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How much distance have you lost by going shorter driver length?


mizunotpz

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2 hours ago, Brenkj said:

Are there any good shaft manufacturers that design and build shafts in shorter lengths, or do they all produce the shafts at 45-plus inches, to then be cut down by fitters and/or players?     Would it make any difference (designed at 44 versus designed a 45 and cut down to 44)?

 

They are usually designed with the option to tip trim, if they are built to a shorter length with a heavier head.  Of course you don't have to, but then it will play softer in flex

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I just tip trimmed my driver shaft to a playing length of 43.5”. Lost no distance on well struck shots. Also hit a lot more well struck shots. Lots of variables in my case.

D| Titleist 975D 9.5* DG S300

3W| Titleist 980F 15* DG S300

5W| Titleist 975F 18.5* DG S300

3-P| MacGregor Muirfield 20th DG X100

SW| Maltby TSW 56* DG X100

LW| Maltby TSW 60* DG S300

P| Ping Anser

Ball| Maxfli Tour S Yellow

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On 2/27/2021 at 4:06 PM, Kid B said:

My advice is to get fit, especially if you're significantly changing up the length of a driver.  You won't have to worry about swingweight, where to trim the shaft, stiffness... any of it.

Also, be cautious about adding hot melt unless you know the details.

 

Several years ago I went to the GolfWorks school, and built a driver while there. It was a stock Maltby head with a then-new XCaliber XL 48 gram shaft. I wanted more control, so went with a 44" shaft vs. recommended 45.5".

 

The swingweight came in about C6. The heaviest Maltby head weight helped a little, but I ended up pumping quite a bit of hotmelt in through the hosel. Finally got it up to D3.

 

Anyway, took it home to test it. Driver hit the ball dead straight, but only about 200 yds. carry (less than my 3W at time). Years later I asked a troubleshooting question about this on GolfWRX. I was told that supertrims can mess up shaft balance, and random squirting of hotmelt can mess up head dynamics.

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What's In The Bag (As of April 2023, post-MAX change + new putter)

 

Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

Ball: 1. Srixon Q-Star Tour / 2. Calla SuperHot (Orange preferred)  ||  Bag: Sun Mountain Three 5 stand bag

    * MD4 54°/10 S-Grind replaced MD3 54°/12 W-Grind.

     Ψ  Backups:

  • Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced) + Evnroll Gravity Grip |
  • Slotline Inertial SL-583F w/ SuperStroke 2.MidSlim (50 gr. weight removed) |
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So my 3 wood is both heavier overall and a heavier swing weight. The weight kit alone won't bring it up to the 3w, but a shaft would. I am trying the weights first, then if I can score a shaft for sub $50, I might do that, too.

Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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As of yet I am still playing around with my driver length. I am a short guy and squat a little at address with a wide stance so my swing flattens out quite a bit. I don't want to lose distance but then again I see my speed is more dependent on technique than anything else. For example, I went to the range today and my best driver speed was 103 or so, 43.5" steel. However, that was also my average speed for my 5 wood at 41.5" and steel as well, and a personal best of 115 mph. I may end up with a 42.5" shaft which would hopefully get me near 110 on average.

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"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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I put the 55g shaft back in and I noticed a big difference. Still waiting on the weight kit, but I think a slightly heavier shaft at -1 might be the trick.

 

But I hit 2 drives today that were at least as far as I have hit before, so that would be no noticable drop in distance.

Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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Okay, one last update (I promise).    As a refresher, several days ago I cut my driver down a half inch to 44.5, and then used a couple of range sessions to adjust the head weight to where it felt good.    Another range session yesterday and HOLY CRAP!   The ball was flying straighter and longer, with a better trajectory, than I think it ever has for me.   I've been trying to work on my swing also, and I'm sure that has something to do with it, but I can't ignore the fact that I'm seeing this big an improvement just 4 or 5 days after adjust the driver length and weight.   Now when I play this weekend with my son (who consistently drives the ball 325), I'll at least be within shouting distance of him when we're setting up to take our second shots.

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Yesterday was a great day. I can honestly say I was hitting as long if not longer drives now. I put the R1 shaft back in the M3 (5g heavier) and what a difference. I hope my weights get here before the weekend, I can't wait to see if it gets better with a better swing weight.

 

So with 1" less, I am currently hitting the same distance with WAY better placement.

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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Checking back in here. So on my sim max I cut my driver down to 44. I have a Tensei raw orange 75tx on it with a gp mcc +4 with and extra wrap of tape. Using an online calculator (since I don't have a scale) it came out to c6 (approximately). Added 16 grams back to the head and the driver is a completely different club now! Consistent middle face contact. I feel really dumb I didn't go through the DIY driver fitting thread sooner. I've been playing my driver at a super low swing weight for a looong time and never really hit all that great. Crazy!

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So what is the swing weight with the added head weight?

 

I use my digital scale and the online calc as well. Mine is currently C6 with the 55g shaft.

Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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Nice.

 

I was really surprised by the difference the 5g shaft made. I have 2 9.5g weights coming. I will try 1 to start and that supposed to put me around D3. I am trying not to buy another shaft.

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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On 3/2/2021 at 2:58 PM, mmacdon3 said:

When you guys are referring to a 44.5" driver does that measurement include the driver head or is it just a measurement of the shaft itself? This has been confusing me because when I think of my stock driver as 45" I'm including the head in the measurement, but when I'm shopping for shafts on eBay I think a lot of the measurements are of the shaft itself

Thanks for bringing it up, as shaft length is different than clublength, although most refer to it as shaft length and really mean clublength.  Sorry, a pet peeve of mine.  Carry on🤠

Edited by ode
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19 minutes ago, Brenkj said:

Now that it looks like shortening my driver by a half inch seems to be a big success, should I also look into shortening my 3W and 5W by a half inch also?

 

That brings up a great point. I was encouraged to shorten my driver because of how well I tend to hit my 3w, especially off the deck. Then I read Tiger plays at 43.75 and figured a $40 shaft was worth the try.

 

As I noted earlier, my 3w measured E0, but I also noticed a difference from C4 to C6 (50g shaft vs 55g shaft). That's why I am excited to see what D3 is like.

 

So the only concern I would have about shortening a fairway is the swing weight change and if it would affect my currently not awful fairway swing.

Edited by lefthack

Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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I've played between 44" and 46" over the last 2 years. I was making my most consistent center face contact with a shorter driver so average distance was better. The longer drivers have yielded some of my longest drives but also the bigger misses. I'm currently at a stock 45.5" as was my previous driver and thinking of going back to to 44.5". My miss on the face is heel side which leads to a right miss. When I'm making center contact, I hit/play a bit of a draw. So aiming down the right, missing on the heel, and watching the ball start straight and tail off to the right is no fun. I think going shorter again should help me out. 

 

Question is whether to butt trim my hzrdus yellow 75 or pick up another shaft to shorten. For as stout as the yellow is it's smooth enough feeling and I hit it better than the black I had before it. I like the rogue white in my 4w (which I hit more consistantly; plays at stock 43.25") and really liked the tensei blue that was in my previous fairway. So I may pick up a blue.

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We're going on a Minimalist Adventure who knows were we'll end up:

"Full" 10-Club Bag currently looks like this:

Taylormade BRNR Mini Copper 13.5

Taylormade Sim Max 7w Mitsubishi Diamana F Limited 75S

Titleist 818H1 25* Fuji Atmos Black 9s

Callaway Mavrik Pro 7-PW Project X Rifle Tour Flighted 105 6.0

Vokey SM9 50.08F

Vokey SM9 56.10S

White Hot OG #1

Srixon Z Star/Chrome Soft X

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So I added 1 of the 9.5g weights and it measures D1. Adding the second pits it about D6. I am going to the range in the morning to see what's up. I am taking the other 9.5 with me and might try it while I'm there.

 

 

PXL_20210312_035107500.jpg

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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I switched the shafts on the fairways to take a half-inch off each one (I put the shaft from the 5W in the 3W, and from the 7W in the 5W).   I tried a slightly heavier head weight in each, and - just like with the driver - the ball started flying straighter and higher, with at least as much distance as before.   

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8 hours ago, lefthack said:

So I added 1 of the 9.5g weights and it measures D1. Adding the second pits it about D6. I am going to the range in the morning to see what's up. I am taking the other 9.5 with me and might try it while I'm there.

 

 

PXL_20210312_035107500.jpg


It's the holy weight trinity, be careful wielding that much power! 😆
 

7 hours ago, Brenkj said:

I switched the shafts on the fairways to take a half-inch off each one (I put the shaft from the 5W in the 3W, and from the 7W in the 5W).   I tried a slightly heavier head weight in each, and - just like with the driver - the ball started flying straighter and higher, with at least as much distance as before.   


Almost exactly what I do as well for the same reasons. 

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Titleist TSi3 9* Tensei AV White 65TX 2.0 // Taylormade SIM 10.5* Ventus TR Blue 6TX
Taylormade Stealth+ 16* Ventus Black 8x // Taylormade SIM Ti V2 16.5* Ventus TR Blue 7X
Callaway Apex UW 19* Ventus Black 8x // Srixon ZX Utility MKII 19* Nippon GOST Prototype Hybrid 10
Callaway X-Forged Single♦️  22* Nippon GOST Hybrid Tour X 
Bridgestone 
J40 DPC 4i-7i 24*- 35* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Bridgestone J40 CB 8i-PW 39*- 48* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0

Taylormade Milled Grind Raw 54* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Vokey SM6 58* Oil Can Low Bounce K-Grind Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Scotty Cameron Newport Tour Red Dot || Taylormade Spider X Navy Slant

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So of the 80ish balls I hit at the range, I shanked about a half dozen left over the fence. About a half dozen off the heel and toe, but the rest were pretty damn solid and playable. While still not as straight or consistent as I'd like, it's close. This was at D1 swing weight.

 

 

PXL_20210312_171352442.jpg

Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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Because I got bored, I added the second weight. It actually measured out to D8. I know D5 I'd supposed to be "the magic number" but see how it goes. 

 

Worst case I pull it back out tomorrow. 

 

<edit> swinging in the back yard, the head feels much more substantial.

Edited by lefthack
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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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So yeah, playing my usual 3 balls, I was hitting fairways when I got a good swing. 2 for 3 almost every drive. I am quite happy with those results and I can work with that. 

 

For fun I order the 5.5g weights and I will try swapping a 9.5 for a 5.5 to see if I can't get closer to D5.

Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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Changed to 44.5 or a hair over and I will never go back. Hit it straighter and further than before, likely due to more consistent center contact. My personal opinion is that if you aren't going to go past 45.5-46 to get the speed effect of a longer shaft, there's no reason not to go down to 44.5-44.75. At standard issue length, the distance you gain is far outweighed by what you may get with better center contact at a shorter length

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So I know it kinda looks crazy and it might not be forever, but see if it works for now. With the added 9.5g and 5g weights with the 55g shaft it's at 334.1g total weight and D4 swing weight. 

 

It seemed to do well last time out at D8 with 2 of the 9.5g weights. 

 

 

PXL_20210320_001812224.jpg

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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Ok, so the new shaft has made all the difference. The new shaft is almost 21g heavier and allowed me to remove all the extra weight from the head. With the heavier shaft cut down an inch with stock weights, it's D1 and felt really good. I still might order the 14g weights to replace the stock 11g but I will play it as is for now.

 

I can say I have not lost any yardage hitting 5 yards left of center. Very happy with today's results.

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Haywood 1 with Hzrdus Black RDX 70

Haywood 3W PXG 0211 5W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Haywood MB irons 3-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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  • 1 year later...
On 2/27/2021 at 10:02 PM, Pmookie said:

Yes. You have to add weight to the head, either by changing-out weights for heavier ones, adding hot melt, or even just lead tape. Definitely have to add weight!!!

Ok hotmelt sounds like welding or soldering on to the head. Is that a neccissity  or is a shortened shaft ok without added weight  and ok as is?  Is say 85% that shortened their driver shaft isn't adding weight

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39 minutes ago, sanzo said:

Ok hotmelt sounds like welding or soldering on to the head. Is that a neccissity  or is a shortened shaft ok without added weight  and ok as is?  Is say 85% that shortened their driver shaft isn't adding weight

 

Saying you "have to" add weight is not really true.    But how "ok" it is not to add weight is really going to be very dependent on the individual.

 

What's important for most is getting a good fit for head weight (or club MOI or swing weight).   It can be very important for some and less important for others.  Everyone will be different.  So many can do well without adding any weight, but not everyone.  For some it can be disastrous not to add weight.   And you never know which group you're going to be in until you try it.  So most really should try to adjust the head weight if they want to ensure the best performance.

 

But adjusting head weight to get the best fit is NOT just throwing on a bunch of weight on the head to "get the swing weight back to where it was before cutting down."   Or using those useless swing weight "rules of thumb."  That can potentially be just as disastrous as not adding any weight.     Anyone considering cutting down their driver never really was fit properly for length or swing weight so they are starting with a club that is known to be a bad fit.   There is no point trying to get back to something that you know is a bad fit.    Plus the swing weight concept doesn't handle larger length changes all that well.

 

So the only effective and reliable way to find if it's needed and what the right amount of weight might be - is to go to the range with some lead tape, get a bucket of balls and add it incrementally (~2 gm at a time) a dial it in by feel and by the results you get. 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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