NOW THIS !!! IS HOW A CLEVELAND CLASSIC SHOULD LOOK

[nicko4]

[quote name='tofur99' timestamp='1347455425' post='5628329']
[quote name='nicko4' timestamp='1347447610' post='5627971']
Had a chance to test out a steel shaft in my driver and 3 wood today and.... OMFG! The kid can find a fairway once more! Hit about 8 drives in a row with exactly the same ball flight and trajectory down the fairway. Will likely never use a graphite shaft again.... ever. period.

Due to the extra weight, steel just drops down into the slot for me and creates nice low draws with unbelievable dispersion. I actually had some confidence hitting drivers by the end of my on course practice (I know, I shouldn't have been hitting 8 balls off a tee on the course :P). This is something for me that seldom happens with a graphite shafted driver in hand.

The cheap shafts I got off ebay came as the wrong flex... wait for it.... senior/ladies dynalite flex as drumdude96 kindly informed me! and I initially thought that there was no way I could hit a shaft so flexible consistently. Given the 'tip soft' nature of the shaft (high launch shaft), and the fact that I tipped it a maximum of 3.75 inches to fit into my driver at a nice 43.75" with no butt trimming (4.25 trim for the 3 wood to play at 42.5") it has actually ended up... probably nearly stiff enough for a 105mph ss. Even though logic says it should be far too whippy and it does bend a fair bit when I waggle it, during the swing it just feels sooooooo stable! not bendy at all!

The ball flight seems lower than any graphite shaft i've hit before and although it was quite rainy and boggy I believe i would have gotten some serious roll out in dry conditions due to a noticeable reduction in spin in terms of the boring ball flight. I hit a couple of well struck drives 250m/275 yards and given the ground was so soft underfoot and they were launching quite low, I believe this could quite easily move up to 260-270m in dry conditions which is fantastic (possibly even 270m+ which makes me think my ss might be a bit faster than 105mph these days).

In conclusion, I believe that you have nothing to lose by trying a steel shaft in your driver. If you're like me and have tried every graphite shaft under the sun then it's not going to hurt to give steel a whirl. Spend a few bucks on a steel shaft and enjoy hitting your approach shots from the short stuff, I know I will!
[/quote]

same thing happened for me! immediately started hitting beautiful draws, like one after another, after another. I haven't been able to do that with my woods in recent memory, and if I did It felt UN-controllable.

The weight of the steel drops the club into the slot and keeps it stable through impact, like the club wants to keep moving in the same direction, not fling off plane. I'm pretty sure I'll never go back to graphite. I'm hitting it the same distance w/ steel but way more accurately.

Anyone have any hypothesis' on why no pga tour guys are using steel?
[/quote]

Has to be graphite shaft endorsements, otherwise at least some would play steel. The feel is waaayyyy better! The graphite shaft companies are making an absolute killing out of golfers everywhere and don't want it to stop because, for example, rory started using a steel shaft in his driver and the masses followed his example. I believe they are effectively preventing the use of steel drivers on tour to stop this from happening. The other thing that has to be considered is the fact that these guys play every day, have a very repetitive swing and have been professionally analysed to ensure that they are playing the most suitable graphite shaft possible. I am sure if I swung as well as they do i could probably find a graphite shaft that I could hit consistently :P

I agree with the club wanting to stay in the same direction, you definitely can't manipulate it to the same extent and it's really nice to end with a complete follow through - the club just keeps going, even after impact. I am the same as you, for me graphite feels and is uncontrollable. I'll go from snap hooks to block cuts yet still manage to hit my irons quite consistently. I think we are all on to something here!

[zenman4711]

How do you accurately measure the total length of the club? Is it from the butt of the shaft to where the sole or is it to the bottom of the bore?

Thanks.

[ScooterMcTavish]

Robo, long time reader, first time poster.

Thanks BTW. I am now watching a r7 superquad head on eBay for a little "experiment".

Thing is, I sort of understand this. I tried graphite in an old set of irons, and played them nowhere near as well as I play steel. A couple of years ago, a buddy gave me an old Nicklaus 380cc driver with a steel shaft - although I found it odd at the time to play it, and I did lose a few yards, my fade disappeared.

I'm one of those guys who needs the torque to get the face closed on these monster drivers (I'm 5'8" with gorilla arms), and a shorter steelie may give me the opportunity to "git after it".

[LBlack14]

[quote name='Orlimar1' timestamp='1347315684' post='5618941']
[quote name='LBlack14' timestamp='1347308143' post='5618265']
Put a TT Lite XL tipped 3.5" to play firm in my Supertri. Plays @ 44". Hit 1 damn fwy, LOL!
[/quote]


Are you kidding me Landon?
[/quote]

Nope Russ. I played Sunday with Brian (livegolf @ FGI) as he was passin' through town and that was it and it didn't come until # 17.

[Orlimar1]

Put a TT Lite XL tipped 3.5" to play firm in my Supertri. Plays @ 44". Hit 1 damn fwy, LOL!

 

 

Are you kidding me Landon?

 

Nope Russ. I played Sunday with Brian (livegolf @ FGI) as he was passin' through town and that was it and it didn't come until # 17.

 

 

 

 

Playing golf with Brian!!

 

Hope you guys had a fun round anyway. How'd he play? Great?

[BennyG19]

so, I've got a R11 with a S300 shaft that's 43.5"...

what weights should I put in the head? I've got a 1g, two 10g, and a 14g to choose from. I can't figure out the swingweight stuff on my own.

[SteveL1]

[quote name='BennyG19' timestamp='1347498070' post='5631823']
so, I've got a R11 with a S300 shaft that's 43.5"...

what weights should I put in the head? I've got a 1g, two 10g, and a 14g to choose from. I can't figure out the swingweight stuff on my own.
[/quote]

I think you are going to find the lightest combination you have available, 1g/10g, pretty heavy. I put a Rifle Lite in my R11 and it's about 15g lighter than the S300 and my sweing weight was about D4 with two 1g weights and a 46g grip. With the 10g in there is would be about D9-E0. You can try the 1g/10g combo with a Winn Ultra Light 25g grip or buy another 1g or 2g weight or better yet, just go out and hit it with what you have and see what you think. Some here have ended up liking the heavier swing weights.

[nicko4]

[quote name='zenman4711' timestamp='1347476224' post='5630037']
How do you accurately measure the total length of the club? Is it from the butt of the shaft to where the sole or is it to the bottom of the bore?

Thanks.
[/quote]

From the end of the butt to the sole along the centre of the shaft if that makes sense...

[jbl]

Just want to give a quick heads up to anyone wanting to try this with a 910, Titleist will do dynamic gold as a custom order even though it's not in the catalog. I called the other night and will have an s300 @ 43.5" next week.

[PixlPutterman]

Hey ROB, what are your thoughts on an S300 in the original X Speed

[thalley]

great thread! I just won a 905R 8.5 in good shape for $34 and will install an S300 tipped 1 1/4, 43.75 long, D2 sw. Can't wait to try it out. thanks again!

[Happytab]

With a swing speed of 95mph average should I be going with a s300 or r300? Thanks for the help.

[blink3665]

Just put a S300 into my Yonex 380 last night. Maiden voyage is in T-minus 30 minutes....

[Happytab]

Are you guys finding the ball flight higher or lower with the steel shaft?

[ScooterMcTavish]

[quote name='Happytab' timestamp='1347567675' post='5635653']
With a swing speed of 95mph average should I be going with a s300 or r300? Thanks for the help.
[/quote]

I'm around the same SS, and I think you could go either way. With the long graphite shafts, I have a hard time getting them closed in time with an S. Less issues with an R. However, I have ZZ lites in my Eye 2s, which are somewhere between S and X.

Why not order both for the extra $10? Start with the R, and if you find you're pulling a lot, drop the S in.

[LBlack14]

Had a blast! He shot +1 73 with a triple on #3.

[nicko4]

[quote name='Happytab' timestamp='1347567675' post='5635653']
With a swing speed of 95mph average should I be going with a s300 or r300? Thanks for the help.
[/quote]

I'd suggest R300. At 95mph you'll be fine in reg - steel plays much more stable so you'll hit it consistently even if it is slightly too flexible. I'm thinking it might be harder to keep it straight if it's too stiff with steel...

[drumdude96]

[quote name='thalley' timestamp='1347546086' post='5633899']
great thread! I just won a 905R 8.5 in good shape for $34 and will install an S300 tipped 1 1/4, 43.75 long, D2 sw. Can't wait to try it out. thanks again!
[/quote]

The standard amount to tip an S300 for a bore-through head (such as a 905R) is 0". Zip, zilch, nada, nothing. Unless you want it to play much stiffer than an S300 normally would, don't tip it.

[justodd]

I ended up going with a G20 9.5 with an X100 tipped 1 inch, playing length 44". This thing is AWESOME!. No distance loss to speak of, and it feels sooooooooooo good. Curious if anyone else notices better results with the ball teed about a half inch lower. I did my hybrid as well, same results. Thanks ROB!!!![attachment=1346187:G20 Steel.jpg]

It is funny how many people at the range were asking me about it. A couple people thought I was crazy, until they watch me hit it.lol

[justodd]

[quote name='Happytab' timestamp='1347568456' post='5635715']
Are you guys finding the ball flight higher or lower with the steel shaft?
[/quote]
I am finding a slightly higher launch, and a much flatter flight.

[ROBOPTI]

[quote name='justodd' timestamp='1347584391' post='5636833']
[quote name='Happytab' timestamp='1347568456' post='5635715']
Are you guys finding the ball flight higher or lower with the steel shaft?
[/quote]
I am finding a slightly higher launch, and a much flatter flight.
[/quote]

AGREED !!!!

[ROBOPTI]

I ended up going with a G20 9.5 with an X100 tipped 1 inch, playing length 44". This thing is AWESOME!. No distance loss to speak of, and it feels sooooooooooo good. Curious if anyone else notices better results with the ball teed about a half inch lower. I did my hybrid as well, same results. Thanks ROB!!!!

 

It is funny how many people at the range were asking me about it. A couple people thought I was crazy, until they watch me hit it.lol

 

 

I am NEVER going back ... I'll probably lose my membership into the Inner-Ho VIP room

[ROBOPTI]

[quote name='Happytab' timestamp='1347567675' post='5635653']
With a swing speed of 95mph average should I be going with a s300 or r300? Thanks for the help.
[/quote]

I'd go R300 and standard tipping ... That steel will keep you in control

[ROBOPTI]

[quote name='ScooterMcTavish' timestamp='1347478816' post='5630269']

[i]I'm one of those guys who needs the torque to get the face closed[/i] on these monster drivers (I'm 5'8" with gorilla arms), and a shorter steelie may give me the opportunity to "git after it".
[/quote]

IMO .. One of the most MISUNDERSTOOD physical properties of the modern era shaft / shafts period. If "we" understood - that torque is a good for a LOT !!! of "common people" - and helps that toe come flying thru impact ... especially with the massive distance of the toe from the shaft centerline (laymen terming that)

BRAVO for understanding what is happening !!!!

[ROBOPTI]

Ok, thanks to Robo I had to try it. Put a Dynamic Gold S300 tipped 2 inches into an imix tip and attached it to my FT-IZ. I kind of like the old school meets futuristic look. Took it to the range today....I love it. I was shocked how nice it feels. Time will tell but worth a try before a $300 shaft. My current shaft is a AD-DI6s. This $13 experiment may kick it out. Thanks!!!

 

 

 

 

I LOVE THIS THREAD ... It's like we are all waking up out a fog and realizing that the truth was there the whole time

 

BTW ... I'm about 2-3 bottles deep in 2003 Silver Oak Alexander Valley tonight .... Listening to "Lips Like Sugar" by Echo & the Bunnymen .... BEAT THAT ... I'm ALL GOOD !!! ... Catching up on the thread

[ROBOPTI]

 

BlueHorse LOVES Anacot Steel

[SteveL1]

Quick question......My understanding is that standard tipping for an S300 is 2" for a standard bore driver head. How many CPM are we talking per 1/4" either way from "standard"? If you were to go 1/2" one way or the other, are we talking 2cpm, 5cpm, 10cpm.....? Can an average guy even tell the difference of 1/4" or 1/2"?

[drumdude96]

[quote name='SteveL1' timestamp='1347598363' post='5637847']
Quick question......My understanding is that standard tipping for an S300 is 2" for a standard bore driver head. How many CPM are we talking per 1/4" either way from "standard"? If you were to go 1/2" one way or the other, are we talking 2cpm, 5cpm, 10cpm.....? Can an average guy even tell the difference of 1/4" or 1/2"?
[/quote]

Standard tipping for any DG wood shaft is 1 1/4" for a standard bore hosel in a driver. 2" is almost how much you would trim for a 5 wood. Not a good idea.

[SteveL1]

[quote name='drumdude96' timestamp='1347612308' post='5638141']
[quote name='SteveL1' timestamp='1347598363' post='5637847']
Quick question......My understanding is that standard tipping for an S300 is 2" for a standard bore driver head. How many CPM are we talking per 1/4" either way from "standard"? If you were to go 1/2" one way or the other, are we talking 2cpm, 5cpm, 10cpm.....? Can an average guy even tell the difference of 1/4" or 1/2"?
[/quote]

Standard tipping for any DG wood shaft is 1 1/4" for a standard bore hosel in a driver. 2" is almost how much you would trim for a 5 wood. Not a good idea.
[/quote]

Sorry, I read the sheet wrong. The Golfwoks sheet that came with my S300 says to add 1 1/2" to the amount listed for thru-bore heads which is 0" for a driver, 1/4" for a 2w, 1/2" for a 3w and 3/4" for a 4w so if I'm reading this correctly, 1 1/2" gets you a standard stiff and 1 3/4" gets you somewhere between stiff and X.

So how many cpm per 1/4" is it and can an average guy even feel the difference of 1/4"?

[bobcat]

Have fun with it guys, but if Steel shafts were truly better, you would see it on trending beyond this forum and perhaps even on the Tours, (which of course you don't).

Now this is not to say a steel won't work better in the drvier for particular people, who struggle with control. For those folks, I say more power to you if steel can help you hit more fairways. However readers here must appereciate this is just about some folks enjoying a cheap experiment and hardly the latest trend, or an intelligent option for the great majority of golfers.

Keep in mind there are some very good 90+ gram graphite driver shafts available which can really help with control off the tee which might be the better "experiement".

I think we all realize that Graphite shafts generally offer distance advantages, but you must also find one that offers control for your particular swing as well. I have personally never cared for graphite shafts with a weight below 75 grams, and then I usually go with 1/2" of tipping as well. (Tipping amounts vary and the bore depth of the driver must be considered). One of the best graphite "control" shafts I ever used was the Fujikura Vista Pro 90, (90 gram shaft). It was widely known to be a great FW/Hybrid shaft, but great as a Driver shaft too. There are plenty others in that weight category.

My advice therefore is to try a heavier graphite shaft at 44"-44.75" before going the 130 gram steel shaft route. Chances are it is the shorter shaft length that will [provide the most help with control off the tee, not the shaft material itself.

:golfer: