Reshafting irons for the first time and what epoxy to use

[Pouch]

HI,

I am looking for some help as I am hoping to try and remove some old shafts from a set of Titleist 718 AP2's and replace them with my current Shimada Pro's which are currently in my set of 714 AP2's

This is the first time I will be reshafting any clubs so looking for any help or tips that may come in useful are greatly appreciated.

I would also like to check if this new Loctite HY 4070 epoxy will be suitable for the job as we sell numerous loctite products and have this on the shelf

Here is the link to the spec of it

https://tdsna.henkel.com/NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/4C6E8EE50B4C2765852580A70055C71D/$File/HY%204070-EN.pdf

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/gr/en/product/structural-adhesives/loctite_hy_4070.html

I am looking forward to trying this but also a little paranoid as I am an avid golfer playing off 2 and love the idea of being able to sort out my own clubs going forward

Thanks in advance for any help and advice it will be greatly appreicated

[Adam C]

Seems like the lap sheer is in the range you want it, from what I read on your sheet, between 1500 and 4000 covers most golf type epoxies.

[Socrates]

The strength is okay. As with most fast cure epoxies, this may be brittle when cured and might not withstand golf use. It is noted that you need to be precise mixing this epoxy as it is a 10:1 ratio.

[Golfrnut]

I have recently become a fan of the stuff from Brampton....moving on from the golfworks epoxy.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=brampton+epoxy&ref=nb_sb_noss

 

That being said, whatever you choose to use, I would recommend something that's got a fairly long work time. If you are new to this, your going to fumble around a little bit, stumble around a few times, make a few errors, etc...it's all part of the learning process. The longer work time will help. It will take you a bit longer before you can play them, but it's worth it in my opinion.

[dubbelbogey]

I did notice that this stuff, while a two-part formulation, isn't really an epoxy.

Sounds potentially more expensive than a regular epoxy.

[Stuart_G]

> @Pouch said:

> I would also like to check if this new Loctite HY 4070 epoxy will be suitable for the job as we sell numerous loctite products and have this on the shelf

> Here is the link to the spec of it

> https://tdsna.henkel.com/NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/4C6E8EE50B4C2765852580A70055C71D/$File/HY%204070-EN.pdf

> https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/gr/en/product/structural-adhesives/loctite_hy_4070.html

> I am looking forward to trying this but also a little paranoid as I am an avid golfer playing off 2 and love the idea of being able to sort out my own clubs going forward

> Thanks in advance for any help and advice it will be greatly appreicated

 

I don't think that's really an epoxy. My main concern would be the Hot Strength - what might happen when it comes time to pull. No nice drop off at a certain temp like most epoxy used in golf clubs and still at > 15% strength at 250* F. Might be usable with steel but I wouldn't want to risk a graphite shaft with that stuff w/o some pretty extensive testing first.

 

Also, can't speak to that hybrid variant but most cyanoacrylate glues can get very brittle and dont' handle impact forces very well at all - so not really the best for the golf industry applications.

 

[Pouch]

Hi all,

Really appreciate the quick response I have had from yourselves and have found the info a great help, with regards the loctite product I will put that back on my shelf and leave it alone.

[Pouch]

> @Golfrnut said:

> I have recently become a fan of the stuff from Brampton....moving on from the golfworks epoxy.

> https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=brampton+epoxy&ref=nb_sb_noss

>

> That being said, whatever you choose to use, I would recommend something that's got a fairly long work time. If you are new to this, your going to fumble around a little bit, stumble around a few times, make a few errors, etc...it's all part of the learning process. The longer work time will help. It will take you a bit longer before you can play them, but it's worth it in my opinion.

 

I like the look of this stuff, I have used the Brampton tape solvent to regrip my clubs and had no issues so will give it a go.

I just want to check though as you have highlighted the quick cure which is fine but on the brampton website its says it's only for a one club repair, would there be enough to do 10 irons??

[Golfrnut]

> @Pouch said:

> > @Golfrnut said:

> > I have recently become a fan of the stuff from Brampton....moving on from the golfworks epoxy.

> > https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=brampton+epoxy&ref=nb_sb_noss

> >

> > That being said, whatever you choose to use, I would recommend something that's got a fairly long work time. If you are new to this, your going to fumble around a little bit, stumble around a few times, make a few errors, etc...it's all part of the learning process. The longer work time will help. It will take you a bit longer before you can play them, but it's worth it in my opinion.

>

> I like the look of this stuff, I have used the Brampton tape solvent to regrip my clubs and had no issues so will give it a go.

> I just want to check though as you have highlighted the quick cure which is fine but on the brampton website its says it's only for a one club repair, would there be enough to do 10 irons??

 

I use the quicker curing stuff, I think 5/15, can work pretty fast, and I can get 3 clubs done and whiped clean safely in that amount of time. Workability is very short.

I would suggest the 20/20, and don't try to do a bunch of clubs all at the same time. Just mix enough for one or two at a time. Get the bottles and not the cartridges, you don't have to use it all at once.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brampton-PRO-FIX-8oz-Epoxy-2-4oz/dp/B011GMKNX4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=brampton+epoxy&qid=1560354296&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://bramptontechnology.com/pro-fix-2020-long-cure/

 

 

[Golfrnut]

The forum change porked the thread I had with all the pictures, but I did a help guide some time ago on shaft removal/install. I converted to pdf so you can download.

https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/935266/part-1-and-2-steel-shaft-removal-and-install-tutorial-install-on-post-22/p1

Not perfect, but it won't steer you wrong....

[JStang]

I use the GolfWorks High Impact epoxy. It is the strongest that I have used. It takes 2-3 times longer under heat to break a head loose using this epoxy compared to what the OEM's use. I would say that it's overkill but I haven't had any issues with it.

[PorkChopExpress]

3M DP420 (or DP810), bramptons are all good stuff. 3M DP420/dp460 is quality stuff but spendy.

The prep work is just as critical ensuring proper bond.

First timers, plungers make it easier for dispensing epoxy in proper ratios. Separate bottles are cheaper in the long run but pending ratio, can get tricky.

3M has tips to help with mixing and dispensing, though they cost significantly more.

 

And as a first timer, you'll use way too much epoxy the first few times :)

[giogolf]

> @JStang said:

> I use the GolfWorks High Impact epoxy. It is the strongest that I have used. It takes 2-3 times longer under heat to break a head loose using this epoxy compared to what the OEM's use. I would say that it's overkill but I haven't had any issues with it.

 

Same here.. using for 5 years and 0 failures

[Nessism]

I typically use 3M DP420/460 but recently bought some Loctite E-60HP epoxy because frankly, it's cheaper but still high quality industrial grade material. I've built scads of clubs with the Golfworks High Impact and it's fine enough, but I'm not a fan of Bramptons 20-20 because it was thin and runny.

[mogc60]

Jb weld steel mix epoxy. Not regular...the steel mix. Walmart $5.59. Thousands of shafts done and never had a failure. Hittable in an hour.

[Nessism]

> @mogc60 said:

> Jb weld steel mix epoxy. Not regular...the steel mix. Walmart $5.59. Thousands of shafts done and never had a failure. Hittable in an hour.

 

Thousands?

[tokeyb]

Did my first set this winter, Brampton 20/20 and it worked great! Quite proud of the work, frankly. In the winter it was a Nice gooey mix, but,last week in the heat it was definitely thinner.

Follow the dorections and you'll be fine.

[mogc60]

> @Nessism said:

> > @mogc60 said:

> > Jb weld steel mix epoxy. Not regular...the steel mix. Walmart $5.59. Thousands of shafts done and never had a failure. Hittable in an hour.

>

> Thousands?

Yes...thousands. I’ve been doing club repair for 25 years. Plus my own...lol. Trust me mines a lot.

 

 

[Thayneil]

> @mogc60 said:

> Jb weld steel mix epoxy. Not regular...the steel mix. Walmart $5.59. Thousands of shafts done and never had a failure. Hittable in an hour.

 

how about shaft removal? Heard a real bind and will destroy graphite shafts before shaft is removed

[mogc60]

I haven’t had any issues with shaft removal with a good shaft extractor

[cristphoto]

I've used Loctite Epoxy for Metal and Concrete for years with good results. It's rated for 3200 pound shear strength and is more than adequate for golf club assembly. Sets up in under 15 minutes and cures in 24 hours. One to one mix makes it easy to work with. Most good hardware stores will carry it.

[8602081]

I've done several sets of irons (metal and graphite).. I use the General Purpose Loctite 5 minute Epoxy.. 3400psi.. It's only $3 at walmart.

You only need one to do pw-5..

 

[https://walmart.com/ip/Loctite-Loctite-0-85-fl-oz-Clear-Quick-Set-Epoxy/20470699](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Loctite-Loctite-0-85-fl-oz-Clear-Quick-Set-Epoxy/20470699 "https://walmart.com/ip/Loctite-Loctite-0-85-fl-oz-Clear-Quick-Set-Epoxy/20470699")

[Pouch]

Hi all,

thanks for all of the feedback, I have just had a response from our technical rep at loctite and he has said that Ping have used loctite products for years on all of their golf clubs, if you google ping and loctite plenty should come up so you can have a look. On the video it shows a product called 10c but can't find this anywhere so it may be only available to the oem and not the general public.

He did suggest this product though which we currently sell so thinking of trying it when I come to do my clubs but just wondering what you guys think as he says it has high lap shear strength but also a high repetitive shock strength as this loctite ea 9466 is a toughened epoxy

http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/ShowPDF/EA%209466-EN?pid=EA%209466&format=MTR&subformat=REAC&language=EN&plant=WERCS

 

[Stuart_G]

I don't see any issues with that - should work fine.

 

[Nessism]

> @Pouch said:

> Hi all,

> thanks for all of the feedback, I have just had a response from our technical rep at loctite and he has said that Ping have used loctite products for years on all of their golf clubs, if you google ping and loctite plenty should come up so you can have a look. On the video it shows a product called 10c but can't find this anywhere so it may be only available to the oem and not the general public.

> He did suggest this product though which we currently sell so thinking of trying it when I come to do my clubs but just wondering what you guys think as he says it has high lap shear strength but also a high repetitive shock strength as this loctite ea 9466 is a toughened epoxy

> http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/ShowPDF/EA%209466-EN?pid=EA%209466&format=MTR&subformat=REAC&language=EN&plant=WERCS

>

 

The data sheet shows that stuff weakens significantly with temperature; strength drops 75% at 120 F. I think E-60HP is a better product for golf clubs. I just finished a build using it and like it. The viscosity is high so no sagging. Only negative is you need to buy a gun to dispense from the cartridge.

[johngalt312]

While I continue to use 3M DP460 and 3M DP460NS, I am going to try out 3M DP810 with a heat cure (160* for four minutes), mostly out of curiosity.  Ping used to use Loctite 10C Hysol + EPKC Hysol, however, their current epoxy is most certainly 3M, green or blue-green in color, available in 400mL cartridges with a tan colored wrapper, and a 1:1 or 2:1 mixture (I believe 1:1).  In cross referencing the preceding known attributes against all of 3M’s structural epoxies (and presuming their epoxy is not some sort of bespoke 3M blend, which I don’t think it is).m, I am confident that they are currently using 3M DP810 plus a heat cure.  Less likely 3M DP810NS, even less likely 3M DP8805NS Green, 3M DP8810NS Green, or 3M DP8825NS Green, and most unlikely 3M DP8405NS Green, 3M DP8410NS Green, or 3M DP8425NS Green.

[A.Princey]

JB Weld, "Clear Weld" (Sets in 5min, cures in 1-2 hours). Works perfect and doesn't take as much heat to break down as their Steel Weld does, but is almost as strong. I've done many a club with zero failures. 

Edited September 13, 2020 by A.Princey

[Taylormadehunter1]

I personally use the Brampton 15&5. Never had a failure with it and I can usually build a club with it at my house and by the time I get to the range it’s ready to use. 

[poppman2142]

I use 3m dp810 black for graphite and dp810ns for steel shafts. Expensive but have never had a failure or pop or creak. 

[Nessism]

On 9/13/2020 at 6:42 AM, johngalt312 said:

While I continue to use 3M DP460 and 3M DP460NS, I am going to try out 3M DP810 with a heat cure (160* for four minutes), mostly out of curiosity.  Ping used to use Loctite 10C Hysol + EPKC Hysol, however, their current epoxy is most certainly 3M, green or blue-green in color, available in 400mL cartridges with a tan colored wrapper, and a 1:1 or 2:1 mixture (I believe 1:1).  In cross referencing the preceding known attributes against all of 3M’s structural epoxies (and presuming their epoxy is not some sort of bespoke 3M blend, which I don’t think it is).m, I am confident that they are currently using 3M DP810 plus a heat cure.  Less likely 3M DP810NS, even less likely 3M DP8805NS Green, 3M DP8810NS Green, or 3M DP8825NS Green, and most unlikely 3M DP8405NS Green, 3M DP8410NS Green, or 3M DP8425NS Green.

 

I started using DP8410NS after a fair bit of research trying to solve a bonding issue with some Ping G410's which have a short insertion depth.  This stuff is of newer technology then DP810 but it's similar in that both are acrylic adhesives, not epoxy.  It cures fast and sticks well to metal, even if the cleaning isn't perfect.  It's got a higher temperature capability than 810 too, which is a bonus because 810 is borderline in that regard.  As a bonus it's cheap, although you need to buy a dispensing gun that uses a 10:1 plunger.  Highly recommended.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOQ71JA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited September 14, 2020 by Nessism