NOW THIS !!! IS HOW A CLEVELAND CLASSIC SHOULD LOOK

[ROBOPTI]

Golfworks

[Marks23]

[quote name='ROBOPTI' timestamp='1375903291' post='7625928']
Golfworks
[/quote]

Robo, did you use the 290 or 310 head? Did you have to add weight to get it to 205 grams?

[ROBOPTI]

I used a 290 - which was a HEAVY T3 tour head. When I took it apart (before steel shaft) - it was already in the 205ish range ... so i didnt need to do anything

Also .. The 310 is just a last years 310 head with paint - ONLY the Classic 270 & 290 are TRULY constructed with the "classic" engineering. I never even bothered - and never will - to think about a 310

[Froth]

Not a Driver, but I recently went STEEL in my 3wood with a DG Lite X100 and loving every minute.

Has anyone considered putting Steel in a 3Deep? Would that make the universe implode because of straightness?

[chch3]

Speaking of weights, what would be the optimum weight for a head using an s300 shaft?

[bobcat]

[quote name='ROBOPTI' timestamp='1375912781' post='7627040']
I used a 290 - which was a HEAVY T3 tour head. When I took it apart (before steel shaft) - it was already in the 205ish range ... so i didnt need to do anything

Also .. The 310 is just a last years 310 head with paint - ONLY the Classic 270 & 290 are TRULY constructed with the "classic" engineering. I never even bothered - and never will - to think about a 310
[/quote]

I have both the Classic 290 and the Classic 310 Tour and found the latter easily 15-20 yards longer than the 290. It is a big mistake not to consider the 2012 Classic 310. The stock Miyazaki Kusala Black 61 is one of the best driver shafts ever made. Unfortunately I can't say the same for the C.Kua 43 that was the stock shaft in the 290. The 310 is designed for better players, hence it delivers lower spin and a more penetrating trajectory than the 290. I have now put a Miyazaki Kusala 61 shaft in my 290 as well, but it still isn't the equal of the Classic 310. Most people fell in love with the wrong Classic Driver model in my opinion. Do not confuse the Retail 290 with the one played on Tour by the Cleveland's Tour Staff. The Tour 290 has a higher COG, (like the Tour 310. Like many other I was initially seduced by the 290's headshape and bought it first, (a mistake), but when it comes to performance for a better player, I now know the Classic 310 is the right choice.

I think you have to have a real problem with accuracy to consider a steel shaft when graphite shafts like the Miyazaki Kusala Black exists. I find the Kusala Black is a great shaft for taking the left side out of play which used to be my hard swing miss. I can now hit long gentle fades with my Classic 310 all day.

If you are seriously considering steel in a driver these days, it is likely you just haven't yet found the right graphite shaft for your swing! Other than just enjoying a very cheap shaft experiment, what is the point of going back to steel shafts for drivers. Try stiff tipped premium graphite shaft before going to such an extreme. Plenty of Fitters out there avaialbe to help you out!

[Ri_Redneck]

[quote name='bobcat' timestamp='1375917280' post='7627530']
[quote name='ROBOPTI' timestamp='1375912781' post='7627040']
I used a 290 - which was a HEAVY T3 tour head. When I took it apart (before steel shaft) - it was already in the 205ish range ... so i didnt need to do anything

Also .. The 310 is just a last years 310 head with paint - ONLY the Classic 270 & 290 are TRULY constructed with the "classic" engineering. I never even bothered - and never will - to think about a 310
[/quote]

I have both the Classic 290 and the Classic 310 Tour and found the latter easily 15-20 yards longer than the 290. It is a big mistake not to consider the 2012 Classic 310. The stock Miyazaki Kusala Black 61 is one of the best driver shafts ever made. Unfortunately I can't say the same for the C.Kua 43 that was the stock shaft in the 290. The 310 is designed for better players, hence it delivers lower spin and a more penetrating trajectory than the 290. I have now put a Miyazaki Kusala 61 shaft in my 290 as well, but it still isn't the equal of the Classic 310. Most people fell in love with the wrong Classic Driver model in my opinion. Do not confuse the Retail 290 with the one played on Tour by the Cleveland's Tour Staff. The Tour 290 has a higher COG, (like the Tour 310. Like many other I was initially seduced by the 290's headshape and bought it first, (a mistake), but when it comes to performance for a better player, I now know the Classic 310 is the right choice.

I think you have to have a real problem with accuracy to consider a steel shaft when graphite shafts like the Miyazaki Kusala Black exists. I find the Kusala Black is a great shaft for taking the left side out of play which used to be my hard swing miss. I can now hit long gentle fades with my Classic 310 all day.

If you are seriously considering steel in a driver these days, it is likely you just haven't yet found the right graphite shaft for your swing! Other than just enjoying a very cheap shaft experiment, what is the point of going back to steel shafts for drivers. Try stiff tipped premium graphite shaft before going to such an extreme. Plenty of Fitters out there avaialbe to help you out!
[/quote]

Oh, I don't know. Maybe it's the obscene costs?

I find it obsurd that the premium shafts of a couple of years ago can be had for change these days (except for maybe Diamanas). There's a good chance one can get a pristine $400 MSRP Kyoshi White for $100 by 2015! I honestly think golfers have lost perspective with the drivers these days. Heads the size of cantaloupes, extra long / extra light and the lie angle of a 6i.

I brought a couple of my persimmons out at a yearly golf outing last week and we all hit them pretty well. Damn beautiful clubs too.

BT

[kess13]

I have steel on my Adams and like it but my classic 290 has the kua 43 stiff and knocks it 285-300 consistently dead straight unless I mess up. So I don't feel too bad about the $75 I dropped on it...

[bobcat]

[quote name='Ri_Redneck' timestamp='1375919109' post='7627754']
[quote name='bobcat' timestamp='1375917280' post='7627530']
[quote name='ROBOPTI' timestamp='1375912781' post='7627040']
I used a 290 - which was a HEAVY T3 tour head. When I took it apart (before steel shaft) - it was already in the 205ish range ... so i didnt need to do anything

Also .. The 310 is just a last years 310 head with paint - ONLY the Classic 270 & 290 are TRULY constructed with the "classic" engineering. I never even bothered - and never will - to think about a 310
[/quote]

I have both the Classic 290 and the Classic 310 Tour and found the latter easily 15-20 yards longer than the 290. It is a big mistake not to consider the 2012 Classic 310. The stock Miyazaki Kusala Black 61 is one of the best driver shafts ever made. Unfortunately I can't say the same for the C.Kua 43 that was the stock shaft in the 290. The 310 is designed for better players, hence it delivers lower spin and a more penetrating trajectory than the 290. I have now put a Miyazaki Kusala 61 shaft in my 290 as well, but it still isn't the equal of the Classic 310. Most people fell in love with the wrong Classic Driver model in my opinion. Do not confuse the Retail 290 with the one played on Tour by the Cleveland's Tour Staff. The Tour 290 has a higher COG, (like the Tour 310. Like many other I was initially seduced by the 290's headshape and bought it first, (a mistake), but when it comes to performance for a better player, I now know the Classic 310 is the right choice.

I think you have to have a real problem with accuracy to consider a steel shaft when graphite shafts like the Miyazaki Kusala Black exists. I find the Kusala Black is a great shaft for taking the left side out of play which used to be my hard swing miss. I can now hit long gentle fades with my Classic 310 all day.

If you are seriously considering steel in a driver these days, it is likely you just haven't yet found the right graphite shaft for your swing! Other than just enjoying a very cheap shaft experiment, what is the point of going back to steel shafts for drivers. Try stiff tipped premium graphite shaft before going to such an extreme. Plenty of Fitters out there avaialbe to help you out!
[/quote]

Oh, I don't know. Maybe it's the obscene costs?

I find it obsurd that the premium shafts of a couple of years ago can be had for change these days (except for maybe Diamanas). There's a good chance one can get a pristine $400 MSRP Kyoshi White for $100 by 2015! I honestly think golfers have lost perspective with the drivers these days. Heads the size of cantaloupes, extra long / extra light and the lie angle of a 6i.

I brought a couple of my persimmons out at a yearly golf outing last week and we all hit them pretty well. Damn beautiful clubs too.

BT
[/quote]

Good show! If someone is going to experiment with steel shafts in a driver, why not go with a persimmon driver for a real retro look and some enjoyable nostalgia. I too love the look of the old clubs, but there is really no comparison in performance with today's clubs.

[CBRADGO]

I got mine from Swing Science through my LGS but you can order it off of their website. I just saved shipping by having my club builder order it with a few other shafts. I tipped mine 2 1/2" on an X100 and it's still pretty soft, probably going to go another 3/4" and re-stick it. It was a little higher trajectory but dispersion was good and distance was very close to my normal driver. It's going to be a fun project!

[bullrambler]

An update here...! I mentioned before that I found a Titleist 983K 9.5* loft with a DG-S300 in it. Believe it or not the finished length with the grip on is only 42 1/4 inches long and it's a bore through. The DGS-300 is 9 inches from the bottom of the bore through to the first step. I don't know who made it, and I'm not sure how the flex finishes off with this measurement. I am killing this lil driver.The grip is a golf pride [size=4][color=#222657]NEW DECADE® MULTICOMPOUND black & Red @ 46.5 grams - regular 600 core.[/color][/size]

I still have two projects to do and one is a 983K 7.5* and I will have a DGS-300 installed and have the first bend point set at (9 inches from the bottom of the bore to the first step) and this will be in the same place as the 982K 9.5*. But, this time I will have the overall length about 1 inch longer at 43 1/4. I am anxious to compare the difference between the same head - in different lofts 9.5* vs 7.5*; and slightly different lengths. If the lower loft of the 7.5* and 1 inch longer shaft add any difference in distance, and maintain the accuracy. I might have to sign up for a tournament.

Here's another kicker... I'm now hitting my irons longer by one club. And I haven't changed a thing with them.

I also have obtained a Cleveland Classic 290 and would really like to throw a DGX 100 in it at a finished length of 43 1/2 max. I won't know the weight of the head is till it's removed from the graphite shaft. I'm a little concerned about it being lighter then 205 grams and may need to ask for a hot melt to bring the weight of the head up.

I'm attending a wedding this weekend so, I hope to have the projects done by next weekend. I'll let you's know how it turns out.

[chch3]

I installed a s300 in a r11 tip last night. Finished length is a tad over 44. Took it to the range tonight to test it out. I wasn't hitting that well at first, then i choked down an inch. And holy crap I am bombing it. My miss is a slice and no matter how hard I swung, I could hit it to the right. I am actually hitting draws now. I never hit draws. I am going to cut it down another 3/4 an inch and play it.

[MrMorganUSC]

I gave the steel several shot over the past 3 weeks. Bought 3 x100s from golf works and bought a Mizuno MP-650 to try it out in. Tried it first with no tipping at 43.5 inches......hmmmm no. Launched it wayyyyy high (8.5* head). Then tried it tipped 1.25 inches......launched it lower but didn't feel right. After that I switched the steel out with a AXE Excaliber T6+.....much better.

Then I found the holy grail.....a Tour Issue R510tp 7.5* at a local shot.....$37 later it is in my possession. I thought what a great head to put a steel shaft in. Put that 1.25 tipped shaft back in there......ehhhhh. Pulled the stell out of it and put the T6+ in it......WOW. Had my best driving day ever (11/14) and it was LONG. I am so happy with this driver. The first ball I ever hit with it on the range (before this round) was an absolute bomb.....such a great sound and feel. The guy beside me goes, "damn, you always hit that thing like that? What kind of driver is that?".....I said....."A 10 year old one."

So, with that said, I still have the MP650 head, it is actually on BST right now. The steel shafts just aren't working for me. Like the feel of graphite better. I even tried it in a 3 wood.....I prefer the Epic t90x. The steel wasn't any more accurate than the epic and I like the feel of graphite better.

So if anyone want to try this steel expirement, I have a 8.5* MP650 head, which just happens to weight 205 grams stock, with 3 different steel shafts, untipped @43.5, tipped 1.25 @ 43.5 and a fresh uncut x100. I will install any of them in that head and/or cut to your length for $130 shipped.

[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/892202-clothes-masters-bobby-jones-fj-drivers-mp-650-and-r7-425-wwhiteboard-and-3-wood-mp-650-15/"]http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/892202-clothes-masters-bobby-jones-fj-drivers-mp-650-and-r7-425-wwhiteboard-and-3-wood-mp-650-15/[/url]

Heck, I even have a 8.5* r7 425tp there that I will do the same with.

Just PM me

[reg1900]

Why is everyone tipping the x100 so much? I would've thought a steel wood shaft wouldn't need less tipping than a graphite shaft.

Currently play an Anser 10.5 set to + with a S flex Ahina, swing speed 105. Launch is good but spin is a bit low.

Does anyone here think if I put an x100 untipped into the Anser it would spin more than the Ahina?

[reg1900]

[quote name='Wristaction' timestamp='1373960559' post='7463282']
Yesterday I put in a DG X100 sensicore tipped 1,5" in my Anser 9,5 driver. Playing at 43,75" and D4 sw.
Went out on the course for a few holes and ended up pretty much on the same spots where my standard drives goes.
(110 club speed and usually have a ahina 70 X in it.) [size=4]Medium/high launch for me with a controlled draw. Will try ity for a whole round today. Awesome combo! [/size] [size=4] [/size]
[/quote]

Do you think the x100 spins more than the Ahina?

[NRJyzr]

[quote name='reg1900' timestamp='1376229334' post='7652584']
Why is everyone tipping the x100 so much? I would've thought a steel wood shaft wouldn't need less tipping than a graphite shaft.

Currently play an Anser 10.5 set to + with a S flex Ahina, swing speed 105. Launch is good but spin is a bit low.

Does anyone here think if I put an x100 untipped into the Anser it would spin more than the Ahina?
[/quote]

DG wood shafts are not all THAT stiff. DGX100 tipped 1" for a standard bore install would probably be pretty good for a medium tempo 105mph swingspeed (speed measured at 45", that is). Used DSFI for that, FWIW.

Hence the tipping. There's plenty of tip section to hack away at.

As for spin.... this is only anecdotal, as I've not tested on a launch monitor, so take it for what it's worth. I've put steel in a few driver heads over the years, both Rifle and DG. I have a couple clubheads that I'd been using with graphite that became unusable when I put steel in those same clubs; I was ballooning like crazy. Now, those heads were spinning a lot already, but the shafts I'd been using kept them manageable, while the steel pushed it over that line.

So I would say yes, DGX might spin more than the Ahina.

Another factor is trajectory. Everything else in an individual's swing being equal, it's said a shorter club will hit the ball lower. How much, I can't say, the person who'd tested this didn't offer exact numbers, only that the longer shafts produced a higher trajectory for everyone in the test population.

Ultimately, you'll never know until you try. And steel is a cheap experiment, less than $20 for a single DG shaft.

[reg1900]

[quote name='NRJyzr' timestamp='1376235570' post='7653004']
[quote name='reg1900' timestamp='1376229334' post='7652584']
Why is everyone tipping the x100 so much? I would've thought a steel wood shaft wouldn't need less tipping than a graphite shaft.

Currently play an Anser 10.5 set to + with a S flex Ahina, swing speed 105. Launch is good but spin is a bit low.

Does anyone here think if I put an x100 untipped into the Anser it would spin more than the Ahina?
[/quote]

DG wood shafts are not all THAT stiff. DGX100 tipped 1" for a standard bore install would probably be pretty good for a medium tempo 105mph swingspeed (speed measured at 45", that is). Used DSFI for that, FWIW.

Hence the tipping. There's plenty of tip section to hack away at.

As for spin.... this is only anecdotal, as I've not tested on a launch monitor, so take it for what it's worth. I've put steel in a few driver heads over the years, both Rifle and DG. I have a couple clubheads that I'd been using with graphite that became unusable when I put steel in those same clubs; I was ballooning like crazy. Now, those heads were spinning a lot already, but the shafts I'd been using kept them manageable, while the steel pushed it over that line.

So I would say yes, DGX might spin more than the Ahina.

Another factor is trajectory. Everything else in an individual's swing being equal, it's said a shorter club will hit the ball lower. How much, I can't say, the person who'd tested this didn't offer exact numbers, only that the longer shafts produced a higher trajectory for everyone in the test population.

Ultimately, you'll never know until you try. And steel is a cheap experiment, less than $20 for a single DG shaft.
[/quote]

Thanks for the explanation, I thought steel would be more tip stiff and cut spin than graphite.

Do you think the shorter length of the steel shaft, around 43", stiffens the shaft?

[NRJyzr]

[quote]
[color=#282828]Do you think the shorter length of the steel shaft, around 43", stiffens the shaft? [/color]
[color=#282828][/quote][/color]

[color=#282828]No, the "making shaft shorter makes it stiffer" thing is close to the golf equipment version of an urban myth. I've always wondered if that started because people noticed the frequency increased when the club got shorter....[/color]

[JC671]

[quote name='Froth' timestamp='1375913079' post='7627072']
Not a Driver, but I recently went STEEL in my 3wood with a DG Lite X100 and loving every minute.

Has anyone considered putting Steel in a 3Deep? Would that make the universe implode because of straightness?
[/quote]

I put a S300 in my 13* 3deep. It is definitely long.

I'm not a fan of the head, for me it looks closed. I have to open up the face so I don't lose it left of left. My dispersion with it wasn't to great, so I went back to my T60.

[Jefe21]

[quote name='Jefe21' timestamp='1375821338' post='7618302']Stopped by a local golf shop and they placed an order for some steel shafts for me to try out. Said it should be like $30-40 installed. They come in Friday and they will call to have me come by. Cant wait! Trying this on my 9* 290 Classic. Depending on how it performs, I may be selling my 10.5* 290 Classic with the House of Forged XStiff shaft
[/quote]
Came in last night and they put it together today. Picking it up in 2 hours

[Jefe21]

Picked it up Friday night. They put an S300 in it, tipped 1" so 44". Feels so whippy! First two hits were dead straight and very low. Felt good though. 3rd hit the grip moved on me, 4th hit the entire grip was sliding on the shaft so it went back into the bag. Gonna drop it back off for some more glue...

 

[Jefe21]

BTW I am the second person this month that they put a steel shaft on a new driver for. He wants me to bring it back in so he can test it out

[Happytab]

Guys,

Just wanted to give my update as it's the least I could do after the help you all but specifically PixlPutterMan gave me.

I went on holiday recently (I think you guys refer to it as 'vacation') and sent my Classic 290 to a club builder to replace the stock shaft with Steel, to be ready for me when I returned.

I was really confused about the what flex to go for in the shaft and after reading all 27 pages of this thread (at the time) was no clearer on whether to go with an R300 or an S300. I actually ordered the R300, emailed the company and got them to change it to an S300 and then emailed them again and told them to just send me the R300).

I talked about this to the guy who was building the club for me and he said he would make it a firm by tipping it more than the 1 1/4 inch standard and I thought that was a better solution then under-tipping an S300. I also told myself I was over thinking this a bit.

Anyway, I thought about coming home to this driver everyday on my holiday and by the end I couldn't wait to get home. My club builder had emailed me to tell me it was all built and said a few people had seen the driver and wanted to run off with it. To say I was excited would be an understatement.

So, we got home in the middle of the night and had all the unpacking to do the next morning. The driver arrived whilst I was sorting out my dirty undies from my clean ones (using only the power of smell) but I told myself I wouldn't even open the box until all my post holiday chores were complete. (I have some weird pleasure-delay thing that I like to do to myself).

After everything was done, I made myself a Nespresso and took the box to my special chair for the opening process. Well, all that anticipation was justified as this driver is the best looking set up I have ever personally seen. I could not love it more if it was wearing a basque and suspenders and had a mini fridge built in.

And that brings me to the first problem I had......... I had built this Driver up so much in my head, and it looked so beautiful that I could not bring myself to hit it, even at the range, for fear of tarnishing the love I was feeling towards it. So I just put it where I could see it and easily reach it and refused to hit it for over a week.

A week later, after the initial feelings had dulled to a the level of a strong crush, I finally took her to the range for the first hit. I was now ready to see what she could do and i felt I was ready to deal with whatever results I got. I am that mentally strong, or at least I thought i was.

Time for issue number two which was that having suppressed my desires for over a week I could not even wait to go through any sort of a warming up process before giving her a go. In fact, the automatic ball popper had barely reached the desired apex of it's travel before I was swinging the face of my classic towards a ball that thought being first out meant it was only getting a lovely kiss from a wedge but shouted "oh Sh......" as the reality dawned that being first isn't always best.

I wonder if you can guess the outcome of that session? Well it was a big nasty smelly horrible old fail. Not surprising when you look back on it but I left feeling depressed and confused. Maybe I was the exception that proved Robo to be right (although I have never understood that concept). Maybe it really is the Indian and there was nothing actually wrong with my other much lighter arrows? Maybe I swing like a one armed monkey with a greasy hand? Who knows but what I do know is that I left feeling depressed and hating myself for being so foolish to think the route cause of all my life's woes could be cured by sticking a steel shaft in a pretty driver head.

So, fast forward to now and the results of my first round with her. The first time you take your new girl out to meet your mates is always interesting and I removed her headcover with pride only for my playing partner to have an air swing of her (I don't let my mates have a fondle of new girls I bring to see them, before you ask, mostly because I am married and have not had new girl for twenty years) and proclaimed "not sure I like the feel of that!

Unperturbed I drove off and hit a straight push into the semi. I hate the right of a course but it went straight there and its the cut I can't stand so I didn't panic. Distance was on a par with my mates 3 wood which is about right as he hits the ball much further than me.

2nd hole bam straight down the middle and surprisingly long for me, 6th hole slight fade but long again. OK the ground is hard but this baby rolls like a runaway tram in San-Francisco.

I'm not going to bore you with every hole and I did hit some slices courtesy of a couple of swings so out to in that the clubhead almost got caught in my trouser hem (pants) but overall I was delighted.

In summery, it's early days but what I think I am going to get with this driver is a better swing due the the heft of the steel and more roll due to the low spin head.

I know it's customary to finish post such as this with statements like I couldn't be happier but the truth is I could be happier (it doesn't stop me coming over the top after all) but at the moment I am happy.

Looking forward to round two on the weekend.

Thanks again to PixlPutterman and Robo for this thread and their help and to you for reading my asinine drivel.

[bullrambler]

Update again... Well I finally got the Clev 290 9* , Head weight was 201 grams. I reshafted and tipped the S-300 about 2 1/2 inches. Finished length is close to 43 3/4 inch and Swingweight is about D-4 with a mid size Golfpride Multi compound grip. It plays stiff enough and I was surprised it hits the ball on a medium trajectory with a very soft fade. - I'll take that...

And the Titleist 983K 7.5* was reshafted with an X-100 I pulled out of an old persimmon. I had it made at the end of the era of wood - woods custom built as a keeper. It cracked so I thought I'd remove the shaft and examine the tip. I broke off about 1/2 inch of the tip in the extraction. I trimmed it on an angle 1/4 inch to match the bore through of the 983 K 7.5* head. It may have stiffened it up a bit so I added some Swingweight. As a finished club it is 43 1/2 inch and comes out at D-5. This club hits bullets that are primarily straight - straight. I'll keep hitting both of them till one comes out a winner. They are so close. For me and the one with the X-100 was stiffer then the tipped S-300 but not overly so.

For those who are doing this experiment It might take a bit of time to adjust to the heavier weight of a steel shafted driver, but if one has a decent enough swing - you may initially find the distance to be a tad shorter then your composite shafted driver at first. But as your golf muscles adjust to the added weight - the distance comes back, and with more accuracy down the middle. The retraining and rebuilding of the golf muscles doesn't necessary take as long as one might think it would. Probably two to three weeks tops. I gained 25 yards when I got used to the weight and kick.

[mr smith]

Have had my steeled Classic 310 9.5 for 3 rounds and I know now that I will never use graphite again. I put an S300 in untipped at about 44. It feels soft to flex but doesnt perform that way. My accuracy has improved out of sight, especially when I jump on it. I have found thhat with steel you have to go hard at it to get good results. You cant smooth steel, you really have to power through the shot. I liked it so much I am picking up my 905R 9.5 with S300 tipped an inch (not full thrubore) playing 43 today. If I like this stiffer version better I will get my Classic tipped an inch to play 43 also. I know guys will say you have to lose distance playing shorter in steel but I just havent found that to be the case. The shorter shaft and heavier weight lets me really havea rip without worrying about.direction. I am hitting to at least the same places.as I did with graphite, just now Im doing it more often. Im starting to think that maybe graphite was a gimmick invented by oems to sell more stuff. Graphite came stock with the new titanium drivers, so I think people mistakeny put the better results down to the shaft as well as the new heads, mainly because you couldnt a steel shaft to compare results with. Maybe graphite does have advantages for some players, but I honestly believe any experienced golfer with a ss over 100 would get better results.from steel.

[Jefe21]

Ready to hit!

 

[chch3]

I don't play driver anymore, but I still have a s300 in my RBZ 4 wood. I hit the thing so long and straight. s300 is not coming out of that head anytime soon. I like and hit the RBZ so good, that that I might give my new cally XHP fairways the steel treatment too.

[mr smith]

[quote name='chch3' timestamp='1378473809' post='7806417']
I don't play driver anymore, but I still have a s300 in my RBZ 4 wood. I hit the thing so long and straight. s300 is not coming out of that head anytime soon. I like and hit the RBZ so good, that that I might give my new cally XHP fairways the steel treatment too.
[/quote]
Did you try steel in driver before you stopped playing driver?

[mr smith]

Ready to hit!

 

Oh hell yeah!!!! ready to hit. Oversize chamois looks perfect. Love it.

[chch3]

[quote name='mr smith' timestamp='1378714513' post='7818441']
[quote name='chch3' timestamp='1378473809' post='7806417']
I don't play driver anymore, but I still have a s300 in my RBZ 4 wood. I hit the thing so long and straight. s300 is not coming out of that head anytime soon. I like and hit the RBZ so good, that that I might give my new cally XHP fairways the steel treatment too.
[/quote]
Did you try steel in driver before you stopped playing driver?
[/quote]

Yeah, but I was still erratic with it. I know it is more to do with my swing than the club, but I am more comfortable with a fairway wood off the tee. I switched to a 3 deep and I am only losing about 15-20 yards off the tee. I am always in the fairway though which is a big difference.