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What difference could a new set of irons make?


ParHunter

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I’ve been playing my Mizuno JPXPro 800 for nearly 10 years now and my long irons 6-4 are from my even older set MX-900. The irons are still in good condition. The clubs were custom fitted at the time.

In this time I’ve gone from about a 17 hdc to an 11 hdc and my aim is single figures. I’ve shot three 78s in the last few months so this is hopefully a realistic goal (only one was in a qualifier though -UK).

I told myself that if I reach single figures I would treat myself to a new set but I am wondering whether a new set could actually help me to get there.

How much more consistent length could I expect from properly fit new irons? If I could reduce the difference between a ok-ish Hit shot and a flushed one that would certainly help with my score.

 

i don’t expect a new iron to help much with dispersion (left-right) but if it could reduce the dispersion in length than that would be an argument to update sooner rather than later.

 

What has your experience been after changing set?

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I typically score around 80 and love my G410 irons. Best part of my game, if I could play my driver anywhere near as well as my irons then I’d be a single figure handicapper easily. Some people say that distance dispersion isn’t good with cavity backs, I would disagree totally with that statement, mine go he distance I expect them to consistently and accurately, a really really poor shot may take 5% off the distance.

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I don't think that they would make that much of a difference if you hit your irons well. Getting lower is about minimizing misses and making sure you can recover from them to not have a big number. My best scores were 3 years ago with a set of MP33's that I cut an inch short, didn't get the lofts, lies or SW's checked and had grips I hated on them.

 

My main issue isn't iron related currently and yet I still keep buying iron sets...

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The best thing new irons can do is:

get you excited and get out there to hit moreIf you don't have the proper height on the long irons or gap too close together at the top can get some more help thereOther than that, it's a piece of metal on a stick. One that, like everyone else on here, spends WAY TOO MUCH time and $$ thinking about and changing haha

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New irons will get you between 0.05 and 0.075 strokes gained (per shot) over a 10 year old set. So assuming you take 14 iron shots per round, and take the median at 0.0625 strokes each; a new set will gain you up to 0.875 strokes per round (per 10 years out of date). If you lay up on par 5’s or use irons off the tee, you gain even more! ?

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@ParHunter the first question I would ask is do you know where you are losing the majority of your strokes to par?
You mention that you are looking for more consistent lengths with your irons. If a change in irons (and shafts!) improves that then you definitely could reduce your scores.
On the other hand, there's nothing like a shiny new set of irons so you could just go for it.

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Srixon ZX Utility #4: Nippon Modus3 125-S

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Piretti Potenza 370g : Breakthrough Technology Stability Shaft - 34"

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Oh, I’m totally joking! What is +0.0625, about 3 feet shorter putts?

Truthfully though, if you’re going from a poor fitting set to a well-fit set, I imagine the effect can be around +0.25 strokes per iron shot.

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I saw the biggest difference in two areas, going from RocketBladez to 718 AP1s:

The long irons - I wasn't even playing a 4 iron in the old set because I just couldn't get anywhere with it. Chunked too many shots and when I hit it well, it would go about as far as my 5 iron, which wasn't the best stick in my old set anyway... Now, something about the technology or the way I'm hitting or something else mystical, my 4 iron might be my best club.The shafts - I picked up my new set for a song, new - I guess it helps to buy two years after they came out. As such, I had to take the stock shafts which touted progressive weighting. Not only does the weight increase through the set, but they're heavier than my shafts in my old set, which has been a great change for me.That, and they're just prettier.

Driver: Cobra LTDx 10.5° Helium Nanocore

Fairway: Cobra RADSPEED 18.5° Motore X

Hybrids: Titleist TSi2 21°, 24° TENSEI AV RAW Blue

Utility Iron: Titleist 718 AP1 24° Recoil 780

Irons: Titleist 718 AP1 AMT Red

Wedges: Vokey SM8 48°, 54° Dynamic Gold; SM7 60° Modus3

Putter: Scotty Cameron Special Select Newport 2

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Yes, the source of lost strokes should be part of the equation.

Another factor is the shafts, those steel or graphite tubes which connect the head to the grip. You mention length dispersion as a concern. So a related question: How old are you?

If you are in your mid-30s and swinging DG S300 or PX 6.0, you might get better tempo and consistency with a lighter shaft. IF you are "fighting the shaft," it will be more difficult to achieve consistent distance. And if you are age 53, you should get a fitting to make sure you have what you need. (Age 53 benchmark was mentioned in Golf Digest, so it must be true!)

What you might do is get a benchmark fitting with current irons, and then see what the Trackman numbers say. If you are shooting for single-digit, the fitting could show if you are hitting the "spin and height windows" you want for your game. Then, you can try out various irons for possible replacements. You probably want to get new irons rather than reshafting the faithful JPXs.

Also, a fitting could identify any gap point in your numbered irons. By gap point, I mean the place where you hit a 5i fine but struggle with 4i, or find your 4i and 3i go same distance. At the gap point you might softstep the shaft of the iron you struggle with, get a lighter shaft, or replace the iron with a hybrid.

So, let us know what happens. Good luck!

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Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

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Many years of poring over my shot-by-shot golf statistics convinces me that I can gain or lose about 2-3 strokes per round depending on what irons I choose to use. And even 3 strokes is probably more than what is realistic in the long term.

Now when I say that, I'm excluding the irons I've tried that just don't work at all. I mean if you handed me Adam Scott's set of Titleiest MB's it would cost me way more than three strokes a round! But I'm saying that among clubs I've tried that worked well enough for me to leave them in the bag for a few months or a few years, the ones that work "worse" versus "better" is a difference of a couple strokes.

Honestly, the only time I've ever seen a club change make an overnight difference for someone of more than a couple strokes was back in the late 90's when Titanium drivers hit the market. This one guy I played with was a 12hcp playing with in an ancient stainless steel driver (maybe a 150cc head?) and we finally talked him into get a modern club. Within two months he was playing off a 8hcp and eventually got another stroke or so better. He was already a decent iron player and good chipper and putter. Hitting the ball 25 yards longer and going from missing 4-5 fairways a round to hardly ever missing one was huge.

In my opinion, though, there's no way that swapping a set of irons that work pretty well for a different set of irons is going to turn a 12 into an 8 or anything like that, unless they make other changes in their game at the same time. But a couple strokes? That is certainly possible.

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I have 2 newer models of irons but my best set of irons the ones I shoot the best with are my old Mizuno MX200's. I keep telling myself updating is going to help but my old 200's always find their way back in the bag. Updating something you already hit well may or may not work out well for you. One thing I have noticed is the 5i and 6i from my newer Mizuno set is easier to get up in the air but beside that my 200's are spot on and more consistent more often.

What I have seen from newer models is jacked up lofts. I don't care about the number on the bottom of the iron.

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That's what I wanted to hear ;-)

Joke aside, where I am losing strokes depends on the day. I can waste a lot of shots on puts on a bad putting day (on other days the putter is smoking). Same with chipping, I can be hot or completely cold. Irons are probably my stronger part but I have the feeling I am either too often short or too long. I always take a club more than a good shot would need (I used GameGolf to figure out where the majority or my shots are) but I still sometimes end up short (even if I think I hit it ok) or fly the green (when I flush it).

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I am closer to 53 than 30 (a lot closer actually), so my clubhead speed probably didn't improve much in the 10 years I had my irons. Given what a difference a proper fitting with my driver made (about 20 yards and a lot less spin) and similar with my 3 wood. The fitter I've used for my driver and 3 wood is a lot more clued up (and has a lot more shafts to chose from, check out Golf Principles if you are in the South East of the UK) than the one I had 10 years ago, so I do hope I get out more than just shiny new irons.

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Knowing your distances is really important to get to single digits and there is an aspect of course management too.

For example, if you know that when you flush your 8i it goes 160 yards in the air. If you're playing to a back flag that is 160 yards away then 8i is a safe shot because even if you flush it it should not go long. I'm ignoring things like wind or lies in the rough here. The reverse is true for a front flag behind a bunker or over water. If you need to hit a perfect shot to clear the hazard then pick one more since long won't generally hurt you.

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Srixon ZX Utility #4: Nippon Modus3 125-S

Wilson Staff CB 5-PW : Nippon Modus3 125-S

Cleveland Zipcore 50, 54, 58: Nippon Modus3 125-S 

Piretti Potenza 370g : Breakthrough Technology Stability Shaft - 34"

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So just to add to this discussion, and this is only my personal experience - irons haven't mattered much. I have 16ish sets of irons ranging from very traditional blades (think 90s MacGregors) to cavity back and combo sets and am always buying different sets. I rotate through them frequently and score roughly the same regardless of what I'm playing. Bear in mind though each set is set to my specs (length, loft, lie, and shaft flex), which I think is the key variable. Head design is probably the least important factor, all dimensions considered

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fitting does help, ballooning shots because of weak shafts comes to mind. You see the most out of replacing the driver if you haven't after 10yrs. Irons very rarely change. its one of those issues that its not the new club that is making your game better, its the extra practice you are doing with the new club that is making your game better. You see sooo many times people buy a new putter, practice, practice, practice with it and then say Jeez that new putter is making my game better. getting your hdc lower is as people stated course management would be better to go 7i,7i or driver/wedge? which are you better with. you already have forgiving CB irons unless you want super game improvement irons that you can't shape and whatnot those will have less distance lost on a miss hit. Save your money get a lesson, work on your swing, dont try too bandaidit.

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Massive difference for me. Last set was killing me. Shafts too light, too upright Lie angle and I was STRUGGLING to hit a green. I could only hit high or higher trajectory and it tended to be floaty and moving left. I was coming back from a year off due to an injury so I just assumed it was my swing. Got a fitting and new irons/shafts. The difference was immediate. Ball flight came down and the shape was much softer and straighter.

I attribute most of this to the shaft change however - as I'm playing blades and there's not really much "tech" there changing anything. Also the length, lie and loft adjustment. Ironically enough I went into a higher lofted iron set and got lower flight, more spin, and more distance (shrug)

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I can’t remember why I buy new clubs other than they’re shiny. Usually it take me a while to get the distances dialed in. So no benefit until then. But the real difference comes with lessons. And/or increase in play time. Once a week golfer but I’d shave 3 off my WHS by playing 3 a week like I use to. Strongly believe that just for the short game improvements alone.

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Wedges: PXG 0311 52 56 degree Forged

Putter: Odyssey Rossie Pro 2.0 

 

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