Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

2 hours ago, Jonesy said:

Finished! liking these, should take at least 2 shots off my round this afternoon... that's how it works right?

 

Two shots at least!

Nice bag. I saw the rest of it in the WiTB thread. How much lead tape did you strap on to the putter? Anyway, that's a bag that screams PLAYER!

 

[BIG STU]

18 minutes ago, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

 

Two shots at least!

Nice bag. I saw the rest of it in the WiTB thread. How much lead tape did you strap on to the putter? Anyway, that's a bag that screams PLAYER!

 

Yep I agree

 

[BIG STU]

On 1/9/2021 at 1:28 AM, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

I picked up some old TM Tour Preferred TD irons the other day. Stainless steel cast blades, with hollow, foam filled long irons from 1i to 4i. I had a set of these when I was younger. Really looking forward to trying them out, but it's freezing here with snow on the ground, so I'll have to wait. Really looking forward to getting out because in my last two practice sessions my swing was really coming back.

I have a bud of mine that is all he plays--- Been playing them since they came out passed his PAT test with them way back-- I do not know how many sets he has now I know every set I run up on I buy and send to him. I think over the years I have sent him 3 sets

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

1 hour ago, BIG STU said:

I have a bud of mine that is all he plays--- Been playing them since they came out passed his PAT test with them way back-- I do not know how many sets he has now I know every set I run up on I buy and send to him. I think over the years I have sent him 3 sets

 

He's been playing them for over 30 years? That's mighty impressive. I take it that he isn't a member of this site😁

They're a great looking club. I'm really enjoying playing with them again after 30 years, but I think forged irons feel better. Oddly, the hollow long irons and the SW feel better than the other irons. When I played them as a junior, I was a bit underwhelmed with the long irons.

 

[TheDeanAbides]

On 1/12/2021 at 4:24 AM, Nard_S said:

You swing to a shaft, the shaft is what it is. You meld and change to it. Obviously it ought to be compatible but no matter, you move to it and it never moves to you. Issues of transition speed, amplitude and tempo are affected sometimes for better sometimes for worse. Once tested an "X" shaft, thought, 'my gosh this is awful', swung them for a month, swing adjusted, started doing better things, now I love them and credit them with improved mechanics, greater distance and dispersion. Most valuable tweaking I've done is figure out gross weight, SW and profile that I am comfortable in. Tough part is answer does not come in a day. 

I feel exactly the same about flat lies. Flatter lie angles force you to adjust and make a better move. 

[nikos74]

Do all golf club sets, especially the irons, have bounce and offset built-in to them?  I am surprised that both my mizuno mp-33s and wilson staff set from 1959 have significant amounts of both.  I thought it was only with cavity back designs.  I guess the point is to prevent digging into the ground with the bounce and to discourage pushed shots for people that don't have a perfectly timed swing.  Is my reasoning sound?  I did purchase a cavity back set from the mid 1990s and was looking to sell it and might still.  I am not trying to start a general conversation between the two types of clubs because most people already know the pros and cons of each.  Specifically cavity backs help the club face get squared at impact due to the perimeter weighting factor.

[TheDeanAbides]

28 minutes ago, nikos74 said:

Do all golf club sets, especially the irons, have bounce and offset built-in to them?  I am surprised that both my mizuno mp-33s and wilson staff set from 1959 have significant amounts of both.  I thought it was only with cavity back designs.  I guess the point is to prevent digging into the ground with the bounce and to discourage pushed shots for people that don't have a perfectly timed swing.  Is my reasoning sound?  I did purchase a cavity back set from the mid 1990s and was looking to sell it and might still.  I am not trying to start a general conversation between the two types of clubs because most people already know the pros and cons of each.  Specifically cavity backs help the club face get squared at impact due to the perimeter weighting factor.

I'm surprised that your Staffs have bounce. All of my classic 50s and 60s Hogans have zero bounce - my Starbursts in my avatar have negative bounce. Pretty much all irons have at least a tiny bit of offset, but it is possible to bend it out of them. 

[nikos74]

2 minutes ago, TheDeanAbides said:

I'm surprised that your Staffs have bounce. All of my classic 50s and 60s Hogans have zero bounce - my Starbursts in my avatar have negative bounce. Pretty much all irons have at least a tiny bit of offset, but it is possible to bend it out of them. 

Yeah I think they have negative bounce on them, but they don't sit perfectly flat on the ground when I rested them on concrete.  But they do have far less bounce than cavity backs in that they don't roll sideways as much as my cavity backs.  The offset doesn't really bother me, in that I adjust at setup to get the target line correct with some forward shaft lean.  I don't think anyone really has a vertical shaft at address.  I was just surprised a bit and decided to mention it.

[TheDeanAbides]

7 minutes ago, nikos74 said:

Yeah I think they have negative bounce on them, but they don't sit perfectly flat on the ground when I rested them on concrete.  But they do have far less bounce than cavity backs in that they don't roll sideways as much as my cavity backs.  The offset doesn't really bother me, in that I adjust at setup to get the target line correct with some forward shaft lean.  I don't think anyone really has a vertical shaft at address.  I was just surprised a bit and decided to mention it.

I have a vertical shaft at address, but I think that's because I'm left eye dominant. 

[NRJyzr]

1 hour ago, TheDeanAbides said:

I'm surprised that your Staffs have bounce. All of my classic 50s and 60s Hogans have zero bounce - my Starbursts in my avatar have negative bounce. Pretty much all irons have at least a tiny bit of offset, but it is possible to bend it out of them. 

 

It's interesting that your older Hogans have no bounce.  In the Apex years, there was a fair amount of bounce in the short and mid irons.  Or so I'm remembering from the specs I've seen.  In the Larry Bobka interview where he talked about the creation of Tiger's irons while at Titleist, Tiger apparently was quite impressed with the bounce of some Apex blades that O'Meara had; they may have been Apex II.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, nikos74 said:

Do all golf club sets, especially the irons, have bounce and offset built-in to them?  I am surprised that both my mizuno mp-33s and wilson staff set from 1959 have significant amounts of both.  I thought it was only with cavity back designs.  I guess the point is to prevent digging into the ground with the bounce and to discourage pushed shots for people that don't have a perfectly timed swing.  Is my reasoning sound?  I did purchase a cavity back set from the mid 1990s and was looking to sell it and might still.  I am not trying to start a general conversation between the two types of clubs because most people already know the pros and cons of each.  Specifically cavity backs help the club face get squared at impact due to the perimeter weighting factor.

 

It varies.  The MP-33 had about 2* or 3* constant bounce, such as memory tells me, while you could find a few degrees more in the older MP-11 / MS-11, and the later MP-37.  MP-14 had less bounce than the MP-11 that preceded them, similar to the MP-33.  Modern Pings have quite a bit, which is in contrast to the Eye2, which actually had negative bounce in the long irons, and zero bounce in the 5 and 6 irons.

 

No across the board rule applies to bounce, I'm afraid.

 

As for offset, most sets now have it, after decades of golfers conditioned to seeing it.  Even Jack Nicklaus liked some offset, which is why the Muirfield irons have some.  There *are* some sets that have little, or even none.  The Tommy Armour 986 Tours are legendary for their lack of offset.  They may be even onset.  There's a company in Canada, Arias, selling zero offset CB irons (they have progressive bounce, also, FWIW).  

 

Weakening lofts will reduce the offset.  I've noticed it on irons that have been adjusted weaker.  It also increases the bounce.

 

Adding a pic of a 986 Tour 6 iron, just for fun.  🙂

[TheDeanAbides]

5 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

It's interesting that your older Hogans have no bounce.  In the Apex years, there was a fair amount of bounce in the short and mid irons.  Or so I'm remembering from the specs I've seen.  In the Larry Bobka interview where he talked about the creation of Tiger's irons while at Titleist, Tiger apparently was quite impressed with the bounce of some Apex blades that O'Meara had; they may have been Apex II.

 

 

 

 

It varies.  The MP-33 had about 2* or 3* constant bounce, such as memory tells me, while you could find a few degrees more in the older MP-11 / MS-11, and the later MP-37.  MP-14 had less bounce than the MP-11 that preceded them, similar to the MP-33.  Modern Pings have quite a bit, which is in contrast to the Eye2, which actually had negative bounce in the long irons, and zero bounce in the 5 and 6 irons.

 

No across the board rule applies to bounce, I'm afraid.

 

As for offset, most sets now have it, after decades of golfers conditioned to seeing it.  Even Jack Nicklaus liked some offset, which is why the Muirfield irons have some.  There *are* some sets that have little, or even none.  The Tommy Armour 986 Tours are legendary for their lack of offset.  They may be even onset.  There's a company in Canada, Arias, selling zero offset CB irons (they have progressive bounce, also, FWIW).  

 

Weakening lofts will reduce the offset.  I've noticed it on irons that have been adjusted weaker.  It also increases the bounce.

 

Adding a pic of a 986 Tour 6 iron, just for fun.  🙂

I can't comment on the 70s really as I've never owned a set of Hogans from that period. I recall that there was a small amount of bounce on my Grinds, and there's a relatively generous amount on my '99s, but nothing on the Starbursts or PC5s, although they're both Slazenger models. 

[NRJyzr]

10 hours ago, Jonesy said:

Finished! liking these, should take at least 2 shots off my round this afternoon... that's how it works right?

 

Memory trigger!

 

One of my buddies messaged me a couple weeks ago, he was overdue for regripping his clubs, and had finally gotten it done, through a local shop.

 

When he's picking up his clubs, the guy at the shop tells him he'll improve his game by six shots per round!  My buddy points out he's already a 5-6 index, he says, you'll be a plus now!  

 

Add some of the infomercial-like clubs/gadgets/shoes/etc currently being advertised, he should start getting ready for the US Amateur.  Or maybe the senior PGA events!  

 

It's only a matter of time now...

 

[BIG STU]

1 hour ago, NRJyzr said:

 

Memory trigger!

 

One of my buddies messaged me a couple weeks ago, he was overdue for regripping his clubs, and had finally gotten it done, through a local shop.

 

When he's picking up his clubs, the guy at the shop tells him he'll improve his game by six shots per round!  My buddy points out he's already a 5-6 index, he says, you'll be a plus now!  

 

Add some of the infomercial-like clubs/gadgets/shoes/etc currently being advertised, he should start getting ready for the US Amateur.  Or maybe the senior PGA events!  

 

It's only a matter of time now...

 

LOL one rainy Saturday we were sitting around the Club Shop ( plenty of beer and bourbon being consumed in the back room) At the time I was playing the Minis and had more than likely a 2 HDCP--- We got to adding up all the golf gizmos on Tv at the time and figured if we spent around $1000 bucks I could be a Plus 6 or 8 handicap. Everyone wanted to chip in and get a piece of my action (again much beer and Bourbon being consumed)  Oh man the memories because us being unaware it started sleeting but that is another story

[Nard_S]

7 hours ago, nikos74 said:

Do all golf club sets, especially the irons, have bounce and offset built-in to them?  I am surprised that both my mizuno mp-33s and wilson staff set from 1959 have significant amounts of both.  I thought it was only with cavity back designs.  I guess the point is to prevent digging into the ground with the bounce and to discourage pushed shots for people that don't have a perfectly timed swing.  Is my reasoning sound?  I did purchase a cavity back set from the mid 1990s and was looking to sell it and might still.  I am not trying to start a general conversation between the two types of clubs because most people already know the pros and cons of each.  Specifically cavity backs help the club face get squared at impact due to the perimeter weighting factor.

Early 90's Maruman MB's  have a boatload of bounce and camber. Offset standard for them seems to be 2.5 mm (.098").

[nikos74]

I found the mizuno mp-33 specs after a very long search.  I had bought the clubs used a few years ago on ebay but had not idea of the details.  Finding data on old clubs is nearly impossible unless you buy specialized books.  Most sites only list details for clubs between 5 to 15 years.

 

CLUB# LOFT LIE LENGTH BOUNCE OFFSET
1 16° 57.0 39.75" 3° .13"
2 19° 57.5 39.25" 3° .11"
3 22° 58.0 38.75" 3° .11"
4 25° 58.5 38.25" 3° .11"
5 28° 59.0 37.75" 4° .11"
6 32° 60.0 37.25" 4° .11"
7 36° 61.0 36.75" 4° .11"
8 40° 62.0 36.25" 5° .11"
9 44° 62.5 35.75" 5° .10"
PW 48° 63.0 35.25" 7° .10"

 

My set was 3 to pw.  I found a 2 iron to complement it but with an s-400 shaft.  Just recently found an s-300 at the correct length and bought it. I just hope the tip fits in the hosel without adapters.  Also found a 1 iron, like trying to find gold on the beach with a metal detector, at $250 when my initial set cost me $150.  Don't think it's worth it.

 

• Grain Flow ForgedTM, 1025 mild carbon steel provides outstanding feel.
• MP-33TM features a classic shape an clean cosmetics.
• Durable double nickel chrome plated with mirror finish.
• Modified U-Grooves produce the ideal spin rate, for maximum playability in all conditions.
• Rolled leading edge, cambered mid-sole, and beveled trailing edge deliver consistent striking ability from all types of lies.
• True Temper® Dynamic Gold® S300 shafts are standard.
• Other shafts available in custom.
• Golf Pride® Tour Velvet grip.

[ALIF]

I got a brand new set of MP 20 MB that will be here Thursday. 4-PW. Last set of blades I played was my 1999 Hogan in Apex. Haven’t had them since 2013. I’ve been playing Pings since then. We’ll see how I do with these blades. They may be on the BST sooner than later. LOL.

[Jonesy]

20 hours ago, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

 

Two shots at least!

Nice bag. I saw the rest of it in the WiTB thread. How much lead tape did you strap on to the putter? Anyway, that's a bag that screams PLAYER!

 

Cheers @No_Catchy_Nickname appreciate it!

There are 2 strips of tape on there, might add a 3rd but I've been happy with it so no need at the moment. Honestly have no idea what the actual head weight is.

[Christen_The_Sloop]

It's been a little over a month since my arm surgery and I'm starting to see the light, as far as a return to golf. Of course, I've been putting and I've had a few short, short chipping sessions. Pretty scary times when you can't even make a proper grip. Still a little ways away from making full swings, but I've been working on my left hand only swing and I'm able to generate a fair amount of speed. Luckily, I have one graphite shafted 4-iron. Swinging with one hand takes a little toll on the left lat - a muscle I haven't used all that much recently.

 

Hoping I can hit the course by April. Starting to consider what my bag is going to look like. TTX100 are going to be awful stout, I think. Might have to hit a local shop and start looking at graphite options, get ahead of my transition to geezer golf. Never been a better time to switch, it looks like. 

 

I've still got TN87 hanging around with Modus3 120s. I've got MS-203 with TTS200. But, i'm not crazy about either of those set-ups right now. Of the two I might try the Faldo design, as I haven't had them out on the course. Maybe before I can hit balls, I ought to finally ship a few sets out into the world.

 

 

[revanant]

New iron update--found a needy set of 4-PW Miura CB-501s in Modus 120 Stiff that needed a good home, so I've decided to adopt them. 
 

The adoption fee was reasonable enough (~$600). I've hit the 7 iron before and came away impressed, and recently had a fun testing experience with the Titleist 620 CBs.

 

 I'm hopeful the Miuras will outdo the 620 CBs on launch/spin/descent for half the price of a new set. If not...well..they're not blades. 😉

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

On 1/21/2021 at 10:48 AM, Christen_The_Sloop said:

It's been a little over a month since my arm surgery and I'm starting to see the light, as far as a return to golf. Of course, I've been putting and I've had a few short, short chipping sessions. Pretty scary times when you can't even make a proper grip. Still a little ways away from making full swings, but I've been working on my left hand only swing and I'm able to generate a fair amount of speed. Luckily, I have one graphite shafted 4-iron. Swinging with one hand takes a little toll on the left lat - a muscle I haven't used all that much recently.

 

Hoping I can hit the course by April. Starting to consider what my bag is going to look like. TTX100 are going to be awful stout, I think. Might have to hit a local shop and start looking at graphite options, get ahead of my transition to geezer golf. Never been a better time to switch, it looks like. 

 

I've still got TN87 hanging around with Modus3 120s. I've got MS-203 with TTS200. But, i'm not crazy about either of those set-ups right now. Of the two I might try the Faldo design, as I haven't had them out on the course. Maybe before I can hit balls, I ought to finally ship a few sets out into the world.

 

 

 

Glad to hear you're on the road to recovery. After a few months off, I imagine the X100s will be too much at first, but don't give up on them. I've been trying softer shafts post-hernia, but that doesn't always equal better.

I bought some old Taylormade TD irons (3-SW) recently with R300 in everything but the SW. I thought I'd manage fine with the R300s now, but I find the timing doesn't work for me. On the other hand, the S300 in the SW felt really goo.

 

A couple of days ago in the local shop I was hitting some beautiful unbranded blades with X100 shafts and I was thinking they were waaaaaayyyyyy too stout for me. Then I tried some Tourstage blades nearby, also with X100 but about 0.5" longer than standard (5i was 38.25") and I was hitting them beautifully and not feeling overwhelmed by the shaft at all. 

 

My MP4s have graphite shafts, some weird ATTAS 115X model, and they're also 0.5" longer than standard (so 5i is 38.25"), and I think they're a really good fit for me. 

Recently I've been noticing that shaft flex and weight matter less to me that the length. They're all important factors, but I'm starting to realize that I can't just pick up any old set of irons and hope to play them if I've got to set up weird to hit them.

[Christen_The_Sloop]

12 hours ago, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

 

Glad to hear you're on the road to recovery. After a few months off, I imagine the X100s will be too much at first, but don't give up on them. I've been trying softer shafts post-hernia, but that doesn't always equal better.

I bought some old Taylormade TD irons (3-SW) recently with R300 in everything but the SW. I thought I'd manage fine with the R300s now, but I find the timing doesn't work for me. On the other hand, the S300 in the SW felt really goo.

 

A couple of days ago in the local shop I was hitting some beautiful unbranded blades with X100 shafts and I was thinking they were waaaaaayyyyyy too stout for me. Then I tried some Tourstage blades nearby, also with X100 but about 0.5" longer than standard (5i was 38.25") and I was hitting them beautifully and not feeling overwhelmed by the shaft at all. 

 

My MP4s have graphite shafts, some weird ATTAS 115X model, and they're also 0.5" longer than standard (so 5i is 38.25"), and I think they're a really good fit for me. 

Recently I've been noticing that shaft flex and weight matter less to me that the length. They're all important factors, but I'm starting to realize that I can't just pick up any old set of irons and hope to play them if I've got to set up weird to hit them.

The MR23 that I have are based off the specs of stock Titleist 990s. When I was testing the 990s, way back in the day, I pured them to hell. That length just seems to work. I think I've got a few other sets in my stable that are a similar length. Anything that gets away from that doesn't bring the joy. 

 

I've been looking at a few sets for when I can get back. I have a mint set of Mizuno MS203 with S200. But, i've also got a set of MS-5 with Dynamic R, and a set of Conductors with an SR shaft. I should sell a few sets and go with graphite. I'm hoping my wrist isn't going to be a big issue going forward, but it may well be and I'm not getting any younger. Before the injury i was really getting comfortable with the X100. They are just so stable and consistent. S400 were really nice too. But, neither of these are looking great this year. 

[Divot License]

I've always felt most comfortable with clubs that are a 1/4" shorted than "standard".  This is working on a basis of a 7 Iron being 37" long. 

 

So i play my 7 Iron 36.75". This is a result of growing up playing Titleist 962B that were just a little shorter than standard.  

 

While 1/4" seems petty this is because I've always held the grip right at the end and is comfortable and having them that little longer just doesn't fit me. If I held them in a conforming manner with a little of the grip sticking out I would play a 37" 7 Iron. 

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

9 hours ago, Christen_The_Sloop said:

The MR23 that I have are based off the specs of stock Titleist 990s. When I was testing the 990s, way back in the day, I pured them to hell. That length just seems to work. I think I've got a few other sets in my stable that are a similar length. Anything that gets away from that doesn't bring the joy. 

 

I've been looking at a few sets for when I can get back. I have a mint set of Mizuno MS203 with S200. But, i've also got a set of MS-5 with Dynamic R, and a set of Conductors with an SR shaft. I should sell a few sets and go with graphite. I'm hoping my wrist isn't going to be a big issue going forward, but it may well be and I'm not getting any younger. Before the injury i was really getting comfortable with the X100. They are just so stable and consistent. S400 were really nice too. But, neither of these are looking great this year. 

I'm actually gravitating towards getting those Tourstages with the longer X100 shafts...

I don't know where I am with shafts. I find the S200/300 to produce mixed results for me. I like--or certainly used to like--X100 especially in the shorter irons, but to be honest found them a bit much in the lower lofted irons. I'd say 4i and lower was too much.

S400 I like, and get good results with them through the set, but they certainly have some heft. I think I need to do some Bryson-like training for them. I*really* like s400 in the wedges, though.

Now, I'm not sure about the Dynamic R and DG R; I've a set of Wilson Staff Blades with R-flex that are, I think, Dynamic R, and I love these irons. The balance is beautiful, and they don't feel too soft at all. But the Taylormade TDs I recently got with R300s DO feel a bit soft. At least, the timing feels different. 

Then on the hand there's that difference between those Tourstages with the X100 at +05" and the non-brand blades with X100 at regular length (5i at around 37.75"). Night and day. Loved the Tourstages, and could really feel the "whump" of the shaft through impact, but the regular length shafts in the other iron just felt like rebar. 

 

58 minutes ago, Jedaigeki said:

I've always felt most comfortable with clubs that are a 1/4" shorted than "standard".  This is working on a basis of a 7 Iron being 37" long. 

 

So i play my 7 Iron 36.75". This is a result of growing up playing Titleist 962B that were just a little shorter than standard.  

 

While 1/4" seems petty this is because I've always held the grip right at the end and is comfortable and having them that little longer just doesn't fit me. If I held them in a conforming manner with a little of the grip sticking out I would play a 37" 7 Iron. 

 

Older Japanese spec irons often have a PW starting at 35" meaning a 7i of 36.75" is actually longer than standard, though modern specs are slightly longer. On the Japanese Mizuno site, the standard length for the Mizuno Pro 120 blade is shown as 36.75". One reason I quickly fell in love with some of my old Mac, Wilson, and RAM blades is because they are US spec, which means about 0.25" longer. My MS-7, which are a US Mizuno model, are longer than my MS-1 irons, which are Japanese spec.

 

Now, like you, I grew up playing Titleist irons for many years; in fact, I got them before my biggest growth spurt. They were probably fine for me at first, but at some point I noticed that I was gripping the very butt end of the club like you. I've tried to change that by going to longer irons, but maybe I should just embrace what I am used to!?

I'd wear out the glove on the pad of the left palm below the little finger because the butt would rub against it on the swing. 

[Christen_The_Sloop]

8 hours ago, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

I'm actually gravitating towards getting those Tourstages with the longer X100 shafts...

I don't know where I am with shafts. I find the S200/300 to produce mixed results for me. I like--or certainly used to like--X100 especially in the shorter irons, but to be honest found them a bit much in the lower lofted irons. I'd say 4i and lower was too much.

S400 I like, and get good results with them through the set, but they certainly have some heft. I think I need to do some Bryson-like training for them. I*really* like s400 in the wedges, though.

Now, I'm not sure about the Dynamic R and DG R; I've a set of Wilson Staff Blades with R-flex that are, I think, Dynamic R, and I love these irons. The balance is beautiful, and they don't feel too soft at all. But the Taylormade TDs I recently got with R300s DO feel a bit soft. At least, the timing feels different. 

Then on the hand there's that difference between those Tourstages with the X100 at +05" and the non-brand blades with X100 at regular length (5i at around 37.75"). Night and day. Loved the Tourstages, and could really feel the "whump" of the shaft through impact, but the regular length shafts in the other iron just felt like rebar. 

 

 

Older Japanese spec irons often have a PW starting at 35" meaning a 7i of 36.75" is actually longer than standard, though modern specs are slightly longer. On the Japanese Mizuno site, the standard length for the Mizuno Pro 120 blade is shown as 36.75". One reason I quickly fell in love with some of my old Mac, Wilson, and RAM blades is because they are US spec, which means about 0.25" longer. My MS-7, which are a US Mizuno model, are longer than my MS-1 irons, which are Japanese spec.

 

Now, like you, I grew up playing Titleist irons for many years; in fact, I got them before my biggest growth spurt. They were probably fine for me at first, but at some point I noticed that I was gripping the very butt end of the club like you. I've tried to change that by going to longer irons, but maybe I should just embrace what I am used to!?

I'd wear out the glove on the pad of the left palm below the little finger because the butt would rub against it on the swing. 

soft step some x100 - and be done with it!

[CTranggggg23]

Currently game the MP-18s and love them (even though I know some others consider them a "chunkier" blade and not as soft as other Mizunos). I've recently fallen for the Titleist 620 mb and am slowly scheming towards buying a set- such a lovely, clean looking blade imo. Anyone have thoughts or experience with the 620s? Especially interested in thoughts on how they feel/perform compared to other blades. 

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

2 hours ago, Christen_The_Sloop said:

soft step some x100 - and be done with it!

 

Heh, that idea has been running through my head recently.

 

I need to follow this up with a picture or two.

 

Later....

[NRJyzr]

6 minutes ago, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

 

Heh, that idea has been running through my head recently.

 

I need to follow this up with a picture or two.

 

Later....

 

I vote for a double softstep of DGX.  🙂

 

[stevechooster]

So I hope I'm in the right thread (or would appreciate it if someone can point me to the right one if this isn't it). 

 

Curious how you guys decided to transition to blades? Just picked it up one day and went from there? Got to a certain handicap? I have P790s and I've also hit some blades (Cobra Forged CB/MB, Titleist 620) at a local shop recently just to try. I obviously understand that it's a less forgiving club/design, but that's what I'm more interested in... learning, getting feedback, and being a student of the game. I'm only a few months into golf, several lessons in (I shoot 90s), but I absolutely love the sport and would really appreciate it if some fellow Golf WRX members can share your own experience on how you ended up with blades.

 

It also doesn't help that something like a Titleist 620 is just absolutely gorgeous lol.  

Edited January 26, 2021 by stevechooster

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

13 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

I vote for a double softstep of DGX.  🙂

 

 

Wouldn't that be an S100....🤔

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

7 minutes ago, stevechooster said:

So I hope I'm in the right thread (or would appreciate it if someone can point me to the right one if this isn't it). 

 

Curious how you guys decided to transition to blades? Just picked it up one day and went from there? Got to a certain handicap? I know it's a subjective topic, but as someone who really wants to invest in learning golf and play it for a long time, I've hit some blades (Cobra Forged CB/MB, Titleist 620) at a local shop. I obviously understand that it's a less forgiving club/design, but that's what I'm more interested in... learning, getting feedback, and being a student of the game. I'm only a few months into golf, several lessons in (I shoot 90s), but I absolutely love the sport and would really appreciate it if some fellow Golf WRX members can share your own experience on how you ended up with blades.

 

It also doesn't help that something like a Titleist 620 is just absolutely gorgeous lol.  

 

Well, in my case I started with cast heel-toe weighted irons (Daiwa Tri-tech, or something like that), which were game-improvement back in the day. We wore an onion on our belts then too because it was the fashion, but that's a story for another day.

After I got down to single figures I decided to get something else, and that's when I went to blades. To be honest, there weren't tons of options back then. Ping EYE2s were probably the leading game improvement iron,  but they were really expensive in Britain, and I wasn't a fan of the offset. There were lots of EYE2 copies, but again, I wasn't a fan of the offset. 

 

I guess I've always liked a fairly thin top line, compact head, and not a lot of offset. 

 

Some things never change.

 

But I don't wear an onion on my belt anymore.