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How much BS are we being fed by the big brands?


cp.vanvuuren

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Printed drivers...how long will that head stay in good shape?

 

Yeah, will it outlast all those drivers with cracking faces?

 

BT

 

Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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The best way to improve your driver skill is to pay the initiation fee at a club with super-wide fairways.

 

Sorry pinestreet, but you are speaking only for yourself with that 'rather lame' comment! :taunt:

 

This may come as a 'shock', 'but 'Big Brand BS', (the topic), has nothing to do with "driver skill"... :swoon:

 

 

:golfer:

[b]What's in Bobcat's Bag? (Showing more than 14 clubs due to options)[/b]

Driver: TM 2015 9.5* SLDR-C - 45.5" Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s (tipped 1/2")
Fairway: TM Tour-iussue V-Steel 15* 3W - 43.25" Fujikura 757 Speeder Stiff
Hybrid Fairway: TM Rescue Fairway 15* '3-Strong'- 42.75" Fujikura VP-90 Stiff
Hybrids: TM Rescue-Mid TP's 19*(3H) & 22*(4H) - Fujikura Vista Pro 90 Stiff
Driving Irons: TM TP UDI's 16* (#1) & 20* (#3) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Shafts
Irons: TM 2015 SLDR Irons (5-8i only) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Flex Steel
Hybrid Wedges: Cleveland 2011 Niblicks - 42*PW /49*DW / 56*SW - Stock Steel
Wedge: 2011 Cleveland CG-16 Black Pearl 58*/8* (SW/LW) - Stock Steel Shaft
Putter: Bettinardi BBX-81 Blade - 35" Bettinardi Stock Steel Putter Shaft
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Getting new clubs?

 

I just turned 68, and I have different clubs than when I was 58. Part of it is a decline in raw strength.

 

I played with one set of irons (fitted component clubs) for 14 years before switching in 2009.

 

I changed to the Calla X20 irons for two seasons, and then switched to X20 Tours - got a good deal, and I had hit the Tours several times in 2009. Good iron play.. But after three seasons, the PX 5.0 shafts on the Tours became hard to handle. So I had them reshafted in lighter NS Pro 8950GH shafts. The lighter shafts gave me a 12 yard gain on distance, and more consistent shots. I was fortunate to get a X20 Tour demo 6i for cheap, and used it to test out different shafts before going with the NS.

 

In recap, I bought the slightly used X20s for $300, and then traded them for the Tours for a net $200 extra. The reshafted irons ($320 parts and labor) worked for four seasons, and now I switched to the CB Pro irons. (Also, probably about $500 of regripping). So, I spent $1,320 total on the X20 family and got 9 seasons of golf out of them (spreading cost = about $147 a year).

 

But, I made incremental adjustments rather than trying to buy the next big thing.

What's In The Bag (As of April 2023, post-MAX change + new putter)

 

Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

Ball: 1. Srixon Q-Star Tour / 2. Calla SuperHot (Orange preferred)  ||  Bag: Sun Mountain Three 5 stand bag

    * MD4 54°/10 S-Grind replaced MD3 54°/12 W-Grind.

     Ψ  Backups:

  • Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced) + Evnroll Gravity Grip |
  • Slotline Inertial SL-583F w/ SuperStroke 2.MidSlim (50 gr. weight removed) |
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Tiger was hitting 300 yd drives with a tiny metal wood in the 90's but how was the accuracy? Over the course of a full round, and with bad and good swings, would you have the same results? Love the idea and awesome that you have the knowledge and skill to do this. Keep tinkering with it and maybe try putters next?

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I've found similar results when comparing and old wooden driver to my recent one and it's probably the industry's dirty little secret, I think the modified James Carville quote is appropriate when talking about golf equipment.

 

"It's the economy ball, stupid"

 

 

You mean the ball that's been regulated for decades, and was actually rolled back by the new ODS parameters?

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Here's the thing...I would pay a lot of money for a 7 yard increase over what I'm playing now. People think drivers are currently maxed out. They're not.

TaylorMade Stealth2 Plus 9.0, Ventus Black 6X, 45.5"

TaylorMade Stealth2 Plus 4 (16.5), HZRDUS Smoke Blue RDX 6.5 70g, 42.5"

TaylorMade P790 3 (2021), DG X100 (SSx2)

TaylorMade P7MC Raw 4-PW, DG Mid X100 (SSx1)
TaylorMade MG4 50, 54 - DG S400

Titleist SM9 58T - DG S400
Scotty Cameron Oil Can Newport, 34"
TaylorMade TP5x (2021)

My WITB Post

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I believe heads for the last 8 years or so are the same distance wise. They have however made them straighter on shots hit off the heel and toe by quite a bit. Some of the newest TM stuff and Ping heads really eliminated the toe sniper

 

Agree with your sentiment, yet I still hit more in the thick stuff than in the fairway

 

By the way, so impressed with your 3D work. Cool post of the month !!!

 

Much appreciated. I've been practicing on putters for a number of years.

 

How large is that head you made for your wife?

 

Using the accurate(ish) water displacement in a cereal bowl and kitchen scale method. My Titleist came to 423CC. The 3D came to 263CC. The outer perimeters are fairly similar on the two though, so it looks a lot bigger. Using the concave surfaces makes a difference

 

Are you an engineer sir?

 

Indeed :-)

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What is it actually made of? Titanium or ??

 

Pretty much Plastic. Same stuff that Lego blocks are made of, ABS for short. It's a polymer that is extremely strong and rigid, but weighs 70% less than stainless steel.

 

Most of the plastic inserts on the OEM clubs is ABS. It has a very high shock absorbance.

 

"ABS combines the strength and rigidity of acrylonitrile and styrene polymers with the toughness of polybutadiene rubber. While the cost of producingABS is roughly twice the cost of producing polystyrene, it is considered superior for its hardness, gloss, toughness, and electrical insulation properties."

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene

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I've found similar results when comparing and old wooden driver to my recent one and it's probably the industry's dirty little secret, I think the modified James Carville quote is appropriate when talking about golf equipment.

 

"It's the economy ball, stupid"

 

It's the first thing I want to test. The drive I hit with the 3D was with a "soft compression ball". I'm wondering if the more solid bat requires a softer ball to get the performance.

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Over the course of a full round, and with bad and good swings, would you have the same results?

 

Probably not. I'm keen to find out though. Working on my own one. Will share the design for some input from the group as I see there are some valuable opinions here.

 

Keep tinkering with it and maybe try putters next?

 

Putters is where I started. I've been putting with my own putter for about 3 years now. The advantage of the lightweight material is that I can move a lot of the weight to the outer perimeter of the club. I have 140g tungsten weights on the sides. Putter is extremely stable and very soft feel.

 

Since then I've made quite a few for my friends who all love the putter.

 

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18341987_1534886173210166_251326933817462506_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_eui2=AeGhMUvyZNiVFWXp0V35QkCi9tG1SwYIZWDG9unCVbRCE2ljVU0m__pyX-4nV1L5GNfpOp-e57g_WClNHB5FYS_1ln3UX0W-2pvJxHzUjd7uqQ&_nc_ht=scontent.fjnb4-1.fna&oh=b08cd278ed2605a5c93cd3e5c316b0d7&oe=5CAA8E27

 

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Neat job printing that up! Very cool. To answer your question - yes. There's a lot of malarkey in equipment marketing. Seems to me that if you get the right shaft for your swing, head(s) that look good to your eye, and grips for your finger lengths you're golden...

 

I agree. Maybe I should invest in a proper tour shaft for my test driver and see what the result is. The great thing about the material I use is that it is so light, I can add a lot of weight on the sides. This might increase the MOI above anything else currently in the market leading to..... Straighter drives on miss hits. :ban:

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Here's the thing...I would pay a lot of money for a 7 yard increase over what I'm playing now. People think drivers are currently maxed out. They're not.

 

In my case, I would pay a lot of money to hit 10% more fairways, even if it comes with a 7 yard sacrifice in distance. So maybe I should just cut 4 inches from my driver shaft...

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I've found similar results when comparing and old wooden driver to my recent one and it's probably the industry's dirty little secret, I think the modified James Carville quote is appropriate when talking about golf equipment.

 

"It's the economy ball, stupid"

 

It's the first thing I want to test. The drive I hit with the 3D was with a "soft compression ball". I'm wondering if the more solid bat requires a softer ball to get the performance.

 

Maybe. If you think back, they were hitting persimmon with balatas...but high compressions (90~100). Also, not everyone played balata because it was so expensive.

 

I have noticed a bit of a difference in distance between my modern driver and my regular persimmon (carbon shafted, but not sure of shaft length), but I play a softer compression ball with my persimmon. The driver I'd like to really test properly against my modern is a Wood Bros Corker. Persimmon filled with cork, like a corked baseball bat. When I hit that out of the screws, it seemed to fly forever (by the way, your driver reminded a bit of the Kool Kat driver, which I think was also filled with cork).

 

That said, there's no doubt that the larger heads of modern drivers are a heck of a lot more forgiving on mishits than persimmons. What's your 3-D printed driver like on mishits?

 

Interesting project, anyway. I look forward to hearing more on it.

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Here's the thing...I would pay a lot of money for a 7 yard increase over what I'm playing now. People think drivers are currently maxed out. They're not.

 

 

J, you're also a plus. Your game is such that adding the few extra yards is the only real improvement to your tee game, your accuracy is already quality level. For others, mid cap, high cap, even single digit, consistency is a more necessary target.

 

Of course, consistency is usually ignored as distance is chased, LOL.

 

Edited to add: It's interesting to note the printed driver is several inches shorter and considerably lighter. I would hazard a guess 7 yards could be found by merely making the driver slightly longer. It's also possible the relative lack of difference could be related to a less than ideal fit with the current Ti stick. ;)

 

Agree that drivers are not maxed, other than by the rules. The rumors about the never-brought-to-market Nike driver may illustrate that fairly well.

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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