickness gets, which then makes it harder and harder to hit the ball to a precise spot and also to put precise spin on the ball (making it harder to work).

 

A blade face will also flex, but it will be proportionately much less based on how thick its face is compared to the above CB. And because of this design you will get a more consistent (and less overall) flex during impact with the ball. And furthermore impact does NOT have to be at the exact same spot. The flex of the face will still be the same because of that thick wall. There is a portion of a blade face that is just like the thick part of a baseball bat. You can still hit a good shot along the length of the blade no different than a baseball player can hit a home run by making contact with any part of the fat section of the bat.

 

For example, today I hit probably my best iron shot of the season. I used a 4i to hit a 160 yard shot (par 3 hole) into a 10 mph headwind. I set up for a 5 yard cut and just nutted it pure as pure could be. I felt like a PLAYA!!! The feel was that almost-as-good-as-sex blades feel. And I knew it was going to be good. It turned into the flagstick and I heard it hit it. I could not see where it landed and thought it could be in the hole. As I approached I saw it was short and below the hole. As I got closer I saw there was a ball mark inches from the cup. Here is the "proof"

 

 

 

 

I hit exactly the shot I wanted and in my experience and based on the science, the blade delivered. I know it is possible to hit the same shot with a CB, but also in my experience it is more rare the more CB like club I use. I made the putt for birdie and shot 39 over nine. 'twas an awesome day of blades golf!

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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If anyone wants a older set of Titleist 80's model heads to play around or experiment with, I have these laying around. They have been rode hard and put up wet, but there is still some life left to them. I was going to put some recycled tapered tip DG's in them and tinker with length and lies, but I am going with the Adams GT's instead.

 

2-PW

 

If anyone wants them, just cover the cost of shipping and they are yours.

 

 

They look like they are in pretty good condition too! Wish I wasn't half a world away on a ship...and had been nicer to you... about...your moped... :cheesy:

 

Most of us old sailors can take it, as well as dish it out. I actually liked the analogy. ;)

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If anyone wants a older set of Titleist 80's model heads to play around or experiment with, I have these laying around. They have been rode hard and put up wet, but there is still some life left to them. I was going to put some recycled tapered tip DG's in them and tinker with length and lies, but I am going with the Adams GT's instead.

 

2-PW

 

If anyone wants them, just cover the cost of shipping and they are yours.

 

 

They look like they are in pretty good condition too! Wish I wasn't half a world away on a ship...and had been nicer to you... about...your moped... :cheesy:

 

Most of us old sailors can take it, as well as dish it out. I actually liked the analogy. ;)

Good to know! I am in the Merchant Marine side of things and the guys out here these days...their skin is super thin. Cutting remarks are liable to cause one to bleed out and posterior discomfort..aka butthurt...is rampant. Cheers!

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The less workability and therefore less precision of a CB is inherent in its design. The CB trampoline like face has varying flex all over it. When the edges are perimeter weighted, the face wall thickness gets thinner. And the thinner the face, the proportionately more it flexes. Also the perimeter geometry defines how the overall face will end up flexing and because of the pear shape of the head, there will NEVER be a consistent flex at differing points all over the face. The edges of the face will flex the least because they are the closest to the thicker perimeter. As you get away from the edges of the face, and more towards the "center", the face flexes more and more given the same force. Just like a trampoline, you bounce straight up and down at the very middle, but as you go towards the edges, you bounce back towards the middle. A ball impacting a CB face behaves much like this so when you are not that precise with a CB club in hitting the sweetspot, then you will end up putting varying direction spin on the ball that ends up making it go "somewhat" straight, but never precisely straight.

 

On top of this issue is that the trampoline CB face flexes inwards more, too, so that means the overall compression on the ball is less which ultimately means it doesn't spin the ball as much as a blade, relatively speaking and all other things equal.

 

So the more CB and SGI you go, the thinner the face wall thickness gets, which then makes it harder and harder to hit the ball to a precise spot and also to put precise spin on the ball (making it harder to work).

 

A blade face will also flex, but it will be proportionately much less based on how thick its face is compared to the above CB. And because of this design you will get a more consistent (and less overall) flex during impact with the ball. And furthermore impact does NOT have to be at the exact same spot. The flex of the face will still be the same because of that thick wall. There is a portion of a blade face that is just like the thick part of a baseball bat. You can still hit a good shot along the length of the blade no different than a baseball player can hit a home run by making contact with any part of the fat section of the bat.

 

For example, today I hit probably my best iron shot of the season. I used a 4i to hit a 160 yard shot (par 3 hole) into a 10 mph headwind. I set up for a 5 yard cut and just nutted it pure as pure could be. I felt like a PLAYA!!! The feel was that almost-as-good-as-sex blades feel. And I knew it was going to be good. It turned into the flagstick and I heard it hit it. I could not see where it landed and thought it could be in the hole. As I approached I saw it was short and below the hole. As I got closer I saw there was a ball mark inches from the cup. Here is the "proof"

 

I hit exactly the shot I wanted and in my experience and based on the science, the blade delivered. I know it is possible to hit the same shot with a CB, but also in my experience it is more rare the more CB like club I use. I made the putt for birdie and shot 39 over nine. 'twas an awesome day of blades golf!

 

Thank you for the explanation. It makes perfect sense. I don't hold it against the CB, but it does annoy me just a little bit that it is so imprecise. I am working on consistency and would like to know that when I do it right I have less chance for a maybe. I do not care if only 1 in 10 are right, but they better well be good to go and not botched.

 

For those who care to follow my shipboard practice, I have been reading the tips out of the GD magazines and practicing them with wedges because they are short enough to be maneuvered in the room. I have the foam balls and practice chipping with them. I don't think it is doing me good for feel, but it sure is fun. I am certain that it drives the person below me crazy. Putting is an exercise in futility, but fun all the more to try to counter the rolling of the ship and hit a chair leg from ten feet away. It's as exciting as sinking a 30 foot putt and more.

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The less workability and therefore less precision of a CB is inherent in its design. The CB trampoline like face has varying flex all over it. When the edges are perimeter weighted, the face wall thickness gets thinner. And the thinner the face, the proportionately more it flexes. Also the perimeter geometry defines how the overall face will end up flexing and because of the pear shape of the head, there will NEVER be a consistent flex at differing points all over the face. The edges of the face will flex the least because they are the closest to the thicker perimeter. As you get away from the edges of the face, and more towards the "center", the face flexes more and more given the same force. Just like a trampoline, you bounce straight up and down at the very middle, but as you go towards the edges, you bounce back towards the middle. A ball impacting a CB face behaves much like this so when you are not that precise with a CB club in hitting the sweetspot, then you will end up putting varying direction spin on the ball that ends up making it go "somewhat" straight, but never precisely straight.

 

On top of this issue is that the trampoline CB face flexes inwards more, too, so that means the overall compression on the ball is less which ultimately means it doesn't spin the ball as much as a blade, relatively speaking and all other things equal.

 

So the more CB and SGI you go, the thinner the face wall thickness gets, which then makes it harder and harder to hit the ball to a precise spot and also to put precise spin on the ball (making it harder to work).

 

A blade face will also flex, but it will be proportionately much less based on how thick its face is compared to the above CB. And because of this design you will get a more consistent (and less overall) flex during impact with the ball. And furthermore impact does NOT have to be at the exact same spot. The flex of the face will still be the same because of that thick wall. There is a portion of a blade face that is just like the thick part of a baseball bat. You can still hit a good shot along the length of the blade no different than a baseball player can hit a home run by making contact with any part of the fat section of the bat.

 

For example, today I hit probably my best iron shot of the season. I used a 4i to hit a 160 yard shot (par 3 hole) into a 10 mph headwind. I set up for a 5 yard cut and just nutted it pure as pure could be. I felt like a PLAYA!!! The feel was that almost-as-good-as-sex blades feel. And I knew it was going to be good. It turned into the flagstick and I heard it hit it. I could not see where it landed and thought it could be in the hole. As I approached I saw it was short and below the hole. As I got closer I saw there was a ball mark inches from the cup. Here is the "proof"

 

I hit exactly the shot I wanted and in my experience and based on the science, the blade delivered. I know it is possible to hit the same shot with a CB, but also in my experience it is more rare the more CB like club I use. I made the putt for birdie and shot 39 over nine. 'twas an awesome day of blades golf!

 

Thank you for the explanation. It makes perfect sense. I don't hold it against the CB, but it does annoy me just a little bit that it is so imprecise. I am working on consistency and would like to know that when I do it right I have less chance for a maybe. I do not care if only 1 in 10 are right, but they better well be good to go and not botched.

 

For those who care to follow my shipboard practice, I have been reading the tips out of the GD magazines and practicing them with wedges because they are short enough to be maneuvered in the room. I have the foam balls and practice chipping with them. I don't think it is doing me good for feel, but it sure is fun. I am certain that it drives the person below me crazy. Putting is an exercise in futility, but fun all the more to try to counter the rolling of the ship and hit a chair leg from ten feet away. It's as exciting as sinking a 30 foot putt and more.

 

Yes a CB can be quite the annoying club to use. Hence my preference to never use one again. And I don't hold it against the CB too. I hold everything against the lead design engineers that make "forgiving" irons. Somewhere up the club design food chain there are engineers that know the inherent issues with the designs of CBs that make things WORSE for a golfer as compared to blades. In fact, the same HALF-TRUTH marketed "technology" is tied to the same physics that make things worse! They sell the "forgiving" iron based on the technology of perimeter weighting: 1) the higher the perimeter weighting, the higher the clubhead MOI and the theoretically less it will twist on off center contact and 2) the higher the perimeter weighting, the lower the CG and the theoretically higher it will launch the ball. These are both theoretically "true", but I called it a HALF-TRUTH because what's missing in the "technology" sold are the issues with workability and dispersion (both also tied to the perimeter weighting "technology" as I explained) and hitting the ground more often (again because perimeter weighting makes the sole so big). As mentioned, the CB design has inherent issues and there are lead designers that know this all but yet stand behind the "product" like it is some panacea for a golfer's bad swing. "Forgiveness" as marketed is hogwash from a technical perspective and that is precisely why it is annoying as all get out to me. The theory of it all is grossly incomplete and the ignorant golfer eats it up based on the incomplete marketing. The whole "forgiving" club industry is "engineering" clubs to be incrementally WORSE (in numerous ways) and at some level there are technical folks that know this as they laugh on their way to the bank. And as a technical person that simply wants his golf clubs to help his game, this is highly annoying.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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If anyone wants a older set of Titleist 80's model heads to play around or experiment with, I have these laying around. They have been rode hard and put up wet, but there is still some life left to them. I was going to put some recycled tapered tip DG's in them and tinker with length and lies, but I am going with the Adams GT's instead.

 

2-PW

 

If anyone wants them, just cover the cost of shipping and they are yours.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They're like the clubs I ended up playing as a Junior, except I think mine were an earlier edition (I bought them secondhand in 1988 or 89, so I don't know their full history). Mine have the "forged" stamping towards the heel, and there is knurling on the hosel is like two bands of slashes: //////////

 

Edit: wahey! This post made Page 300! :yahoo:

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If anyone wants a older set of Titleist 80's model heads to play around or experiment with, I have these laying around. They have been rode hard and put up wet, but there is still some life left to them. I was going to put some recycled tapered tip DG's in them and tinker with length and lies, but I am going with the Adams GT's instead.

 

2-PW

 

If anyone wants them, just cover the cost of shipping and they are yours.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The heads are spoken for guys.

 

Thx.

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Only 300 pages.

So much for all the modern day predictions that blades are dead or that players are no longer interested in them.

 

Forged blade lover myself, but I also enjoy some of the GI clubs out there.

 

I used to switch from the Macgregors in my avatar, to Ping Zing in the winters. You can't get much more radical than that........visually speaking.

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I got a taylormade R580? Or something like that (Cartridge in back) with an good prototype shaft in it, gripped it last night, head looks small. Going to do some work on the launch monitor if no rain next weekend......and it was free of charge! My bro had it from the tour pro that lived by us, must have been one of his later clubs given out. I am pretty sure it pre dates my R7.

 

My desire to play with irons has gone from little none, just spent my eBay account in sunglasses and other non golf things, my bag is cement for next year driver aside and even that I feel like is going to stay ryoma. I would like to try a roddio driver, but not $450 bad enough, and I can't sell my ryoma to do it because it is all Indian issues and I really like that club when I am hitting it ok. If I can get a roddio driver for sub $350 to my door maybe I will pull the trigger, but I am zero rush. I am thinking about giving a less spinning ball like a Bridgestone e6 a shot around greens next year in some effort to help my driver woes. May make that change when I run out of dicks pro vxouts.

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Well folks. Played in a great skins match today in 40 degree temps. Needless to say ball wasn't flying far and pars where good today. We had 16 players. I'll spare you the shot by shot and just say. I took the pot minus 1 skin which was an eagle. Had 5 birdies on the back nine. 3 where in a row. ! 2nd 18 holes with the small blades. And man I am so in tune with them. They truly are easier to hit than most.

Callaway epic max LS 9* GD-M9003 7x 

TM Sim2 max tour  16* GD  ADHD 8x 

srixon zx 19* elements 9F5T 

Cobra king SZ 25.5* KBS TD cat 5 70 

TM p7mc 5-pw Mmt125tx 

Mizuno T22 raw 52-56-60 s400

LAB Mezz Max armlock 

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Very nice hat trick there, Sir bladehunter. You are making me miss my BBs.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Biggie, have you tried the King LTD? I'm a fairly cheap so and so, the LTD is so good I actually bought one, new.

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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So I've been putting with my wedge since my recent struggles with the putter. I can get a good roll with the putter (nike b1-01), I just fail to aim it easily or produce a natural stroke. I have to manipulate it or else I hook and slice putts all day.

 

Well come to find out, Its much easier putting with my wedge. The club gates so naturally that I don't have to think about the stroke plus the lack of offset makes it easier to aim. With this recent revelation I went ahead and made an impulse buy (is there any other way to purchase new clubs?).

 

Picked up a Flanigan 8802 style putter. A different kind of blade, but I wanted to share it with you all anyway. Anybody have experience with these? s-l1600.jpgs-l1600.jpgs-l1600.jpg

I putt with my wedge all the time.....if I hit GIR, I bring putter, if I don't I chip up and use wedge for putting as well.....I putt better with wedge than I do with putter and though kinda sad it works really well usually
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I got a taylormade R580? Or something like that (Cartridge in back) with an good prototype shaft in it, gripped it last night, head looks small. Going to do some work on the launch monitor if no rain next weekend......and it was free of charge! My bro had it from the tour pro that lived by us, must have been one of his later clubs given out. I am pretty sure it pre dates my R7.

 

My desire to play with irons has gone from little none, just spent my eBay account in sunglasses and other non golf things, my bag is cement for next year driver aside and even that I feel like is going to stay ryoma. I would like to try a roddio driver, but not $450 bad enough, and I can't sell my ryoma to do it because it is all Indian issues and I really like that club when I am hitting it ok. If I can get a roddio driver for sub $350 to my door maybe I will pull the trigger, but I am zero rush. I am thinking about giving a less spinning ball like a Bridgestone e6 a shot around greens next year in some effort to help my driver woes. May make that change when I run out of dicks pro vxouts.

The 580 did indeed precede the r7. Around 400cc and a very good driver in it's day. The 580xd was the one to have. There was both a conforming and non conforming version.

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This thread has brought back so much joy to my game. I started with j33b then went to j33cb, j40cb, and now back to j15mb because of this thread. They are really helping my ballstriking tremendously. The cb backs were great but the look and feel of a blade makes me wonder why i ever left. thankyou Bigmean for starting this thread and everyone else who has contributed.

It only hurts once, except golf it hurts a lifetime

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I am in a self induced fiscally conservative state due to a looming opportunity that could put me into a few lean years with an extraordinary pay off. MIURA: Mortgage, Insurance, Utilities, Repasts, Automobile.

 

Right now my MP-4's are traveling the world with me via ship. I may get some time at a driving range in Bremerhaven, Germany. If my connection was stronger I would be able to see how far the driving range is from the Deutsche Seemans Mission, but alas it is not.

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I just picked up a set of Nike VR Pro Blades. Been wanting to try these babies out for a while but finally pulled the trigger on them. I want to be like Tiger and Rory out there on the course lol. Anyone have any experience with them? Love them or hate them? I currently have MP33s MP5s AP2s, and just sold off my MP32s and MP4s.

 

I need to slap on some grips for them before I can take them to the range so I was hoping to read up with the blade boys here for any thoughts on the forging or feel etc.

 

IMG_3807_zps8a1zcsny.jpg

TSR3|10.0|Tour AD-DI 6S TSi2|14.5|Tensei Blue 7S TSi2|21|HZDUS Smoke 6.0 MP-18 MMC Fli Hi 5i & 6i|KBS C-Taper Lite S MP-18 SC (Mizuno Pro Limited Copper) 6-PW|KBS Tour S Vokey SM7 50.F Slate Blue|Modus 125 Vokey SM7 54.S Slate Blue|Modus 125 Vokey SM7 58.K Slate Blue|Modus 125 Scotty Cameron Tour Brushed Black CARBON Timeless Circle T 350G Pro V1X

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Darkmeat, the VR Pro is a solid, no nonsense blade. You can't go wrong with them. I'd be curious to know your thoughts on how they compare to your mp33s. I hit the VR Pro 6i recently in a head to head comparison with my Retro TB 6i and performance was equivalent. The feel was slightly different.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Thanks for your input DeNinny! I'm really anxious to try these out.

 

Once I slap on my White/Black MCC grips too look like Rory, (minus the project X shafts) lol, then I'll bring them to the range with my MP33s and let you know my thoughts. Would be a pretty good comparison since both sets have S300 shafts in them.

 

Is there any truth to these Nikes being forged in the same factory that Miura irons use?

TSR3|10.0|Tour AD-DI 6S TSi2|14.5|Tensei Blue 7S TSi2|21|HZDUS Smoke 6.0 MP-18 MMC Fli Hi 5i & 6i|KBS C-Taper Lite S MP-18 SC (Mizuno Pro Limited Copper) 6-PW|KBS Tour S Vokey SM7 50.F Slate Blue|Modus 125 Vokey SM7 54.S Slate Blue|Modus 125 Vokey SM7 58.K Slate Blue|Modus 125 Scotty Cameron Tour Brushed Black CARBON Timeless Circle T 350G Pro V1X

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I just picked up a set of Nike VR Pro Blades. Been wanting to try these babies out for a while but finally pulled the trigger on them. I want to be like Tiger and Rory out there on the course lol. Anyone have any experience with them? Love them or hate them? I currently have MP33s MP5s AP2s, and just sold off my MP32s and MP4s.

 

I need to slap on some grips for them before I can take them to the range so I was hoping to read up with the blade boys here for any thoughts on the forging or feel etc.

 

IMG_3807_zps8a1zcsny.jpg

 

My nephew plays a set of the VR Pro's and he is very very good with them. Great set of irons. You will enjoy hitting them.

Titleist TSR4 8*  Ventus Black TR 6x
Titleist TSr3 13.5 Ventus Black TR 7x
Mizuno Pro 221 4-pw Modus 125x
Vokey SM9 52.08F 56.08M 60.04T
Scotty Newport Button Back or
Scotty Select 1/500 Newport Black Mist

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Doaner84

 

Those Bridgestone blades are great. I love the simplicity of the design, and they feel great. Incidentally, I hit the 7i alongside the new Bridgestone cavity (or player's cavity, I didn't look that closely), and the difference in the feel of the strike was enormous. Obviously, the blade was better. Much, much better.

Unfortunately, the shop didn't have the new Bridgestone MB out to demo.

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I am in a self induced fiscally conservative state due to a looming opportunity that could put me into a few lean years with an extraordinary pay off. MIURA: Mortgage, Insurance, Utilities, Repasts, Automobile.

 

Right now my MP-4's are traveling the world with me via ship. I may get some time at a driving range in Bremerhaven, Germany. If my connection was stronger I would be able to see how far the driving range is from the Deutsche Seemans Mission, but alas it is not.

 

If you're "slumming" it with MP-4s, you're still doing pretty well!

I, too, would like to try Miuras one day, but I don't think it is going to happen anytime soon.

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