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Cobra's new King F8 drivers, woods, hybrids and irons


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Now they told me my 3 hybrid is on back order!

 

Just got another message that my 6 iron is on back order!

 

How is a 6 iron on back order? Like, how hard/expensive is it to have a few 6 iron heads sitting in a warehouse?

Whats going on Cobra? I haven't been here a long time - any reps around this forum?

 

Ordered my one length three hybrid December 8 and because I ordered a different shaft I’m not getting it until 15 April I’m told and that’s only because I ordered it so far back that I’m getting it then. others that ordered after January may not even get it till May I’m told it’s just ridiculous

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The drivers look awesome

Taylormade QI10LS - set to 6* - Ventus TR black 7X

Taylormade BRNR mini driver - 11.5 set to 9.5 - KBS TD category 4 70gram
Taylormade QI10 tour 2 hybrid - Mitsubishi Tensei blue 85x
Taylormade P790 (23) - 4-pw - Project X LS 6.5
Callaway Jaws Raw - 50s, 54x, 58x - Project X LS 6.5

Taylormade Spider Proto milled

 

Callaway Chrometour X

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is there an f8 baffler?

Titleist TSR4 /Ozik F6M2/Ozik TP6HD/EVO III FUJI/fuji pro 2.0
Cobra Ltd 3 Kaili 80

Cobra Ltd 5 Kaili 80 (sub :Cobra F6 Baffler 18.5 Kaili 80)
Adams XTD TI  22 Hybrid
Honma 757B Blades 4-pw . s300 xp 
Nike Vapor Pro combo AW 50*,Ping 3.0 EYE 54, 58 

Bettinardi SS 2 silver

Nike B1-05 Origin (Rare)
Slazenger 508/Kirk Currie KC02B

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... Fly Z was probably the best driver I ever played but I went to the Epic last season because it was longer and almost as forgiving but just not as accurate for me. This year I picked up the F8 and F8+ and really wanted the F8+ to be my driver. It is as long or longer than the Epic, a little more forgiving and equally accurate . But after 70 rounds it is clear the F8 is the better driver for me. Just as accurate as the Fly Z and as long as the Epic and just crazy forgiving. Paired with the Even Flow Blue I am having a great driving season so far and have found the Arccos that comes with Cobra drivers very interesting. For a 65 yr old my stats for driving my average range is in the bottom 30% at 246-278 but my distance is in the top 5% at 259. I blame the hot air and winds in Phoenix that create some longer than normal (319yds) and shorter than normal (218) when downwind and downhill or into the wind and uphill. I have found the Arccos information very interesting, especially since it is free with any Cobra driver.

Driver:       TM Qi10 ... AutoFlex Dream 7 SF405
Fairway:    TM Qi10 5 wood ... Kai'li Blue 60R
Hybrids:    Ping G430 22* ... Alta CB Black 70r
                  TM Dhy #4 ... Diamana LTD 65r

Irons:         Titleist T200 '23 5-Pw ... Steelfiber i95r
Wedges:    Vokey 50*/54*/58* ... Steelfiber i95r
Putter:       Cobra King Sport-60
Ball:           2024 TP5x/2023 Maxfli Tour

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Why is this F8 not getting the accolades it deserves

 

this and the g400 blow the m3/4 and rogue away in my mind

 

just one view, but there has to be more out there

 

ball speeds and moi don't lie - awesome combination on both

 

90%+ of golfers you see out there are not on GolfWRX. They get their "info" based on commercials and who plays what on tour. That's why these OEM's pay pro's big $$ to play their gear. Most people know about the big names and that's really it.

 

From data I've seen, the F8+ with the weight forward is comparable to LST and SZ are far as spin killing goes. One downside to buying Cobra stuff without a fitting though, is in my personal experience the "niche" brands experience a lot more loss of value when used. M3/Rogue heads still going for $350+ on the forums while F8 heads are probably worth about $250-$275. Plus side though... Cobra has a really good selection of nice stock shafts to put in, while IMO TM and Cally still lack a little bit for no upcharge options.

 

I happen to love my F8 3w, absolutely bomber. Little tough to hit off tight lies due to the rails but honestly I'm not sure I could go back to non-rail woods. It's saved me so many times when I hit the ball a little fat. If I found a good deal with a shaft that I think could fit me, I'd probably buy a used F8+ just to see if I could gain a little more distance on miss-hits. I got fit in this M2 and I was getting 1.49 smash on good hits. Can't really beat that so really it just comes down to how far will my bad shots go, and will they end up in the rough/OB or can e9 face help. I hit G400 on trackman before and I was getting slightly higher ballspeeds but only 1-2mph.

 

 

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Why is this F8 not getting the accolades it deserves

 

this and the g400 blow the m3/4 and rogue away in my mind

 

just one view, but there has to be more out there

 

ball speeds and moi don't lie - awesome combination on both

 

90%+ of golfers you see out there are not on GolfWRX. They get their "info" based on commercials and who plays what on tour. That's why these OEM's pay pro's big $$ to play their gear. Most people know about the big names and that's really it.

 

From data I've seen, the F8+ with the weight forward is comparable to LST and SZ are far as spin killing goes. One downside to buying Cobra stuff without a fitting though, is in my personal experience the "niche" brands experience a lot more loss of value when used. M3/Rogue heads still going for $350+ on the forums while F8 heads are probably worth about $250-$275. Plus side though... Cobra has a really good selection of nice stock shafts to put in, while IMO TM and Cally still lack a little bit for no upcharge options.

 

I happen to love my F8 3w, absolutely bomber. Little tough to hit off tight lies due to the rails but honestly I'm not sure I could go back to non-rail woods. It's saved me so many times when I hit the ball a little fat. If I found a good deal with a shaft that I think could fit me, I'd probably buy a used F8+ just to see if I could gain a little more distance on miss-hits. I got fit in this M2 and I was getting 1.49 smash on good hits. Can't really beat that so really it just comes down to how far will my bad shots go, and will they end up in the rough/OB or can e9 face help. I hit G400 on trackman before and I was getting slightly higher ballspeeds but only 1-2mph.

 

 

In terms of the value, Cobra does drop a bit faster I'd say, but it also starts at $100 less than the other "big name" drivers you mention. so technically in your example above, they are pretty much a wash if selling an M3 head for $350 and a F8 head for $250.

Srixon Z565, Miyazaki Kaula Kori 6x
Cobra F9 Aldila Tour Blue 75x
Cobra F7 19* and 23* hybrids
Cobra Amp Forged 5-PW KBS Tour S+
Vokey SM6 50F, 54F, 58M
Spider Tour Red

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Kind of... If a stock M3 is $500 new, and selling for $350 on forums, then that's a 30% price slide. $400 F8 going for $250 is roughly a 38% slide. Pretty close but it's getting better. Few years ago, you could find like new Fly Z heads on ebay for <$100 after the club being out only like 9 months. Cobra has definitely built the brand up but they lack a lot of the tour presence and advertising. However, I think that's good because it helps keep overheads low while offering a product that's just a good as all the rest.

 

I somewhat wish I had gone for the F8+ when Dicks had that 1 day 20% flash sale though. Heads going for around $275 online means at worst I'd have only taken about a $50 loss. I actually am considering going back to Cobra though.. My old Fly Z with the Chrome Elements shaft was so easy to hit. Spun a bit too much but it still got out there.

 

 

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I’ve had the F8+ since December and coming from G and G400 drivers, I can say yes the cobra is more forgiving, but not necessarily longer. Actually I had a G25 years ago and traded it for the G, not the 30, when the G came out. Then when G400 came out I could not get over how forgiving and long it was, so got rid of G and got the 400.

 

When I saw all the technology/milling that went into the cobra I wanted to hit it, but in December nothing was out so ordered it untested. I got it in January and loved it from the get go. Was straight, or if needed you could work it either way set at 11 degrees. After almost 3 months I still like the club, but one day about a month ago I was browsing the net and I saw a brand new G25 on eBay for $125 never hit, but had a tour stiff shaft, but I had a stock stiff still at home so I ordered it. I hate to say it but that G25 can actually out distance the F8+ and almost as forgiving. It may be the shaft cause I actually put a different shaft in my cobra. I have always used stiff around 60 gram shafts, but for some reason I’ve never had luck with a fujikura Kuro Kage stiff, so I tried a regular in the cobra and works well, but still may not be the right shaft, and I can explain why I think that.

 

I’ve had an Epic driver and did not like, got rid of it right away, so when I saw Rogue come out, cause I had my G25 and F8+ and played jail break technology before was not excited! Yep I never mentioned it but you may have noticed what I did leave out of this wall of text......I have never been fit for a driver, only irons! Stupid I know, all that $$$$ for those drivers......until today, thank you Justin at continental golf!

I would not have believed it but yes I do know for sure now that the shaft is the main part of a driver, not necessarily the head. So seems the Rogue head with the Tour AD shaft is a great fit, 270 Carry, I cant argue, I’m 64! I’m told same shaft that spieth uses which has nothing to do why we decided on it, that came from track man, I just say whose using as a reference to which shaft, nice launch angle, low spin. Sorry for the walk of text just sharing as we all do here.

 

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Don't want to quote your wall of text but I disagree with your statement about the shaft being the heart of a driver. I think it's the complete opposite, and in order to prove it to you, please watch this video from TXG (good golf channel on youtube).

 

In case you can't watch or do not want to for whatever reason, here is the summary:

 

SZ with a HIGH launch shaft vs a G400 Max with rebar (very low/low shaft). the SZ launched about the same but had significantly less spin and a lot more carry and roll over all. If we believe the shaft OEM's that the shaft is the heart of a driver, you'd expect the SZ build to have a very high launch with high spin, and maybe some ballooning. However, that's not the case at all.... The DNA of the head makes much more of a difference in flight than the shaft ever could. This is why I personally believe that shaft is really more about feel in your hands and during the swing, and matching the right shaft feel to the right head for YOUR swing.

 

 

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Don't want to quote your wall of text but I disagree with your statement about the shaft being the heart of a driver. I think it's the complete opposite, and in order to prove it to you, please watch this video from TXG (good golf channel on youtube).

 

In case you can't watch or do not want to for whatever reason, here is the summary:

 

SZ with a HIGH launch shaft vs a G400 Max with rebar (very low/low shaft). the SZ launched about the same but had significantly less spin and a lot more carry and roll over all. If we believe the shaft OEM's that the shaft is the heart of a driver, you'd expect the SZ build to have a very high launch with high spin, and maybe some ballooning. However, that's not the case at all.... The DNA of the head makes much more of a difference in flight than the shaft ever could. This is why I personally believe that shaft is really more about feel in your hands and during the swing, and matching the right shaft feel to the right head for YOUR swing.

 

Oh I’ll check out the video I’m all for positive feedback, and I’m sure you’re right I’m not real familiar with the WRX site it seems like everybody out here is a professional I don’t know it just seems like everybody knows the golf business heck of a lot more than me anytime if I put anything out here it always gets criticized and yeah maybe I don’t have all the facts but I base that statement on the fact on being fit for irons with different shafts like my latest Ap3’s. I could not hit those clubs with a C taper light but when I got the 6.0 PX lz and I can’t miss a center the club face and it’s almost like automatic golf I’m sorry but I’ll check it out .

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I'm not a pro, I am very from that. I have just learned a lot from the many knowledgeable folks on here, plus I consume a lot of content from other sources, TXG is one of them and also use my own experiences. I don't just take everybody for their word ...but, when somebody posts a somewhat scientific and data based video like I did above, it's a good resource.

 

One of the biggest things I have learned regarding club build and selection is that shaft does matter; very much so... but not in the ways I thought it did. At least for me, all things equal (weight, flex, club head attached), shaft does not effect my launch and spin greatly. I have Trackman data from February where I was launching a "high launch" driver shaft a hair lower than a "low launch" one using the same head, weight and flex. However, they felt pretty different and the high launch one kicked a bit too much for my swing and I was over drawing it, or holding the face off and then hitting a big push cut. The low launch version fit my swing better not because of the spin but because it felt better and reacted better to my swing. This is why blind buying doesn't always work out.

 

 

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I'm not a pro, I am very from that. I have just learned a lot from the many knowledgeable folks on here, plus I consume a lot of content from other sources, TXG is one of them and also use my own experiences. I don't just take everybody for their word ...but, when somebody posts a somewhat scientific and data based video like I did above, it's a good resource.

 

One of the biggest things I have learned regarding club build and selection is that shaft does matter; very much so... but not in the ways I thought it did. At least for me, all things equal (weight, flex, club head attached), shaft does not effect my launch and spin greatly. I have Trackman data from February where I was launching a "high launch" driver shaft a hair lower than a "low launch" one using the same head, weight and flex. However, they felt pretty different and the high launch one kicked a bit too much for my swing and I was over drawing it, or holding the face off and then hitting a big push cut. The low launch version fit my swing better not because of the spin but because it felt better and reacted better to my swing. This is why blind buying doesn't always work out.

 

I watch the video yes very informative I agree it is a combination of both the shaft in the head just for me it seems the head has to fit what I like to see but for me it always seems a different shaft made the club perform better. The shaft I think I referenced I have that tour A.D. and why I was not put in a SZ head was because I don’t have a high launch angle I need a little help so with the shaft I believe they said it was a low spin but might’ve had a low kickpoint it works out for me. Thanks

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You can't assume one shaft will work for any head. Generally, I know that I need a more "smooth" lower launching shaft for my current head and swing, but if I were to play a low launch head like SZ or LST, I may need to get a more active shaft to help get my launch up. Then, with a more active shaft, I may need to tip or even open the club face up a bit to help combat over draw... etc, etc, the tinkering and fitting goes on.

 

And yes, a shaft can help get your LA up a bit, but if you're launching a SZ at 9*, putting in a high launch shaft isn't going to suddenly get you to 13 or 14*. You'll likely get more launch by moving the ball up 1-2 inches in your stance (will likely get higher AoA/dynamic loft) than you would changing shafts.

 

Anyway... Long story is, just get fit ;)

 

 

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You can't assume one shaft will work for any head. Generally, I know that I need a more "smooth" lower launching shaft for my current head and swing, but if I were to play a low launch head like SZ or LST, I may need to get a more active shaft to help get my launch up. Then, with a more active shaft, I may need to tip or even open the club face up a bit to help combat over draw... etc, etc, the tinkering and fitting goes on.

 

And yes, a shaft can help get your LA up a bit, but if you're launching a SZ at 9*, putting in a high launch shaft isn't going to suddenly get you to 13 or 14*. You'll likely get more launch by moving the ball up 1-2 inches in your stance (will likely get higher AoA/dynamic loft) than you would changing shafts.

 

Anyway... Long story is, just get fit ;)

 

......And I did, today, but sometimes my adult ADD (maybe), does not let me remember all the facts ?

This is the shaft in my Rogue...

Brand new for the 2018 season, Graphite Design introduces the latest in the Tour AD premium line of golf shafts, the Graphite Design Tour AD IZ – “Into the Zone”.

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I play my F8+ with a 16 gram in front and 2 gram in rear. I am a cobra staffer and got my hands on full sets of weights and have been tinkering with them.

 

Also another note that will be fun to discuss, my cobra rep told me at our demo day that playing 2 of the heavy weights (12+) in both spots on the F8+ head makes the driver head non conforming by USGA standards. That's why cobra didn't make the "Tour Length" driver in the F8+, only in the F8. Don't know the science behind it or if it's even true, just was a cool topic of conversation.

Cobra Aerojet 8* Tensei White 2.0 Prototype 65TX
Titleist TSi3 15*. Tensei AV Raw White 80x.
Cobra Tour Forged 3i. X100.
Cobra CB 4-6. X100. 

Cobra MB 7-PW. X100.
Vokey SM9 50, 56, 60. TT X100  
Spyder X Hydroblast Flow Neck

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I play my F8+ with a 16 gram in front and 2 gram in rear. I am a cobra staffer and got my hands on full sets of weights and have been tinkering with them.

 

Also another note that will be fun to discuss, my cobra rep told me at our demo day that playing 2 of the heavy weights (12+) in both spots on the F8+ head makes the driver head non conforming by USGA standards. That's why cobra didn't make the "Tour Length" driver in the F8+, only in the F8. Don't know the science behind it or if it's even true, just was a cool topic of conversation.

 

How is that different from hot melting a driver? Would be nice if someone from Cobra could clarify.

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I play my F8+ with a 16 gram in front and 2 gram in rear. I am a cobra staffer and got my hands on full sets of weights and have been tinkering with them.

 

Also another note that will be fun to discuss, my cobra rep told me at our demo day that playing 2 of the heavy weights (12+) in both spots on the F8+ head makes the driver head non conforming by USGA standards. That's why cobra didn't make the "Tour Length" driver in the F8+, only in the F8. Don't know the science behind it or if it's even true, just was a cool topic of conversation.

 

How is that different from hot melting a driver? Would be nice if someone from Cobra could clarify.

 

Like I said, not sure on the science. Don't know if it's the exact specific spots and localization of the weights, or if they just never actually pitched the idea of 2 heavy weights to the USGA. Like I said, don't know if it has any truth to it,and I'm not sure on the science

 

But it also does make sense as to why they never made the F8+ in the "Tour Length" model.

Cobra Aerojet 8* Tensei White 2.0 Prototype 65TX
Titleist TSi3 15*. Tensei AV Raw White 80x.
Cobra Tour Forged 3i. X100.
Cobra CB 4-6. X100. 

Cobra MB 7-PW. X100.
Vokey SM9 50, 56, 60. TT X100  
Spyder X Hydroblast Flow Neck

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is there an f8 baffler?

 

I'm looking for the same thing. I think that the F8+ 4-5 metal is the closest thing. Would just need to order it .75" short.

 

Haven't found anything that will kick the baffler out of the bag.

G430 Max 9* - Hzrdus Blue PVD 
Stealth 15* - Tour AD-IZ 

U505 2i - Hzrdus Black rdx

T200u 4i - Tour AD
Fly Z + 5-P - PX LZ

SM10 - 50, 55, 60

Versa 7
 

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The F8 Tour Length driver has a 16 and a 6 gram weight in play. I don’t get why a 6 gram weight would cause any worry.

 

The 16 and 6 wouldn't. A 12 and 12 or 16 and 12 weight is what apparently makes it non conforming. And also it's *ONLY* in the F8+ Head. Not the normal F8. I'll try to talk to my rep about it and see if he can shine some more light for me

Cobra Aerojet 8* Tensei White 2.0 Prototype 65TX
Titleist TSi3 15*. Tensei AV Raw White 80x.
Cobra Tour Forged 3i. X100.
Cobra CB 4-6. X100. 

Cobra MB 7-PW. X100.
Vokey SM9 50, 56, 60. TT X100  
Spyder X Hydroblast Flow Neck

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So I would be good with a 12 and 8 but not a 16 and 8

 

Probably. The way I understood is if you use double digits in both. But dont go off what I say, cause I really don't know. Just passing along what I heard

Cobra Aerojet 8* Tensei White 2.0 Prototype 65TX
Titleist TSi3 15*. Tensei AV Raw White 80x.
Cobra Tour Forged 3i. X100.
Cobra CB 4-6. X100. 

Cobra MB 7-PW. X100.
Vokey SM9 50, 56, 60. TT X100  
Spyder X Hydroblast Flow Neck

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