Who is going to build a shorter driver based on Wishon article?

[Stuart_G]

[quote name='14max' timestamp='1389298923' post='8429753']
I've considered having my driver shortened to 44" (it's 45" now). I think I'd need a much heavier shaft in order to keep the swingweight at D2, however, so I'm not sure if it's worth doing.
[/quote]

With a shorter length, most people do need to add some weight but typically not all the way back to what it was at the longer length. Once you change length, don't assume you need to keep the SW exactly the same (that's not how SW really works). You really need to go through the process to find the new 'best' SW for the shorter length.

[GolfMonster09]

I've been playing my drivers at a max of 44.5" since tryin the "Steel shafted Cleveland Classic" that had a cult thread floating around this site. Put an X100 in a Cleveland Classic head and played three rounds on a vacation down in Texas - missed 4 total fairways. I now have a setup to play my Covert Tour w/ an X100 at 44" and a setup with a Grafalloy New Blue 60X at 45". Control vs. Control/Distance. Love the shorter setups

[Jeckert07]

I've been wanting to use a shorter shaft in my driver for awhile now, I guess the article helped solidify the decision...

[DavePelz4]

The problems Tom outlined regarding fairway woods perfectly reflected my 3w miss. I'm going in for an iron fitting and am going to take the 3w as well. Thank you Tom for sharing your knowledge and insights with us!

[SHIVAN]

[quote name='lettucebcereal' timestamp='1389295078' post='8429317']
I tried one, only problem is the massive amount of lead tape I had to add to get it back to the SW I like. Disregarding that, I lost a little bit of distance but I am more consistent.

Right now, I'm just using my stock RFX and just choking down on it and that's working as well.
[/quote]

Get Jeff to order the OptiFit weight kits, and you can add up to 25g via the two weight ports.

[Sean2]

I'm tall with relatively short arms. I'm kinda one of the outliers.

[Kadin 25]

I play a 44" driver and have no intention on going back anytime soon.

OP you will need to add some weight to the head to bring the swing weight back up to a desired "feel". (If that hasn't been mentioned yet)

[Air Jordan]

Maybe I'm not sensitive enough to notice the swing weight difference, but I took 1.25" off of the butt end of my G25 and added a few strips of lead tape on the sole near the heal and I've been hitting the best drives of my life and haven't noticed any swing weight change..

[jedc]

I already took my driver from stock length 45.75" to 45". I have been hitting it choked down 1.5" with much more consistency. I have added some lead tape to the head to restore feel. I will be going down to 44" soon and probably still choke down a little. I play my 4W at 42" and find it much more consistent to hit off the deck this way.

[Lacey Underall]

[quote name='HiSpeed48' timestamp='1389296698' post='8429531']
[quote name='tdelam' timestamp='1389295342' post='8429357']
[quote name='Lacey Underall' timestamp='1389294922' post='8429299']
[quote name='tdelam' timestamp='1389294035' post='8429205']
A fitting session would determine if you need a shorter shafted driver. Now all kinds of people are running out to their shops and cutting down their driver shafts, lol! If you didn't get fitted and want that much of a shorter shafted option then really you're after a 3 wood, are you not? Could always get an 11.5* strong 3 wood. Why not just get fitted for a proper driver? That way you can get the swingweight adjusted from the manufacturer if you do in fact need a shorter shaft.
[/quote]
I understand your point about fitting, but really who in the world would be fitted for a 45.75" driver? Maybe an NBA player or two. I like your idea of the strong 3 wood. Cannot tell you how many guys have come in my shop and said they now hit their 3 wood (Rocketballz, X Hot, etc) as long as their driver.
[/quote]

Yea, I guess the old standard in the 80's was 43" for a driver but things change. I have a friend who cut his driver down but still opt's for his X Hot 3 wood as his driver instead. He kept using his driver and said "I shouldn't be scared of it" until we all reasoned with him and said it's pointless because he hits his 3 wood further and straighter. I don't know, maybe it's just me but I just find it very strange that cutting down a driver is considered a good thing without any sort of fitting or swingweight adjustments.
[/quote]

The driver is the most forgiving club in the bag, I feel like it would make more sense to play a shorter driver rather than a longer 3-wood.

If someone hits their 3-wood farther than their driver then it's either mental or their driver isn't properly fit for them.
[/quote]
This is a good point. I play a 10.5* driver at standard length. With a heavier/shorter shaft I may need even more loft. So why not a high launch driver head (12-13*) at 44" or shorter? Might be a good combo.

[tdelam]

[quote name='Lacey Underall' timestamp='1389302797' post='8430243']
This is a good point. I play a 10.5* driver at standard length. With a heavier/shorter shaft I may need even more loft. So why not a high launch driver head (12-13*) at 44" or shorter? Might be a good combo.
[/quote]

It's something to seriously consider, this will make the decision of hitting "driver off the deck" much easier

[nova6868]

44" with 12-13 loft is probably what many amateurs would probably play best with.

I don't know why some smaller OEM doesnt try it. Don't even stamp loft on the head. Just an adjustable hosel for "higher" or "lower". I'd love to try one.

[square]

I play a 44" driver because I was able to find a head size (425CC) and head weight (weight screws). TM offered this in their 425 model, which came out about 2006.
43.5' to 44.5" are great. Unfortunatlely the manufacturers, including Wishon Golf, don't offer the components (head size and especially head weight) which make a shorter than 45" driver easily attainable.

[quote name='Lacey Underall' timestamp='1389290192' post='8428781']
I've only gone as short as 44.5" in the past. Tempted to build something at 44" this year. Still having a hard time believing that the change in swingweight won't be a problem.
[/quote]

[Lacey Underall]

Totally agree. The OEMs make it tough to achieve a driver under 45" that makes much sense. Titleist still keeps their stock drivers at 45", so its pretty easy to cut them 1/2" and maintain weight/feel. My old standby the Callaway FT Tour was stock at 45" and 440cc so it gives me some flexibility.

[cb24]

I play a driver with a 43.75'' shaft and love it. All the new driver shafts are just too long for me

[erock9174]

I have a G25 12*, head weighs 200g. shaft adapter another 5grams with two shafts playing at 44".
Stock TFC swing weights at C4 and the Diamana S+ shaft I have is a C8. To be honest I can't feel a lick of difference between them when swinging the club.
So SW feel really depends on the golfer.

I also have a Rapture V2 13.5* shortened to 44". Stock shaft. This one is pretty neat to hit. Towering balls that don't balloon.

Also somebody mentioned that most amateurs would do better with a shorter, high lofted driver.
Hireko Golf always offers a "Thriver" club in their Acer line that does just this.
While I haven't tried it, it's built to 44", 65g shaft, with a 210g head and 14* of loft.
Most reviews say it doesnt launch as high as one would expect. The nice thing is the price, around $100-$110 range. So cheap experiment.

[erock9174]

I forgot to mention in my last post that all of last season I gamed an 12* R11s (set to 13.5*). I swapped the 10g weight out for a 16g and with the 16g/1g weight plugs the head weighed in at 208g. Also the shaft adapter adds another 5g or so, we we're pretty much talking 213g total or roughly the weight of a 3w head. Also for me, the added heft to the head added a little kick to the R flex shaft which I like. I never hit so many fairways. And it was the longest driver I've ever gamed up to that point.
My goal with switching to the g25 was to gain a little clubhead speed. It probably is slightly longer than the r11s but I am working through some swing issues right now so I cant make a good assessment.

[eldog-in-the-hizouse]

Played a TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 at 43" most of last summer. I didn't lose any distance at all, but did not get the better dispersion I was hoping for either. Didn't have a great year swing-wise, but I totally agree with the premise, the 46" or 45.75" drivers are too long for most people to be expected to consistently find the club face.

[MadGolfer76]

I had a j33r with an AxivCore Tour Green 85 which played at 44 inches. Axiv Green felt like it was tip weighted, so it didn't really feel like the swing weight was off by much. Just a strip or two of lead tape and it was good to go. Also had an L4Vx/Pype 80x combo at 44 inches. That was sick - shouldn't have gotten rid of it! L4 was a heavier head. I think that is part of what makes it all work.

[Franks113]

This past summer I built a driver for a buddy of mine who is on the shorter side the driver played at 42.5 inches and he hits it pretty well. I myself am over 6 feet and play a 45 inch driver. The times I hit the shorter driver was pretty unbelievable because I don't recall missing the sweet spot and every shot was very straight. However I'm a stubborn guy and didn't cut my driver down but after reading Tom's article I may have to give it a try.

[square]

After some experimentation with length, shafts, and head weight, the best results for me were 80 gram shaft, 217 gram head weight, 44" finished length. The swing weight of my driver is D4.

[quote name='MadGolfer76' timestamp='1389308786' post='8430927']
I had a j33r with an AxivCore Tour Green 85 which played at 44 inches. Axiv Green felt like it was tip weighted, so it didn't really feel like the swing weight was off by much. Just a strip or two of lead tape and it was good to go. Also had an L4Vx/Pype 80x combo at 44 inches. That was sick - shouldn't have gotten rid of it! L4 was a heavier head. I think that is part of what makes it all work.
[/quote]

[runpuddrun]

[quote name='nova6868' timestamp='1389295817' post='8429409']
Look at driver head weights, there are some that are plenty heavy. G25, i25, to name a couple. Install an aftermarket shaft, especially something tip-heavy, in the 44.5-45" range and the swing weight should be fine.

Or have a sweet Wishon 919 built for you.
[/quote]it's funny how this comes up every so often. But this is exactly right. G25 was tailor made to have aftermarket shafts in it. I also have 3x 919thi drivers all playing under 44.5,the shortest one being 44.0. I also have 2 G25's, one with an axe shaft and it plays at D4.5 and 44.25.

[Chef Otto]

[quote name='Lacey Underall' timestamp='1389293470' post='8429143']
[quote name='Apex93' timestamp='1389292223' post='8428975']
And for those worried about swing weight, a club fitter (or lead tape) can get you back to what you are most used to easily.
[/quote]
Not necessarily true. If you cut a 45" driver down to 44" then you have a 6 swingweight difference to make up. Heavier shaft will get you 1-2 swingweights max. So now you would have to add enough lead tape to make up 4 swingweights? That's a massive amount of lead tape. Not really feasible. If you are starting out with a 45.75" inch driver then just forget about it. Now you are talking 8-9 swingweights. Its impossible to make that up.
[/quote]
It is true and easy to adjust your SW especially for a experienced builder. And the total weight of the driver has nothing to do with the SW but everything to do with the static (overall) weight which often is confused with SW. It is possible to have the exact same SW with a driver built with a 75g shaft and a 75# shaft. And starting with a 45.75 is no problem either. Last summer I bought a g25 which is 45.75" stock. I had a ust vts 85g shaft laying around I installed this shaft and cut it to play at 44" 1.75" shorter then stock. With a stock grip weighing in the 55g range the club sw was c8 or c9 at this point you can add weight to the head as most people do or take weight away from the butt end. I did this by installing a winn lite v17grip that is 26g. This brought my sw back up to D3.5 Lead tape is the easiest way to add weight to the head unless you have a driver with adjustable weights that can be changed. But when building you can use hosel weights, hot melt the head, tungsten powder and other things to get the weight back to your desired sw.

[Mitchell]

Have played 44.5" drivers for years, found this particular length works best for me.

[PeanutsDaddy]

For the majority of the season I have been playing a 12* R11s at 44.75". Recently cut the 65 gram shaft to 44" and increased the swingweight to D2 by adding heavier weights to the head (a real benefit with adjustable weight technology).

Also, followed Tom's advice and cut my hybrids to integrate them with my long irons. Jumping from a 37.75" 5 iron to a 39.5" (or more) 4 hybrid was a struggle. The shorter shaft has improved contact and my distance gaps are where they should be.

[portland]

I play my 913 at 44". Love it.

[deck]

Was fit this past fall by Tom. He recommended a driver playing at 44 for me. Well I already had one that I was using. Been playing it for a year and have no intention of going longer. Finding a lot more fairways with my driver being shorter and now I am also longer.

[ezmorningrebel]

I'm playing a k15 at 44" with a fairway wood shaft in it. I don't ever see myself going back to longer drivers.

[bird_4_3]

I have a 44.5 Wishon 919 with a Harrison Prototype. Great club, straight and forgiving.

[dspavin]

I'm 5'10- playing a Bridgestone J33R 460 at 44.5 with a bimatrix 85X. Couldn't be happier. My loss in swing speed is made up for in finding the sweet spot. Played my local 9 hole this morning and went 4/6 on fairways hit, with my two misses only being just off the good stuff (and trying to be a bit too fancy with doglegs)
Before playing this driver most of my shafts were 45+ and around 60-70g.
Not only would I recommend going down in length, but try going up in shaft weight.