Anyone else disappointed in the SLDR? - OP REVIEW ON PG 14 9/13/13

[golfnut5438]

[quote name='Madball' timestamp='1379259697' post='7854751']
I tried 3 different SLDR's...

Either they suck or I can't hit a driver any more...
[/quote]

Doesn't suck for me. Has helped lower my index by more than a stroke the past month and is a fairway finder for me. No big lefts or rights. Probably the nicest TM driver I've owned and that includes most since the R510TP. I was fortunate to be fit for mine and that seems to be the running theme; those who have been fit, or have high spin issues, seem to really enjoy the SLDR. Low spin players, and OTR T&E (trail and error) fitters not so much. Sorry it's "sucks" for you, but I couldn't be happier with mine.

[NRJyzr]

[quote name='willboyrd' timestamp='1379252035' post='7854195']


+1. This hasn't typically been openly communicated by OEM's. I know Ping and Titleist both stated using a different Titanium composition in the 913 and G25 series drivers, but honestly, that's the first I heard of it (8 to 1 titanium comp I believe)
[/quote]

No, OEMs don't talk about it. Component companies do, however. They're usually pretty good about telling you which alloy is in play.

6-4 Ti was popular for a long time, may have been used for the "original" titanium drivers. Then we got Beta Ti (15-3-3, I think, maybe 15-3-3-3), and so on.

Great fun.

[TMBob]

[quote name='golfnut5438' timestamp='1379286469' post='7856507']
[quote name='Madball' timestamp='1379259697' post='7854751']
I tried 3 different SLDR's...

Either they suck or I can't hit a driver any more...
[/quote]

Doesn't suck for me. Has helped lower my index by more than a stroke the past month and is a fairway finder for me. No big lefts or rights. Probably the nicest TM driver I've owned and that includes most since the R510TP. I was fortunate to be fit for mine and that seems to be the running theme; those who have been fit, or have high spin issues, seem to really enjoy the SLDR. Low spin players, and OTR T&E (trail and error) fitters not so much. Sorry it's "sucks" for you, but I couldn't be happier with mine.
[/quote]

T&E fitting does not make a head bad for someone. Lack of knowledge of their specs of their swing and the make up of different shafts will make fitting by T&E difficult for any head out there.

My eye has always confirmed what I see from my ball flight and I know my specs....the two heads that I have tried are telling me that these heads are slightly more closed in a 9.5 loft then my R11s with a 9 degree of loft and possible a different internal bias also with the CG so much forward when compared to the R11s. To me, no matter how open you adjust the head, the club sits slightly closed compared to the R11s in a open position and the ASP on N.

I am so confused trying to dial these heads in that I considered trying the 10.5, but I think it just hit me. I need to try the 8 degree first. That will not go left I bet.
Anyone have an 8 degree yet?

[TMBob]

[quote name='Golfjunki71' timestamp='1379260525' post='7854825']
[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379217477' post='7853115']

It is heavy because Ti-aluminum alloy head, it is not titanium head.
[/quote]


Titanium weighs twice as much as aluminum , good try though
[/quote]

What it is made out of does not make a head heavier then others "if" there is a means to adjust the head weight externally. TM could make these heads weigh what ever they choose no matter the material and they did...203 grams. If the stock length was 44.5, the head would not be heavy.

[TheBoomer]

I hit the SLDR OTR at a big box store and hated it.

Got Fit (Scratch Golf in MI) with a ACCA Tour Z Shaft and Im in love with the Driver again.

Launch High and let it roll.

Gained 20 yards from my Callaway RFE/Tour AD Di6

[^m9]

[quote name='golfnut5438' timestamp='1379286469' post='7856507']
[quote name='Madball' timestamp='1379259697' post='7854751']
I tried 3 different SLDR's...

Either they suck or I can't hit a driver any more...
[/quote]

Doesn't suck for me. Has helped lower my index by more than a stroke the past month and is a fairway finder for me. No big lefts or rights. Probably the nicest TM driver I've owned and that includes most since the R510TP. I was fortunate to be fit for mine and that seems to be the running theme; those who have been fit, or have high spin issues, seem to really enjoy the SLDR. Low spin players, and OTR T&E (trail and error) fitters not so much. Sorry it's "sucks" for you, but I couldn't be happier with mine.
[/quote]

Same with me. I knew I hit it high compared to most people on the course, but didn't really know how high spin I was. The SLDR after weeks of real on course testing told me the driver was a good fit for me. Just seemed to carry farther with these high knuckleball flights and also hit the ground running vs. my G25. I seriously couldn't believe it.

That was in the 9.5 stock 57 Speeder in stiff (I know, wth right?) with the slider one or two notches towards the draw setting.

Got fitted for it indoors (Trackman) and was fit for the 57 Speeder in X stiff 9.5. I tried the real deal TS but it didn't make any difference for me. Should be fun trying this on course! FWIW my SS during the fitting were anywhere between 108 and 112 (which I did not know up until that fitting). Most of the "fittings" I've done in the past were into those screen monitors which are a big joke.

[Banker]

I posted in another SLDR topic a little bit ago, but I'll post here too. I struggled with the lefts with mine from the day I got it. Went from 45.5" to 45". SW was still North of D5. Read a DIY thread here on backweighting so Saturday went & stuck a 1/4" carriage bolt with a few nuts & wrapped in tape into the butt. Dropped the SW to D2.

Like a different animal yesterday. Hit 0 drives in the left rough. Turned over a couple when I tried to, but predominantly straight to slight fade flight. Didn't notice any distance loss either.

10.5 head, set to 10 & one notch from full fade.

[bcflyguy1]

[quote name='Banker' timestamp='1379358611' post='7860939']
I posted in another SLDR topic a little bit ago, but I'll post here too. I struggled with the lefts with mine from the day I got it. Went from 45.5" to 45". SW was still North of D5. Read a DIY thread here on backweighting so Saturday went & stuck a 1/4" carriage bolt with a few nuts & wrapped in tape into the butt. Dropped the SW to D2.

Like a different animal yesterday. Hit 0 drives in the left rough. Turned over a couple when I tried to, but predominantly straight to slight fade flight. Didn't notice any distance loss either.

10.5 head, set to 10 & one notch from full fade.
[/quote]
Glad you found a good solution; know you've been wrestling with it for some time.

[nbg352]

[quote name='Froth' timestamp='1379183777' post='7850685']
[quote name='nbg352' timestamp='1379169803' post='7849767']
It's all well and good to hit your own driver from whatever lie you deem fit Very few people feel compelled to hit driver off the deck and even fewer can actually do it. If you come into my store to hit my drivers, you will hit them off a tee. At least until I am confident that your swing is as good as you seem to think it is. (BTW, with as good a swing as you claim to have, you should be good to go from whatever height tee is available in the stores, don't you think)?
[/quote]
I guess they're closed minded, like you. I prefer a very low tee height, Would you rather me hit a ball or two off the deck or put a dent in the crown from skying a tee height that is entirely too high for me?

[quote name='nbg352' timestamp='1379171633' post='7849901']
And yet, you are probably the same guy who will not hit a club off the mats at the range because you don't want to damage your clubs. Silliness? Do what you want with your own clubs. Respect everyone elses. Thy're not yours to put your marvelous swing on, off the deck. You can hit my inventory off the deck when your Visa has cleared at the till. But then, I'm sure if you accidently dimpled the sole of one of our drivers, you would immediately take responsibility and pony up the cash, right? I sure hope so, because, as I found out after some other hot shot thought he could hit it off the deck, that kind of damage is not covered under warranty.
[/quote]
it was a freaking DEMO club. LOL.

I wouldn't buy a damn thing from you with your attitude. Even if you were the last store on earth to stock it.
[/quote]
Well then I'd be fairly certain that the "freaking DEMO" cllubs that [b]I [/b]freakingpay for, would survive to see another day, then, wouldn't I?

[Quasimoto]

[quote name='rafal' timestamp='1375927001' post='7628730']
[quote name='MG 1977' timestamp='1375923441' post='7628266']
I really liked the original Slider with the Mizuno badge.... MP600.
[/quote]

Appx. 2 MP600s sold worldwide.
[/quote]

I got one of those 2. Still have it. I have not hit it for several years now, but I'll take it for a ride again. I hit a lot of good drives with that stick.

[chisag]

... Hate to write a post about actually owning and playing a SLDR, but what the heck. I'll start off saying I absolutely love the SLDR. Best driver I have hit in a very long time. I am a little older but still play to a 1 and my ss is consistantly around 98/99 with a smooth swing for reference and comparison. My favorite driver from the last 5 years is the Cobra ZL. Loved the sound/feel and performance was great. Played the RBZ last year and other than a littl too much spin that cost me on occassion, it was extremely accurate and I had confidence in it. Yet felt if I could bring the spin down I would really have something.

... This year I put the R1 in the bag, and although I got awesome numbers on the LM, I just couldn't get it to perform consistently on the course. I admit I didn't care for the sound/feel and that always has an effect, even if sub conscious. So I tried all the drivers again on a demo day expecting to purchase a Nike Covert and came home with a Stage 2 Tour. It brought my spin down compared to last years RBZ, but still not in love with th sound/feel. I "just happened" to be in the PGA Superstore the day the SLDR was released.

... Loved the look as it reminded me of my old 510tp. The sound and feel was perfect to my eyes and ears and it felt soooooo solid. I did something I have never done, bought it right then and there. Figured there was a 30 day return policy, so why not? The shafts that worked best for me in the RBZ/R1 were AD-DI6, Ozik Code 6 and the Mugen Black. The Code 6 launched a little too high, so put in the AD-DI6. In my experience as a smooth swinger, the AD only works well when I really go after it. Just swinging 70% doesn't work for me. And it was even worse in th SLDR. Next was the Mugen Black and my last hope. This combo borders on magical. I am hitting to spots I haven't seen in quite a few years and actually hit some of my longest drives on a very familiar course. I have gained 10-15 yards over the Stage 2 tour, something I would have sworn was not possible. But more importantly, I have a ton of confidence in this combo and swinging 80% produces outstanding distance and dispersion.

... So while I have been marginally disappointed in my RBZ, R1 and not so much with the Stage 2 Tour, the 10.5* SLDR is everything I want in a driver. A high ball flight, good roll and tight dispersion with almost perfect sound and feel. I should add I play mine at 44" and had to add lead tape to the toe, which I balanced out with the sldr moved to neutral and the head in the standard position. I tinkered with everything quite a bit and ironically found standard positions worked the best. I have ordered several more adaptors and will try a Kai'li, RIP Alpha and an old NV Extreme I still have. I'd love to put in my Cinnamon but it is an X flex and just don't have the speed to make it sing. Ill post results if one of those shafts outperform the Mugen Black with a Shotmaker combo.

... Lastly, I have not had a Taylor Made driver in my bag since the 510tp, and now my last 4 have been TM. And with the SLDR driving the ball has ceased to be a weakness in my game. Ymmv ...

[Krt22]

[quote name='willboyrd' timestamp='1379261478' post='7854911']
[quote name='Golfjunki71' timestamp='1379260525' post='7854825']
[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379217477' post='7853115']
It is heavy because Ti-aluminum alloy head, it is not titanium head.
[/quote]


Titanium weighs twice as much as aluminum , good try though
[/quote]

Not arguing with anybody because I'm not knowledgable enough about the materials but isn't titanium much stronger than aluminum? Thus needing less of it to be structurally sound in a driver head?
[/quote]

Yes it is, 3-4x as strong depending on the alloy grade, so it may be more dense, but you need much less of it for equivalent strength. Being that is is a "harder" material, they may have went to a higher aluminum content to help with sound/resonance

[TMBob]

[quote name='chisag' timestamp='1379385561' post='7863397']
... Hate to write a post about actually owning and playing a SLDR, but what the heck. I'll start off saying I absolutely love the SLDR. Best driver I have hit in a very long time. I am a little older but still play to a 1 and my ss is consistantly around 98/99 with a smooth swing for reference and comparison. My favorite driver from the last 5 years is the Cobra ZL. Loved the sound/feel and performance was great. Played the RBZ last year and other than a littl too much spin that cost me on occassion, it was extremely accurate and I had confidence in it. Yet felt if I could bring the spin down I would really have something.

... This year I put the R1 in the bag, and although I got awesome numbers on the LM, I just couldn't get it to perform consistently on the course. I admit I didn't care for the sound/feel and that always has an effect, even if sub conscious. So I tried all the drivers again on a demo day expecting to purchase a Nike Covert and came home with a Stage 2 Tour. It brought my spin down compared to last years RBZ, but still not in love with th sound/feel. I "just happened" to be in the PGA Superstore the day the SLDR was released.

... Loved the look as it reminded me of my old 510tp. The sound and feel was perfect to my eyes and ears and it felt soooooo solid. I did something I have never done, bought it right then and there. Figured there was a 30 day return policy, so why not? The shafts that worked best for me in the RBZ/R1 were AD-DI6, Ozik Code 6 and the Mugen Black. The Code 6 launched a little too high, so put in the AD-DI6. In my experience as a smooth swinger, the AD only works well when I really go after it. Just swinging 70% doesn't work for me. And it was even worse in th SLDR. Next was the Mugen Black and my last hope. This combo borders on magical. I am hitting to spots I haven't seen in quite a few years and actually hit some of my longest drives on a very familiar course. I have gained 10-15 yards over the Stage 2 tour, something I would have sworn was not possible. But more importantly, I have a ton of confidence in this combo and swinging 80% produces outstanding distance and dispersion.

... So while I have been marginally disappointed in my RBZ, R1 and not so much with the Stage 2 Tour, the 10.5* SLDR is everything I want in a driver. A high ball flight, good roll and tight dispersion with almost perfect sound and feel. I should add I play mine at 44" and had to add lead tape to the toe, which I balanced out with the sldr moved to neutral and the head in the standard position. I tinkered with everything quite a bit and ironically found standard positions worked the best. I have ordered several more adaptors and will try a Kai'li, RIP Alpha and an old NV Extreme I still have. I'd love to put in my Cinnamon but it is an X flex and just don't have the speed to make it sing. Ill post results if one of those shafts outperform the Mugen Black with a Shotmaker combo.

... Lastly, I have not had a Taylor Made driver in my bag since the 510tp, and now my last 4 have been TM. And with the SLDR driving the ball has ceased to be a weakness in my game. Ymmv ...
[/quote]


Since my SS is close to yours I find you post interesting. I have a question for you.....the RBZ was what loft? You mentioned that you have a 10.5 SLDR, never heard in the RBZ or what position that you played your R1 in? What was the other TM driver did you play, as you mentioned the last 4 drivers were TM

RBZ, R1, SLDR and ?

[chisag]

... The RBZ was a 9.5* and I played the R1 in just about every conceivable position with quite a few different shafts and was never really comfortable with any of them. You forgot the Stage 2 Tour as it was mentioned in my post.

[TMBob]

[quote name='chisag' timestamp='1379390505' post='7863847']
... The RBZ was a 9.5* and I played the R1 in just about every conceivable position with quite a few different shafts and was never really comfortable with any of them. You forgot the Stage 2 Tour as it was mentioned in my post.
[/quote]

Thanks....so I take it that the Stage 2 was 9.5 also

[Jooma]

[quote name='Froth' timestamp='1379219855' post='7853295']
[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379217477' post='7853115']
It is heavy because Ti-aluminum alloy head, it is not titanium head.
[/quote]
Aluminum is lighter than Titanium, boss.
[/quote]
Aluminum is about 40% strength of titanium - so you need twice the mass to achieve the same strength, therefore the head is heavy, boss.

[PingDrv00]

You are still assuming that by appearance you can diagnose the metal make up of the head. I highly doubt TaylorMade is using crap metal to make product. If they are than I just don't think it would perform.

[chisag]

[quote name='TMBob' timestamp='1379398007' post='7864111']
[quote name='chisag' timestamp='1379390505' post='7863847']
... The RBZ was a 9.5* and I played the R1 in just about every conceivable position with quite a few different shafts and was never really comfortable with any of them. You forgot the Stage 2 Tour as it was mentioned in my post.
[/quote]

Thanks....so I take it that the Stage 2 was 9.5 also
[/quote]

... The Stage 2 Tour is 10.5

[DaBigSaus]

So I played 18 yesterday with my SLDR fit for me with the Oban Kyoshi white 65x. And let me tell you! When you get dialed in the confidence grows. I hit 10 of 12 fairways. The other 2 weren't far offline. I missed 2 off the center and they turned out to be knuckleballs with very little spin and still rolled out a good clip. Was by far the most fun I had grabbing a driver out. Blows my R1 out of the water. For the people that complain that it misses huge I understand. Because before I got fit I felt the same way. But when you find the right shaft for your game man it's awesome. The SLDR won't be leaving my bag anytime soon!!!

[Froth]

[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379413158' post='7864325']
[quote name='Froth' timestamp='1379219855' post='7853295']
[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379217477' post='7853115']
It is heavy because Ti-aluminum alloy head, it is not titanium head.
[/quote]
Aluminum is lighter than Titanium, boss.
[/quote]
Aluminum is about 40% strength of titanium - so you need twice the mass to achieve the same strength, therefore the head is heavy, boss.
[/quote]
You are still incorrect. Keep spreading your misinformation though. After all, if you believe it nobody will prove you otherwise. You obviously know very little(or nothing) about the alloying of metals and why they choose the materials they use so I'll explain it a bit for you.

99.9% of all Golf clubs that are made of Titanium are using a Titanium-Aluminum alloy, Just to get you up to speed.

These are the most commonly used Titanium-Aluminum alloys used in Golf clubs made today:
[size=4]-------
6-4 Titanium contains 6% Aluminum, 4% Vanadium with the rest of the % being Titanium.
3-2.5 Titanium contains 3% Aluminum, 2.5% Vanadium with the rest of the % being Titanium.
10-2-3 Titanium contains 10% Vanadium, 2% Iron, 3% Aluminum with the rest of the % being Titanium.
15-3-3-3 Titanium contains 15% Vanadium, 3% Chromium, 3% Aluminum, 3% Tin with the rest of the % being Titanium.
15-5-3 Titanium contains 15% Molybdenum, 5% Zirconium, 3% Aluminum with the rest of the % being Titanium. [/size]

There is also "CP" Titanium, which is called CP because it stands for Commercially Pure, It is soft and not very strong(Used in the food industry/surgical tools) - It is not used in quality golf clubs. It is also CHEAPER than Ti-Aluminum alloy. There are many other alloys of Titanium, such as SP700 and DAT51 - they also contain percentages of other metals in low amounts.

Titanium-Aluminum alloy is BETTER for golf clubs, and any golf club you pick up off the shelf that says 'Titanium' on it to compare to the "SLDR" in weight, is also made of a Titanium-Aluminum alloy. The Driver you are hitting and in your bag RIGHT NOW, is made of Titanium Aluminum alloy.

I was a Machinist and a Mechanic for a Decade, so...Your move, "Boss".

[Jooma]

[quote name='Froth' timestamp='1379481646' post='7870009']
[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379413158' post='7864325']
[quote name='Froth' timestamp='1379219855' post='7853295']
[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379217477' post='7853115']
It is heavy because Ti-aluminum alloy head, it is not titanium head.
[/quote]
Aluminum is lighter than Titanium, boss.
[/quote]
Aluminum is about 40% strength of titanium - so you need twice the mass to achieve the same strength, therefore the head is heavy, boss.
[/quote]
You are still incorrect. Keep spreading your misinformation though. After all, if you believe it nobody will prove you otherwise. You obviously know very little(or nothing) about the alloying of metals and why they choose the materials they use so I'll explain it a bit for you.

99.9% of all Golf clubs that are made of Titanium are using a Titanium-Aluminum alloy, Just to get you up to speed.

These are the most commonly used Titanium-Aluminum alloys used in Golf clubs made today:
[size=4]-------
6-4 Titanium contains 6% Aluminum, 4% Vanadium with the rest of the % being Titanium.
3-2.5 Titanium contains 3% Aluminum, 2.5% Vanadium with the rest of the % being Titanium.
10-2-3 Titanium contains 10% Vanadium, 2% Iron, 3% Aluminum with the rest of the % being Titanium.
15-3-3-3 Titanium contains 15% Vanadium, 3% Chromium, 3% Aluminum, 3% Tin with the rest of the % being Titanium.
15-5-3 Titanium contains 15% Molybdenum, 5% Zirconium, 3% Aluminum with the rest of the % being Titanium. [/size]

There is also "CP" Titanium, which is called CP because it stands for Commercially Pure, It is soft and not very strong(Used in the food industry/surgical tools) - It is not used in quality golf clubs. It is also CHEAPER than Ti-Aluminum alloy. There are many other alloys of Titanium, such as SP700 and DAT51 - they also contain percentages of other metals in low amounts.

Titanium-Aluminum alloy is BETTER for golf clubs, and any golf club you pick up off the shelf that says 'Titanium' on it to compare to the "SLDR" in weight, is also made of a Titanium-Aluminum alloy. The Driver you are hitting and in your bag RIGHT NOW, is made of Titanium Aluminum alloy.

I was a Machinist and a Mechanic for a Decade, so...Your move, "Boss".
[/quote]
I am really scared Mr. Machinist and a Mechanic for a Decade and I resent your tone. You are so superior that it kicks the pants out of me. Give me some facts not the information you have surfed from the internet. Even a mechanic can do that.
TM will never give you the composition of their Ti-aluminum alloy SLDR head because people would find out that it is 30% of cheap aluminum and that is why the head is heavy.
[b][i]IF you were a [/i][/b][b]Machinist and a Mechanic of the Decade - I would believe you.[/b]

[Froth]

You're fully entitled to believe whatever you'd like about me, so...do as you wish. I'm well aware of what I did and where I did it

[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379496318' post='7870243']
TM will never give you the composition of their Ti-aluminum alloy SLDR head because people would find out that it is 30% of cheap aluminum and that is why the head is heavy.
[/quote]
It's ok, we all learn new things every day! You've got to admit to being wrong to learn to be right though. From my perspective, you pulling a random 30% aluminum number out of your a** is worth NOTHING. Here is why, Let me break it down for you - [i]sir[/i].

For the sake of a number we're all accustomed to, we'll use 460 cubic centimeters. Now, lets do some math

a 460cc Chunk of SOLID Titanium(not hollow) would weigh ~2076 grams
a 460cc Chunk of SOLID Aluminum(not hollow) would weigh ~1476grams

70% of the Titanium weight = 1453.2grams
30% of the Aluminum weight = 442.8grams

Add them both together, you get [b]1896grams.[/b]

A difference of 180grams LIGHTER than Solid Titanium.

Did you read that? The 70%Titanium/30%Aluminum is LIGHTER than the pure titanium. Not a single alloy of Titanium that I am aware of uses 30% aluminum in it, it would be too weak to take the abuse they were designing it for. Not only that...IT WOULD BE LIGHTER. If you'd like to post some FACTS, rather than trolling and useless crap...please do so. Otherwise, your statements are falsities without an ounce of anything backing them up. Oh, by the way - CHEAP aluminum is LIGHTER than Quality aluminum. I'm not even defending Taylormade here, I don't much like them as a company.

Edit: Also, I am assuming English is not your first language.
[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379496318' post='7870243']
You are so superior that it kicks the pants out of me.[/quote]
It kicks the pants [i]out[/i] of you? Why were the pants [i]inside[/i] of you? I wish our signatures allowed quotes from other members in them. Because that gem right there would be in mine [i]forever.[/i]

[Club junkie]

[quote name='TMBob' timestamp='1379344399' post='7859475']
[quote name='Golfjunki71' timestamp='1379260525' post='7854825']
[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379217477' post='7853115']

It is heavy because Ti-aluminum alloy head, it is not titanium head.
[/quote]


Titanium weighs twice as much as aluminum , good try though
[/quote]

What it is made out of does not make a head heavier then others "if" there is a means to adjust the head weight externally. TM could make these heads weigh what ever they choose no matter the material and they did...203 grams. If the stock length was 44.5, the head would not be heavy.
[/quote]


Good point. What weighs more? A ton of bricks or a ton of feathers. I thought because club head volume is limited manufacturers use these high strength lightweight alloys so they can move weight around and change the centre of gravity.

[NRJyzr]

[quote name='Club junkie' timestamp='1379501987' post='7870341']
[quote name='TMBob' timestamp='1379344399' post='7859475']
[quote name='Golfjunki71' timestamp='1379260525' post='7854825']
[quote name='Jooma' timestamp='1379217477' post='7853115']
It is heavy because Ti-aluminum alloy head, it is not titanium head.
[/quote]


Titanium weighs twice as much as aluminum , good try though
[/quote]

What it is made out of does not make a head heavier then others "if" there is a means to adjust the head weight externally. TM could make these heads weigh what ever they choose no matter the material and they did...203 grams. If the stock length was 44.5, the head would not be heavy.
[/quote]


Good point. What weighs more? A ton of bricks or a ton of feathers. I thought because club head volume is limited manufacturers use these high strength lightweight alloys so they can move weight around and change the centre of gravity.
[/quote]

They've been using the alloys since the beginning. Some of the Beta Ti alloys that were considered exotic when they first appeared on the golf club landscape came into being before clubheads got much over 400cc.

That said, you're right about playing around with alloys in order to move weight around. They want strength to withstand golf impact stresses with thinner pieces, so they can move the weight around to produce the desired effects.

It's said they have found using some form of magnesium, they could blow past the COR/CT limits currently in place, so Ti could eventually fade. Much as the Nike resin based balls had to be "dumbed down" to meet the distance standard. Ultimately, it's all related to costs; what produces most profit.

[fats]

[b]SLDR is a fabulous driver IMOP. I sold my R1 the next day. 10.5* adjusted to 10* Just be careful and stay within your stiffness range as too stiff makes it "feel" too light and it will show extreme low spin. I had them remove a Speeder 57 "R" from another SLDR and checked it out agains the Matrix RUL "S" I had in my R1 and the Speeder "R" was [/b][b]exactly the same stiffness.[/b]

[b]So buy one with a shaft that best suits your game and feel whether it's X or R.[/b]
[b]Trajectory is very slightly lower than my R1 but it carries just as far but with high heat on landing. [/b]
[b]Best driver I've hit. [/b]

This was THE first time I've ever used an OEM shaft and liked it.

[TheFlyingWASP]

Nope, but I was until I knew how to hit it. I posted this in another thread, but it fits here too... I'm sure some people will yell "fanboy"', but the SLDR is the real deal. It took me a few rounds to figure it out. At first I couldn't hit it. Everything was low & short. Then I really started teeing the ball up higher than normal and making a better effort at hitting up on the ball. Once I figured this out, WOW! I don't know how many extra yards I've gained. I didn't walk any off, but my playing partner & I have always had about the same length drives. I may be a few yards longer on one hole, he may be a little longer on the next. Once I dialed in the SLDR my mis-hits were going as far as his good drives & when I really put a great swing on it, I was 20+ yards past him. The further into the round I got, the better I was hitting it. Since then, I am consistently the longest driver (by a good ways) in my group every time we play. So there you have it (my $0.02 worth anyway).

[Lobber]

[quote name='TheFlyingWASP' timestamp='1379629220' post='7879645']
Nope, but I was until I knew how to hit it. I posted this in another thread, but it fits here too... I'm sure some people will yell "fanboy"', but the SLDR is the real deal. It took me a few rounds to figure it out. At first I couldn't hit it. Everything was low & short. Then I really started teeing the ball up higher than normal and making a better effort at hitting up on the ball. Once I figured this out, WOW! I don't know how many extra yards I've gained. I didn't walk any off, but my playing partner & I have always had about the same length drives. I may be a few yards longer on one hole, he may be a little longer on the next. Once I dialed in the SLDR my mis-hits were going as far as his good drives & when I really put a great swing on it, I was 20+ yards past him. The further into the round I got, the better I was hitting it. Since then, I am consistently the longest driver (by a good ways) in my group every time we play. So there you have it (my $0.02 worth anyway).
[/quote]

You are tempting me to try it again. I had a 10.5 TP and just did not like it. Returned it for store credit. Dropped by a different store today (Golfsmith) to demo Titleist 913 D3 and D2. Got some great numbers with D2/Phenom RIP 70. The fitter asks if I tried the SLDR and I said yes and it did not agree with me. He said just for fun try it again. Put me in a 9.5 TP Stiff set to 11 degrees. Crushed the ball time after time - excellent launch, low spin and consitently 10 yds better than the Titleist. Still skeptical I ask if I can demo a 10.5 with the same TP shaft. Numbers much worse with 10.5 head. Makes no sense to me! Still on the fence but am so tempted to give it another try.

[TheFlyingWASP]

It was one of those situations where I REALLY want something to work, but it just wasn't. That's how I felt & normally after a few rounds & a new driver goes south, I'm back to my old one. I don't know if I've finally become a zombie to their advertising, but from everything I had read, all the reviews I've looked at, something just kept telling me to ride this one out. Be patient. Give it another shot. I'm glad I did, because right now I've got 5 other drivers sitting in a bag in my basement that probably won't see the light of day until I take them out to box them up & ship them to the highest bidder.

[Tiptx1122]

I was once a TM hater as this driver I took the time to get it dialed in. I had some frustrating moments as it's usually the drivers that I start off so good with that I end up selling after the honeymoon effect leaves. This is one very accurate driver, it has the potential to bomb it out there when needed as I like the feel, looks and sound. I don't know weather or not to give all the credit to TM as I do have a premium shaft the White Oban Kiyoshi. I never once hit the stock shaft. I also know Henrick Stenson is loving his new driver as well.

[Lobber]

Ok Time to eat crow here. I returned a 10.5 TP and said SLDR not for me. That was 3 weeks ago. Decided to drop into Golfsmith this week and get on a monitor. Was killing 9.5 which I did not believe. Tried the 10.5 and nowhere as good for me. Almost bought it but was skittish as I did not trust Golfsmith monitors. Today I went to a different shop with outdoor range and hit 30 balls. WOW WOW Wow ! The 9.5 set to 10 Neutral was giving me mid high piercing BOMBS and with range balls at that. The interesting thing was that the stock Fuji 57 held up fine and there was no need to go to TP shaft at least today. Will put it in play tomorrow morning and report back. Have a new uncut Matrix Red Tie lying in wait unless the Speeder acts out. Bottom line is that I am happy I revisited the SLDR and took some time to dial in