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Handicap to play blades?


golfinguru11

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> @rt_charger said:

> Just to thread jack a little. An interestimg concept that I've come up with and feel I've experienced is that blades are easier to control because there is inevitably less weight in the head (vs GI's because of the size), therefore the COG of the entire club is closer to the hands, meaning easier to feel where the head is and more control.

 

For me it's about the size of a club head.I believe the larger the head, the more challenging it is to square at impact.

If everyone agrees that an 800CC driver head or an iron head three times the size of today's popular irons would be too large to swing/square at impact, then the debate becomes "what size is too large'?

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> @rt_charger said:

> Just to thread jack a little. An interestimg concept that I've come up with and feel I've experienced is that blades are easier to control because there is inevitably less weight in the head (vs GI's because of the size), therefore the COG of the entire club is closer to the hands, meaning easier to feel where the head is and more control.

 

Less relative weight in the head makes it harder to control and feel where the head is, not easier.

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... Without getting into the benefits of a players CB, it is just so disingenuous to compare MB's to "shovels". Large heads with wide soles that are hard to square or have poor turf interaction. I will say however, if Zach Johnson can hit AP1's, anybody can hit AP1's. But I digress, my point is if you are defending your choice of playing MB's, which of course is completely unnecessary, do not compare them to SGI's. Compare them to players irons like P760's T100's, Apex Pro's or Z 785's that have similar head size and turf interaction.

 

... Again, comparisons are unnecessary and play what you want but repeating myself ... don't p!ss on my leg and tell me it's raining. You like Apex MB's better than Apex Pro's or even Apex that's fair enough, but nobody is trying to decide between playing MB's or Rogue X or Big Bertha irons.

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Handicap is not the metric for playing blades. I have a buddy who is a 16 that hits his blades beautifully, but he cannot putt or chip to save his life. I also played with a scratch golfer who played some sort of Ping irons that looked like a shovel (G 400 maybe? Not positive on that) and a regular flex driver. Dude couldn't miss a putt within 10 feet it felt like, and if he was anywhere within 100 yards it felt like he was going to get up and down every time.

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> @Bubbtubbs said:

> I'd say my only personal requirement would be that of you can't properly hit and elevate a bladed 3 iron, you probably shouldn't be playing blades.

>

> But I'm an **** and you shouldn't listen to me. Play what you want to!

 

Most sets don't even come with 3 irons any more.

The average player can't hit and elevate ANY 3 iron, so does that mean they shouldn't golf?

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Consider this: playing an iron with a larger hitting surface (GI iron or CB) actually presents the golfer with more area in which to mishit the ball. More opportunity to mis-hit = harder to hit pure. Therefore one can argue that hitting the MB blade with a smaller hitting area (face) is actually easier to pure/hit well than its larger GI/CB counterpart because it presents less space/opportunity to mis-hit.

It's kinda like those motorists who accelerate/speed up to a red light at an intersection up ahead. Those 'speed up to the red light' folks, will actually end up waiting/stopped for a longer period of time at said red light (because they get to the red light earlier), than those drivers who merely coast/ease there way up to the red light intersection.

Listen. Iron forgiveness (GI vs CB vs MB) is a myth. always has been. Play a blade. You'll be amazed how nicely they cut through the rough. You'll be amazed at how nice it is to chip and pitch with the smaller head. A toe miss on an MB Blade ... is/will be a toe miss on a GI/CB. It's just as easy to miss-hit a GI shovel ... as it is to miss-hit an MB blade.

Love this topic when it comes up every 5 weeks. Love it.

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> @801 said:

> Consider this: playing an iron with a larger hitting surface (GI iron or CB) actually presents the golfer with more area in which to mishit the ball. More opportunity to mis-hit = harder to hit pure. Therefore one can argue that hitting the MB blade with a smaller hitting area (face) is actually easier to pure/hit well than its larger GI/CB counterpart because it presents less space/opportunity to mis-hit.

 

 

I have been saying this forever as well, visually our brains will get to the center easier on a blade, just because there is less space to focus on for the brain/eyes. Imagine this, if you were given a hockey stick (HUGE) and you tried to hit the center of the hockey stick, 99.9% of the population will ever hit the center of that huge stick, now give them something much much smaller, very similar to the size of the golf ball and now the brain can process this much easier. Its just logic/physics, not too complicated but many fail to understand this basic concept. Thats why so many people find blades so much "easier" to hit, its not they are actually more forgiving (of course they are not), its just the smaller size makes the eye/brain coordination MUCH easier than with a larger head.

 

 

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> @Nard_S said:

 

> False news? I responded to someone asking if anyone found "smaller is better". Ping did. Miura did too. The most revered MB of last ten years has to be the 1957 Baby Blade. It's the size.

>

> Nowhere did I say a 20 cap should play them, but I do not believe you need to meet some insane criteria for playing them either.

 

Yes, some OEMs went to smaller heads but they were not targeting average Joe golfer. I believe smaller is better too, but only for grooved swing mechanics. From long to short irons, heal to toe, Titleist new 620 CB & MB's heads, which I have, become progressively smaller, which I truly like. They resemble and feel like precision tools. However, average Joe's lack of skill at replicating swing mechanics suggests OEM's were on the right path when introducing larger super game improvement CB heads.

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> @Ger21 said:

> > @Bubbtubbs said:

> > I'd say my only personal requirement would be that of you can't properly hit and elevate a bladed 3 iron, you probably shouldn't be playing blades.

> >

> > But I'm an **** and you shouldn't listen to me. Play what you want to!

>

> Most sets don't even come with 3 irons any more.

> The average player can't hit and elevate ANY 3 iron, so does that mean they shouldn't golf?

 

If you want an honest answer, I'll just direct you back to my admission that I'm an ***hole and let the implications speak for themselves.

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> @herbert7890 said:

> > @801 said:

> > Consider this: playing an iron with a larger hitting surface (GI iron or CB) actually presents the golfer with more area in which to mishit the ball. More opportunity to mis-hit = harder to hit pure. Therefore one can argue that hitting the MB blade with a smaller hitting area (face) is actually easier to pure/hit well than its larger GI/CB counterpart because it presents less space/opportunity to mis-hit.

>

>

> I have been saying this forever as well, visually our brains will get to the center easier on a blade, just because there is less space to focus on for the brain/eyes. Imagine this, if you were given a hockey stick (HUGE) and you tried to hit the center of the hockey stick, 99.9% of the population will ever hit the center of that huge stick, now give them something much much smaller, very similar to the size of the golf ball and now the brain can process this much easier. Its just logic/physics, not too complicated but many fail to understand this basic concept. Thats why so many people find blades so much "easier" to hit, its not they are actually more forgiving (of course they are not), its just the smaller size makes the eye/brain coordination MUCH easier than with a larger head.

>

>

 

Thank you both! I have cavity back irons at home and smaller blades at the lake home. My index is 10-11 range. I score in the same range with both sets of clubs. Consistent practice would probably be the only way to improve my game but I'm just not into that!

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> @Ger21 said:

> > @Bubbtubbs said:

> > I'd say my only personal requirement would be that of you can't properly hit and elevate a bladed 3 iron, you probably shouldn't be playing blades.

> >

> > But I'm an **** and you shouldn't listen to me. Play what you want to!

>

> Most sets don't even come with 3 irons any more.

> The average player can't hit and elevate ANY 3 iron, so does that mean they shouldn't golf?

 

The baby woke up and I put my phone on my pocket and now I can't edit, so I wanted to clarify my last reply

 

Having a 3i in your bag and being able to use a 3i are two different beasts. Lots of players go 4i to driving iron, hybrid, 5w or something else because of gapping or how rarely they find they pull the club. Besides, a bladed 3 is basically a 4 on most sets.

 

Also, taking a statement I specifically applied to bladed irons and applying it to all golf clubs is a leap.

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> @801 said:

> Consider this: playing an iron with a larger hitting surface (GI iron or CB) actually presents the golfer with more area in which to mishit the ball. More opportunity to mis-hit = harder to hit pure. Therefore one can argue that hitting the MB blade with a smaller hitting area (face) is actually easier to pure/hit well than its larger GI/CB counterpart because it presents less space/opportunity to mis-hit.

> It's kinda like those motorists who accelerate/speed up to a red light at an intersection up ahead. Those 'speed up to the red light' folks, will actually end up waiting/stopped for a longer period of time at said red light (because they get to the red light earlier), than those drivers who merely coast/ease there way up to the red light intersection.

> Listen. Iron forgiveness (GI vs CB vs MB) is a myth. always has been. Play a blade. You'll be amazed how nicely they cut through the rough. You'll be amazed at how nice it is to chip and pitch with the smaller head. A toe miss on an MB Blade ... is/will be a toe miss on a GI/CB. It's just as easy to miss-hit a GI shovel ... as it is to miss-hit an MB blade.

> Love this topic when it comes up every 5 weeks. Love it.

 

You are aware that the sweet spot on those MB's are miniscule much smaller compared to the sweet spot on a GI shovel. On a blade it might be pea or dime sized, on a GI shovel it is a quarter. There is an increased margin for error.

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personal opinion here.. not necessarily a handicap but more so ball striking ability. i think you have to look at it another way.. how many times a round does playing not a blade HURT you. if those are the conversations you are having you are ready to play a blade and BENEFIT from it. how often do you have to shape a ball around a tree to get you 50 yards closer to the hole or on the green to save you a stroke. and do you have the ability to hit that shot. how often do you hit a pure 6 iron out of the rough that knuckles and flies the green 20 yards. again do you have that shot. how often are you pinched under a tree and have to a stinger 180 yards up the fairway that you can't keep down because you are hitting a more forgiving club. notice the pattern.. do you have that shot. are you hitting the ball pure enough every time to notice that you hit the ball half a dime high, the ball finds the 'hot spot' and knuckles and flies the green and hurts you. do you hit the ball straight enough that you would rather leave the ball 10 yards short of the green but closer to the line of target over a ball thats pin high but 10 yards wayward. and ill admit that a CB to an MB probably isn't noticeably different to an amateur trying to hit SHOTS.

other option. do you like the look? are you happy enough with where the ball ends up for the swing you think you made? if the answer is yes. HIT EM!

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> @herbert7890 said:

Thats why so many people find blades so much "easier" to hit, its not they are actually more forgiving (of course they are not), its just the smaller size makes the eye/brain coordination MUCH easier than with a larger head.

 

What you've written about eye/brain coordination may be true, but I also believe that the physics of squaring at impact a relatively small head may be easier than squaring an over size head, especially from sloped or other less than ideal lies.

>

>

 

 

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> @chippa13 said:

 

> You are aware that the sweet spot on those MB's are miniscule much smaller compared to the sweet spot on a GI shovel. On a blade it might be pea or dime sized, on a GI shovel it is a quarter. There is an increased margin for error.

 

Very true. Contrary to what someone else wrote blades were not at all easy for me to hit and still are not. As you noted the sweet spot is very small (the size of a dime) and since blades are unforgiving there is, as you also noted, a greater chance of error. 100% of the time if that dime-sized sweet spot is missed you won't get the shot you want. And you can feel it in the hands. It's unmistakable.

 

I know when I'm standing on the tee of a 175 yard par three that I have to hit my iron perfectly to put it on the green. I went to blades mainly for the increased difficulty. I love challenges that make me better myself in some way. I'm just wired this way.

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> @jamieholo said:

> personal opinion here.. not necessarily a handicap but more so ball striking ability. i think you have to look at it another way.. how many times a round does playing not a blade HURT you. if those are the conversations you are having you are ready to play a blade and BENEFIT from it. how often do you have to shape a ball around a tree to get you 50 yards closer to the hole or on the green to save you a stroke. and do you have the ability to hit that shot. how often do you hit a pure 6 iron out of the rough that knuckles and flies the green 20 yards. again do you have that shot. how often are you pinched under a tree and have to a stinger 180 yards up the fairway that you can't keep down because you are hitting a more forgiving club. notice the pattern.. do you have that shot. are you hitting the ball pure enough every time to notice that you hit the ball half a dime high, the ball finds the 'hot spot' and knuckles and flies the green and hurts you. do you hit the ball straight enough that you would rather leave the ball 10 yards short of the green but closer to the line of target over a ball thats pin high but 10 yards wayward. and ill admit that a CB to an MB probably isn't noticeably different to an amateur trying to hit SHOTS.

> other option. do you like the look? are you happy enough with where the ball ends up for the swing you think you made? if the answer is yes. HIT EM!

 

Let me add to this. All of the shots you mentioned can be made by both types of the clubs in the hands of good players, but many of them are very low percentage shots for even the best players. I never take low percentage shots because in my case they usually worsen the problem and end up costing more strokes than putting the ball back in play with a high percentage shot. If you're a pro trying to earn a living, it's a different calculation.

 

I totally get your point. I benefit from blades because I make better golf shots and score better with them. It's that simple. I probably make better golf shots with them because learning to hit them improved my game quite a bit. There's no mystery there. But for me it took LOT of work that needs constant reinforcement.

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Play blades if you want. Pepperturbo has said it pretty well within this thread. There's no HCP requirement. All that matters is that ****you**** want to play blades for whatever reason.

 

I played blades when I was down around a 19 HCP. I was playing a lot and was able to score a set that I wanted for fairly cheap. I found they had no real impact on my scoring overall. A guy, single digit index, in the men's league looked in my bag one night and told me I shouldn't play them because Tiger couldn't even hit 'em... Pure BS.

 

The reason I played the blades was for feedback. I knew when I mishit the ball, it's painfully obvious. Nothing like having your hands hurt after a swing... GI clubs mask mishits and make it more playable. I also read that blade mishits had more to do with distance versus left to right dispersion, while GI mishits didn't lose as much distance but varied more left to right. No idea if it's true, just what I came across. For me the blades were a game improvement set of clubs. They didn't let me get away with being sloppy, which as a 19 at the time I was.

 

I haven't played in years but may start up again and the blades may come with me on the course at some point even though I'll be a 30+ index.

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> @golfinguru11 said:

> I know lots of tour pros don’t play blades but all of them could **without losing much ground**. But for ams, at what handicap do you start losing strokes gaming blades?

>

> fyi-2 handicap who grew up on cbs, just now getting into blades

 

With all due respect, you answered your own question.

 

Good luck with the blades

 

And when you figure "how many" based on your own experience, be sure to come back and let us know.

 

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Sorry mate, the threshold is 1.9...you're just outside.. Keep dreaming though!

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> @Ger21 said:

> > @Bubbtubbs said:

> > I'd say my only personal requirement would be that of you can't properly hit and elevate a bladed 3 iron, you probably shouldn't be playing blades.

> >

> > But I'm an **** and you shouldn't listen to me. Play what you want to!

>

> Most sets don't even come with 3 irons any more.

> The average player can't hit and elevate ANY 3 iron, so does that mean they shouldn't golf?

 

"3" iron is just a number. My "4" iron is 21 degrees which is the same loft as my Ping Eye2 3 iron from 1987. A lot of people still have 4 irons in their bag

 

But i would agree with you that most players have trouble launching a 19-23 degree iron.

 

I don't do it particularly well and i am a 0 index. I could not play a blade 3-4 iron. I do launch my G410 4 iron pretty nicely though.

 

If you want to play a full blade, i'd definitely spend a lot of time with the lower lofted clubs and make sure you can at least somewhat hit them

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> @801 said:

> Consider this: playing an iron with a larger hitting surface (GI iron or CB) actually presents the golfer with more area in which to mishit the ball. More opportunity to mis-hit = harder to hit pure. Therefore one can argue that hitting the MB blade with a smaller hitting area (face) is actually easier to pure/hit well than its larger GI/CB counterpart because it presents less space/opportunity to mis-hit.

 

Haha, that's a creative way of looking at it but I don't think it works that way, LOL.

 

That's a bit like saying it's better to be poor because you have less chance of making a mistake in your investment portfolio.

 

 

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> @MelloYello said:

> > @801 said:

> > Consider this: playing an iron with a larger hitting surface (GI iron or CB) actually presents the golfer with more area in which to mishit the ball. More opportunity to mis-hit = harder to hit pure. Therefore one can argue that hitting the MB blade with a smaller hitting area (face) is actually easier to pure/hit well than its larger GI/CB counterpart because it presents less space/opportunity to mis-hit.

>

> Haha, that's a creative way of looking at it but I don't think it works that way, LOL.

>

> That's a bit like saying it's better to be poor because you have less chance of making a mistake in your investment portfolio.

>

>

 

Why don't tennis players use rackets the size of fly swatters?

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I have an expensive driver with an upgraded, aftermarket shaft in it. Occasionally I hit it out of bounds. Those sorts of mistakes are on me and I think they'd happen regardless of what I spent on the driver. I don't think the money I spent on the X-flex shaft or the performance is hurting me in any way.

 

However, if I played blades I probably would be held back a bit. Having played them a lot I can say I was never a great long-iron player and my mid irons were inconsistent, too. And in general, I probably spent too much time beating balls trying to time up a swing that wasn't great anyway.

 

For me, CBs are a more practical alternative. They feel better. They seem to perform a bit better. And at the end of the day I don't feel compelled to philosophize over whether or not I'm doing the right thing. That's a huge load off. Plus, I have more time to go practice my short game and my putting which has helped me lower my handicap.

 

So given that I'm as consistent as most people I see at the range, I would advise weekend golfers to stay away from blades. I would leave that level of club to the players who don't have regular day jobs.

 

Seems to me that if you're not on the range all day and you don't do golf as a job you probably aren't practicing enough to justify the the risk/reward of a true blade.

 

So yeah, there's definitely going to be a correlation with handicap because somebody who's doing golf as a job and practicing all day is going to be darn near scratch (or better). And someone who's a 15-handicap and works an office job all day isn't practicing enough to control their swing the way blades require. And if they are they're definitely only practicing their irons which is terrible in an of itself. You don't want to become Ranger Rick.

 

This year I reduced my handicap to the best it's ever been (7) and in TBH, a big reason that happened was because I reduced the amount of time I spent on the range hitting irons obsessing about my swing. Instead I spent time practicing my tee clubs (Dr & Fwy), my wedges and my putting. All of that's been a big help for me. So unless you happen to have the sweetest swing out there, I don't see how blades are helping you.

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> @balls_deep said:

> > @MelloYello said:

> > > @801 said:

> > > Consider this: playing an iron with a larger hitting surface (GI iron or CB) actually presents the golfer with more area in which to mishit the ball. More opportunity to mis-hit = harder to hit pure. Therefore one can argue that hitting the MB blade with a smaller hitting area (face) is actually easier to pure/hit well than its larger GI/CB counterpart because it presents less space/opportunity to mis-hit.

> >

> > Haha, that's a creative way of looking at it but I don't think it works that way, LOL.

> >

> > That's a bit like saying it's better to be poor because you have less chance of making a mistake in your investment portfolio.

> >

> >

>

> Why don't tennis players use rackets the size of fly swatters?

 

Hey, how did you like that Snell ball?

 

I just started reading about the Snell and Kirkland stuff this weekend. Do you think I could switch to the Snell from a ProV1x without noticing?

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> @MelloYello said:

> > @balls_deep said:

> > > @MelloYello said:

> > > > @801 said:

> > > > Consider this: playing an iron with a larger hitting surface (GI iron or CB) actually presents the golfer with more area in which to mishit the ball. More opportunity to mis-hit = harder to hit pure. Therefore one can argue that hitting the MB blade with a smaller hitting area (face) is actually easier to pure/hit well than its larger GI/CB counterpart because it presents less space/opportunity to mis-hit.

> > >

> > > Haha, that's a creative way of looking at it but I don't think it works that way, LOL.

> > >

> > > That's a bit like saying it's better to be poor because you have less chance of making a mistake in your investment portfolio.

> > >

> > >

> >

> > Why don't tennis players use rackets the size of fly swatters?

>

> Hey, how did you like that Snell ball?

>

> I just started reading about the Snell and Kirkland stuff this weekend. Do you think I could switch to the Snell from a ProV1x without noticing?

 

Yes the Snell is a great ball. The only thing for me is that I often buy mint used Pro V1x and they end up being cheaper so it's hard to justify the cost which is still quite high. I'd say they're a fantastic alternative. Currently testing the Tour B XS again as I like the feel off the putter better but they spin a fair bit more off irons.

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> @balls_deep said:

> > @MelloYello said:

> > > @balls_deep said:

> > > > @MelloYello said:

> > > > > @801 said:

> > > > > Consider this: playing an iron with a larger hitting surface (GI iron or CB) actually presents the golfer with more area in which to mishit the ball. More opportunity to mis-hit = harder to hit pure. Therefore one can argue that hitting the MB blade with a smaller hitting area (face) is actually easier to pure/hit well than its larger GI/CB counterpart because it presents less space/opportunity to mis-hit.

> > > >

> > > > Haha, that's a creative way of looking at it but I don't think it works that way, LOL.

> > > >

> > > > That's a bit like saying it's better to be poor because you have less chance of making a mistake in your investment portfolio.

> > > >

> > > >

> > >

> > > Why don't tennis players use rackets the size of fly swatters?

> >

> > Hey, how did you like that Snell ball?

> >

> > I just started reading about the Snell and Kirkland stuff this weekend. Do you think I could switch to the Snell from a ProV1x without noticing?

>

> Yes the Snell is a great ball. The only thing for me is that I often buy mint used Pro V1x and they end up being cheaper so it's hard to justify the cost which is still quite high. I'd say they're a fantastic alternative. Currently testing the Tour B XS again as I like the feel off the putter better but they spin a fair bit more off irons.

 

> @mschantz said:

> @MelloYello

> @ balls_deep

>

> I also buy used mint condition balls off eBay.

>

> FWIW I know nothing about Snell Balls. I was interested in Kirkland after reviewing the Spy report. Then I recently read there was a big problem with these balls and Costco was, I think, issuing refunds.

>

> I’m sticking with Titleist.

 

 

Yeah, I have no problems with ProV's outside of the price. I'm not going to pay $50+ per dozen. That just isn't happening.

 

So the choice for me is between buying used ProV's (which is a big gamble IMHO) or buying new from someone like Snell.

 

Last time I ordered 5 dozen used ProV's they were good but they were mostly all 3-4 years old and some were as old as 7-8 years which means they likely sat out in the environment for some time or maybe got recycled multiple times. From a performance standpoint, that has to undermine some aspect of their performance.

 

So I'm wondering if a new Snell might not be a better alternative to the usually path of buying used balls. I think I'm going to try them. I don't mind $30-ish a dozen if we're talking new balls.

TSR3 (Dr) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-6)
TSR2 (3w / 7w) (Graphite Design Tour AD IZ-7)

zU85 (4-6) (UST Recoil)
Z-Forged (7-P) (Nippon Modus3)

SM6 50.F / 56.F / 60.S
Maltby PTM-5CS

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> @MelloYello said:

> > @balls_deep said:

> > > @MelloYello said:

> > > > @balls_deep said:

> > > > > @MelloYello said:

> > > > > > @801 said:

> > > > > > Consider this: playing an iron with a larger hitting surface (GI iron or CB) actually presents the golfer with more area in which to mishit the ball. More opportunity to mis-hit = harder to hit pure. Therefore one can argue that hitting the MB blade with a smaller hitting area (face) is actually easier to pure/hit well than its larger GI/CB counterpart because it presents less space/opportunity to mis-hit.

> > > > >

> > > > > Haha, that's a creative way of looking at it but I don't think it works that way, LOL.

> > > > >

> > > > > That's a bit like saying it's better to be poor because you have less chance of making a mistake in your investment portfolio.

> > > > >

> > > > >

> > > >

> > > > Why don't tennis players use rackets the size of fly swatters?

> > >

> > > Hey, how did you like that Snell ball?

> > >

> > > I just started reading about the Snell and Kirkland stuff this weekend. Do you think I could switch to the Snell from a ProV1x without noticing?

> >

> > Yes the Snell is a great ball. The only thing for me is that I often buy mint used Pro V1x and they end up being cheaper so it's hard to justify the cost which is still quite high. I'd say they're a fantastic alternative. Currently testing the Tour B XS again as I like the feel off the putter better but they spin a fair bit more off irons.

>

> > @mschantz said:

> > @MelloYello

> > @ balls_deep

> >

> > I also buy used mint condition balls off eBay.

> >

> > FWIW I know nothing about Snell Balls. I was interested in Kirkland after reviewing the Spy report. Then I recently read there was a big problem with these balls and Costco was, I think, issuing refunds.

> >

> > I’m sticking with Titleist.

>

>

> Yeah, I have no problems with ProV's outside of the price. I'm not going to pay $50+ per dozen. That just isn't happening.

>

> So the choice for me is between buying used ProV's (which is a big gamble IMHO) or buying new from someone like Snell.

>

> Last time I ordered 5 dozen used ProV's they were good but they were mostly all 3-4 years old and some were as old as 7-8 years which means they likely sat out in the environment for some time or maybe got recycled multiple times. From a performance standpoint, that has to undermine some aspect of their performance.

>

> So I'm wondering if a new Snell might not be a better alternative to the usually path of buying used balls. I think I'm going to try them. I don't mind $30-ish a dozen if we're talking new balls.

 

I don’t think you give up an ounce with Snell honestly. That said, the Srixon Z and XV are fantastic and can usually be found at a great discount. Have you ever tried them?

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