Easiest way to lower swing weight..a lot

[QuigleyDU]

So I have never paid attention to my swing weights. But out of curiosity, I checked them my irons were at D6. I thinking that is a bit heavy and would like to get them to D3 or 4. What is the fastest way to accomplish that.?

[Bad9]

If you've played them a while and like them don't do anything and leave them like that. Changing may not mean you hit them better. The best way would be to remove weight from the head but I doubt you can do that easily. Next best way to change the SW scale reading is to reduce the length.Someone will tell you to add weight to the butt which will change the SW reading but won't change anything about how they play.

Again if they play fine to you and feel good don't do anything.

[QuigleyDU]

Probably the right answer. Just leave them alone. Still curious if they would be “better” or more playable or I would hit them better if they were lighter..

[hurley999s]

Yeah and remember swingweight is really just a ratio of sorts...it’s not an actual measurement, like length or weight is. You can have 2 clubs at D6 that are totally opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of total weight, but proportionally they are similar. They will not feel it though.

[ckay]

You will have to use counterweights and it really isn’t cheap either.

[QuigleyDU]

So I have seen.. thanks!!

[Howard_Jones]

Sorry, its been up 10.000 times......Counterweight DONT WORK if we have a head weight issue,

It works ONLY if we stay within the same total weight, meaning SHAFT CHANGE NEEDED so forget it, its not whats asked for, but lower head weight.

 

Hosel drilling is how we reduce head weight, 3 SWP is no problem,. but to the OP,. your clubs where fine until you saw that value, so you are not going by what works for you, but what your mental level think is right, but thats not the way to go.

 

Set a piece of tape on the grip so 0.5 inch of the Grip gets covered, and lower your hands below that tape and test the club. 0.5" inch is equal to 3 SWP so here is how you can test that without full mods.

1/8 shorter = 0.75 SWP lower, so by "tuning" up and down" you can try off values between D6 and D3, but if you really want lower feel of head weight, reduction of head weight is needed.

[Valtiel]

Do they actually feel heavy or do you just think it is too heavy because the number seems high? If it is the latter then leave them alone. IMO lots of players could benefit from more weight, plus you are playing lighter shafts which means your "D6" would likely feel similar to "D4" if you had 130g shafts. That is very general and will depend on shaft balance point, but IMO higher swing weights with lighter shafts are perfectly fine. ONLY change if it feels wrong to you.

[Socrates]

 

15 minutes - tops.

[QuigleyDU]

playing 130 gram $ tapers.

[Valtiel]

Oh, sorry I was going off of your signature. I still maintain my point about feel though; only make adjustments if the clubs actually feel too heavy in your hands.

[Howard_Jones]

Porting like on the photo is max 1 SWP, the head on the photo even less....i would not destroy a set of Miuras this way.....

Hosel drilling is invisible, and it dont destroy chrome plating

ALL hosels ive seen can by ease be drilled 3/8" with the largest drill bit without issues (4.71 grams), if we need more, we have to study hosel shape and probably use a smaller bit for the rest.

Always start small and go up in steps on the drill bit. - the closest to 3 SWP using 1 size is 1.0" inch deep drilling using a 7/32 drill bit. (5.86 grams) so its many options for how we can make it.

[QuigleyDU]

Thanks! I am not brace enough to attempt something like that. I will probably just play them. I was just curious what the experienced club builders thought. Hosel drilling does make sense though.

[sailfishchris]

This is GolfWRX you sell them and buy a new set. Easy Peasy!

[QuigleyDU]

I do really like these irons. Not planning on changing at the moment.

[sailfishchris]

Mizuno does have "A" and "B" heads. I'm not sure off the top of my head which is heavier or lighter. You should find out if they are the heavier version could help solve your problem.

 

[Howard_Jones]

You did not ask for it, but IF, and this is a BIG IF, the LONG end of your set is the clubs that "feels head heavy", this might be a Swing weight SYSTEM issue.

The classic SW system where we use the same value for all irons, might look like its "equal" on the paper, but the fact is that it gives us progressive higher resistance as we go longer.

The alternative to SW matching is MOI matching where all clubs is made to have the same actual resistance (we swing them all the same, just like a Single length set, without being single length)

 

To figure out if this might be the issue and MOI match the solution, test your #9 and the longest iron side by side. If you feel that the #9 is good, and the #3 or #4 is a tad heavy (head heavy), then a mod to MOI match is the way forward. This chart below is a DIY MOI match in 6 different length progression options, most of them actually need some weight added back to the long irons, but here we take advantage of that SW value drops when we go shorter, but we DONT go shorter on all clubs, we leave the #9 iron as it is if that club is good. ALL options below will make a set where all clubs becomes like the #9 iron, the difference is how short we go in the long end.

 

The fast and easy, is the 10.7 mm options. We simply butt cut all clubs from #8 and longer with 2.0 mm progressive for each club (#8 = 2.0 mm then #7 = 4.0 mm, then #6 6.0 mm etc...) If the set is 3-PW our new #3 iron becomes about 0.5" inch shorter, or in the area of 3 SWP below your #9, but thats the difference they shall have as MOI matched. If your go 10.7 mm, there is no need for head weight adjustments, the new progression slope is all taken care of by the progressive butt cut alone, so this is "Measure 2x, cut once, add grips, get out and play"....cant be easier than that.

 

The other options need a head weight adjustment to get on the right resistance slope so all irons become as the #9 irons. The chart tells how many grams head weight we need to add after shortening, and as DIY we can go all the way to a 7.70 mm slope (progressive butt cut of 5 mm pr club), who gives us a #3 iron a tad shorter than a standard #5 irons, so here we can get "2 clubs shorter in" without buying a new driver.....

 

SO, try off the longest iron in the set, and compare to your #9 - then try the "tape down" method on the longest iron about 0.5 shorter and compare feel again.....if thats better you know what to do. PS! the 3/8" option or 1/8" progressive but cut is the most common choice, but here we have a few more options.

[getitdaily]

What miss, with your irons, plagues you? Can you take a few clubs out that are d3 and hit them on course to see if sw change will be good?

If you do plan to change the SW then...did you build the set yourself? D6 is 6g heavier than most standard sets. Are there tip weights in them that you could replace? That would be least intrusive but would require reshaft of all clubs. You can get tip weights for about $15 shipped.

[Adam C]

If you are worried about weight, I would look at total weight more than SW. You are playing 130g shafts which are about as heavy as you will find. Might look at dropping 10 grams and seeing what that does. If you find a neutral balanced or slightly more counter balanced shaft you can drop the total weight and swing weight at the same time.

[QuigleyDU]

They came direct from the factory that way. My signature is not correct. These are cobra king forged irons. With 130 gram kbs $ taper shafts.

[getitdaily]

You could pull one of the shafts to see if it has a tip weight and go from there...easy enough to just glue it back in

[roxald]

They most likely have tip weights if they came with $-Tapers.

I bought 2 sets of Forged Tec Blacks-1 with $-Taper 125s and 1 set with $-Taper 130s.

The $-Tapers are counterbalance and will probably have 6-8 gram tip weights. Mine were 1/4” longer than standard and had 8 gram tip weights.

Adjusting to lighten the SW should be easy by adjusting those tip weights.

Rox

 

 

[Valtiel]

The $-tapers are not really counterbalanced. They have a slightly higher balance point than normal but the both the Tour-V and regular Tour shafts are higher and still barely considered "counterbalanced".

[BirdieBob]

Your current SW is D6.....so to try, just choke down 1/4"...….and now you are swinging a club at D4.5!

[erock9174]

Lop off 1/2” or put a heavier grip on.

[QuigleyDU]

BRILLIANT!! hahaha.

[Krt22]

I have a set of Mp20 MMCs (Standard L/L/L) with the 130 $-tapers. I did not specify swing weight and them came in around D0. I guess if you want to call it just a high balance point shaft that is fine, but there is some impact on SW. If OPs came in at D6 and are standard length, I bet there are some tip weights that can be removed

[QuigleyDU]

Mine are plus 1/5 inch in length.

[JStang]

What grips are you using? I skimmed through the other responses and didn't see anyone ask this (apologies if they did). Also, you can pull the heads to see if there are tip weights in the shafts.

 

[Nessism]

Swingweight measures torque (weight x length) about a fulcrum 14" from the end of the shaft. These torque numbers are converted into a swingweight value, which is a scale someone invented for (presumably) simplification.