Titleist's new TS 2 & TS 3 driver - shot @ 2018 US Open

[craz-e]

Well testing complete TS2 v TS3 to see if anything can replace my 910 D2.

Winner on the day was the TS3 8.5 deg with the easy flow 6.0.

I did pick up a lot of extra distance mainly due to the trusty 910 not really hitting the right launch conditions.

 

So...ordered?

 

Damn straight!

Ordered it at 44.5”

Hopefully it comes in at the desired swing weight

[SAM_PGA]

I must admit that my swing isn't in mid season form right now but I am consistently hooking my TS3. I have reduced loft to effectively open the face and that didn't help. Next step is to change the weight for my round this afternoon.

Reducing loft opens face... but only statically. To play less loft you have square the face which negates the open face. Read Wishon's post about how adjustable drivers work.

 

To reduce the rotation of the clubhead through the ball, you need to adjust the hosel to flat settings... .75º flat std loft B1 or .75º flat and .75º less loft C1.

The B1 setting with the weight in the fade position helped a ton. I actually left more out to the right than I hit left.

 

I am really impressed with the distance I am seeing from this club when not centered. The course was pretty wet yesterday so not a ton of roll out but it was nice to get some carry distances when the pitch mark was within a yard of the ball.

 

Awesome to hear. Here's tips on how to adjust the Titleist drivers... for a right handed golfer.

 

CG weight... use it to control CG for your misses on the face, not to control flight. If you have tendencies to miss in the heel place the weight on draw. If you have tendencies to miss in the toe place the weight on fade. DO NOT USE THE WEIGHT TO CONTROL FACE ANGLE its simply a small change in CG to help your tendencies. If you play "army golf" on your contact leave the CG weight on neutral. THE CG WEIGHT IS THE MOST MISUNDERSTOOD PIECE OF THE PUZZLE!!! Use it to control your face mishit tendencies.

 

Sure Fit Hosel for Dynamic Face Rotation... If you want help releasing the face or increase face rotation then you want upright lie settings, start with A2 and then back off to fine tune. If you want the club to "not go left" or place a tendency to go right then you want to flatten the lie, start with B1. Both these setting are standard loft.

 

Sure Fit Hosel for Spin Control... If you need more spin start with A4, less spin place on D1. Remember adjusting loft does close/open the face respectively but only statically. To actually play that loft you must rotate the face to a square position at address and more importantly hit the ball with a square face angle!

 

Hey Sam, how does adding additional weight to the head affect the ball flight? My setup is TS2 45 inches at D2. The red weight. Curious if I swapped to a heavier weight and went to D3 or D4 (standard setup at 45.5 inches). More spin or less spin? Easier to hit it left or right? Thanks.

 

Head weight isn't going to effect ball flight, directly anyway. It is used to control the swingweight, or as a better explanation, the FEEL of the club. The better the club feels the better you will swing it which may change flight but more importantly increase consistency.

[Kmac]

Anyone who got the TS2 and has played it feel like they saw a ton of spin? When I had mine at the range it seemed like it was spinning out of control. I left it at home for the golf trip I just got back from because of it and now I'm back to pondering a switch to the TS3.

[Jagpilotohio]

Anyone who got the TS2 and has played it feel like they saw a ton of spin? When I had mine at the range it seemed like it was spinning out of control. I left it at home for the golf trip I just got back from because of it and now I'm back to pondering a switch to the TS3.

 

It was “spinning out of control”. LOL!

 

I’m picturing a car doing 360’s on ice or Gemini VIII spinning out of control in space.

[Kmac]

Anyone who got the TS2 and has played it feel like they saw a ton of spin? When I had mine at the range it seemed like it was spinning out of control. I left it at home for the golf trip I just got back from because of it and now I'm back to pondering a switch to the TS3.

 

It was “spinning out of control”. LOL!

 

I’m picturing a car doing 360’s on ice or Gemini VIII spinning out of control in space.

 

lol, spinning so much I was scared to take it out on the courses I've never played before. I would have doubled my lost ball count. I should probably swing better, I guess.

[oneaugusta]

No haven’t seen a ton of spin, in fact 300 less than 917 D2. Maybe work on angle of attack.

[Kmac]

Yeah most likely its a bad swing on my part. And for some reason I always struggle with a shorter driver when everyone else says its easier to hit straight. My swing must be crazy messed up, lol

[toddmanley]

I re-confirmed my TS2 choice when over the weekend I was doing an iron fitting and asked the fitter if I could hit a few drives to validate my Titleist Thursday fitting session data. Both the Titleist and iron fitting sessions used the same Trackman model and the numbers from the iron fitting were spot on to what I saw when Titlest fit me. This re-confirmed the TS2/Smoke combo was right for me.

[Rig14Port]

Update: I’m not good enough for TS3.

Other than a couple bombs I’ve hit on the course I’m just not finding enough fairways. TS3 just isn’t forgiving enough on miss hits. Also, Kind of on the fence about the sound/feel which I was a huge fan of at the demo day. I think I may be going back to the trusty fairway finding M1

[MattyO1984]

Update: I’m not good enough for TS3.

Other than a couple bombs I’ve hit on the course I’m just not finding enough fairways. TS3 just isn’t forgiving enough on miss hits. Also, Kind of on the fence about the sound/feel which I was a huge fan of at the demo day. I think I may be going back to the trusty fairway finding M1

 

What did you come into the TS3 from? I went from 917D2 and I find the TS3 just as, if not more, forgiving.

[Rig14Port]

Update: I’m not good enough for TS3.

Other than a couple bombs I’ve hit on the course I’m just not finding enough fairways. TS3 just isn’t forgiving enough on miss hits. Also, Kind of on the fence about the sound/feel which I was a huge fan of at the demo day. I think I may be going back to the trusty fairway finding M1

 

What did you come into the TS3 from? I went from 917D2 and I find the TS3 just as, if not more, forgiving.

 

Taylormade 16 M2 and 17 M1 460 for last couple of years. 10.5 head set to 9*. The M Series feel/performance across the face is much more consistent than the TS3. One thing I did notice and was a little concerned about during testing with TS3 was with the head color being such a dark gloss black finish the transition from the face to head isn't defined. This makes it hard to "see the face" - may have a subconscious affect on my confidence with it. Also, the flatter face of the TS just doesn't look as forgiving.

 

Came from 915 8.5* D2 prior to switching to M2 and it was one of the more consistent drivers I'd ever owned.

[Kmac]

Update: I’m not good enough for TS3.

Other than a couple bombs I’ve hit on the course I’m just not finding enough fairways. TS3 just isn’t forgiving enough on miss hits. Also, Kind of on the fence about the sound/feel which I was a huge fan of at the demo day. I think I may be going back to the trusty fairway finding M1

 

What did you come into the TS3 from? I went from 917D2 and I find the TS3 just as, if not more, forgiving.

 

Taylormade 16 M2 and 17 M1 460 for last couple of years. 10.5 head set to 9*. The M Series feel/performance across the face is much more consistent than the TS3. One thing I did notice and was a little concerned about during testing with TS3 was with the head color being such a dark gloss black finish the transition from the face to head isn't defined. This makes it hard to "see the face" - may have a subconscious affect on my confidence with it. Also, the flatter face of the TS just doesn't look as forgiving.

 

Came from 915 8.5* D2 prior to switching to M2 and it was one of the more consistent drivers I'd ever owned.

 

What's your TS3 setup? Loft, shaft etc.

[nelmodigi]

Just picked up my TS3 today and there is no way the TS3 even resembles the 917D3, the TS3 looks a lot like the 917 D2 and the TS2 looks even more squished. For all those reviewers who address the TS3 and say it is a beauty and the TS2 and say ugh......I don't see it, they both look nearly identical at address....I know all the reviewers say the TS3 is pear shaped but seriously, it is not even close to pear shaped.....the 975d was pear shaped, the 983 k was pear shaped, TS3 is a shallow face big headed pancake. Ill trackman it tmrw, im sure the club is good but its not a classic beauty.

 

Agree w/you 100%.

[Jagpilotohio]

Just picked up my TS3 today and there is no way the TS3 even resembles the 917D3, the TS3 looks a lot like the 917 D2 and the TS2 looks even more squished. For all those reviewers who address the TS3 and say it is a beauty and the TS2 and say ugh......I don't see it, they both look nearly identical at address....I know all the reviewers say the TS3 is pear shaped but seriously, it is not even close to pear shaped.....the 975d was pear shaped, the 983 k was pear shaped, TS3 is a shallow face big headed pancake. Ill trackman it tmrw, im sure the club is good but its not a classic beauty.

 

Agree w/you 100%.

 

Agree w/ both of you.

 

.....but I’m still getting one. ; )

[puresurfr]

i own both TS2 and TS3 and there is very little difference in appearance and sound and feel. The soles are different and i can draw the TS3 a bit more or at least i think i can. Spin is usually the same and depends on quality of strike. Im so confused that i don't even know which one to keep......

 

* good drivers, i wouldn't say they are longer than the other club makers but if you can get dialed in, its a forgiving club that is just as long as everybody else and the Evenflow White is great for a stock shaft.....Im pleased but not blown away,

[Big Ben]

I’m really enjoying the TS3 it’s extremely stable and straight for me. Just built a Oban Devotion HB 55 to give it a whirl we shall see. Coming from the Rouge Sub I’m surprised to read so many comments about the sound. It seems spot on to me. BB

[masegolf1978]

Just picked up my TS3 today and there is no way the TS3 even resembles the 917D3, the TS3 looks a lot like the 917 D2 and the TS2 looks even more squished. For all those reviewers who address the TS3 and say it is a beauty and the TS2 and say ugh......I don't see it, they both look nearly identical at address....I know all the reviewers say the TS3 is pear shaped but seriously, it is not even close to pear shaped.....the 975d was pear shaped, the 983 k was pear shaped, TS3 is a shallow face big headed pancake. Ill trackman it tmrw, im sure the club is good but its not a classic beauty.

 

Agree w/you 100%.

 

Having not seen one in person yet, I was afraid of this. I was hoping for a 905r with the newest tech, but sounds like a 915d2 with the newest tech.

[DuckHook02]

I'm not sure why people are complaining about the TS3 looks. I'm one of the more traditionalist on this website and I think the TS3 looks good.

[puresurfr]

I'm not sure why people are complaining about the TS3 looks. I'm one of the more traditionalist on this website and I think the TS3 looks good.

 

I have no problem with the looks either but honestly they are very very similar heads, In the past, Titleist would make one driver more shallow and the other deeper faced but now, they both appear identical.

 

 

[craz-e]

TS3 with the Even Flow has arrived, testing will commence tomorrow after work!

Maybe something to finally kick the 910 out of the bag, maybe!

[SAM_PGA]

Putting both heads next to each other... they are not the same or even close. The TS3 has more of a traditional shape albeit not as traditional as most, but compared to the TS2 it is the more traditional shape. The TS2 has much more of a round shape and a visual larger footprint even though both are 460cc now. The biggest noticeable difference to my eye is the bulge and roll of the faces... more traditional face shape on the TS3 and a much more "flatter" face on the TS2. The less b&r on the TS2 is a purposeful design to match up with the super deep CG.

[Les Strokes]

Tested the TS3 again yesterday. I got completely different results on the GC2. Scratching my head. I dont trust these monitors

[stk123]

 

Awesome to hear. Here's tips on how to adjust the Titleist drivers... for a right handed golfer.

 

CG weight... use it to control CG for your misses on the face, not to control flight. If you have tendencies to miss in the heel place the weight on draw. If you have tendencies to miss in the toe place the weight on fade. DO NOT USE THE WEIGHT TO CONTROL FACE ANGLE its simply a small change in CG to help your tendencies. If you play "army golf" on your contact leave the CG weight on neutral. THE CG WEIGHT IS THE MOST MISUNDERSTOOD PIECE OF THE PUZZLE!!! Use it to control your face mishit tendencies.

 

Sure Fit Hosel for Dynamic Face Rotation... If you want help releasing the face or increase face rotation then you want upright lie settings, start with A2 and then back off to fine tune. If you want the club to "not go left" or place a tendency to go right then you want to flatten the lie, start with B1. Both these setting are standard loft.

 

Sure Fit Hosel for Spin Control... If you need more spin start with A4, less spin place on D1. Remember adjusting loft does close/open the face respectively but only statically. To actually play that loft you must rotate the face to a square position at address and more importantly hit the ball with a square face angle!

 

I used the CG weight and placed it in "fade" to prevent from losing the ball left, and not because I tend to miss towards the toe. Isn't this why it is called "fade" setting? I feel like moving the weight towards the toe is equivalent to adding hotmelt towards the toe. That center of gravity shift, albeit small, still helps me hit a fade and not lose the ball left. As I play a draw with all other clubs in my bag, I like to fade my driver. And the weight towards the toe does help.

[puresurfr]

Putting both heads next to each other... they are not the same or even close. The TS3 has more of a traditional shape albeit not as traditional as most, but compared to the TS2 it is the more traditional shape. The TS2 has much more of a round shape and a visual larger footprint even though both are 460cc now. The biggest noticeable difference to my eye is the bulge and roll of the faces... more traditional face shape on the TS3 and a much more "flatter" face on the TS2. The less b&r on the TS2 is a purposeful design to match up with the super deep CG.

 

Yeah ...I checked again and I really don't see the difference in head design or face bulge, but some people have a more discerning eye for these things....

 

 

 

 

* Upon closer inspection i do see the difference in head shape but not so much in face bulge

[MattyO1984]

Putting both heads next to each other... they are not the same or even close. The TS3 has more of a traditional shape albeit not as traditional as most, but compared to the TS2 it is the more traditional shape. The TS2 has much more of a round shape and a visual larger footprint even though both are 460cc now. The biggest noticeable difference to my eye is the bulge and roll of the faces... more traditional face shape on the TS3 and a much more "flatter" face on the TS2. The less b&r on the TS2 is a purposeful design to match up with the super deep CG.

 

Agree with you on this Sam, there head shape between the TS2 and TS3 is completely different. I was shocked, not in a good way or a bad way, at how flat the face of the TS2 was. The head width of the TS2 is also much longer than the TS3 in a real noticeable way.

[caniac6]

I was just fit for the TS3. I am currently playing a Ping G20, and hadn't seen any significant difference while testing various drivers the last few years, until now. I tried the TS2, and I hit it just a bit longer, but the TS3 was only a few yards shorter, but much straighter. Can't wait to get it on the course.

[dwboston]

Putting both heads next to each other... they are not the same or even close. The TS3 has more of a traditional shape albeit not as traditional as most, but compared to the TS2 it is the more traditional shape. The TS2 has much more of a round shape and a visual larger footprint even though both are 460cc now. The biggest noticeable difference to my eye is the bulge and roll of the faces... more traditional face shape on the TS3 and a much more "flatter" face on the TS2. The less b&r on the TS2 is a purposeful design to match up with the super deep CG.

 

Agree with you on this Sam, there head shape between the TS2 and TS3 is completely different. I was shocked, not in a good way or a bad way, at how flat the face of the TS2 was. The head width of the TS2 is also much longer than the TS3 in a real noticeable way.

 

Agreed on the head shape - they look noticeably different to me. The leading edge/face appeared really straight to me on both models - it was definitely a different look for a Titleist driver and took some getting used to. I had better results with the TS2 - the TS3 was too low spin for my swing. I saw higher ball speeds and carry distance with the TS2 vs. my 917 D2, but my swing wasn't great the day I tried them out and my contact was all over the face. I want to try it again outside in the spring before making up my mind.

[buu]

Does anyone know where to get the TS2 weights?

[SAM_PGA]

Awesome to hear. Here's tips on how to adjust the Titleist drivers... for a right handed golfer.

 

CG weight... use it to control CG for your misses on the face, not to control flight. If you have tendencies to miss in the heel place the weight on draw. If you have tendencies to miss in the toe place the weight on fade. DO NOT USE THE WEIGHT TO CONTROL FACE ANGLE its simply a small change in CG to help your tendencies. If you play "army golf" on your contact leave the CG weight on neutral. THE CG WEIGHT IS THE MOST MISUNDERSTOOD PIECE OF THE PUZZLE!!! Use it to control your face mishit tendencies.

 

Sure Fit Hosel for Dynamic Face Rotation... If you want help releasing the face or increase face rotation then you want upright lie settings, start with A2 and then back off to fine tune. If you want the club to "not go left" or place a tendency to go right then you want to flatten the lie, start with B1. Both these setting are standard loft.

 

Sure Fit Hosel for Spin Control... If you need more spin start with A4, less spin place on D1. Remember adjusting loft does close/open the face respectively but only statically. To actually play that loft you must rotate the face to a square position at address and more importantly hit the ball with a square face angle!

 

I used the CG weight and placed it in "fade" to prevent from losing the ball left, and not because I tend to miss towards the toe. Isn't this why it is called "fade" setting? I feel like moving the weight towards the toe is equivalent to adding hotmelt towards the toe. That center of gravity shift, albeit small, still helps me hit a fade and not lose the ball left. As I play a draw with all other clubs in my bag, I like to fade my driver. And the weight towards the toe does help.

 

All manufacturers are at fault for using the terms "draw" or "fade" when manipulating CG. What it does is, #1 give a player the ability to direct their mishits to be more inline with the CG yielding higher ballspeeds/consistency, and #2 when changing the CG to draw or fade, you are actually changing the effective gear effect. When you place your CG on "fade" you introduce a left to right flight because of the CG being outside the centered strike which contributes the the fade gear effect for a RH golfer. Make sense?

[stk123]

Awesome to hear. Here's tips on how to adjust the Titleist drivers... for a right handed golfer.

 

CG weight... use it to control CG for your misses on the face, not to control flight. If you have tendencies to miss in the heel place the weight on draw. If you have tendencies to miss in the toe place the weight on fade. DO NOT USE THE WEIGHT TO CONTROL FACE ANGLE its simply a small change in CG to help your tendencies. If you play "army golf" on your contact leave the CG weight on neutral. THE CG WEIGHT IS THE MOST MISUNDERSTOOD PIECE OF THE PUZZLE!!! Use it to control your face mishit tendencies.

 

Sure Fit Hosel for Dynamic Face Rotation... If you want help releasing the face or increase face rotation then you want upright lie settings, start with A2 and then back off to fine tune. If you want the club to "not go left" or place a tendency to go right then you want to flatten the lie, start with B1. Both these setting are standard loft.

 

Sure Fit Hosel for Spin Control... If you need more spin start with A4, less spin place on D1. Remember adjusting loft does close/open the face respectively but only statically. To actually play that loft you must rotate the face to a square position at address and more importantly hit the ball with a square face angle!

 

I used the CG weight and placed it in "fade" to prevent from losing the ball left, and not because I tend to miss towards the toe. Isn't this why it is called "fade" setting? I feel like moving the weight towards the toe is equivalent to adding hotmelt towards the toe. That center of gravity shift, albeit small, still helps me hit a fade and not lose the ball left. As I play a draw with all other clubs in my bag, I like to fade my driver. And the weight towards the toe does help.

 

All manufacturers are at fault for using the terms "draw" or "fade" when manipulating CG. What it does is, #1 give a player the ability to direct their mishits to be more inline with the CG yielding higher ballspeeds/consistency, and #2 when changing the CG to draw or fade, you are actually changing the effective gear effect. When you place your CG on "fade" you introduce a left to right flight because of the CG being outside the centered strike which contributes the the fade gear effect for a RH golfer. Make sense?

 

Makes sense. Question, assuming I hit the sweet spot often and my misses are equally off toe as they are off heal, do you recommend keeping the weight in the neutral or "fade" position? My goal is to eliminate misses left, i.e. feel like I can turn the club over, but never hook it and at best hit it straight or slight fade. Sounds like keeping it in "fade" position will cause slight distance loss if I hit it in the middle of the clubface, or is that loss so minimal that it is not worth talking about?

 

Thanks for your insights on this topic.