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Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)


Bigmean

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Update on my MP4 saga. The ebay seller was incredibly apologetic. Called me and thanked for asking the question prior to reporting to ebay. He dropped the MP4's in the mail with a return label for the MP54's. Should be in business by next weekends rounds. Buy with confidence. It was obviously an error, and they handled it professionally and timely.

 

love your swing

 

Why thank you

I'm a sucker for lefty swings. Why do you all wiggle it so well????

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Update on my MP4 saga. The ebay seller was incredibly apologetic. Called me and thanked for asking the question prior to reporting to ebay. He dropped the MP4's in the mail with a return label for the MP54's. Should be in business by next weekends rounds. Buy with confidence. It was obviously an error, and they handled it professionally and timely.

 

love your swing

 

Why thank you

I'm a sucker for lefty swings. Why do you all wiggle it so well????

 

For me, I played a lot of baseball as a kid and studied biomechanics in college.

 

My mom always said everyone is born a righty, only the gifted overcome that disability :D

Taylormade Sim 9° (set to 7°) - Fuji 53k X 

Cobra Rad Speed Tour 5 Wood 16° - Attas-T2 9x

Mizuno MP Fli Hi 18° - C Taper 125 S+
Mizuno MP Fli Hi 23° - C Taper 120 S
Srixon z785 5-PW - KBS TourV X

Cleveland ZipCore 50° - Tour S400
Ping Glide Pro Forged 54°/ Eye Toe 59°  - Tour S400
Seemore mFGP2 
Podcast - "Rough Fairways - A Journey to the PGA Tour" available on Spotify - Pandora - Apple

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I always thought it would be bitchin to take a 17/18 degree MB 1 iron and stick it on a shaft that was 3i/4i length. Loft creep old school.

 

Give it a go! At one point, I played my 4/5/6 at 6i length and had no issues. If you put a 4i shaft in it, you'd be able to change your swing plane enough to where it might work to elevate the ball better too. In all reality, I don't think a lot of people notice as much difference in distance because of shaft length as they do because of loft. The difference between my PW and 3i swing speed wise is less than 10 mph, but it's around 75 yards in carry distance, and 10mph chs doesn't even equate to 50% of that really.

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I always thought it would be bitchin to take a 17/18 degree MB 1 iron and stick it on a shaft that was 3i/4i length. Loft creep old school.

I had a 37" 1i. It was terrible, so tread with care. It's​ a Ram head so it has about as much forgiveness as a chainsaw for fingers. Very difficult to elevate. Not a half bad putter though. Now it's 40" with a KBS and it's a fair 2i. Not great, but fair.

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Got out today...driving range hero...on course zero. My driver was less than useful and carried slice after slice. I couldn't manage to get a decent distance at all when it went straight (3 iron distances). We had a slight head wind, but I'll be darned if that was the cause. I managed to fat everything irons in the tee box. Bladed wedges anyone? I was in the sand three times and the first time was horrible. I swung to get under the ball and elevate it out of the sand and BOING! I hit hard clay after a half inch. I'm sorry to report that I didn't take this well at all. I felt deceived and wronged by the shallow sand not to mention that I had just had my bell thoroughly rung. I had to pick it just right to get out. Oh well. I actually took honors twice today and that's a first. I pulled off a tough save of par once, but never got a look at​ Birdie. My three and five irons remained loyal throughout​ the round hardly faltering. Blessed are those clubs! I did however get to share an enjoyable day with one of my good buddies who also suffered a treacherous round today. At one point he went into the brush looking for a ball and apparently disturbed a large whitetail deer and it looked like he was trying to catch the deer from a distance as he picked his way out of the brush. Sasquatch chasing Bambi.

 

Well back to the driving range for me. I've got to find some ability before Easter when I get to play a round on a PGA level course with the in-laws. Driving and pitching will be where I shall start.

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Pixl, you can still get it back. They say you're strongest at 30, and as strong at 35 as you are at 25. It might require a wee bit o'work, though, LOL

 

All I read there was less beer, not sure how I feel about that :)

 

At 36 I could spare you guys the swing vids and just share photos. Pretty sure less hair and more belly is bad for distance and beer saved my last round sooooo.....nope on skipping that.

 

I am putting best in my life now though fwiw.

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OK so what is the practical limit of strong loft on a long iron? Forget the iron #. What is the limit before you don't get any increase in distance because the loft is too strong?

 

My BB 2i is 18* and I still get 10 yards longer distance than my 3i at 21*. So I draw my limit at 18*. Does anybody have and sucessfully game a long iron with < 18* loft?

 

For me, unless it is really windy I stay with a 22 deg #3, windy, a 19 deg #2 in place of steel shafted #5 wood. I have several #1's, never found it to be practical from a percentage play perspective or from the setup of the course I normally play.

 

Depending upon how crazy you are about the club, I'd say somewhere in the 21° range for most people. I feel like folks that have to go high in the bag are making excuses for lack of preparation. Really you can hit the 3&4i. If I can do it, so can you.

 

The 18° is not impossible nor is the 15°, but now we are getting into the realm of practicing with the club regularly and honestly the 15° is so picky on lies where it is truly optimal. Most times you are better off pulling the 18° or even 21°.

 

The madness is levelling off. I still really​ enjoy the 1&2 and am working to perfect the long irons.

 

This is why I've suggested not using a 1 iron if the 2 iron in your set is in the 17° to 18° loft zone. Anything lower is really tough to use as an iron, which is where the fairway woods come in.

 

Remember Trevino's famous comment about 1 irons? He is/was a low trajectory player. He's got the skill, just doesn't fit his trajectory. ;)

 

Yeah I think it is more trajectory dependent than SS dependent. As long as a slow SS player gets enough height and distance with his longest iron such that it goes progressively longer than the closest shorter iron, then that long iron is still 'OK' for that particular player.

 

And to me I don't think anybody really knows their own personal strongest lofted iron limit until they push past it with an actual club and outright "prove" that they are losing yardage (and/or height) with it. Before this thread and purchase of my 18* BB 2i, I would have thought my SS (max is 95 mph w/driver) capped me at a 21* 3i, but after proving that I do get a 10 yard distance increase with the 2i, and I get height with it that is "high enough" for me and my game (but still lower, obviously, than my 3i), my newly discovered cap is 18*! And to further this point, I really don't know if a 15* 1i is going to work out for me or not, but if I go with "generally" speaking knowledge, then my SS is too low for it. Hence my question on practical limit of an iron's strong loft...again I think the answer is somewhat subjective and it is really hard to define one's own limit until they push past it and "prove" it.

 

That's a pretty damn good grasp of reality in regards to ultra long irons. All the stars need to align to really capitalize on such a club. That's probably why that type of club is slowly dying and we are seeing more and more 16° hybrids infiltrating the racks at the store.

 

Not disagreeing, but an alternate theory as to why the long irons are dying is because the HALF-TRUTH carney science manufacturers jack the iron lofts so much that the modern 3 and 4 irons are actually old school 2 and 3 irons, respectively (or even 1 and 2 irons, respectively).

 

On a side note, we also started seeing more gap wedges on the racks at stores because again, alternate theory only, the lofts are JACKED at the wedge end as well as the long iron end.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Yeah I think it is more trajectory dependent than SS dependent. As long as a slow SS player gets enough height and distance with his longest iron such that it goes progressively longer than the closest shorter iron, then that long iron is still 'OK' for that particular player.

 

And to me I don't think anybody really knows their own personal strongest lofted iron limit until they push past it with an actual club and outright "prove" that they are losing yardage (and/or height) with it. Before this thread and purchase of my 18* BB 2i, I would have thought my SS (max is 95 mph w/driver) capped me at a 21* 3i, but after proving that I do get a 10 yard distance increase with the 2i, and I get height with it that is "high enough" for me and my game (but still lower, obviously, than my 3i), my newly discovered cap is 18*! And to further this point, I really don't know if a 15* 1i is going to work out for me or not, but if I go with "generally" speaking knowledge, then my SS is too low for it. Hence my question on practical limit of an iron's strong loft...again I think the answer is somewhat subjective and it is really hard to define one's own limit until they push past it and "prove" it.

 

Not disagreeing, but an alternate theory as to why the long irons are dying is because the HALF-TRUTH carney science manufacturers jack the iron lofts so much that the modern 3 and 4 irons are actually old school 2 and 3 irons, respectively (or even 1 and 2 irons, respectively).

 

On a side note, we also started seeing more gap wedges on the racks at stores because again, alternate theory only, the lofts are JACKED at the wedge end as well as the long iron end.

I think swing speed is a big factor in these irons as far as being able to see a difference in distance. When I'm exhausted it doesn't matter if you hand me a 1 or a 4 iron. I'm going to get similar results with the distance between clubs being greatly diminished. I don't think there's a need for a player to be playing the long irons if they aren't generating the force to make it happen. I'm starting to be convinced that it's a recipe for injury from my own attempts to rock the long irons late in a practice session. I have noticed I break out of my form and scavenge power by recruitment of other muscle groups to attempt to make it work with the big club.

 

The biggest reason for the disappearing 1&2 irons is people are going the easy way. If the hybrid takes less effort than let's do that. The number of idiots like me who are willing to tolerate the learning curve to be able to hit these clubs is diminishing. Everyone is doing their level best at every turn to scoff and make discouraging comments about the 1 iron. A lot of it spurs from the fact that there isn't any​ new equipment coming out here so the salesmen and pros aren't going to have anything good to say about them. The UDIs failed when TM released them. Apparently they weren't marketed effectively. If they were released tomorrow and DJ picked one up and started playing it then we'd have a big interest there. I feel like technology is manipulated by manufacturers in both the golf and firearms industries in a rotating schedule where blades are going to come back into fashion and the 1-iron may rise again.

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Sir Slice, golf "technology", as presented by HALF-TRUTH carney science manufacturers, is nothing but a glorified fashion statement. A blade design is alread the pinnacle of design for irons and precision ball striking (regardless of your skill level), and so all those "forgiving" alternates to them, long irons included, are nothing but changes to the LOOK and FEEL to them more so than anything technical that provides some sort of tangible scoring advantage. So yes, in the end the industry is much like the fashion industry with some HALF-TRUTH carney science attached to it. Sure, ball flights may be different based on different club designs, but they are not necessarily better.

 

Edit: And even in the context of blade designs only, you see the designs cycle around and come in and out of fashion.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Half truth Carney science will eventually come back around to blades being awesome again. It's a carefully orchestrated scheme to keep the revenue stream strong.

 

Pure science already makes blades awesome.

 

The scheme only works if you ignorant enough to buy into the half-truth carney science to begin with.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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OK so what is the practical limit of strong loft on a long iron? Forget the iron #. What is the limit before you don't get any increase in distance because the loft is too strong?

 

My BB 2i is 18* and I still get 10 yards longer distance than my 3i at 21*. So I draw my limit at 18*. Does anybody have and sucessfully game a long iron with < 18* loft?

 

For me, unless it is really windy I stay with a 22 deg #3, windy, a 19 deg #2 in place of steel shafted #5 wood. I have several #1's, never found it to be practical from a percentage play perspective or from the setup of the course I normally play.

 

Depending upon how crazy you are about the club, I'd say somewhere in the 21° range for most people. I feel like folks that have to go high in the bag are making excuses for lack of preparation. Really you can hit the 3&4i. If I can do it, so can you.

 

The 18° is not impossible nor is the 15°, but now we are getting into the realm of practicing with the club regularly and honestly the 15° is so picky on lies where it is truly optimal. Most times you are better off pulling the 18° or even 21°.

 

The madness is levelling off. I still really​ enjoy the 1&2 and am working to perfect the long irons.

 

This is why I've suggested not using a 1 iron if the 2 iron in your set is in the 17° to 18° loft zone. Anything lower is really tough to use as an iron, which is where the fairway woods come in.

 

Remember Trevino's famous comment about 1 irons? He is/was a low trajectory player. He's got the skill, just doesn't fit his trajectory. ;)

 

 

I had my Fli Hi bent to 16 degree's in College, but I rarely used it outside a tee shot. That think just ran and ran........now Im a decrepit 32 years old and I think Ill bend it from 18 to 19 soon :)

 

Funny boy. Just wait 20 years. We'll all have a laugh, then. :)

 

I think at 52, any iron under 20 degrees bends you.

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I always thought it would be bitchin to take a 17/18 degree MB 1 iron and stick it on a shaft that was 3i/4i length. Loft creep old school.

I had a 37" 1i. It was terrible, so tread with care. It's​ a Ram head so it has about as much forgiveness as a chainsaw for fingers. Very difficult to elevate. Not a half bad putter though. Now it's 40" with a KBS and it's a fair 2i. Not great, but fair.

 

Yeah, tricking up a club like that requires real expertise on shaft dynamics. Grabbing a hacksaw and or just sticking it on a 4 iron shaft may not work as well as one might think.

 

Back in the day, the choice was a persimmon w/steel shaft vs a #1 iron that was probably at around 20 degrees, last 25 years or so the choice is a metal headed fairway (steel or Ti) w/ graphite vs a low lofted iron. The calculus between the two are quite different. I think it's a good idea to be able to utilize a #2 or lower but I am not so certain one should always carry it. It's why I platoon between a 20 year old #5 and a #2i.

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I always thought it would be bitchin to take a 17/18 degree MB 1 iron and stick it on a shaft that was 3i/4i length. Loft creep old school.

I had a 37" 1i. It was terrible, so tread with care. It's​ a Ram head so it has about as much forgiveness as a chainsaw for fingers. Very difficult to elevate. Not a half bad putter though. Now it's 40" with a KBS and it's a fair 2i. Not great, but fair.

 

Yeah, tricking up a club like that requires real expertise on shaft dynamics. Grabbing a hacksaw and or just sticking it on a 4 iron shaft may not work as well as one might think.

 

Back in the day, the choice was a persimmon w/steel shaft vs a #1 iron that was probably at around 20 degrees, last 25 years or so the choice is a metal headed fairway (steel or Ti) w/ graphite vs a low lofted iron. The calculus between the two are quite different. I think it's a good idea to be able to utilize a #2 or lower but I am not so certain one should always carry it. It's why I platoon between a 20 year old #5 and a #2i.

I have the KBS in the ex-short magnum iron now. If I don't like the combo after a while I will try the KBS in my Fli-Hi II 21°. That will definitely be an awesome combination. Trying to keep from doing it out of curiosity alone.

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Goals for this weekend:

-Continue to get more comfortable with the new driver. I hit the final five fairways last Saturday. Really starting to understand it after 3 rounds together.

-Make the shots that I know I can make. Pick a shot and commit to it. Two putt pars are better than hard up and downs that tend to lead to bogey or double.

-Focus on keeping the ball on the high side of the hole while putting.

-Enjoy the last two rounds with the MP32s.

-When I get in trouble, don't be a hero. Take the medicine of the bad shot, and don't make it worse. Bogey is better than triple.

-Stay in the moment. Don't worry about the 18 hole score on #1. Pars lead to good rounds!

 

Wanted to report back on my weekend rounds. Was fortunate to play with two buddies that are up and coming pros. I'm still trying to get back down to a low single digit handicap so I gave them free reign to look at the swing and give me some tips. So glad that we did. We found a major issue with my alignment that is causing the occasional pull hook. Need some range time to get comfortable again with the change, but it was an "ah ha" moment. Setting up significantly right of target and pulling it left is exacerbated on the driver. Range time will fix this. When I was able to get the proper set up going, my distance was a little greater as well.

 

I'd say I was the best at keeping the ball on the high side of the hole. It let to really nice putting statistics over the two rounds (30 putts Sat, 29 putts Sun).

 

I did a relatively good job of trying to not be a hero when in trouble. Only one time (which led to a triple) did I try to make a crazy shot that I shouldn't have made.

 

Didn't have a single birdie on the weekend. I'll blame this on working through some swing changes on course with these guys, and not hitting as many greens as I typically do. We'll work through this little change.

 

All in all, hit the ball decent, the short game was effective (not as good as I would like it to be though), and the putting was as good as it has been all year.

 

Really looking forward to a range session or two this week with my alignment sticks to work on proper alignment and not trying to over follow through to compensate for the poor set up.

Goid morning Kad's :)

 

Sounds like you stuck to your game plan pretty well!!

 

In your initial post, #'s 2, 5 & 6 are CRITICAL to Playing competitively at Plus!!

 

Having been a low single you obviously know this. If you notice, those three goals are MENTAL versus the others being more from the physical side. I started carrying the card below in 1993 in my back right slacks pocket and if I ever started to "overthink" a shot or try what my Teacher also referred to as a "hero" shot, I would pull it, read it and hit the shot that I knew that I could hit, and Maddie tells people that you could tell how well I was Playing by how often I pulled the card. In 2012, my last in the game from June through my last tourney in October, I pulled it twice. My Teacher had been preaching it for almost twenty years(1974), and though I was at +3.1 at the time(1993), It seemed that I would always try at least one "hero" shot a round, lol. I finally decided to give his way a shot(no pun intended), lmao. It made my game much less mercurial, and I quit having to "reach" for birds or eagles to make up for the bone headed doubles, lol.

 

As you know having been there and what 96%+ do not know, will never understand and will never get to low single/scratch or Plus and that is that the game is 90%+ MENTAL. I won my last club the following year across 54 holes with 48 pars, 5 birdies and a bogey. Most boring one of the lot(4) though it was much muchh easier on me mentally and emotionally, lol.

 

The Very Best to ya this Season and enjoy the 32's!!

 

All the Best,

RP

 

Richard. My man! As the self proclaimed hero shot producer of all time I must say that I love that quote ! I need to print that out and carry it in my pocket. But being a over confident , over imaginative trick shot artist , my brain wants to tell me " you KNOW you can pull this off. ". I never "think" I can. And I'm correct a good percentage of the time. But as you know when your wrong it's instant double or worse. Any thoughts for an idiot like me !

 

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So would it be possible to have the Ram 1 iron bent to 15° as a true 1 iron should be?

 

A true 1 iron is 17°

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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15* is 3w loft territory. Call it a zero iron.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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15* is 3w loft territory. Call it a zero iron.

TEE released an eleven degree three wood with the XCG5 series. Big, deep head with a tungsten sole. High speed high-ballers could elevate it off a good fairway lie, no problem. Whether or not it was better than the thirteens is something I'll never be able to tell you.
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A 15° iron...well...now that just seems absurd.

 

Why? A 3w is 15* loft. If you can hit a 15* 3w, which also will likely have a slightly longer shaft, then you can hit a 15* iron and/or hybrid...in theory.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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15* is 3w loft territory. Call it a zero iron.

TEE released an eleven degree three wood with the XCG5 series. Big, deep head with a tungsten sole. High speed high-ballers could elevate it off a good fairway lie, no problem. Whether or not it was better than the thirteens is something I'll never be able to tell you.

 

I play a 13* and +1/2" longer CB2 3w as a "driver" next to my 15* standard CB2. I use the 13* sparingly off the deck. It goes farther than the 15*, but not by much to be worth it because it is a hard shot off turf with it.

 

From the tee box it is a different story. The distance and consistency with it is as good as a 460cc 10* driver. It blows away the 15*.

 

For me I would treat an 11* 3w the same way. LOL that is simply a mini driver in my book. A 1w.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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A 15° iron...well...now that just seems absurd.

 

Why? A 3w is 15* loft. If you can hit a 15* 3w, which also will likely have a slightly longer shaft, then you can hit a 15* iron and/or hybrid...in theory.

 

You always hear people complaining about their 3 wood and what the most forgiving is. Now imagine you have JUST the FACE of the 3 wood and nothing behind it :D

[b][color=#8b4513]Wyoming[/color] [color=#ffd700]Cowboys[/color][/b]

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15* is 3w loft territory. Call it a zero iron.

TEE released an eleven degree three wood with the XCG5 series. Big, deep head with a tungsten sole. High speed high-ballers could elevate it off a good fairway lie, no problem. Whether or not it was better than the thirteens is something I'll never be able to tell you.

 

I play a 13* and +1/2" longer CB2 3w as a "driver" next to my 15* standard CB2. I use the 13* sparingly off the deck. It goes farther than the 15*, but not by much to be worth it because it is a hard shot off turf with it.

 

From the tee box it is a different story. The distance and consistency with it is as good as a 460cc 10* driver. It blows away the 15*.

 

For me I would treat an 11* 3w the same way. LOL that is simply a mini driver in my book. A 1w.

I had a CB4 13 degree three. It amazed me how much lower it launched than my driver. Like a one iron, or as I would call it, the long putter.
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A 15° iron...well...now that just seems absurd.

 

Why? A 3w is 15* loft. If you can hit a 15* 3w, which also will likely have a slightly longer shaft, then you can hit a 15* iron and/or hybrid...in theory.

 

You always hear people complaining about their 3 wood and what the most forgiving is. Now imagine you have JUST the FACE of the 3 wood and nothing behind it :D

 

All that means is the feel and feedback would be more harsh. It doesn't mean the chances of contacting the ball at the same spot are any different. The face is what contacts the ball. What's behind it will change the flight characteristics of the launching ball in addition to the feel and feedback, but the point is that the face size and length play more into how you consistently strike a ball with it than what lies behind the face since you still have to return either face to the same spot.

 

I would also bet that a pured 15* blade will feel even more bladey blissful than a pured 17* blade. That stronger loft will put even more total compression on the ball and so the feel of it will be exacerbated.

 

So yeah, the harsh feel of a mishit 15* blade may seem absurd for those fearful of miss hits, but the flipside is that there is going to be blissful blade ball compression from pure strikes with one. And I'll bet that those strikes would be more precise than with a 15* 3w.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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15* is 3w loft territory. Call it a zero iron.

TEE released an eleven degree three wood with the XCG5 series. Big, deep head with a tungsten sole. High speed high-ballers could elevate it off a good fairway lie, no problem. Whether or not it was better than the thirteens is something I'll never be able to tell you.

 

I play a 13* and +1/2" longer CB2 3w as a "driver" next to my 15* standard CB2. I use the 13* sparingly off the deck. It goes farther than the 15*, but not by much to be worth it because it is a hard shot off turf with it.

 

From the tee box it is a different story. The distance and consistency with it is as good as a 460cc 10* driver. It blows away the 15*.

 

For me I would treat an 11* 3w the same way. LOL that is simply a mini driver in my book. A 1w.

I had a CB4 13 degree three. It amazed me how much lower it launched than my driver. Like a one iron, or as I would call it, the long putter.

 

Yeah my 13* CB2 3w launches slightly lower than my CB4 10* driver. I get longer roll out because of it too, and that is why distance is the same.

 

This season for me is going to be interesting and tied to all this discussion. I'm going to play PW-2i and then my 15* 3w and 13* 3w at the top end. I will just see for myself if gaming a 2i is a bad thing. It's a really simple setup and I'm hoping that has some benefit.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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A 15° iron...well...now that just seems absurd.

 

Why? A 3w is 15* loft. If you can hit a 15* 3w, which also will likely have a slightly longer shaft, then you can hit a 15* iron and/or hybrid...in theory.

 

You always hear people complaining about their 3 wood and what the most forgiving is. Now imagine you have JUST the FACE of the 3 wood and nothing behind it :D

 

All that means is the feel and feedback would be more harsh. It doesn't mean the chances of contacting the ball at the same spot are any different. The face is what contacts the ball. What's behind it will change the flight characteristics of the launching ball in addition to the feel and feedback, but the point is that the face size and length play more into how you consistently strike a ball with it than what lies behind the face since you still have to return either face to the same spot.

 

I would also bet that a pured 15* blade will feel even more bladey blissful than a pured 17* blade. That stronger loft will put even more total compression on the ball and so the feel of it will be exacerbated.

 

So yeah, the harsh feel of a mishit 15* blade may seem absurd for those fearful of miss hits, but the flipside is that there is going to be blissful blade ball compression from pure strikes with one. And I'll bet that those strikes would be more precise than with a 15* 3w.

 

I've actually done this. It's not as wonderful as you're thinking it may be. ;)

 

A quick summary might be: I'm a fair proponent of folks trying an iron in the 17*/18* slot, and generally surprised when people say they're impossible to hit. Yet, based on my experience, I'm suggesting a 15* iron isn't a particularly good idea. :pimp:

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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A 15° iron...well...now that just seems absurd.

 

Why? A 3w is 15* loft. If you can hit a 15* 3w, which also will likely have a slightly longer shaft, then you can hit a 15* iron and/or hybrid...in theory.

 

You always hear people complaining about their 3 wood and what the most forgiving is. Now imagine you have JUST the FACE of the 3 wood and nothing behind it :D

 

All that means is the feel and feedback would be more harsh. It doesn't mean the chances of contacting the ball at the same spot are any different. The face is what contacts the ball. What's behind it will change the flight characteristics of the launching ball in addition to the feel and feedback, but the point is that the face size and length play more into how you consistently strike a ball with it than what lies behind the face since you still have to return either face to the same spot.

 

I would also bet that a pured 15* blade will feel even more bladey blissful than a pured 17* blade. That stronger loft will put even more total compression on the ball and so the feel of it will be exacerbated.

 

So yeah, the harsh feel of a mishit 15* blade may seem absurd for those fearful of miss hits, but the flipside is that there is going to be blissful blade ball compression from pure strikes with one. And I'll bet that those strikes would be more precise than with a 15* 3w.

 

I've actually done this. It's not as wonderful as you're thinking it may be. ;)

 

A quick summary might be: I'm a fair proponent of folks trying an iron in the 17*/18* slot, and generally surprised when people say they're impossible to hit. Yet, based on my experience, I'm suggesting a 15* iron isn't a particularly good idea. :pimp:

 

I'm only extrapolating from my 2i experience relative to a 3i. I can see how strengthening loft more and more will reach a point of diminishing returns.

TEE CB2 13* 3w, 43.5", 57g Fujikura Motore F1 X-flex
TEE CB2 15* 3w, 43" 65g Fujikura Motore F1 S-flex
Miura Black Boron 1957 Small Blades 2i-PW, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
Miura Black Wedges 53* and 60*, Nippon NS Pro 850 GH S-flex
GripMaster Club Maker's Stitchback Grips
34" Piretti Bosa, GripMaster Pistol Grip

Registered Bladeocrat
Outlaw Golf Association Member #7

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Well, time to say bye bye to the 690mb's

 

 

Taylormade Sim 9° (set to 7°) - Fuji 53k X 

Cobra Rad Speed Tour 5 Wood 16° - Attas-T2 9x

Mizuno MP Fli Hi 18° - C Taper 125 S+
Mizuno MP Fli Hi 23° - C Taper 120 S
Srixon z785 5-PW - KBS TourV X

Cleveland ZipCore 50° - Tour S400
Ping Glide Pro Forged 54°/ Eye Toe 59°  - Tour S400
Seemore mFGP2 
Podcast - "Rough Fairways - A Journey to the PGA Tour" available on Spotify - Pandora - Apple

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