Spinner shafts for wedges by Howard Jones - The #8 iron spinner trick

[Howard_Jones]

On 3/20/2023 at 3:19 AM, sdaniel said:

Would this idea work for the Steelfiber FC115 shafts since they are flighted?

If BOTH models (iron and the stronger wedges) is Flighted then YES
Its all RELATIVE to what iron shafts we play,so it have to be the same MODEL and wgt type. (Constant wgt for both, or Descending wgt for both)

Edited March 21, 2023 by Howard_Jones

[Mark38]

Howard,

 

A big thank you for the time and effort you share helping others with their game.  Tried the 8i x100 ss2 in my wedges and I absolutely love them.  Best wedge feel ever. 7i ss2 in the PW as well.

 

[Howard_Jones]

1 hour ago, Mark38 said:

Howard,

 

A big thank you for the time and effort you share helping others with their game.  Tried the 8i x100 ss2 in my wedges and I absolutely love them.  Best wedge feel ever. 7i ss2 in the PW as well.

 

Very nice to hear you liked the feel of it, so lets hope it can push your wedge game the extra mile..

Im doing some updates and upgrades due to questions that has come up, so the main post is modified with a little more info and charts to explain what this really is.

I guess the reason for why it is so hard for some to "see it", its because they dont know how golf shafts in a set works, so ive tried to make it "Visual" to them, so anyone should be able to get the moment of "aha..."

FOR WEDGES ONLY...
..when launch goes UP, spin goes down
..when we can force launch down, spin goes up.

We simply delay the point for where we start softstepping shafts
For each step/shaft stronger into wedges, ball flight goes down 5 feets.
The S400 #9 to X100 #8 is the 3 (Black), where we can cut APEX between a "Soft stepped #9, to our #8 iron spinners with 10 feets average, (#8 X100 for GW, SW and LW) 

The FEEL aspect is VERY important in wedges, so if you are happy with the irons you play, THIS way to wedge shafts is my best suggestion, since it will feel familiar and like your iron shafts works at its "correct" flex strength for the actual head





 

Edited March 23, 2023 by Howard_Jones

[Mark38]

Your original explanation provided me with a good understanding of the approach.

 

The visual is a very nice addition.  I wasn't exactly clear how much in feet the apex was lowered.  

 

I have been playing for three decades. I wish I had found it earlier.  A real difference maker 

Edited March 23, 2023 by Mark38

[Howard_Jones]

20 minutes ago, Mark38 said:

Your original explanation provided me with a good understanding of the approach.

 

The visual is a very nice addition.  I wasn't exactly clear how much in feet the apex was lowered.  

 

I have been playing for three decades. I wish I had found it earlier.  A real difference maker 

Difference to APEX is theoretical to be able to make a relative compare of options
The robot IRON BYRON will see this numbers, 1 CPM of flex is 1 FEET on apex, so its simple math
If the shaft measure 5 CPM more, APEX drops with 5 feets, and its average 5 CPM up and down when we soft or hard step shaft, so SS1 = 5 fees higher, HS1 = 5 feets lower than standard.

For wedges we only have "standard" and up to 4 times soft stepping "as standard", so compared, a full flex LOB wedge, vs SS4 (#9 shaft) = 20 feets on apex.

When we use the #8 iron spinner (#8 for all 3 wedges), we are still soft stepped in our LOB 2 x, so APEx is 10 feets higher than "full flex strait in", but also 10 feets lower than SS4

 

[Howard_Jones]

The deeper details behind it all...

Shaft PROFILE dont "act the same", when we go into wedges, it include hosel specs like BBGM or bottom of bore to ground. Wedges has a HIGHER BBGM than irons, most often 3/8" or more.
At the same play length,  LESS of the BUTT section remains, and thats the strongest part of the shaft, so when we raise BBGM and shorten butt, we go softer. How much depends on the shafts EI profile on the butt side

A shaft profile like RIFLE FCM goes stronger all the way, so longer is WAY STRONGER, and the other way, when we shorten the butt section, WAY SOFTER.

1 inch butt section is 7 CPM, so if we building a set RIFLE FCM to PLUS 0.5" inch above standard length, using B weight ( B wgt is heads thats 7 grams ligher heads to keep SW value as standard)
our RIFLE FCM 6.0, will plays to FCM 6.35

 The we have "butt soft" models like Dynamic Gold, Project X and KBS.
The are not moving that much, it vary between 3-4 CPM pr inch, still STRONGER, 1.5 - 2.0 for each +0.5, so if we used B weight heads, we go slightly stronger where PX 6.0 become PX 6.15, and if we used the standard heads, the would play like PX 5.85

Then we have SW values, and to make a relative compare, uve used whats the typical norm, and thats Irons as D2, GW-D3, SW D5, and LW D5)
, 
Combines with soft stepping from using the same #9 or PW shaft as Wedge shaft, the SUM of it all, compared to the MODELs natural flex slope (who vary from model to model), they "PLAY" like this is we use the "standard! suggestion, #9 or PW iron shaft all the way.



When we go to the #8 iron SPINNER - same #8 a full flex stronger for all wedges, it becomes like this.



They DONT get "equal", but THE RELATIVE CHANGE is the same for all.
(1 or 2 shafts stronger vs using the #9 or PW) 

Edited March 24, 2023 by Howard_Jones

[Howard_Jones]

SUB CHAPTER - SHAFT WEIGHT IN WEDGES

WE GO DESCENDING WEIGHT INTO WEDGES
– 5 GRAMS HIGHER START WEIGHT IS BENEFICIAL
Continuation from the MAIN post on page #1

That’s why a tad higher shaft weight as starting point for wedge is nice. At least make sure you weight sort the shafts to be used before you choose what shaft to be used for what, so you can use shaft weight tolerances to even this out as best as it can be done.

Keep that in mind when we either soft step a full flex stronger #8 iron shaft, OR have the option of HALF FLEXES who gives us 5 grams higher start wgt.

For a DG S300 player, who goes X100 #8 for wedges, he will loose another 1.8 gram since a #8 is SS1 vs the standard #9, so its 0.5 more butt cut and loos of that shaft wgt down to play length. Sum weight drop is compared to the #9 iron shaft and longer. This is also the reason for why we should use DG GOLD, not the Tour issue version, since TI tends to be to the lower side of shaft wgt, GOLD sorting to the higher side of tolerances.




SHAFTS BELOW IS SORTED BY COMPARABLE WEIGHT
- Comparable wgt means with the same uncut length as Dynamic Gold.
All shafts can now be compared within each brand or across brands, since its now the same "standard for uncut length", who makes them all directly comparable as "uncut weight",  

KBS
- ALL CONSTANT WEIGHT MODELS
- WEIGHT LOSS INTO WEDGES
- COMPARABLE WGT vs UNCUT
- NET CUT WGT IRONS



KBS
- ALL DESCENDING WEIGHT MODELS
 - WEIGHT LOSS INTO WEDGES
- COMPARABLE WGT vs UNCUT CONSTANT WGT



NIPPON CONSTANT WGT
- WEIGHT LOSS INTO WEDGES
- COMPARABLE WGT vs UNCUT
- NET CUT WGT IRONS




RIFLE PROJECT X - ALL MODELS IN PRODUCTION NOW
- WEIGHT LOSS INTO WEDGES
- COMPARABLE WGT vs UNCUT
- NET CUT WGT IRONS



TRUE TEMPER - ALL MODELS IN PRODUCTION NOW (EX.AMT)
- WEIGHT LOSS INTO WEDGES
- COMPARABLE WGT vs UNCUT
- NET CUT WGT IRONS

Edited April 13, 2023 by Howard_Jones

[roja]

I play True Temper XP105 S300 shafts in all my irons. Since True Temper no longer makes this shaft, could I use Dynamic Gold 105 X100 8 iron shafts in my gap thru lob wedge to lower the flight and increase the spin? I know the profile is completely different  and the feel will be different, but the weight will be pretty close.

[Howard_Jones]

11 hours ago, roja said:

I play True Temper XP105 S300 shafts in all my irons. Since True Temper no longer makes this shaft, could I use Dynamic Gold 105 X100 8 iron shafts in my gap thru lob wedge to lower the flight and increase the spin? I know the profile is completely different  and the feel will be different, but the weight will be pretty close.

You already know, that DG 105 is MID launch, so they will not feel the same, but yes it will take ball flight down, but that kind of combos is not what we deal with here, and i cant say for sure what shaft # to use or anything, so your question is actually off topic here.

The #8 iron spinner trick is not only a short cut to take ball flight down, and bring spin back up, but make it with a shaft that feels like it should, or as a natural extension to a set of irons that feels like you want them to.

A MID launch shaft SHOULD (on the paper) bring ball flight down vs the same iron shaft #, so - YES, mixing XP 105 S irons with DG 105 X for wedge will take ball flight down, and add spin.

The question is, will they feel like a natural extension to the irons?
That's why your question becomes off topic, since we cant predict that, but that's what we do our best to do with "the #8 iron spinner trick"

So far its been 1 player that clearly DID NOT LIKE THE FEEL when he tried this, its a $ Taper player, so i will look deeper into that to see if there is something i over looked by the EI profiles.

He said it felt like swinging a Toyota Prius by the bumper, so it cant be much worse than that...but so far he is the exception to the rule, so its either the exception who confirms the rule, or we might question if his irons is a god fit for him?

Except from that, most players really like the "new feel" vs former wedges AND how ball flight and spin becomes when they do it like suggested here.

Its more than "just a few" over the years who did not only improve their short game to a level they never expected, they DROPPED in HDCP since its all about the short game when it comes to the scoring card.

That's why i took the job to make such a detailed write up, its a simple short cut anyone can use if their short game has too high ball flight, and too little spin to stop the ball.

For some it will be a mental challenge to hit the ball with a landing spot closer to the flag than they normally would have, but that's good for 2 reasons.

To get closer to the pin, you need a little extra power transferred to the ball, and that extra power boost spin on top of what the shaft gives to start with, so go AGGRESSIVE against the pin, that's what this is all about, improve precision in the short game, with the help of the feel from the iron shafts you like to play.

Edited March 29, 2023 by Howard_Jones

[-MG-]

Deleted

Edited April 1, 2023 by -MG-

[Howard_Jones]

5 hours ago, -MG- said:

Here’s an interesting one:

 

I play Oban 115X and as many will know they are $75 a pop. I’m told closest profile would be Nippon NS Pro 950 H Neo which comes in at 104g in the X.

 

I tend to hit all of my wedges closer to full swing with the 60 naturally being less. I’d like to find a way to continue the similar feel I have with my set while accomplishing the spinner trick. 
 

I am not as sensitive as others and can game a Modus 120x which there is a TX flex in. 
 

is the weight drop too much for that Neo shaft to work? I love tinkering so willing to play with a Neo PW and tip trimming to go down the path.

Your post is OFF TOPIC in a pinned subject, dont do that
This tread shall NOT be misused for questions about wedge shafts or shafts in general, its STRICTLY about the topic, so please respect that.

[njmack]

On 3/21/2022 at 10:10 PM, third-times-a-charm said:

Gonna bump this 'cause more people should try it out.

 

I play Modus 105s in irons but have always liked the stock S200 shaft found in most wedges. On a whim I saw this and decided to try it out - but with a slight change of using the Modus 120 instead of the 105 in my irons. Reason because the Modus 120 is actually a very similar profile to the S200 and also similar weight.

 

Results have been insanely positive. Accuracy is much better, feel and tempo is better and every shot is much more under control.

 

Highly recommend this trick!

 

I'm curious to hear more about how this has gone for you--I also play 105s in my irons & really enjoy them. Currently have the stock DG shafts in my wedges, I believe they are also S200. 

 

Based on Howard's guide, I'm assuming you went up to 120x? I'm considering either going that route, or just stepping up to X100 as I don't mind the feel of the DGs.

 

I'm hesitant to go 105x due to the 15g weight change from my current setup, but I've also never played the 120 line before & I know they aren't exactly the same beast. 

[third-times-a-charm]

1 hour ago, njmack said:

 

I'm curious to hear more about how this has gone for you--I also play 105s in my irons & really enjoy them. Currently have the stock DG shafts in my wedges, I believe they are also S200. 

 

Based on Howard's guide, I'm assuming you went up to 120x? I'm considering either going that route, or just stepping up to X100 as I don't mind the feel of the DGs.

 

I'm hesitant to go 105x due to the 15g weight change from my current setup, but I've also never played the 120 line before & I know they aren't exactly the same beast. 

Yes I went with 120X and they have been awesome. Love the weight and feel of them. They've gone through two sets of wedge heads so far since putting them into play.

[R_Swanson]

Has anyone found a good substitute for an elevate shaft for the 8i spinner trick, if one didn't want to use an elevate shaft? 

 

I'm going to build my buddy some wedges and he's in elevate 95's in stiff.   He wants vokey wedges.  Theres no X in this shaft and I do not want to ream out the hosel on the vokeys.  I know I could cut it 1/4 to 3/8 and get close 1/2 to 3/4 of a hard step (and he probably wouldnt know the difference), but I figured I'd see if anyone else had used a different shaft that could plug and play (aka a 355 taper in an X) that would be a good substitute.

 

Thanks!

[Howard_Jones]

17 minutes ago, R_Swanson said:

Has anyone found a good substitute for an elevate shaft for the 8i spinner trick, if one didn't want to use an elevate shaft? 

 

I'm going to build my buddy some wedges and he's in elevate 95's in stiff.   He wants vokey wedges.  Theres no X in this shaft and I do not want to ream out the hosel on the vokeys.  I know I could cut it 1/4 to 3/8 and get close 1/2 to 3/4 of a hard step (and he probably wouldnt know the difference), but I figured I'd see if anyone else had used a different shaft that could plug and play (aka a 355 taper in an X) that would be a good substitute.

 

Thanks!

Whats the problem with reaming?

[R_Swanson]

8 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

Whats the problem with reaming?

Nothing, per se, but...

 

- I dont have a drill press (I don't have the room for one) and seems to me like putting the head in a clamp and using a drill press would be much better than hand reaming.

- My buddy doesn't really understand all this stuff and it just seems like reaming his heads would scare him, even if its better for his game.

 

[Howard_Jones]

16 hours ago, R_Swanson said:

Nothing, per se, but...

 

- I dont have a drill press (I don't have the room for one) and seems to me like putting the head in a clamp and using a drill press would be much better than hand reaming.

- My buddy doesn't really understand all this stuff and it just seems like reaming his heads would scare him, even if its better for his game.

 

Its lack of knowledge then, you DONT need a drill press at all, most uses a HAND reamer and it takes a minute to do the job.

For both of you, look at this video, its nothing to be scared of, we are removing something close to "dust", and its impossible to mess it up, and we dont need a drill press at all, it makes no difference what so ever.
 

0.355 is the same as 9.017 mm
0.370 is the same as 9.398 mm

The difference is 0.38 millimeter, but only down at the bottom of the hosel....so we are close to "polish", and you can see that when you look at the fragments thats removed, its as close to "nothing" as we can get, and thats why we dont need a drill press or a electric drill at all, and its no way we can mess it up, its not possible.

Here is how the hosel looks like. The upper 4/8" is already 0.370 and will work as a "guide" for the reamer. Its only the lowest 6/8" that has a taper shape like this.

This is the "design", but in most cases, we can tip trim 3/8" without insert issues, and thats why its so little steel to remove when we ream it, since it already is wide enough to handle 0.362 like it will be if we tip trim 3/8"



Its the simplest and easiest modification we can do with golf clubs, so even changing grips is way more complicated, since we can mess that up, for reaming we cant, so dont worry at all.

As side note, my all time favorite heads was my Callaway X-Tour 2005, and when we look at shaft specs for those, most will scratch their heads, they was NOT 0.355 but 0.363...i guess you can see how they was made?
- It was a standard 0.355 taper, tip trimmed 3/8"  (Tiger stepped) from the factory to make them play close to Hard stepped once, since they still fit any taper hosel, so its really the difference between 0.362 and 0.370 we are reaming out, and thats why its "steel dust only", and nothing to worry about.

Edited April 9, 2023 by Howard_Jones

[R_Swanson]

Thank you @Howard_Jones it was ignorance on my end, you were correct.  That is simple - simper than using a die.  In fact the reamer will fit into my tap/die holder.

[sliight]

Hi all, thank you for the plethora of info. I think I understand, but am not sure if I'm waiting correctly to my plan.

 

I have 1.5 inch over TM P7mc irons 3-pw (dynamic gold 120g x100). I tested wedges and want to use TM wedges also. Maybe hi-toe 52 (1 strong) so I can really hit a lower pitch with spin, or MG3. Definitely MG3 in the 56, then later maybe the 60.

 

My full swing wedges have always been in the stratosphere, so I always want to bring them down (typically I just hit one longer and back off for flighting).

 

If I'm understanding, will this work:

 

TaylorMade MG3 1.5 inch over with a dynamic gold T X100 (130g with 1.5 torque) double soft stepped to get me to that lower flight while retaining spin? (I think their DG "T" shaft is their personal version of the x7 since they don't offer it).

 

Or, do I just go with the T 130g shaft which is just even stiffer to lower ball flight even more?

 

Typically soft stepping is for raising ball flight, but if I read the stuff right going up to the stiffer shaft then soft stepping you still end up slightly stiffer.

 

(I'll be calling TM today to get clarification on the T, and to see if the nickel head can be used)

 

Thank you!

[Howard_Jones]

3 hours ago, sliight said:

Hi all, thank you for the plethora of info. I think I understand, but am not sure if I'm waiting correctly to my plan.

 

I have 1.5 inch over TM P7mc irons 3-pw (dynamic gold 120g x100). I tested wedges and want to use TM wedges also. Maybe hi-toe 52 (1 strong) so I can really hit a lower pitch with spin, or MG3. Definitely MG3 in the 56, then later maybe the 60.

 

My full swing wedges have always been in the stratosphere, so I always want to bring them down (typically I just hit one longer and back off for flighting).

 

If I'm understanding, will this work:

 

TaylorMade MG3 1.5 inch over with a dynamic gold T X100 (130g with 1.5 torque) double soft stepped to get me to that lower flight while retaining spin? (I think their DG "T" shaft is their personal version of the x7 since they don't offer it).

 

Or, do I just go with the T 130g shaft which is just even stiffer to lower ball flight even more?

 

Typically soft stepping is for raising ball flight, but if I read the stuff right going up to the stiffer shaft then soft stepping you still end up slightly stiffer.

 

(I'll be calling TM today to get clarification on the T, and to see if the nickel head can be used)

 

Thank you!

I have no clue about what shaft you talk about, i never heard of "T" X100....TI for Tour issue yes, but never T alone, (unless someone means T for taper tip, or maybe its a reference to TIGER Woods, and 3/8" tip trim?) 

If you play X in irons it would be TX for wedge, in this case DG X7, OR the alternative way, a ream job (like described above), and tip trim on 120X shafts, with 5/8" for each club shorter you wants to play to the same flex as your irons.

 

Edited April 10, 2023 by Howard_Jones

[Howard_Jones]

10 hours ago, R_Swanson said:

Thank you @Howard_Jones it was ignorance on my end, you were correct.  That is simple - simper than using a die.  In fact the reamer will fit into my tap/die holder.

I know it might sound scary, and many holds back for that reason, and is even thinking, "are we weakening the hosel"?,  but when they see what it actually is, most will smile and say how could we be affraid of that? Since the first 1/2" inch is 0.370 already we have a perfect "guide" for the reamer and cant mess it up, so not even ordinary handy-man skills is needed, anyone should be able to do it, since its the simplest task with golf clubs of them all.

Please follow up, and tell how it worked for your friend when its done.

[sliight]

7 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

I have no clue about what shaft you talk about, i never heard of "T" X100....TI for Tour issue yes, but never T alone, (unless someone means T for taper tip, or maybe its a reference to TIGER Woods, and 3/8" tip trim?) 

If you play X in irons it would be TX for wedge, in this case DG X7, OR the alternative way, a ream job (like described above), and tip trim on 120X shafts, with 5/8" for each club shorter you wants to play to the same flex as your irons.

 

 

Great thank you. I'm calling them in a few to find out what the T is. Specs look like an x7 (guessing it's just how they named it as there's an option for tour issue also).

 

Regardless, assuming it is, should I just get the stiffer shafts and that's it? Or single or double soft step?  The way I read your chart beck at the start was up a level of stiffness (x7) then 1 soft on gap and two soft on sand?

 

Appreciate you taking the time to respond, thank you!

[Howard_Jones]

1 hour ago, sliight said:

 

Great thank you. I'm calling them in a few to find out what the T is. Specs look like an x7 (guessing it's just how they named it as there's an option for tour issue also).

 

Regardless, assuming it is, should I just get the stiffer shafts and that's it? Or single or double soft step?  The way I read your chart beck at the start was up a level of stiffness (x7) then 1 soft on gap and two soft on sand?

 

Appreciate you taking the time to respond, thank you!

Full flex models R, S, X is UP a full flex, then choose the #8 iron shaft as GW shaft to get a shaft with the same flex as your irons for full swing. Now its up to you if you want to start soft stepping, and use the same #8 for both SW and LW too, or if you want the SW or LW stronger.

The norm here is to use the full flex stronger #8 iron shaft for GW, SW and LW as the "Golden middel way", so we both get flight lower and added spin, but still keep a good feel that gives confidence on partial shots.

[sliight]

Thank you Howard!

 

When I call in I'll ask if we can opt for a specific iron shaft in the stiffness. You'd think on their fancy "my"MG3 for the extra fifty bucks they'd let you really dial in what you want, but oddly it's really limited when ordering online 

 

Thank you!

[ian1974]

20 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

Full flex models R, S, X is UP a full flex, then choose the #8 iron shaft as GW shaft to get a shaft with the same flex as your irons for full swing. Now its up to you if you want to start soft stepping, and use the same #8 for both SW and LW too, or if you want the SW or LW stronger.

The norm here is to use the full flex stronger #8 iron shaft for GW, SW and LW as the "Golden middel way", so we both get flight lower and added spin, but still keep a good feel that gives confidence on partial shots.

This “golden middle way” seems like it’s perfect. And if I understand the first page correctly then using the 3/8 tuning option would provide even more spin when using a full flex stronger #8 iron for the G,SW,LW.

[saebaebae]

Lots of great information, just having a hard time understanding the “half” sizes.

 

I have Project X 6.5 LZ, which has a dedicated PW. Based off what I read it would be

PW - standard pw shaft

GW - 6.5 LZ #8 iron shaft

SW - 6.5 LZ #8 iron shaft tiger stepped

LOB - 6.5 LZ #8 iron shaft tiger stepped

 

I do not take full shots with SW/LOB. 

[Howard_Jones]

52 minutes ago, saebaebae said:

Lots of great information, just having a hard time understanding the “half” sizes.

 

I have Project X 6.5 LZ, which has a dedicated PW. Based off what I read it would be

PW - standard pw shaft

GW - 6.5 LZ #8 iron shaft

SW - 6.5 LZ #8 iron shaft tiger stepped

LOB - 6.5 LZ #8 iron shaft tiger stepped

 

I do not take full shots with SW/LOB. 

Thats goings 2 shafts SOFTER
You are already at 6.5, and we have to STAY on the 6.5 flex slope up and included the last club played to full swing. Your GW is the last full swing club, so to get a shaft that fits the flex of a "6.5 GW", we use 7.0 PW

Half flex models (PX, KBS)
UP half a flex and the PW

The norm is to use that shaft for all wedges, so your SW will be SS1 and the LOB SS2, plus the contribution from higher SW values who soften them even more. (no reason to tip trim them before strait in is tried.)


 

[saebaebae]

5 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

Thats goings 2 shafts SOFTER
You are already at 6.5, and we have to STAY on the 6.5 flex slope up and included the last club played to full swing. Your GW is the last full swing club, so to get a shaft that fits the flex of a "6.5 GW", we use 7.0 PW

Half flex models (PX, KBS)
UP half a flex and the PW

The norm is to use that shaft for all wedges, so your SW will be SS1 and the LOB SS2, plus the contribution from higher SW values who soften them even more. (no reason to tip trim them before strait in is tried.)


 

Ah, in the situation where I cannot find the 7.0 LZ PW. Then I would tip trim the 6.5 LZ PW shaft then but trim to length accordingly.

[Howard_Jones]

1 minute ago, saebaebae said:

Ah, in the situation where I cannot find the 7.0 LZ PW. Then I would tip trim the 6.5 LZ PW shaft then but trim to length accordingly.

IF we cant find the shaft, but has access to PW shafts of the same flex as irons, we can tip trim, but to get a full shaft stronger, we need 5/8" tip trim, so you will have to use a reamer to modify hosel specs from 0.355 to 0.370 (se post above.)

6.5 PW shaft tip trimmed 5/8" will play like a 7.0 PW shaft strait in, and both fits the flex slot of a 6.5 GW.

[birdiestobogeys]

Does anybody know if the DG “spinner” shaft that comes stock in the Cleveland rtx 6 is a 2x soft stepped s400 or have any more information on it? The info on the Cleveland and true temper websites is somewhat conflicting and vague. Just wondering if this shaft is away to achieve a similar outcome or is it something completely different