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Driver Cut to 3 wood Ala 42" driver


Exactice808

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Super weird question......just got the Roger Dunn add and was advertising the "original 1" mini TM driver

also saw a couple, "Off" the tee 3 wood threads"....

 

If the driver is absolutely bonkers and I have had those days....... I end up using my 4iron and or 5 wood to get off the tee.... BUT in all fairness some days nothing off the tee works per say..... Long big headed driver just wackos..... and 4iron is too small.....

 

Would not a benefit of a teed up 460cc head be a premium? Compared to a smaller head 3wood?

Just curious? I saw the Cameron Champ Bag with a 44.75" shaft....

 

I am assuming the biggest issue would be swing weight? But anyone ever played with a 42" Driver? How has that worked out? Never tried, but my driver has always been wild and got a couple shafts and heads laying around just to try for the heck of it?

 

 

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Scotty Newport 2 - 33"

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I think lots of players have tried this over the years ("thriver" was a term used a while back) and a lot of them had decent success. It certainly can't hurt to give it a go. I've played a 460cc driver as short as 43", and it was fine, but I'm now back to 44" as I've gotten more comfortable with that club.

 

The simplest experiment of all is to just choke up on your existing club for a round / range session or two. But cutting a shaft at the handle end is a very simple operation, too.

 

You can always add some lead tape on the head to keep the swingweight up, but driver swingweights are sort of a mixed bag anyway, and often don't match the rest of your bag even when "stock". If you want to add a bit of lead tape later, it's trivial to do so. Ultimately, if you don't like it even after you cut the shaft, you can add a simple extension back to the butt end at minimal cost (I'm in the camp that a properly fitted extension doesn't harm the playability of a club one bit.)

 

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> @Barfolomew said:

> You're logic is sound! My miniature friend plays a 41" M2 driver.... I hit that thing way further then a 3 wood. Swing weight was light but that was no issue...

 

Thats what I was wondering? I mean honestly I spray my driver.....yet the common cut it down to 44inches..... didnt seem much... And Honestly my 3 wood is an honest crap shoot.... But if I cut it way down to say 42" would that really help accuracy?

 

I just figured why settle for a small Sub 300cc head when you can have a Full 460CC head?

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Scotty Newport 2 - 33"

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> @gbartwrx said:

> Not necessarily. The 460cc head looks ridiculous on a 42" club imo. I play the TM Original One or Ping Rapture because I have some mental block about heads larger than say a 510 TP. I play them at 43.75". I don't want to give up distance but a large head costs me personally at least 4-5 strokes per round.

>

>

>

>

>

>

 

Fair enough! If its a mental thing...... right now whats mental is losing strokes going OB or Jail or water, spraying my driver. Head of the club doesnt bother me, just wish I could hit my drive straight like my 8 iron,..... Hate to think I have a tool that has capability, but its just worthless... funny now heading to range usually save the last 10-20 balls for the driver....now swapping than... hitting about 50+ with driver now... and saving the remaining for irons and chipping etc.

TM - Stealth 1.0 - Rouge 70X
TM 15* M2v1 - RIP Phenom 60S
TM 18* M2v1 - Rogue 60S
Sub70- 649mbs-PW-6 ,639 CBs-5-4   PX 6.0 Rifles - Incoming Sub70 659CB!!!!!!!
Vokey SM7 - 50*/8*, 56*/10* & 60*/8* S200
Scotty Newport 2 - 33"

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Surely the physical size of a 460 head 'should' be more forgiving than a 3 wood head, whether at a length of 41" or 47"!. It's for this reason that I'm also going shorter (43 3/4" from 45 1/2") and removing the 3 wood entirely. I'm ok for a little distance loss (if any) but I definitely need better dispersion. I have a TM R15 built at 43" and I'm definitely more accurate with it but it feels like crap, so what not play my preferred driver head (F9) shorter and get the feel/sound and accuracy all in one package.

Let the experiment begin.

 

Driver: still looking.....
4 Wood: Kamui Pro TP-XF 17.5° + Fujikura Speeder Evolution VI FW70x @ 42 1/2".

7 Wood: Kamui Pro TP-XF 22.5° + Fujikura Speeder Evolution VI FW80x @ 41 3/4".
Irons: Kamui Pro KP-102 5i-PW + KBS TGI 110 + 1/2".
Wedges: Callaway Jaws Forged 50°/55°/60° + KBS C-Taper
Putter: SeeMore SB1 + Accra FX300.

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> @xkilgorextroutx said:

> I've cut down a few drivers but found that just choking down on my driver works fine. I add a few layers of tape under the grip so it doesn't feel "off" when I choke up.

 

Of course the generic answer was to do that.... oddly though 2 inches down the group "feels" different was was curious to commit to chopping a shaft down to 42" LOL

again I got the semi cut driver...was just curious about the egregious cut down to 42" per say .

 

Guess Im going to "blue painters" tape a driver tonight just to see what its like.... If Brook Henderson and Anthony Kim can win.... with it.. it must work...

 

 

TM - Stealth 1.0 - Rouge 70X
TM 15* M2v1 - RIP Phenom 60S
TM 18* M2v1 - Rogue 60S
Sub70- 649mbs-PW-6 ,639 CBs-5-4   PX 6.0 Rifles - Incoming Sub70 659CB!!!!!!!
Vokey SM7 - 50*/8*, 56*/10* & 60*/8* S200
Scotty Newport 2 - 33"

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> @gbartwrx said:

> > @Exactice808 said:

> > > @xkilgorextroutx said:

> > > I've cut down a few drivers but found that just choking down on my driver works fine. I add a few layers of tape under the grip so it doesn't feel "off" when I choke up.

> >

> > Of course the generic answer was to do that.... oddly though 2 inches down the group "feels" different was was curious to commit to chopping a shaft down to 42" LOL

> > again I got the semi cut driver...was just curious about the egregious cut down to 42" per say .

> >

> > Guess Im going to "blue painters" tape a driver tonight just to see what its like.... If Brook Henderson and Anthony Kim can win.... with it.. it must work...

> >

> >

>

> i think brook henderson plays a 48" driver though ;-)

 

Oh Snap! didnt know that...... Long Drive pro choked up to 45" damn.. that put a hole in my theory LOL!!!

TM - Stealth 1.0 - Rouge 70X
TM 15* M2v1 - RIP Phenom 60S
TM 18* M2v1 - Rogue 60S
Sub70- 649mbs-PW-6 ,639 CBs-5-4   PX 6.0 Rifles - Incoming Sub70 659CB!!!!!!!
Vokey SM7 - 50*/8*, 56*/10* & 60*/8* S200
Scotty Newport 2 - 33"

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> @Jagpilotohio said:

> I’ve played 43.5” for 30 years.

>

> It works great.

 

I was hoping you would pop into this one.haha if anyone knows how to make it work. It would be you!

Driver: Paradym 3D Ventus black TR 6x

3 wood: Paradym 3d Ventus black TR 7x

19 degree UW: Ventus black TR 8x

Mizuno Pro Fli Hi 4 utility Hazrdus black 90 6.5 X

5 -PW: Callaway Apex MB, KBS $ taper 130X

Wedges - Jaws raw 50, 54, 59 KBS $ taper 130x

Putter- Mutant Wilson Staff 8802 with stroke lab shaft
BALL; Chrome Soft X

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> @gbartwrx said:

> Not necessarily. The 460cc head looks ridiculous on a 42" club imo. I play the TM Original One or Ping Rapture because I have some mental block about heads larger than say a 510 TP. I play them at 43.75". I don't want to give up distance but a large head costs me personally at least 4-5 strokes per round.

>

>

>

>

>

>

 

"It looks funny" seems a poor reason to avoid using something that works. Everyone thought the TiSI looked funny, it was so big, it was the Black Toaster of Death. Everyone thought the first 400cc driver looked funny, way too big, we see how that turned out.

 

{shrug}

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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I've never tried 42", but have gone down to 43" with a 460cc clubhead, and have been regularly playing 43.25" or 43.5" since last year. I say give it a shot.

 

The best heads to experiment with for such things are those with the removable weights, like the older model TM drivers, up through the R1, provided you have the extra weights available. Otherwise, I'd go with lead tape, it's not just for breakfast anymore.

 

Some say you don't need to add back the weight, but I would ask those folks if they play their hybrids with a swingweight at C5? ;)

 

I'm a believer in heavier shafts as you go shorter, but that's up to personal preference (I like heavier shafts normally). If you have removable heads, using a 3w or even 5w shaft isn't a bad idea, the shafts are already tipped for the added head weight and possibly may not need much, if any, butt trimming. (typing this post prompted me to check ebay, bought a Tour Blue 85 3w shaft to toss in my Fly-Z+ or LTD. can you enable yourself? LOL)

 

Don't forget that Jimmy Walker played a 42" driver in a Tour event to help work out the tee game kinks.

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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> @gbartwrx said:

> > @NRJyzr said:

> > > @gbartwrx said:

> > > Not necessarily. The 460cc head looks ridiculous on a 42" club imo. I play the TM Original One or Ping Rapture because I have some mental block about heads larger than say a 510 TP. I play them at 43.75". I don't want to give up distance but a large head costs me personally at least 4-5 strokes per round.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> >

> > "It looks funny" seems a poor reason to avoid using something that works. Everyone thought the TiSI looked funny, it was so big, it was the Black Toaster of Death. Everyone thought the first 400cc driver looked funny, way too big, we see how that turned out.

> >

> > {shrug}

> my point is it doesnt work for ME. I (ME ME ME ME ME) can't look at a 460cc at 45" length. i didnt say not to try it. simply gave my experience. a blade zealot telling me to get over "it looks funny", oh THAT is rich!

 

 

Doesn't invalidate my point. I get it doesn't work for you. It's still not a good reason to use something that works.

 

It's not a value judgement. We *all* do things like that every day, and not just related to golf. LOL

 

PS your biases are showing. LOL

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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I had a 78gram cut to 43" to test in my old 917 Driver and hit some good shots. I chose 78gram to maintain reasonable swing weight, but overall, it didn't have dependable results. Aside from feeling more upright, some misses left lost too much yardage. Accordingly, I plugged my trusty Fujikura Fuel Tour Spec 60 "S" cut to playing length of 44.5" and bam!

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Thanks For the comments all..... Last night did have a chance to run to the range, as curiosity was peaking after I made this thread.

So I have my 2 test drivers..

 

45" 915D3

45.25" Fly Z

 

I measured 42" on the grip placed tape on them. And Went whacking away.... Sadly.... I found ZERO difference in dispersion (mean it was still not pretty haahaha) . (very minor distance difference as well)

 

My driver swing I guess sucks...... I am going to likely move this to the Instruction side as I think I have more relevant question as it seems an equipment fix may not be a good enough band-aid.

 

 

 

TM - Stealth 1.0 - Rouge 70X
TM 15* M2v1 - RIP Phenom 60S
TM 18* M2v1 - Rogue 60S
Sub70- 649mbs-PW-6 ,639 CBs-5-4   PX 6.0 Rifles - Incoming Sub70 659CB!!!!!!!
Vokey SM7 - 50*/8*, 56*/10* & 60*/8* S200
Scotty Newport 2 - 33"

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I’ve gone to a 42.75” 185cc TEE EX9 long 13* abs the same lengths with 175 cc xcg7 beta 11.5 heads

 

Wanting to try 43” or shorter with a 440 cc xcg7 beta and an upper 70/low 80 gram shaft

 

Will report back

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If I might segway real quick since this got moved to the TECH section.

Yesterday I did notice some things.

1) Gripping Shorter on the club did inherently flatten the head.... I am on the shorter side though (5'8") so this did NOT seem overly egregious to me.

2) would the 3 inches grip down really matter of lie angle if I floated the club or made sure when I setup the club head was still square. I Understand the static lie angle that upright closes the face, or flat opens the face. But if I have a flat face, but grip it square to target, does this negation lie angles by chance?

 

3) This might not be tech related but instruction related but insight would be awesome. Standing inherently closer to the ball due to gripping 3"s up on the grip. Oddly when I place the club head down to the ball. (the aiming mark on the club head) I would HIT more towards the heal. of the club face. To hit it MORE square I would actually have to setup up further back, Meaning the aiming mark was on the INSIDE of the golf ball rather in the center (hope that makes sense). this resulted in Hooks or straight flights, which is ok as this is a learning curve, but it was GOOD strikes center strikes. Visually it seemed weird but impacts were noticeably centered.

 

does the above have to do with short lengths and lie angles? Thanks!

TM - Stealth 1.0 - Rouge 70X
TM 15* M2v1 - RIP Phenom 60S
TM 18* M2v1 - Rogue 60S
Sub70- 649mbs-PW-6 ,639 CBs-5-4   PX 6.0 Rifles - Incoming Sub70 659CB!!!!!!!
Vokey SM7 - 50*/8*, 56*/10* & 60*/8* S200
Scotty Newport 2 - 33"

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> @Exactice808 said:

> 2) would the 3 inches grip down really matter of lie angle if I floated the club or made sure when I setup the club head was still square. I Understand the static lie angle that upright closes the face, or flat opens the face. But if I have a flat face, but grip it square to target, does this negation lie angles by chance?

 

No, how you grip or set-up doesn't effect the lie angle any significant amount. That only applies to face angle. Only the final swing plane and posture will effect the lie angle.

 

 

> 3) This might not be tech related but instruction related but insight would be awesome. Standing inherently closer to the ball due to gripping 3"s up on the grip. Oddly when I place the club head down to the ball. (the aiming mark on the club head) I would HIT more towards the heal. of the club face. To hit it MORE square I would actually have to setup up further back, Meaning the aiming mark was on the INSIDE of the golf ball rather in the center (hope that makes sense). this resulted in Hooks or straight flights, which is ok as this is a learning curve, but it was GOOD strikes center strikes. Visually it seemed weird but impacts were noticeably centered.

>

> does the above have to do with short lengths and lie angles? Thanks!

 

Everyone is different in how they manage visual changes at address during setup. My guess would be that you simply over compensated for the shorter length when judging distance to ball at set-up. But I can't say that the visual of the head's size or lie angle didn't have some effect as well.

 

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> @Exactice808 said:

> Thanks For the comments all..... Last night did have a chance to run to the range, as curiosity was peaking after I made this thread.

> So I have my 2 test drivers..

>

> 45" 915D3

> 45.25" Fly Z

>

> I measured 42" on the grip placed tape on them. And Went whacking away.... Sadly.... I found ZERO difference in dispersion (mean it was still not pretty haahaha) . (very minor distance difference as well)

>

> My driver swing I guess sucks...... I am going to likely move this to the Instruction side as I think I have more relevant question as it seems an equipment fix may not be a good enough band-aid.

>

>

>

Be aware of that ALL 3 of this parameters is related and has to be right to make it work.

Play length, Total wgt/Shaft wgt and how that weight is distributed (balance, how you feel shaft vs head)

 

You started from about 45" and with a specific shaft weight.

ONLY if you started from a shaft TOO HEAVY, you will find a good play length between 45 and 42....when those 2 factors match YOUR needs, but we might miss that point if we dont try off both added shaft weight AND head weight, both by using lead tape during the test.

 

Lets try this from another direction, there must be a club in your bag that works very good, now find play length and uncut shaft weight on that club.

 

Example

If its a wood or Hybrid its simple, and lets say this was a 3H or 4H playing at 39.00" with a 85 grams uncut shaft

Then the corresponding driver shaft weight will be> .

Play length and weight>

45.00" = 55.00 grams plus max 5 gram = 60.00 max

44.50" = 57.50 grams plus max 5 grams = 63.50 max - at this point added head weight should be tried...

44.00" = 60.00 grams plus max 5 grams = 65.00 grams max

43.50" = 62.50 grams plus max 5 grams = 67.50 grams max

43.00" = 65.00 grams plus max 5 grams = 70.00 grams max

42.50" = 67.50 grams plus max 5 grams = 72.50 grams max

42.00" = 70.00 grams plus max 5 grams = 75.00 grams max

 

5 grams uncut shaft weight pr inch, when balance point of the shaft is about the same, and corresponding head weight is used.

 

Head weight "norms"

Drivers 195-205 grams - 46.00" to 44.50"

3W - 208-212 grams - 43.50" - 42.00"

4W - 215 grams - 42.75" - 42.00"

5W - 220 grams - 42.50 - 41.50"

7W - 230 grams 40.50 - 41.00"

 

So its NOT very likely a head weight below 212 grams will be good down at 42.00",(212 to 220 grams somewhere should work but shaft weight has to be right also, its not enough that play length is short enough to handle.

 

 

 

 

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Howard, from a club that works well for a player, do you use the shaft weight progression chart in your DIY driver tune-up?

 

 

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TEE  XCG7B  4h  22* Ventus Velocore HB Blue 8S
TEE  XCG7B  5h  25* Diamana Thump i465ct 4iron shaft
Wishon 560MC 5-PW (26,30,34,38,42.5,47) Recoil Proto 125 F4
Vokey SM7 50-08F S200 bent to 51*
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> @Exactice808 said:

> If I might segway real quick since this got moved to the TECH section.

> Yesterday I did notice some things.

> 1) Gripping Shorter on the club did inherently flatten the head.... I am on the shorter side though (5'8") so this did NOT seem overly egregious to me.

> 2) would the 3 inches grip down really matter of lie angle if I floated the club or made sure when I setup the club head was still square. I Understand the static lie angle that upright closes the face, or flat opens the face. But if I have a flat face, but grip it square to target, does this negation lie angles by chance?

>

> 3) This might not be tech related but instruction related but insight would be awesome. Standing inherently closer to the ball due to gripping 3"s up on the grip. Oddly when I place the club head down to the ball. (the aiming mark on the club head) I would HIT more towards the heal. of the club face. To hit it MORE square I would actually have to setup up further back, Meaning the aiming mark was on the INSIDE of the golf ball rather in the center (hope that makes sense). this resulted in Hooks or straight flights, which is ok as this is a learning curve, but it was GOOD strikes center strikes. Visually it seemed weird but **impacts were noticeably centered**.

>

> does the above have to do with short lengths and lie angles? Thanks!

 

While I sympathize with the feeling of choking up (or is that down LOL) on the shaft feeling a bit "weird" as opposed to gripping it at the end, it does "work"; that is shows you pretty well how the club would act if it as cut down to that length.

 

"impacts were noticeably centered". THIS is the major, perhaps only(?), benefit of the shorter shaft.

 

Most hit the center of the clubface a higher percentage of the time with a shorter shaft - think putter/wedges/irons/hybrids,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

You will lose a bit of distance with the much shorter shaft but would you rather have 1 out of 10 270 and the other 9 OB or 7 out of 10 250 and the other 3 in the rough ? Those "stats" are pure speculation but you get the point. Until your swing improves the shorter shaft should help.

 

And I'm sorry but "segway" tears it LOL. To edify you LOL, a Segway/segway is what Paul Blart rode around on. A "segue" is something that "connects" - and I don't care if some DO use your spelling LOL

 

Also, it's "per se" (French I think), not "per say".

 

Have a nice "de". LOL

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> @Stuart_G said:

> > @Exactice808 said:

> > 2) would the 3 inches grip down really matter of lie angle if I floated the club or made sure when I setup the club head was still square. I Understand the static lie angle that upright closes the face, or flat opens the face. But if I have a flat face, but grip it square to target, does this negation lie angles by chance?

>

> No, how you grip or set-up doesn't effect the lie angle any significant amount. That only applies to face angle. Only the final swing plane and posture will effect the lie angle.

>

>

> > 3) This might not be tech related but instruction related but insight would be awesome. Standing inherently closer to the ball due to gripping 3"s up on the grip. Oddly when I place the club head down to the ball. (the aiming mark on the club head) I would HIT more towards the heal. of the club face. To hit it MORE square I would actually have to setup up further back, Meaning the aiming mark was on the INSIDE of the golf ball rather in the center (hope that makes sense). this resulted in Hooks or straight flights, which is ok as this is a learning curve, but it was GOOD strikes center strikes. Visually it seemed weird but impacts were noticeably centered.

> >

> > does the above have to do with short lengths and lie angles? Thanks!

>

> Everyone is different in how they manage visual changes at address during setup. My guess would be that you simply over compensated for the shorter length when judging distance to ball at set-up. But I can't say that the visual of the head's size or lie angle didn't have some effect as well.

>

Whoops what I meant was the inherent shaft choking down affects lie angles. Static Lie angles as assumed upright face close. Flatter, face open.

 

If I held the face square to target the lie angles are negligible?

 

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> @nsxguy said:

> > @Exactice808 said:

> > If I might segway real quick since this got moved to the TECH section.

> > Yesterday I did notice some things.

> > 1) Gripping Shorter on the club did inherently flatten the head.... I am on the shorter side though (5'8") so this did NOT seem overly egregious to me.

> > 2) would the 3 inches grip down really matter of lie angle if I floated the club or made sure when I setup the club head was still square. I Understand the static lie angle that upright closes the face, or flat opens the face. But if I have a flat face, but grip it square to target, does this negation lie angles by chance?

> >

> > 3) This might not be tech related but instruction related but insight would be awesome. Standing inherently closer to the ball due to gripping 3"s up on the grip. Oddly when I place the club head down to the ball. (the aiming mark on the club head) I would HIT more towards the heal. of the club face. To hit it MORE square I would actually have to setup up further back, Meaning the aiming mark was on the INSIDE of the golf ball rather in the center (hope that makes sense). this resulted in Hooks or straight flights, which is ok as this is a learning curve, but it was GOOD strikes center strikes. Visually it seemed weird but **impacts were noticeably centered**.

> >

> > does the above have to do with short lengths and lie angles? Thanks!

>

> While I sympathize with the feeling of choking up (or is that down LOL) on the shaft feeling a bit "weird" as opposed to gripping it at the end, it does "work"; that is shows you pretty well how the club would act if it as cut down to that length.

>

> "impacts were noticeably centered". THIS is the major, perhaps only(?), benefit of the shorter shaft.

>

> Most hit the center of the clubface a higher percentage of the time with a shorter shaft - think putter/wedges/irons/hybrids,,,,,,,,,,,,

>

> You will lose a bit of distance with the much shorter shaft but would you rather have 1 out of 10 270 and the other 9 OB or 7 out of 10 250 and the other 3 in the rough ? Those "stats" are pure speculation but you get the point. Until your swing improves the shorter shaft should help.

>

> And I'm sorry but "segway" tears it LOL. To edify you LOL, a Segway/segway is what Paul Blart rode around on. A "segue" is something that "connects" - and I don't care if some DO use your spelling LOL

>

> Also, it's "per se" (French I think), not "per say".

>

> Have a nice "de". LOL

 

Never boasted I was a a grammar champ hahahaha. Thanks for the rubs I can surely laugh at my inadequate grammar and spelling.

 

Anyways. I hope you read the context of why it was center? I had to visually change the setup from the gripped down of the club. If I didn’t it was all heel strikes. Only when I set up inside the 1/3 of the ball did the strikes be center, rather then square to square.

 

I have Major dispersion issues rather than contact issues. So I’m trying to find a temp fix till I can figure out why? I hit my irons well. But when I have bad days with the longer clubs. It’s pretty wild.

 

I have resorted to using 4 irons and 5 woods. Off the tee out of fear of losing a tee shot of the planet. It’s. Frustrating. To have that feeling.

 

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> @Exactice808 said:

> > @nsxguy said:

> > > @Exactice808 said:

> > > If I might segway real quick since this got moved to the TECH section.

> > > Yesterday I did notice some things.

> > > 1) Gripping Shorter on the club did inherently flatten the head.... I am on the shorter side though (5'8") so this did NOT seem overly egregious to me.

> > > 2) would the 3 inches grip down really matter of lie angle if I floated the club or made sure when I setup the club head was still square. I Understand the static lie angle that upright closes the face, or flat opens the face. But if I have a flat face, but grip it square to target, does this negation lie angles by chance?

> > >

> > > 3) This might not be tech related but instruction related but insight would be awesome. Standing inherently closer to the ball due to gripping 3"s up on the grip. Oddly when I place the club head down to the ball. (the aiming mark on the club head) I would HIT more towards the heal. of the club face. To hit it MORE square I would actually have to setup up further back, Meaning the aiming mark was on the INSIDE of the golf ball rather in the center (hope that makes sense). this resulted in Hooks or straight flights, which is ok as this is a learning curve, but it was GOOD strikes center strikes. Visually it seemed weird but **impacts were noticeably centered**.

> > >

> > > does the above have to do with short lengths and lie angles? Thanks!

> >

> > While I sympathize with the feeling of choking up (or is that down LOL) on the shaft feeling a bit "weird" as opposed to gripping it at the end, it does "work"; that is shows you pretty well how the club would act if it as cut down to that length.

> >

> > "impacts were noticeably centered". THIS is the major, perhaps only(?), benefit of the shorter shaft.

> >

> > Most hit the center of the clubface a higher percentage of the time with a shorter shaft - think putter/wedges/irons/hybrids,,,,,,,,,,,,

> >

> > You will lose a bit of distance with the much shorter shaft but would you rather have 1 out of 10 270 and the other 9 OB or 7 out of 10 250 and the other 3 in the rough ? Those "stats" are pure speculation but you get the point. Until your swing improves the shorter shaft should help.

> >

> > And I'm sorry but "segway" tears it LOL. To edify you LOL, a Segway/segway is what Paul Blart rode around on. A "segue" is something that "connects" - and I don't care if some DO use your spelling LOL

> >

> > Also, it's "per se" (French I think), not "per say".

> >

> > Have a nice "de". LOL

>

> Never boasted I was a a grammar champ hahahaha. Thanks for the rubs I can surely laugh at my inadequate grammar and spelling.

>

> Anyways. I hope you read the context of why it was center? I had to visually change the setup from the gripped down of the club. If I didn’t it was all heel strikes. Only when I set up inside the 1/3 of the ball did the strikes be center, rather then square to square.

>

> I have Major dispersion issues rather than contact issues. So I’m trying to find a temp fix till I can figure out why? I hit my irons well. But when I have bad days with the longer clubs. It’s pretty wild.

>

> I have resorted to using 4 irons and 5 woods. Off the tee out of fear of losing a tee shot of the planet. It’s. Frustrating. To have that feeling.

>

 

There may certainly be a number of reasons for more center strikes but one of them is almost surely the shorter distance between your hands and the club face.

 

Not to fix your face and path,,,,,,,, that's another story.

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> @geochitown said:

> Howard, from a club that works well for a player, do you use the shaft weight progression chart in your DIY driver tune-up?

>

>

 

Yes its those numbers im using, it works very good as a static fitting chart to find a good start point for testing.

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If your face contact is reasonable, but dispersion blows, it sounds like a tempo problem. Try this drill. It has helped me tons. Put both feet together and hit balls. Keeping your feet tight together as you hit the driver. It will feel very restricted at first, but soon you will feel tempo improve, then hit with your normal stance. Hope this helps, it has served me quite well when my tempo gets out of whack!

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