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What iron do you use when working on drills?


jonsnow

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Usually 6-8.

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Mizuno T20 47-07 PX 6.5

Mizuno T22 52-09 56-10 PX 6.5

Vokey SM9 60-04T PX Wedge 6.5
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ProV1x

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I was told, long ago, to use the club(s) you'd hit from 150. It's a long enough shot/club to expose contact and face angle changes while being short enough to not wreck your confidence and commitment to stick with it. 

 

For me, it's 7, 8, 9 iron until I feel like I'm really understanding whatever move I'm trying to make, then moving to the 4 and 5 irons to test myself.

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Usually a 9 iron hitting it around 100 yards then 120 as I get more comfortable.  After a while of that I go to 7 iron out to 140

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FWY: Sim 2 Ti w/ TenseiAV Raw Blue 75x
Hybrid: Srixon MKII 18* MMT 105x
Irons: Srixon Zx7 MKII Project X 6.5
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1 hour ago, Long_Left said:

I was told, long ago, to use the club(s) you'd hit from 150. It's a long enough shot/club to expose contact and face angle changes while being short enough to not wreck your confidence and commitment to stick with it. 

 

For me, it's 7, 8, 9 iron until I feel like I'm really understanding whatever move I'm trying to make, then moving to the 4 and 5 irons to test myself.

 

This makes a lot of sense. 

 

18 hours ago, Kuuuch said:

I’ve always liked starting with a wedge then as I get better at the movement PW then 8/7 iron. 
 

Much easier imo to feel something new with a wedge vs 7 iron then work your way up.


I believe I saw Monte post this a long time ago and it’s stuck with me ever since. 

 

I don't think I've seen that. I've always heard him say that most of the movement changes are best drilled at half speed. But I've never heard him suggest starting with a wedge. 

 

Per what @Long_Left said, I think that's why the 7/8 iron works so well. If you're doing a movement drill at half-speed with a 4i, you don't have enough speed to even elevate the ball. If it's a wedge, it's a club short enough that you may not expose the problems with contact that you'll start finding when you get to longer clubs. 

 

So that range is kind of a "goldilocks" area IMHO for working on a swing change. 

 

2 hours ago, SNIPERBBB said:

No self-respecting fan of Tin Cup uses anything other than the 7 iron for drills. 

 

I grew up (like many kids) with a 3/5/7/9 iron set, which meant that range work was primarily with the 7i. So for a long time, it was like Tin Cup. I always felt REALLY confident with a 7i in my hand, like I couldn't miss. 

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Sub70 286 52/10, 286 56/12, and JB 60/6 wedges, black, built to 36.75" w/ Nippon Modus3 120 stiff

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1 hour ago, betarhoalphadelta said:

 

This makes a lot of sense. 

 

 

I don't think I've seen that. I've always heard him say that most of the movement changes are best drilled at half speed. But I've never heard him suggest starting with a wedge. 

 

Per what @Long_Left said, I think that's why the 7/8 iron works so well. If you're doing a movement drill at half-speed with a 4i, you don't have enough speed to even elevate the ball. If it's a wedge, it's a club short enough that you may not expose the problems with contact that you'll start finding when you get to longer clubs. 

 

So that range is kind of a "goldilocks" area IMHO for working on a swing change. 

 

 

I grew up (like many kids) with a 3/5/7/9 iron set, which meant that range work was primarily with the 7i. So for a long time, it was like Tin Cup. I always felt REALLY confident with a 7i in my hand, like I couldn't miss. 

Could be wrong about Monte saying that but to each their own. After having nearly ~50  lessons consistently over the past 8 or so years, I would say every change is also a little bit different. Some I've seen the best results from doing half speed work, drills, some starting the change with wedges etc. Take improving wrist set for example, way way easier to learn the motion imo with a wedge first before starting with 8/7 iron. 

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I like to use 6 or 7 vs a wedge.  Too much loft can hide some shot flaws that I can otherwise see much clearer with a longer iron.

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Driver:  TaylorMade Sim2 Max / 10 Deg / Fujikura Ventus Blue 6S / Lamkin Crossline
3W:  Titleist TSR3 HL  / 16.5 Deg / ProjectX HZRDUS Black 4g Stiff / Lamkin Crossline

7W:  Titleist TSR2  /  20.25 Deg  / Mitsubishi Tensei Blue AV 65 Stiff  /  Lamkin Crossline

9W:  Titleist TSR1  /  23 Deg  /  Mitsubishi Tensei Blue AV 75 Stiff  /  Lamkin Crossline

5i - 7i:  Sub70 659CB Raw  /  KBS Tour-V 90 Black PVD Steel Stiff /  3* Upright  +1/4" Long  /  Lamkin Crossline Midsize

8i - GW:  Sub70 659TC Raw  /  KBS Tour-V 90 Black PVD Steel Stiff  /  3* Upright  +1/4" Long  /  Lamkin Crossline Midsize

SW:  Sub70 JB Forged Wedge Full Groove Raw 55 Deg  /  KBS Tour-V 130 Black PVD Steel X-Stiff 8i soft stepped  /  3* Upright  +1/4" Long  /  Lamkin Crossline Midsize

LW:  Sub70 JB Forged Wedge Full Groove Raw 60 Deg  /  KBS Tour-V 130 Black PVD Steel X-Stiff 8i soft stepped  /  3* Upright  +1/4" Long  /  Lamkin Crossline Midsize

Putter:  Bell Putters Bell 410

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21 hours ago, ReefDonkey said:

I like to use 6 or 7 vs a wedge.  Too much loft can hide some shot flaws that I can otherwise see much clearer with a longer iron.

 I went through a pretty complete rebuild in the early 1990sand spent most of a year doing nothing but drills with my 6-iron per my teacher's instructions .Had to regrip it twice before any other clubs needed a new grip. 

Edited by jonsnow
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I like a mix. I’ll start with anything from 7-P and then mix in a 5/6 or even a hybrid to make sure I can execute whatever change in working on with a less forgiving club. When I’m struggling with sequencing one of my favorite things to do is try to hit a 9 iron 100 yards, then an 8 iron 100 yards, and so on until I can’t work any higher in the bag (usually cap out with the 4h).

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Any club ... I just am only trying to hit the shot 1/2 to 3/4 swing length 

 

The only drills I do non putting

 

1) 3/4 freezers

2) bottom hand short game

3) I will putt a range basket behind ball and just outside the toe of the club, hitting 3/4 swings and trying to hit draws

4) slow motion swings with no balls

 

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Driver: PXG 9* ; HZDRUS Handcrafted 63 6.0

Long Game: PXG 13*, PXG 16*; HZDRUS Handcrafted 83 6.5 (flip between the two)

Driving Iron: PXG 0311 4 iron bent 17.5*; ProForce VTS 100HX 

Hybrid: PXG Gen 1 19*; HZDRUS Handcrafted 100 6.5

Irons: NIKE CB 4-PW Raw finish ; Aldila RIP Tour SLT 115 Tour Stiff (.25 inch gapping)

Wedges: Titleist SM9 50*, 54*; True Temper DG S300 (36 inches)

L-Wedge: Custom 60*; KBS Tour Stiff (36 inches)

Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Design #5 35 inches: Super Stroke GP Tour

Ball: ProV1x

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