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NOW THIS !!! IS HOW A CLEVELAND CLASSIC SHOULD LOOK


ROBOPTI

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[quote name='bobcat' timestamp='1347036556' post='5602403']
You can use an extra heavy grip to DECREASE the swingweight as well.
[/quote]

I have a bunch of shaft butt-end weights i bought from [url="http://www.hirekogolf.com/hireko/orderportal/catalog_presentation/by_group/0/1592/0/0/0/0/0"]Hireko Golf[/url] that I'll be using to counter weight if I can't get my swing weight down.

[quote name='ej002' timestamp='1347037534' post='5602473']
How do you plan on fitting a .355 into a .350 head? Are you going to drill out the bore?
[/quote]

I was thinking of sanding the .355 taper tips to fit .350 TM adaptor... I remember seeing someone selling a C-Taper shaft with a TM tip in the BST a while back...


[quote name='gqjeff' timestamp='1347038402' post='5602531']
If you are doing it for a TM club with adapter my suggestion would be to use .370 adapter and shim the .355. iron shaft...
[/quote]

I tried to put my existing rescue shaft with the .370 adaptor into my driver/fairway head and it won't fit. Strangely, I can put my driver/fairway shaft into my rescue head. So .370 adapters only works on rescue heads, but .335/.350 driver/fairway adapters works with all TM heads...

EDIT: Just did more reseach and there IS actually a [url="http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Rescue-11-Hybrid-355-TIP-Adapter-TaylorMade-Authentic-Brand-New-Free-USPS-/190709197549?pt=Golf_Clubmaking_Products_US&hash=item2c67276aed#ht_2829wt_952"]TM adaptor for .355 tip[/url], it's actually for the TP Rescues while the non-TP Rescues uses the .370 tips.. anyways, since the rescue tip (.355 or .370) only works with rescue heads i'll still have to find a way to fit the .350 adaptors for the driver/fairway...

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interesting..

I have both also but never tried it. Unless your like my buddy that I re shafted an r11 tip up in a new shaft for. I gave it to him and a little while later he calls me and says it will not fit. I have tried it and have had a buddy try it on the course also and it won't fit. So I was like damn man maybe I grabbed the hybrid tip and installed that shaft but knew that was not likely because there was no sloop in the tip. I thought maybe he broke the fitting or bent it on the driver itself as he was replacing a shaft break that did not happen under normal playing conditions LOL..So I told him I was playing a bit later and to meet me with the shaft and I would check it out. So my buddy hands me the shaft and I start laughing. He looks at me like WTF. He never took the screw out of the new tip so it would not go in all the way. Funny as hell I thought. So I take screw out and walla it fits like a dream HAHAH.

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[quote name='jj3putt' timestamp='1347065235' post='5604647']
My new experiment....
[attachment=1338215:2012-09-07 19.21.14.jpg]
[attachment=1338217:2012-09-07 19.22.05.jpg]
[/quote]

I would love it if you could report back on how that combo works for you, I have been thinking similarly. I love my classic but I think the steel might just be a knockout in the i20. Either the raputre v2 or the i20, I can't decide and have both heads lying around.

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[quote name='SteveL1' timestamp='1346976266' post='5598965']
Can anyone help with amount to tip an S300 to get between Reg & Stiff for a 3w?
[/quote]

If you tip an S300 1 1/4", that will get you a "soft" stiff. Tip it 3/4" inch and that will get you exactly in between stiff and regular. If you tip it 0" to 1/4", that will give you a "firm" regular shaft. I hope that helps.

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Just ordered a 335. adaptor for my Raze fit, im about a 98-100mph swingspeed, so i thought and s300 would be the right one to test.

Any suggestions to tipping and weight in the head to set it at a decent swing weight, was thinking about trying it at 43½ inch playing length, using the stock shaft at the moment but cut 1 inch of it and liking it.

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[quote name='drumdude96' timestamp='1347111453' post='5606635']
[quote name='SteveL1' timestamp='1346976266' post='5598965']
Can anyone help with amount to tip an S300 to get between Reg & Stiff for a 3w?
[/quote]

If you tip an S300 1 1/4", that will get you a "soft" stiff. Tip it 3/4" inch and that will get you exactly in between stiff and regular. If you tip it 0" to 1/4", that will give you a "firm" regular shaft. I hope that helps.
[/quote]

[size=5][b]Thank you![/b][/size] That's exactly what I needed. I have an S300 coming Mon or Tues and this way I can sneak up on the right flex.

Should have also asked how will tipping effect spin and launch if any in a steel shaft?

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[quote name='justodd' timestamp='1347117076' post='5606965']
I got the 45" X100 for my G20 Should I just tip it an inch and throw it in?
[/quote]


I believe there is a standard tipping amount for steel going into woods. Like a inch and something, but don't quote me on that. I swing harder than average (114-118+ mph) and I went a half inch over the standard tipping and it feels great. Not super stiff but I can rip it as hard as I want and the ball just goes straighter.

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[quote name='drumdude96' timestamp='1347111453' post='5606635']
[quote name='SteveL1' timestamp='1346976266' post='5598965']
Can anyone help with amount to tip an S300 to get between Reg & Stiff for a 3w?
[/quote]

If you tip an S300 1 1/4", that will get you a "soft" stiff. Tip it 3/4" inch and that will get you exactly in between stiff and regular. If you tip it 0" to 1/4", that will give you a "firm" regular shaft. I hope that helps.
[/quote]

Why does 1 1/4" tipping give a soft stiff? I thought that was the standard tipping to play stiff?

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Just wondering if anyone has tried the old dynamic steel r/s flex shaft in a driver and or 3 wood. i've got a few of these headed my way (cost me like $4 each :yahoo:) and was hoping someone could shed some light on how they play?
Also, what tipping difference is required to have a 909d3 9.5* (204grams & 1.5" BBGM) and 909f3 15* (215 grams & 1"BBGM) play as similar as possible with the dynamic steel shaft . I want them both to play right between regular and stiff, or possibly slightly closer to stiff if anything to keep spin rates down. At the moment i am planning on tipping the shaft 1.5" for the driver and then 2" for the 3 wood - does this sound adequate? (my ss is probably in the 105-110 range but i try to keep it smooth and play a little bit softer flex)

Loving this topic BTW guys! I've struggled for so long with graphite shafts in my woods, particularly in driver. I'm sure someone will tell me i'm wrong, but you just don't feel as in control with graphite as you do with steel. I'm thrilled that this has worked for so many in improving consistency from the tee!!

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[quote name='lorenson21' timestamp='1347154201' post='5609519']
Thinking about throwing an x100 in a R7 TP 425. Anyone give me any advice? I see that the standard tipping is 1 1/4". How much butt trimming is needed for it to play 44"?
[/quote]

It depends on the BBGM "bottom bore ground measurement", I'm not sure what this is, but if you don't have a shaft in there at the moment then it should be pretty easy to work out. It is the difference between the length of the club with a shaft inserted and the length of the shaft itself (if you have a shaft handy to put into the head and calculate this difference) I suspect that it is about 1.5" or 2" in the R7 425 TP. The X100 shaft is 46" uncut, so if you want to work out the butt trimming required you can use this as the equation:
44" = 46"+ BBGM - tip trimming (1.25" if that's what you think you need) - butt trimming
therefore, Butt trimming required = 46"- tip trimming (1.25" if that's what you think you need) + BBGM - 44"
=0.75" + BBGM
i.e. once you know the BBGM then add 0.75" and get this cut off the butt
Another way to think of it is you want the club 44" then you need the shaft to be 44"- BBGM (as this adds to club length), so once you have tipped the shaft then you can instruct whomever is doing the cutting to 'butt trim the shaft to 44" - BBGM' and i suspect that this will be either 42.5" (BBGM 1.5") or 42" (BBGM 2")...

I hope i have made some sense :/

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[quote name='nicko4' timestamp='1347159921' post='5609987']
[quote name='lorenson21' timestamp='1347154201' post='5609519']
Thinking about throwing an x100 in a R7 TP 425. Anyone give me any advice? I see that the standard tipping is 1 1/4". How much butt trimming is needed for it to play 44"?
[/quote]

It depends on the BBGM "bottom bore ground measurement", I'm not sure what this is, but if you don't have a shaft in there at the moment then it should be pretty easy to work out. It is the difference between the length of the club with a shaft inserted and the length of the shaft itself (if you have a shaft handy to put into the head and calculate this difference) I suspect that it is about 1.5" or 2" in the R7 425 TP. The X100 shaft is 46" uncut, so if you want to work out the butt trimming required you can use this as the equation:
44" = 46"+ BBGM - tip trimming (1.25" if that's what you think you need) - butt trimming
therefore, Butt trimming required = 46"- tip trimming (1.25" if that's what you think you need) + BBGM - 44"
=0.75" + BBGM
i.e. once you know the BBGM then add 0.75" and get this cut off the butt
Another way to think of it is you want the club 44" then you need the shaft to be 44"- BBGM (as this adds to club length), so once you have tipped the shaft then you can instruct whomever is doing the cutting to 'butt trim the shaft to 44" - BBGM' and i suspect that this will be either 42.5" (BBGM 1.5") or 42" (BBGM 2")...

I hope i have made some sense :/
[/quote]



Thanks for the help

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Ok, thanks to Robo I had to try it. Put a Dynamic Gold S300 tipped 2 inches into an imix tip and attached it to my FT-IZ. I kind of like the old school meets futuristic look. Took it to the range today....I love it. I was shocked how nice it feels. Time will tell but worth a try before a $300 shaft. My current shaft is a AD-DI6s. This $13 experiment may kick it out. Thanks!!!

[attachment=1341795:2012-09-09 19.22.45.jpg]

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Ping G20 3h - Tour TFC
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Ping G25 LW - CFS X
Odyssey Black Series #9

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[quote name='Falang_Golfer' timestamp='1347307674' post='5618219']
Ok, thanks to Robo I had to try it. Put a Dynamic Gold S300 tipped 2 inches into an imix tip and attached it to my FT-IZ. I kind of like the old school meets futuristic look. Took it to the range today....I love it. I was shocked how nice it feels. Time will tell but worth a try before a $300 shaft. My current shaft is a AD-DI6s. This $13 experiment may kick it out. Thanks!!!

[attachment=1341795:2012-09-09 19.22.45.jpg]
[/quote]

Falang... Mind me asking your SS? Im thinking of tipping an s300 as well 2". Also, what length are you playing it? thanks

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[quote name='reg1900' timestamp='1347153068' post='5609427']
[quote name='drumdude96' timestamp='1347111453' post='5606635']
[quote name='SteveL1' timestamp='1346976266' post='5598965']
Can anyone help with amount to tip an S300 to get between Reg & Stiff for a 3w?
[/quote]

If you tip an S300 1 1/4", that will get you a "soft" stiff. Tip it 3/4" inch and that will get you exactly in between stiff and regular. If you tip it 0" to 1/4", that will give you a "firm" regular shaft. I hope that helps.
[/quote]

Why does 1 1/4" tipping give a soft stiff? I thought that was the standard tipping to play stiff?
[/quote]

Going in a 3 wood, not a driver.

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[quote name='blindwillie' timestamp='1347307839' post='5618241']
[quote name='Falang_Golfer' timestamp='1347307674' post='5618219']
Ok, thanks to Robo I had to try it. Put a Dynamic Gold S300 tipped 2 inches into an imix tip and attached it to my FT-IZ. I kind of like the old school meets futuristic look. Took it to the range today....I love it. I was shocked how nice it feels. Time will tell but worth a try before a $300 shaft. My current shaft is a AD-DI6s. This $13 experiment may kick it out. Thanks!!!

[attachment=1341795:2012-09-09 19.22.45.jpg]
[/quote]

Falang... Mind me asking your SS? Im thinking of tipping an s300 as well 2". Also, what length are you playing it? thanks
[/quote]

Playing it at 43 3/4. SS is around 100, maybe a little more. If anything, it feels soft, but need to play first. I tipped an extra half inch for the imix adaptor. Oh, and I also used a prosoft insert!!

Ping G25 9.5 - Diamana D+
Ping G20 3h - Tour TFC
Ping Rapture J 3-PW w/ Rombax 115i
Ping G25 SW - CFS X
Ping G25 LW - CFS X
Odyssey Black Series #9

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Hey ... Couple quick thoughts on posts I keep seeing

 

1. - GET 44 OUT OF YOUR HEAD !!!! ... I know what you are thinking. "Damn - I'll lose too much distance at 43.5 - 43.75 - I'll just try 44" ... TRUST ME ... I know your ego is telling you that ... But if you're going to build a steel driver - BUILD A STEEL DRIVER .. It'll be OK I PROMISE !!!!! ... I know your brain is telling you there is no way you will hit a 43.75 inch driver as long .. but you will !!!!!

 

If 44 works - GREAT - but if you are on the fence and you're ego is on your shoulder yelling at you - 43.50-43.75 - IT WILL BE OK !!!!

 

2. In my opinion ... saying that up front. Peeps are getting to paranoid on tipping. You dont need to tip the bejesus out of steel. Remember - It is stable and low torque in your irons - it's the same in the driver. Just tip it true to flex - and let it rip. That's the cool thing with steel. It is UBER-stable. and feels great - and super smooth. Don't fubar it by tipping it 47624765273465 inches cuz you think you need it to be firm bcuz of some perceive waggle-test - or bcuz you think graphite is more built for the stresses and forces created by the driver - YOU DON'T !!!! ... Just get true to flex and hit it ... It works. I promise ;).

 

AGAIN !!!! ...

 

gwar01_970418woods.jpg

 

Year ... 2000

Player ... Some guy named Woods

Driver ... 43.50 inch steel shafted COBRA driver

 

HE DESTROYED THE WORLD ...

 

We're buying into 2012 MARKETING ... A $14 steel shaft still works

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Can´t wait for my new razr fit adaptor to come in and throw a s300 in it and test it out at 43½ length :).

-------------------
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Hey ... Couple quick thoughts on posts I keep seeing

 

1. - GET 44 OUT OF YOUR HEAD !!!! ... I know what you are thinking. "Damn - I'll lose too much distance at 43.5 - 43.75 - I'll just try 44" ... TRUST ME ... I know your ego is telling you that ... But if you're going to build a steel driver - BUILD A STEEL DRIVER .. It'll be OK I PROMISE !!!!! ... I know your brain is telling you there is no way you will hit a 43.75 inch driver as long .. but you will !!!!!

 

If 44 works - GREAT - but if you are on the fence and you're ego is on your shoulder yelling at you - 43.50-43.75 - IT WILL BE OK !!!!

 

2. In my opinion ... saying that up front. Peeps are getting to paranoid on tipping. You dont need to tip the bejesus out of steel. Remember - It is stable and low torque in your irons - it's the same in the driver. Just tip it true to flex - and let it rip. That's the cool thing with steel. It is UBER-stable. and feels great - and super smooth. Don't fubar it by tipping it 47624765273465 inches cuz you think you need it to be firm bcuz of some perceive waggle-test - or bcuz you think graphite is more built for the stresses and forces created by the driver - YOU DON'T !!!! ... Just get true to flex and hit it ... It works. I promise ;).

 

AGAIN !!!! ...

 

gwar01_970418woods.jpg

 

Year ... 2000

Player ... Some guy named Woods

Driver ... 43.50 inch steel shafted COBRA driver

 

HE DESTROYED THE WORLD ...

 

We're buying into 2012 MARKETING ... A $14 steel shaft still works

 

With all due respect I think DLIII was hitting persimmon still in 2000.

 

With that said, i cant wait for a steely

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Had a chance to test out a steel shaft in my driver and 3 wood today and.... OMFG! The kid can find a fairway once more! Hit about 8 drives in a row with exactly the same ball flight and trajectory down the fairway. Will likely never use a graphite shaft again.... ever. period.

Due to the extra weight, steel just drops down into the slot for me and creates nice low draws with unbelievable dispersion. I actually had some confidence hitting drivers by the end of my on course practice (I know, I shouldn't have been hitting 8 balls off a tee on the course :P). This is something for me that seldom happens with a graphite shafted driver in hand.

The cheap shafts I got off ebay came as the wrong flex... wait for it.... senior/ladies dynalite flex as drumdude96 kindly informed me! and I initially thought that there was no way I could hit a shaft so flexible consistently. Given the 'tip soft' nature of the shaft (high launch shaft), and the fact that I tipped it a maximum of 3.75 inches to fit into my driver at a nice 43.75" with no butt trimming (4.25 trim for the 3 wood to play at 42.5") it has actually ended up... probably nearly stiff enough for a 105mph ss. Even though logic says it should be far too whippy and it does bend a fair bit when I waggle it, during the swing it just feels sooooooo stable! not bendy at all!

The ball flight seems lower than any graphite shaft i've hit before and although it was quite rainy and boggy I believe i would have gotten some serious roll out in dry conditions due to a noticeable reduction in spin in terms of the boring ball flight. I hit a couple of well struck drives 250m/275 yards and given the ground was so soft underfoot and they were launching quite low, I believe this could quite easily move up to 260-270m in dry conditions which is fantastic (possibly even 270m+ which makes me think my ss might be a bit faster than 105mph these days).

In conclusion, I believe that you have nothing to lose by trying a steel shaft in your driver. If you're like me and have tried every graphite shaft under the sun then it's not going to hurt to give steel a whirl. Spend a few bucks on a steel shaft and enjoy hitting your approach shots from the short stuff, I know I will!

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[quote name='nicko4' timestamp='1347447610' post='5627971']
Had a chance to test out a steel shaft in my driver and 3 wood today and.... OMFG! The kid can find a fairway once more! Hit about 8 drives in a row with exactly the same ball flight and trajectory down the fairway. Will likely never use a graphite shaft again.... ever. period.

Due to the extra weight, steel just drops down into the slot for me and creates nice low draws with unbelievable dispersion. I actually had some confidence hitting drivers by the end of my on course practice (I know, I shouldn't have been hitting 8 balls off a tee on the course :P). This is something for me that seldom happens with a graphite shafted driver in hand.

The cheap shafts I got off ebay came as the wrong flex... wait for it.... senior/ladies dynalite flex as drumdude96 kindly informed me! and I initially thought that there was no way I could hit a shaft so flexible consistently. Given the 'tip soft' nature of the shaft (high launch shaft), and the fact that I tipped it a maximum of 3.75 inches to fit into my driver at a nice 43.75" with no butt trimming (4.25 trim for the 3 wood to play at 42.5") it has actually ended up... probably nearly stiff enough for a 105mph ss. Even though logic says it should be far too whippy and it does bend a fair bit when I waggle it, during the swing it just feels sooooooo stable! not bendy at all!

The ball flight seems lower than any graphite shaft i've hit before and although it was quite rainy and boggy I believe i would have gotten some serious roll out in dry conditions due to a noticeable reduction in spin in terms of the boring ball flight. I hit a couple of well struck drives 250m/275 yards and given the ground was so soft underfoot and they were launching quite low, I believe this could quite easily move up to 260-270m in dry conditions which is fantastic (possibly even 270m+ which makes me think my ss might be a bit faster than 105mph these days).

In conclusion, I believe that you have nothing to lose by trying a steel shaft in your driver. If you're like me and have tried every graphite shaft under the sun then it's not going to hurt to give steel a whirl. Spend a few bucks on a steel shaft and enjoy hitting your approach shots from the short stuff, I know I will!
[/quote]

same thing happened for me! immediately started hitting beautiful draws, like one after another, after another. I haven't been able to do that with my woods in recent memory, and if I did It felt UN-controllable.

The weight of the steel drops the club into the slot and keeps it stable through impact, like the club wants to keep moving in the same direction, not fling off plane. I'm pretty sure I'll never go back to graphite. I'm hitting it the same distance w/ steel but way more accurately.

Anyone have any hypothesis' on why no pga tour guys are using steel?

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