Best way / tool to get old epoxy out of bottom of hosel?

[huwwill22]

Anyone got any advice or tips on the best way to remove old epoxy from the bottom of a hosel? I have all the normal clubmaking tools and adapters recommended for cleaning out a clubs hosel, but whatever i try there always seems to be epoxy left at the bottom On the base of the hosel.

 

I guess another question is, is this small amount of epoxy at the base of the hosel going to make a difference when fitting a new shaft?

[Pepperturbo]

Small circular steel bristle brush for the drill; least that's what my guy uses.

[TLT_Dan]

[quote name='huwwill22' timestamp='1348529456' post='5688409']
Anyone got any advice or tips on the best way to remove old epoxy from the bottom of a hosel? I have all the normal clubmaking tools and adapters recommended for cleaning out a clubs hosel, but whatever i try there always seems to be epoxy left at the bottom On the base of the hosel.

I guess another question is, is this small amount of epoxy at the base of the hosel going to make a difference when fitting a new shaft?
[/quote]

A reamer (flat nosed drill) will work best, but even if you use a drill bit that fits the hosel you will get most of it out.

[trapdraw]

small flat head screw driver, scrape around the hosel before the epoxy cools, then a wire hosel brush. clean as a whisle

[Facetious]

The Golfworks sells reamers for all hosel diameters. They have always worked the best for me.

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GW0115

[NPVWhiz]

The easiest way to take care of this in my experience is to just use a little gel formulation epoxy solvent. You can buy this at the big box hardware stores. You have to follow the instructions for use...well ventilated area, gloves, etc. I pour a little into a small container, then use a Qtip to dab the stuff down into the hosel. Let it sit for a few hours, or overnight, then use a Qtip to remove most of the stuff. I then use a wet paper towel wrapped around the end of a rat tail file to clean out the residual epoxy remover and epoxy. It will be soft, and in some cases will sort of completely dissolve into the chemical epoxy solvent.

I then wash out the hosel with a little bit of Dawn dish soap and water, then dry, rinse/wash out with isopropanol (just common rubbing alcohol), then with acetone if I'm really feeling it that morning.

This sounds a little involved, but it's really a snap, and most of the time I just fill the hosel and ensure that I get a clean, bare surface. One caveat, though. I don't use it for drivers that have hosel plugs in the bottom of the hosel, as the plug will sometimes melt away. You also have to watch for irons that have hosel plugs that are plastic or some other material that might be removed by the stuff (which you have to do as well when you use a reamer).

I then check that all the hosel insertion depths are uniform, and if not, I'll just set the ferrules with a tool to set the insertion depth consistently, then do my final trim and dry fitting from there. If I'm really doing things right that day, I'll also zip out the hosels very lightly after the acetone rinse with a 200 grit small flapwheel sanding tool, then a final rinse with isopropanol/water and then dry and assemble.

I really like metal to metal epoxy bonds....

[KILLEDBYASHANKEDWEDGE]

Carbide reamer

[gqjeff]

[quote name='trapdraw' timestamp='1348529963' post='5688451']
small flat head screw driver, scrape around the hosel before the epoxy cools, then a wire hosel brush. clean as a whisle
[/quote]

That's how I do it too... Then some acetone and good to go.

[smoove]

[quote name='gqjeff' timestamp='1348627523' post='5696455']
[quote name='trapdraw' timestamp='1348529963' post='5688451']
small flat head screw driver, scrape around the hosel before the epoxy cools, then a wire hosel brush. clean as a whisle
[/quote]

That's how I do it too... Then some acetone and good to go.
[/quote]

Me too. Just be careful of hosel plugs like NPVWhiz said.

[Swingem]

Dremel with a small grinding bit. +1 on the hosel plugs on woods.

[Socrates]

I use a dremel with a 1/4" mounted abrasive bit to clean out the hosel. Do it when the epoxy is still hot and it all comes out in a couple of seconds. You can either blow out the debris or use a little acetone to get rid of any contaminants.

[dlow206]

I am able to remove 99% of the epoxy from the hosel, but there is a small (very tiny) amount remaining at the very bottom of the hosel. Is there anyway to remove this? I have used brushes, drill bits, etc. after heating.

[johnnybogey]

What I've found is the bristle brush drill bit is useless for bottom of hosel as the tip is metal. Great for the walls of the hosel.

I like the carbide reamer suggestion. Going to try that.

[goondawg]

Make your own sandpaper mandel. Quicker and much better than the wire bristle drill attachments.

[tdeutmeyer]

I just use a flat point drill bit made by grinding the tip flat on a standard drill bit and then grinding a small amount of relief on each flute so that the drill bit will cut. I use them all of the time for flat bottom holes in steel.

 

[Mikeski]

I use this. The bottom of the bit removes the epoxy pretty good.

If there is a crazy amount of epoxy I drill it out the finish up with this.https://www.golfworks.com/hosel-honing-wire-brush/p/gw1060/

[nitram]

Carbide Reamer and a .38/357 stainless bore brush

[ode1]

You can use old steel shaft tips as a bit......cut notches/teeth into them and that will get the stubborn epoxy on the edge of the hosel.

[Troutfly]

Cut scotch-brite pad into 3/8 squares, set on top of hosel, slowly start 1/4 drill bit into center and apply downward force. The pad will form to the inside diameter, when it bottoms, stop pushing and crank the drill speed up. Cleans like a champ, works even better if hosel is still warm. Hit it with brush and finish with a clean .50 Cal patch soaked in acetone and done.

[03trdblack]

This is what I do as well.

[roxald]

Same here!

Rox

[Vintage1976]

I don't have a reamer but I think I'll order one or two.

I usually use a regular drill bit and then go around the bottom edge with a bit nail before finishing with a small dremmel sanding bit..

[Howard_Jones]

You got plenty of tips for epoxy removal, so my post is not about that.

The hosel was made with a drill bit at the factory, so its deepest at the center, and a drop down there dont matter as long as we have full dept on the sides where the shaft ends up, so use a caliper and measure insert on the "heel and toe side" of the bore to figure out if the drop at the bottom have to be removed.

When you assemble the club, we should prevent epoxy to enter the inside of the shaft or the hosel bottom, and thats easy. When we apply epoxy, add only to the upper 1/3 of the hosel and the full length of the shaft tip. Hold the head upside down (hosel down) and put the shaft UP into the head, rotate it during insert. The shaft will bring epoxy down and cover the sides, but we prevent epoxy from escaping into the shaft and fill up the hosel bottom. When we do it like this, tip weights need a little epoxy on the sides before we put it into the shaft tip to keep them in-place and prevent potential rattle.

Next time, remove epoxy right after the shaft is pulled and the epoxy is still warm, its way easier then.

[Twohey]

I do this or an exacto knife. Also, I head the hosel with a heat gun to soften the epoxy. To finish, I use a sanding mandrel that golfworks sells.

[denkea]

You can also take a 9.0mm drill bit and grind the tip down pretty flat (so it doesn't drill deeper) and use that to clear epoxy from the bottom of the bore.

[third-times-a-charm]

I use an endmill bit and do it by hand