TaylorMade M3 and M4 Drivers and Metalwoods

RobYakes · February 6, 2018

Hit the M4 for the first time Saturday. Shots definitely seemed to hold their line better than my gamer (R11s TP). Local shop only had it with the stock Atmos Red 50 (way too light), or the regular Tensei CK White 60. Does anyone have any opinions on the feel/loading/etc. differences between the CK White and the CK Pro White? Also, what would you compare either of those Tensei shafts to in Fuji's Speeder Evo or HZRDUS' offerings? Much appreciated.

cch1976 · February 6, 2018

Has anyone paid to see the rest of this video?
Curious if it's worth it.

I did and I loved it! It goes over how the CG changes when you move the weights around in both M1 and M3. They measure this in a way that's way above my physics understanding. They also measure and compare the loft in nine different spots between the two drivers in addition to doing the same with the face angle. Super interesting, especially if you're a nerd (like me) and if you dabble in custom fitting.

JBW · February 6, 2018

I'm in the market for a M3 440, but I've got to admit, I know very little about shafts and torque values despite being a 4hdcp.

My avg driver swing speed is 108mph with a normal transition and my last few driver shafts have been:

Aldila Rogue Silver, 70X, non-tipped

Fujikura Speeder 757, X non-tipped

Mitsubishi Fubuki Pro73, X, non-tipped

I really like Mitsubishi shafts and have been eyeing the Tensei Pro White and have read some great reviews, but not sure if I should try a light-weight shaft such as the 60-TX or go with the 70-S. With the 70-TX weighing in at 77 grams, I think it may be a little too much for me, now that I'm getting older, I'm 55.

With that said, anyone have experience with the 60-TX and 70-S? If so, what differences have you noticed?

Thanks.

SwooshLT · February 6, 2018

Has anyone paid to see the rest of this video?
Curious if it's worth it.

I did and I loved it! It goes over how the CG changes when you move the weights around in both M1 and M3. They measure this in a way that's way above my physics understanding. They also measure and compare the loft in nine different spots between the two drivers in addition to doing the same with the face angle. Super interesting, especially if you're a nerd (like me) and if you dabble in custom fitting.

Was there a definitive spin increase from m1 to m3?

Also , looking at the overlay the M3 460 certainly looks smaller than M1 17.....only mm but certainly smaller

scottaz · February 6, 2018

For guys who have hit the M3 440, what did the face angles look like at neutral???

I'm scared to go 9 because I like to open up the face a littler bit & it might end up at 8 or lower. Would the 10 turned down to 9 win out???

I wouldn't sweat it. 8 or lower may become your new thing with this head. Mine is a few degrees open.

Did you go with a 9 then?? I can easily hit a 9 degree head, but I wouldn't want to go much lower. I generally like to see a Driver head that "looks" open 1.5-2 Degrees at address. My M1 440 is set to 1 notch lower.

Here's a look at address.

tbone18 · February 6, 2018

I'm in the market for a M3 440, but I've got to admit, I know very little about shafts and torque values despite being a 4hdcp.

My avg driver swing speed is 108mph with a normal transition and my last few driver shafts have been:

Aldila Rogue Silver, 70X, non-tipped
Fujikura Speeder 757, X non-tipped
Mitsubishi Fubuki Pro73, X, non-tipped

I really like Mitsubishi shafts and have been eyeing the Tensei Pro White and have read some great reviews, but not sure if I should try a light-weight shaft such as the 60-TX or go with the 70-S. With the 70-TX weighing in at 77 grams, I think it may be a little too much for me, now that I'm getting older, I'm 55.

With that said, anyone have experience with the 60-TX and 70-S? If so, what differences have you noticed?

Thanks.

I have basically the same swing speed. I use the Tensei Pro White 70 TX @ 45.25" and it hasn't been tipped. It is a good stable shaft that doesn't feel to stout. Plus you have to remember that is the total weight of the shaft at is raw 46" length.

Gamble Gamble · February 6, 2018

Has anyone paid to see the rest of this video?
Curious if it's worth it.

I did and I loved it! It goes over how the CG changes when you move the weights around in both M1 and M3. They measure this in a way that's way above my physics understanding. They also measure and compare the loft in nine different spots between the two drivers in addition to doing the same with the face angle. Super interesting, especially if you're a nerd (like me) and if you dabble in custom fitting.

Was there a definitive spin increase from m1 to m3?

Also , looking at the overlay the M3 460 certainly looks smaller than M1 17.....only mm but certainly smaller

i noticed higher spin numbers in my 2016 M1 vs my 2018 M3

t4t3r · February 6, 2018

Has anyone paid to see the rest of this video?
Curious if it's worth it.

I did and I loved it! It goes over how the CG changes when you move the weights around in both M1 and M3. They measure this in a way that's way above my physics understanding. They also measure and compare the loft in nine different spots between the two drivers in addition to doing the same with the face angle. Super interesting, especially if you're a nerd (like me) and if you dabble in custom fitting.

Was there a definitive spin increase from m1 to m3?

Also , looking at the overlay the M3 460 certainly looks smaller than M1 17.....only mm but certainly smaller

i noticed higher spin numbers in my 2016 M1 vs my 2018 M3

Same loft in both?

Gamble Gamble · February 7, 2018

Has anyone paid to see the rest of this video?
Curious if it's worth it.

I did and I loved it! It goes over how the CG changes when you move the weights around in both M1 and M3. They measure this in a way that's way above my physics understanding. They also measure and compare the loft in nine different spots between the two drivers in addition to doing the same with the face angle. Super interesting, especially if you're a nerd (like me) and if you dabble in custom fitting.

Was there a definitive spin increase from m1 to m3?

Also , looking at the overlay the M3 460 certainly looks smaller than M1 17.....only mm but certainly smaller

i noticed higher spin numbers in my 2016 M1 vs my 2018 M3

Same loft in both?

Yes, and the weight track all the way back in both. M1 set to fade. M3 set to max MOI.

Diamana Ahina 70x in the M1

Fujikura Atmos 70x in the M3

ignitewvu · February 7, 2018

For guys who have hit the M3 440, what did the face angles look like at neutral???

I'm scared to go 9 because I like to open up the face a littler bit & it might end up at 8 or lower. Would the 10 turned down to 9 win out???

I wouldn't sweat it. 8 or lower may become your new thing with this head. Mine is a few degrees open.

Did you go with a 9 then?? I can easily hit a 9 degree head, but I wouldn't want to go much lower. I generally like to see a Driver head that "looks" open 1.5-2 Degrees at address. My M1 440 is set to 1 notch lower.

Yes. I played the M1 440 at 9.5 for a bit and at 9.5 it was lower launching then my M3 is at 7.5. Just my experience.

Keep an open mind when testing. I didn't think I'd go down that low either.

Perfect answer man, I appreciate it.

My M1 9.5 was set 1 click down in a 1.5 tour sleeve with a Diamana W60 Tipped 1/2" May I will go with the 9.

I"m a high ball hitter with the Driver, I always have been.....the only think that brings flight down is a tip stiff shaft & a lower lofted head.

SwooshLT · February 7, 2018

Has anyone paid to see the rest of this video?
Curious if it's worth it.

I did and I loved it! It goes over how the CG changes when you move the weights around in both M1 and M3. They measure this in a way that's way above my physics understanding. They also measure and compare the loft in nine different spots between the two drivers in addition to doing the same with the face angle. Super interesting, especially if you're a nerd (like me) and if you dabble in custom fitting.

I also bought it too.....super interesting

4rheel · February 11, 2018

Umm, I think I’m going to love this driver.

Caesar Palache · February 11, 2018

I've spent about a week testing the M4 driver on the range. Have yet to put it in play on the golf course. I played the SLDR 430 up until 2016 when I put the M1 440 in the bag. I cracked the face on that and decided to replace it with the M2 that fall and really liked extra forgiveness. Went back to the M1 440 in 2017 and played that all season. But decided this year I would start off by testing the M4 and if it didn't make the cut I'd go the 440 route again. So far I've hit one ball with the 440 but initial testing of the M4 seems like its a winner.

My set up is M4 8.5 with Oban Kiyoshi White 65 Stiff with the hosel set on upright and at 43.75 inches tipped 1 inch. I hit the ball high so I essentially make a club that should launch at 5*-8* and let my swing launch it 14*-15*. I very rarely go full out on my driver swing and tend to swing anywhere from 85%-90% of what I consider max. I sit somewhere in the 105-112 swing speed range. When I get up above 110 I have no idea where the ball is going. Lately I've struggled to consistently keep my ball speed near 160 since I tend to be slightly open and off the toe at impact. That and when I swing it at 105 I am not getting to 160 ball speed no matter what I do. I prefer to see the ball launch over my left shoulder and cut back into the fairway. I essentially play for the pull cut. Always picking a spot left side and trying to start it there. For years I played a hook draw and would miss both ways. With this new shot I try to eliminate left which means my miss is right. I'll either leave the face slightly too open through impact hitting up and left on the ball and hit a higher ball that fades to much. I call this a wipe. Or I fall back into my tendency to hit out on the ball and get a block fade. Three out of four misses are the wipe.

When I test clubs for the first time I've found I like to stay away from my Flightscope during the first few sessions. I like to visually see what the ball does, how the club sounds, and how the club feels (sound is feel). I don't want to get to caught up in ball speed, swing speed, and distance quite yet. I first want to see if the club is even worth it before knowing the numbers.

Alright so the actual testing. This club does not miss right. It misses left. At least for me. I am a toe hitter which is what happens when your hands move up and left through impact, at least for me. So with this new twist face the ball starts on target (over my left shoulder) and once it reaches it apex it starts drawing ever so slightly. Anywhere from 3-10 yards depending how far on the toe and how shut my face is. It was very surprising, in a good way. The other thing I noticed was how high the ball was launching when hit off the toe. Normally a shut toe hit for me starts low and goes left. This ball would start high on target and then ever so slightly draw. When I say I hit off the toe I don't mean off the paint on the toe. I mean slightly off center. I literally could not hit a fade if the ball was hit off center. So it got me trying to start the ball in the center of my "fairway" and see if I could recreate my draw. Again anything hit off the toe would start high and on target and then slightly draw towards the end of the flight. I can't explain it enough, you do do not expect to see that ball launch in the window it does when you hit it off the toe. Now the downfall of that is it spins much more than when solidly struck on the face. So yes I am losing distance because I can tell the ball is climbing too much and the decent angle is somewhere near 50* instead of my optimal 40*. The good news is while I'm 10-20 yards shorter, I'm in the middle of the fairway. Again these are all miss hits. It surprisingly took me a couple dozen balls to consistently strike the center of the face. Even with all those misses none of my shots were catastrophically off line. All would have given me shots at the green. My pull fade shots that drew 3-10 yards would have just slightly been in the rough, and my draw shots that launched high and straight would have been center to left center just slightly shorter. Essentially all I'd done so far in my testing is hit misses and this driver works.

After living off the toe I decided to square it up and see how the center of the face works. Once I got the ball more center on contact and not slightly toe I saw massive improvements in spin (visually) and shot shape. My ball flight was as flat as I have ever seen and tremendously straighter. For someone who likes to cut the ball that's huge. My cut is going to have more back spin and generally launch higher and spin more to the right. With the 8.5 head and deeper face (not to mention my favorite shaft in the world) this thing was coming out flat and hot with less than 5 yards of curve. The ball was starting slightly more centered in my launch window and not as much over my left should as I would usually play but that is something I can get used to especially since the ball isn't moving as much left to right. I usually play the ball to move 10 yards minimum. The M4 when centered wouldn't move more than 5.

Sound and feel is miles ahead of where Taylormade has been in the past. I have always played Taylormade but I'm not afraid to say I cannot remember a Taylormade driver that sounded and felt this good to me since the tour issue R1. That hot melt is a wonderful thing. Most Taylormade drivers sound loud, metallic, and harsh. Which then translates to feeling harsh. The SLDR 430 felt great when centered, but anything slightly off center would feel like a thinned wedge. The M4 still has some metallic sound to it but when compressing the ball (even off center) it feels like the ball just springs off the face. Much more muted sound that previous models and I don't get this harsh feedback on miss hits. It feels like the center of the face is huge since the miss hits have the same type of sound as a solidly struck shot. I loved the Epic driver last year from Callaway because it was quiet and felt great. But I think it was slightly too muted and didn't give much feedback. Not really sure how to explain it. It felt great, but was missing something. The M4 is louder than the Epic but maintains that feel with the added feedback. It's got that extra I was looking for out of the Epic.

For the better player this club is going to go a whole lot straighter. Now part of that is my shaft but the other part of that is the improved forgiveness of the new M4. The twist face or expanded bulge and roll may take a couple range buckets to get used to but I really think they have something going for them with it. I think higher handicap golfers are going to love this club for the fact that their miss hits are going to be much more playable and the twist face creates a draw more times that not on miss hits (toe side that is) so the higher handicap that slices the ball is going to get some forgiveness in that category and might even see a draw sneak in. If they are swinging hard over the top and catch it off center I really think this club is going to launch the ball on a much straighter line and hold it there versus a massive wiping miss.

It is calling for good weather this week in Virginia (aside from rain) so I am planning on getting on the flightscope this week and getting some hard data. I am hoping it is as good as I think it is.

The first 3 balls were way off the toe.

The next few got closer to the face but as I said, I still tend to hit toe side.

Finally learning how to square it up

awtryau89 · February 11, 2018

I went for my fitting yesterday as well. I am currently playing the G400 LST 10* with Tensei Pro Orange in the small + setting and really like the club. I had scheduled this fitting and waffled on whether I really wanted to do it. Before I got the G400 in late summer, I had played the M2 2016 and 2017 versions as my primary driver. I went in expecting to grab an M4. We used Flightscope and our regular range balls. It was wet, rainy and foggy and we hit from our indoor bay downrange. None of my numbers with any club were spectacular and I attributed it to the balls and the weather. I looked the data from the perspective if everything being relative to each other for that day. Average SS was just under 100mph all day. Average AoA is just under +3* all day.

Right off the jump, my pro showed me how I was launching the G400 too high. For my 100mph swing, I was averaging around 18* with some right at 20* and the lowest being around 16*. I knew I had a high trajectory window but I keep this driver in play. The overall theme with this club was launch was too high so descent angle was very steep and robbing me of distance. I had 2 bad pulls in the first 10 balls which skewed the grouping. Still I was spinning the club around 2800 with these range balls. After seeing this, I switched back to the Tour 65 stiff shaft that came stock in the club which actually brought the launch down a bit but the club still spun up a touch too much. Enough about the Ping. I am keeping it for now and will do some on course experimenting as it truly is a very good club.

Next we went into the M4 9.5* with stock Atmos. This club was completely different than expected. Love the sound. Very similar to the Ping G400. Launch window was even higher than the Ping and spin was over 3000. We tried the stock Tensei and even the Pro White in stiff and in X. Nothing was going to make this club work for me. He did not have the 8.5* on the fitting cart but he wasn't sure we could even make that one work. The M4 is a different animal than previous M2s. Again I loved the sound and feel but couldn't make it work.

Next we tried the M3 9.5* with the weight all forward. He set it at 1 click lower and we used the Tensei Pro White. He was trying to kill spin and get the launch down. The first 2 balls I hit the spin was 1750 and 1560. I could not believe my spin dropped that much. My launch window came down into the 12-13* range. Now we had to work to get spin up for me. We moved the weights back and its helped some. Then we switched to the stock Tensei Blue and spin and launch got into a really good spot for me. We were seeing launch in the 13-14* range with spin around 2400. My carry was staying relatively the same as my Ping with a much better descent angle which should give my another 10-15 yards in the warmer weather with drier fairways according to my pro. We did try a Fujikura Pro 73, Tensei Pro White X (to take out my pull left miss) and an Evenflow he had in the cart as well but came back the Tensei Blue. When we pulled up the grouping charts the M3 was so much tighter as well. Even with one bad push, it beat the other 2 drivers handlily. He pulled out that push shot and the grouping looked like a 7 iron. As for sound and feel, I immediately did not like the sound of the M3 as much as my Ping or M4. It has more of a carbon fiber thwack but its still higher pitched than an Epic SZ which I found really muted. The others sound much more metallic and I favor that. The feel is very solid but skewed by the sound for me. The other thing is I hate that I fit best into the stock Tensei. The WRX 'ho in me wants to need an exotic shaft. I do have my Pro Orange which I am sure will get a run in the head as I saw the Ping was better suited for me with the Tour shaft. I guess I at least save myself some money.

I did try the 440 head in 9* for a short run. The numbers were not there for me so I moved on quickly. I will say I much preferred the sound and feel of the 440 over the 460. It actually was the best in this area over all the clubs.

As for Twist Face, I saw some good results. My miss is like the majority of folks on the high toe. I hit a couple of shots in that area that would have been snap hooks with the Ping and they stayed on the grid. I also hit a few low heels which stayed much lower than I am used to seeing and did not go nearly as bad right. I didn't go into this fitting expecting this to be the major selling point for me and I have been on the fence if it was a marketing gimmick. I think the truth lies somewhere in the middle. I'll take the extra help though whether its placebo or not.

kiddoc · February 12, 2018

I have settled in on the M3 9.5 (real loft 9.2) after playing with it for 3 weeks.

Shaft is Black HZRDUS 6.5 75g

Left the etched Rogue 60 TX

Consider something totally different with this head!

t4t3r · February 12, 2018

No first-hand experience to report here but I did at least get to check out the heads at local DSG who received their demos last week.

Didn’t think I would like them but the 440 and 460 look really good. Not a huge fan the silver/Black but it looked better in person. It could be the color or just the shape, but the 460 has some great lines and looks smaller than 460cc to my eye. 440 looks good as well although it didn’t jump out at me like the ‘17 did. Briefly checked out the M4 but I will need to take a closer look as the sole layout/graphics just don’t really appeal to me.

Can’t wait to hear more on these as orders start to roll in. Like anyone else I love trying out the new stuff each year, and even though I’m a huge fan of the ‘16 models, I’m really looking forward to trying out this series.

SwooshLT · February 12, 2018

No first-hand experience to report here but I did at least get to check out the heads at local DSG who received their demos last week.

Didn’t think I would like them but the 440 and 460 look really good. Not a huge fan the silver/Black but it looked better in person. It could be the color or just the shape, but the 460 has some great lines and looks smaller than 460cc to my eye. 440 looks good as well although it didn’t jump out at me like the ‘17 did. Briefly checked out the M4 but I will need to take a closer look as the sole layout/graphics just don’t really appeal to me.

Can’t wait to hear more on these as orders start to roll in. Like anyone else I love trying out the new stuff each year, and even though I’m a huge fan of the ‘16 models, I’m really looking forward to trying out this series.

Far more symmetrical than 17 M1 is the M3 460....shorter heel to toe by millimeters and just more appealing to my eye....

mgasparibc · February 12, 2018

M4 comes in this week, not sure how thorough PGA superstore is but my question is on Swingweight.

Cutting my driver to play 44" or 43.75", does anyone know how many grams are necessary to bring the driver back to stock D3? As well as what you used, yarn, weights, hotmelt etc.

Also, my shaft i ordered was tensei white 70 xstiff.

There is alot of info on swingweight on the forums here but if someone has the M4 in that range of shaft length, let me know what you did to get swingweight back.

Brooks_Cupcake · February 12, 2018

M4 comes in this week, not sure how thorough PGA superstore is but my question is on Swingweight.

Cutting my driver to play 44" or 43.75", does anyone know how many grams are necessary to bring the driver back to stock D3? As well as what you used, yarn, weights, hotmelt etc.

Also, my shaft i ordered was tensei white 70 xstiff.

There is alot of info on swingweight on the forums here but if someone has the M4 in that range of shaft length, let me know what you did to get swingweight back.

I sure hope you didn’t order it at 45.5” and expect to cut 1.5”....you’re going to have a hard time adding an estimated 18g back to the head and still keeping it playable.

RonSwanson · February 12, 2018

M4 comes in this week, not sure how thorough PGA superstore is but my question is on Swingweight.

Cutting my driver to play 44" or 43.75", does anyone know how many grams are necessary to bring the driver back to stock D3? As well as what you used, yarn, weights, hotmelt etc.

Also, my shaft i ordered was tensei white 70 xstiff.

There is alot of info on swingweight on the forums here but if someone has the M4 in that range of shaft length, let me know what you did to get swingweight back.

Getting swingweight to a certain mark will depend on too many factors to determine blind. You're better off taking it to a clubbuilder, or at the very least PGASS will have a swingweight scale and you can measure it after cutting it down and then add weight as necessary. I've found 1.5-2g at the head usually = 1 sw point and cutting off .5" at the butt usually drops swingweight 2 pts, but this is just an estimate. Start with lead tape so that you can easily add/remove. If you want a more permanent fix, you can have it hotmelted after you're comfortable with the added weight/SW.

mgasparibc · February 12, 2018

M4 comes in this week, not sure how thorough PGA superstore is but my question is on Swingweight.

Cutting my driver to play 44" or 43.75", does anyone know how many grams are necessary to bring the driver back to stock D3? As well as what you used, yarn, weights, hotmelt etc.

Also, my shaft i ordered was tensei white 70 xstiff.

There is alot of info on swingweight on the forums here but if someone has the M4 in that range of shaft length, let me know what you did to get swingweight back.

I sure hope you didn’t order it at 45.5” and expect to cut 1.5”....you’re going to have a hard time adding an estimated 18g back to the head and still keeping it playable.

How else do people play drivers at 44” than ?

Tm could’ve cut it to from 45.5 to 44 but they don’t alter

Swingweight .

Not understanding how the driver would be unplayable though as if the solution is to bring it to an appropriate club builder than that’s the info I need..

mgasparibc · February 12, 2018

M4 comes in this week, not sure how thorough PGA superstore is but my question is on Swingweight.

Cutting my driver to play 44" or 43.75", does anyone know how many grams are necessary to bring the driver back to stock D3? As well as what you used, yarn, weights, hotmelt etc.

Also, my shaft i ordered was tensei white 70 xstiff.

There is alot of info on swingweight on the forums here but if someone has the M4 in that range of shaft length, let me know what you did to get swingweight back.

Getting swingweight to a certain mark will depend on too many factors to determine blind. You're better off taking it to a clubbuilder, or at the very least PGASS will have a swingweight scale and you can measure it after cutting it down and then add weight as necessary. I've found 1.5-2g at the head ususally = 1 sw point and cutting off .5" at the butt usually drops swingweight 2 pts, but this is just an estimate. Start with lead tape so that you can easily add/remove. If you want a more permanent fix, you can have it hotmelted after you're comfortable with the added weight/SW.

Perfect ! Thanks

bfizzy · February 12, 2018

M4 comes in this week, not sure how thorough PGA superstore is but my question is on Swingweight.

Cutting my driver to play 44" or 43.75", does anyone know how many grams are necessary to bring the driver back to stock D3? As well as what you used, yarn, weights, hotmelt etc.

Also, my shaft i ordered was tensei white 70 xstiff.

There is alot of info on swingweight on the forums here but if someone has the M4 in that range of shaft length, let me know what you did to get swingweight back.

I sure hope you didn't order it at 45.5" and expect to cut 1.5"....you're going to have a hard time adding an estimated 18g back to the head and still keeping it playable.

How else do people play drivers at 44" than ?

Tm could've cut it to from 45.5 to 44 but they don't alter
Swingweight .

Not understanding how the driver would be unplayable though as if the solution is to bring it to an appropriate club builder than that's the info I need..

You could get a reputable builder to add some hot melt to the head, or just join the lead tape mafia. I don't know where I read it, could have been in the thread that showed Justin Rose M3 with three weights, but TM might sell extra weights, or you would probably have to wait for Billy Bobs or golf works to come out with their own weights.

Bomber_11 · February 12, 2018

Just a heads up, if you order Tensei Pro through TM’s site and specify an X-Flex, it’ll come in TX

Don’t panic, Tensei Pro goes straight from Stiff to Tour-X with no “X Flex” in between.

trhode · February 12, 2018

FYI, the M3 weights are 11g. The M4 weights are just under 4g. The RBZ weights fit the M4 perfectly. T20 Torx security bit to remove.

Brooks_Cupcake · February 12, 2018

Just a heads up, if you order Tensei Pro through TM’s site and specify an X-Flex, it’ll come in TX

Don’t panic, Tensei Pro goes straight from Stiff to Tour-X with no “X Flex” in between.

Or Panic, LOL, as that shaft will come tipped an 1”....good for dudes like you but my mortal 112mph it is unloadable...

Redbird · February 12, 2018

If I order a M3 direct from TM with a Tensei pro white are they gonna tip it? I read mixed things about TM tipping when then customer doesn't expect it.

Gtyler14 · February 12, 2018

Standard TM tipping it 1 inch so you’ll have to choose .5 soft or 1 inch soft

Smitty120 · February 12, 2018

Testing my M4 with my go to shaft AD TP 7TX this Wednesday on course. Will be nice to get it outdoors for once and not have to watch the monitor. The stock weight screw as said is 3g in my head. I do not see any HotMelt in the head, but my 17 M2 did have a little by the rear weight screw. The M4 head with out adapter is 195g. Before adding Hotmelt to this retail head I am going to have the loft checked and dial in placement for melt with lead tape. Currently have Tape from behind the hammerhead slots going back to rear weight. Added 7g to achieve my preferred SW of D4 @ my 44.75" playing length. Will report back Wednesday evening with thoughts.

tylerfriesen · February 12, 2018

I've hit the M4 chief a few times now and I seemed to notice and like the twist face on heel strikes (misses stayed low and didn't over cut) but on most high toe shots it would miss high and right, more so than usual I thought.

anyone else notice this ... ?