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SIM driver guys - talk about it


getitdaily

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Another fantastic day with the sim. I swapped my hzrdus black smoke 70g 6.5 for an atmos blue ts 6x. Fantastic combo!!

I think the smoke is a hair longer, i suspect lower spin. The atmos feels better later in the round. Smoother overall feel.

PXG Black Ops Tour driver 

PXG Black Ops 3 wood

PXG Black Ops 17* hybrid

TaylorMade P770 4-9 KBS Tour

TaylorMade MG4 46/52/58wedges

Bettinardi BB1 putter

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Bought a SIM when first released with a Ventus Black and it was just so short on distance. Shaft was totally wrong for me and I wish I could try it with my current Diamana DF. Still didn't like the blue color and felt the face was too shallow for my liking though. Will definitely do some testing between the new Titleist driver this fall and see what TM comes out with next. M5 was a bust for me as I still prefer the older M1 as the best TM driver for me.

Titleist TSR3 8 deg - Fujikura Ventus TR Black 6X

Titleist TSi3 15 deg - Fujikura Ventus Black 8X

Titleist TSR3 19 deg - Fujikura Ventus Black HB 9TX

Titleist T200 4 - TT DG TI X100

Titleist T100 (2019) 5-PW - TT DG TI X100

Vokey SM10 Jet Black 50.12 F - TT DG TI X100

Vokey SM10 Jet Black 54.14 F - TT DG TI S400

Vokey SM10 Jet Black 58.08 M - TT DG TI S400

Scotty Cameron Phantom X 5.5

Titleist ProV1

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Unbelievably good. SIM Max won out by just a hair, but both were noticeably better across the board from anything else. TS2 was a distant second and the only other driver that felt remotely close.

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I have a feeling I would like the ts2 more with that titanium feel :)

Anyway sim max do work quite well. The problem I have now is the ability to shot shape. The old constant fades/slices was mentally taxing but probably safer. Now I can produce draws and going for it more but thats risky and my aiming need to be redone. Or I go back to the old. Dont grip down and the ability to go for it or produce draws is gone.

Anyway hit my first 250 metre drive today so its working :)

 

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I am still a big fan of this driver, and feel I have it really dialed.

Driver: Paradym 3D Ventus black TR 6x

3 wood: Paradym 3d Ventus black TR 7x

19 degree UW: Ventus black TR 8x

Mizuno Pro Fli Hi 4 utility Hazrdus black 90 6.5 X

5 -PW: Callaway Apex MB, KBS $ taper 130X

Wedges - Jaws raw 50, 54, 59 KBS $ taper 130x

Putter- Mutant Wilson Staff 8802 with stroke lab shaft
BALL; Chrome Soft X

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Played today and noticed a rattle in my Sim Max driver head. No epoxy issues with the shaft and the driver head is not hot melted or anything. The weight screw was not loose by much just adjusted a little after my round since I didn’t have that wrench with me. Weird thing is it would rattle a bit for a few holes and than it would stop and I could not replicate it. Anyone else have that issue? I know it’s under warranty but I can’t duplicate It so TM won’t honor unless they can rattle it themselves. Hopefully it was just the back weight needing a little tightening but did not think it would be that loud when I shook the club head. Everyone in the group heard it rattle!

[font=lucida sans unicode,lucida grande,sans-serif][size=3]TM M6 9 deg.w/ Tensei Pro White 70TX[/size]
[size=3]TM SIM Ti 15deg w/ Tensei Pro White 80TX[/size]
[size=3]​TM P790 3i w/ Tensei Pro White 90TX[/size]
[size=3]TM P790 4i w/ Nippon 125X[/size]
[size=3]Srixon 765 5-PW w/ Nippon 125X[/size]
[size=3]TM Milled Grind 50deg, 54deg, and 58deg High Toe w/ Nippon 125X[/size]
[size=3]TM Spider X Copper[/size][/font]

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This is a classic problem. While you may not have added any hotmelt, there is normally something (rattle stop, rat glue etc) put in there to catch errant pieces of either epoxy residue from crowns and something that sneaks in through a screw hole. The rattle is stopping because it is being temporarily caught by the glue in the head, but the piece might be big enough that it is occasionally breaking loose again. If it comes loose again, you'll want to remove the back weight and see if you can shake it out the screw hole there. You can also gently heat up the bottom of the head to soften the glue in hopes that the piece of debris gets absorbed into the glue further. This might be a little riskier with multi material head construction though, so i'd go with the former.

Titleist TSi3 9* Tensei AV White 65TX 2.0 // Taylormade SIM 10.5* Ventus TR Blue 6TX
Taylormade Qi10 15* Tensei AV White 85TX 1.0 // Taylormade Stealth+ 16* Ventus Black 8x
Callaway Apex UW 19* Ventus Black 8x // Srixon ZX Utility MKII 19* Nippon GOST Prototype Hybrid 10
Callaway X-Forged Single♦️  22* Nippon GOST Tour X  // Bridgestone J15 CB 4i Raw Nippon GOST Tour X
Bridgestone 
J15 CB 5i-7i 26*- 34* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 6.8-7.0
Bridgestone J40 CB 8i-PW 38*- 46* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Vokey SM9 50* Raw F-Grind Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0

Taylormade Milled Grind Raw 54* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Vokey SM6 58* Oil Can Low Bounce K-Grind Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Scotty Cameron Newport Tour Red Dot // Taylormade Spider X Navy Slant

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Ok thanks so it’s glue most likely and not a broken metal piece in the driver head? Performance wise it wasn’t a problem just annoying. But if it’s a metal piece would that affect performance? I’ll try taking the weight off in the back and see if the piece falls out hopefully. If I can’t get it out and it more consistently rattling hopefully TM will replace it.

[font=lucida sans unicode,lucida grande,sans-serif][size=3]TM M6 9 deg.w/ Tensei Pro White 70TX[/size]
[size=3]TM SIM Ti 15deg w/ Tensei Pro White 80TX[/size]
[size=3]​TM P790 3i w/ Tensei Pro White 90TX[/size]
[size=3]TM P790 4i w/ Nippon 125X[/size]
[size=3]Srixon 765 5-PW w/ Nippon 125X[/size]
[size=3]TM Milled Grind 50deg, 54deg, and 58deg High Toe w/ Nippon 125X[/size]
[size=3]TM Spider X Copper[/size][/font]

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It is most likely a small piece of excess epoxy from the seam between the carbon crown and the metal head. Extremely unlikely that it is a piece of metal, unless it is something like a little burr left over from machining. Nothing detrimental either way, just annoying as you've found.

Titleist TSi3 9* Tensei AV White 65TX 2.0 // Taylormade SIM 10.5* Ventus TR Blue 6TX
Taylormade Qi10 15* Tensei AV White 85TX 1.0 // Taylormade Stealth+ 16* Ventus Black 8x
Callaway Apex UW 19* Ventus Black 8x // Srixon ZX Utility MKII 19* Nippon GOST Prototype Hybrid 10
Callaway X-Forged Single♦️  22* Nippon GOST Tour X  // Bridgestone J15 CB 4i Raw Nippon GOST Tour X
Bridgestone 
J15 CB 5i-7i 26*- 34* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 6.8-7.0
Bridgestone J40 CB 8i-PW 38*- 46* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Vokey SM9 50* Raw F-Grind Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0

Taylormade Milled Grind Raw 54* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Vokey SM6 58* Oil Can Low Bounce K-Grind Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
Scotty Cameron Newport Tour Red Dot // Taylormade Spider X Navy Slant

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Same issue. Sounded more like the rattle from the screw when the shaft is out, so I tightened the back weight and that seems to have done the trick.

Ping G425 Max 9*, Aldila Rogue White 70s

Titleist TS3 4 wood, Diamana Kal’li 70s

New Level 902 PD, PX 6.5

Vokey SM9 52*, PX 6.5

Vokey SM9 56*, PX 6.5 

Odyssey White Hot OG 7CH

 

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Awesome thanks for replies! I’m glad that was the fix!!

[font=lucida sans unicode,lucida grande,sans-serif][size=3]TM M6 9 deg.w/ Tensei Pro White 70TX[/size]
[size=3]TM SIM Ti 15deg w/ Tensei Pro White 80TX[/size]
[size=3]​TM P790 3i w/ Tensei Pro White 90TX[/size]
[size=3]TM P790 4i w/ Nippon 125X[/size]
[size=3]Srixon 765 5-PW w/ Nippon 125X[/size]
[size=3]TM Milled Grind 50deg, 54deg, and 58deg High Toe w/ Nippon 125X[/size]
[size=3]TM Spider X Copper[/size][/font]

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Well I ended up buying a SIM, now just to wait for it to get here.

I went with it over the Mavrik because I fade on my misses and I think I'll have better adjustability to counter that with the SIM than the Mavrik. Hopefully I'm right!

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If your miss is a fade the SIM is the worst driver this year. It's a fade/cut machine and guys have had to loft up and do other fixes to counter it. Theres a large thread in the tech forum.

PRDYMTC TOUR  9.8° + UB6 / PRDYMTC  15°@16 + UB7 / AI SMOKE 21° + UB8 G430 26°@25+ IZ95 / FRGD TEC5-G + MODUS115 / MD5TC / SC PHNTM7.5

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Hate to say it but the Sim is drastically more fade bias than the Mavrik. I would suggest going upright from the start as the Sim is like 4 degrees flatter than Mav out of the box. As someone who’s miss is a push fade, the Sim is only remotely usable with weight in heel and on upright setting. Even at that I don’t get along with it.

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While I know there is a thread that details as such, I think the combo of how shafts play in the head is more prevalent than the head being fade biased itself.

I actually play my 10.5 one click lower with the sliding weight toward the fade side, and with my Atmos Black 7x untipped at 44.5” I’ve hit maybe 10 fades unintentionally all year. The rest have been a draw

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Link to this huge thread? I couldn't find it.

I've actually owned both the 9 and 10.5 Sim heads and haven't found them to be any more fade bias than ts3 or mavrik sub zero. Yes, slight fade bias, but not huuuge like some say. That's the way most players drivers are now days. There's always the d type...

PXG Black Ops Tour driver 

PXG Black Ops 3 wood

PXG Black Ops 17* hybrid

TaylorMade P770 4-9 KBS Tour

TaylorMade MG4 46/52/58wedges

Bettinardi BB1 putter

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I've had my SIM 10.5* for a couple of weeks now. I ordered it with the stock Diamana Stiff shaft and an extra 10g weight. I was coming from the M3 9.5* (Hot melted to 205g) that I've used with a few different shafts. The shaft I've been using for most of the summer has been the Rogue Silver 60s (original one) at 45". It was a pretty good combination for me, but a bit spinny. I tried the SIM with the Rogue Silver for a few rounds and my good shots were definitely longer than the M3, but it wasn't as consistent. I tried it at the standard loft setting and 1 click lower, with one weight closer to the heel and the other slightly towards the toe from center, and was more consistent at 10.5*.

I decided to try the stock Diamana after cutting it down to play at 45" on the range one click lower this weekend, and the SIM was a completely different driver for me. Ball just wanted to stay straight to a slight cut for me. Launch was higher and lower spinning than my SIM as well. Yesterday was my first round with the Diamana on a familiar course, and I was doing much better off the tee than I normally do on that course in terms of accuracy. I don't know the last time I played a stock shaft that came with a driver or wood, but it looks like this Diamana will be in the SIM for a while.

WITB
Driver: 10.5* Stealth 2 Plus set 1 click lower upright setting- Accra FX 2.0 270 M4 

Fairways & Hybrids: TM Stealth2 Plus 5 wood turned down to 17* (AV Raw White 75s); 21* Callaway UW (Tour AD TP 8s); 
Irons: Srixon MKII ZX5 4 Iron (Recoil Utility 110 F4), 5-PW Srixon ZX7 (DG AMT White s300)
Wedges: Tour Satin Cleveland RTX6 48* Mid bent to 49* and 52* bent to 54*;  RTX Zipcore Tour Rack Raw 56* Mid bent to 58* (All wedges with DGTI s400 shafts)

Putter: Toulon Las Vegas h4.5 or Kingston KP1 Carbon Oil Can (both with Stability Tour Black shafts)

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Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll see what I can do to adjust if I start seeing that. The Sub Zero and SIM played similarly when I was fitted, including fading as a lefty, but I think I can adjust the SIM more to compensate, where the Mavrik doesn't have as much to help IMO.

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In that thread there are some responses that talk about how tour guys are setting up their drivers....heavy weight in back, loft down, upright lie, lighter weight upfront.

I ordered a 21g weight for the back. I have two 4g weights for the front (only using 1 at the moment). I'm going to do some testing soon to see what happens.

Current setup - standard back weight, 10g in heel, 4g in center, upright lie, std loft

"Tour type" setup - 21g back weight, 4g in heel, 4g somewhere else. Not sure where loft will be. Will likely stay in upright lie.

Results in a couple of weeks.

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If I never see a ball go right (I'm a lefty) again I'm a happy camper.

 

I have the SIM 10.5 cranked completely open and in the fade setting. I know many make it come across like a negative but its the complete opposite for me.

 

This club has essentially eliminated one side of the course as far as a miss goes.

 

 

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Interesting to see what you say about the tour guys, i've not heard that one. Strangely though, i bought an 8 degree head on it's own and put a shaft in that was 3/8ths of an inch shorter. I put it up against my gamer, an 8.5 SZ triple diamond, which i found to be a brilliant driver, and the Sim had it by 6yds average. Thinking it felt a bit light i brought the swingweight up a bit by adding another 3g's upfront. Now it just doesnt feel the same club and i'm sure the distance has gone back. Now wondering if i should have gone with more backweight.

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Just been dabbling in the garage. Swapped front weight back to normal, set it a bit on the fade side, slapped just over an inch of lead tape stuck over the back weight. Set the loft down another click so it's now 8 minus 2 clicks, std lie angle. Hope my dodgy elbow feels a bit better to blast a few at lunch time tomorrow.

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