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Is ditching my 3 wood for a 1 iron stupid?


gopherlover

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I currently bag a 917 15.75* d2 3 wood that goes about 260-280 and a 20* u500 3 iron that goes about 240-250. Previously I had a 17* p790 that I traded in for the u500 because it was going too far. I've always struggled with a bit of a flip at impact and I can't seem to get any confidence with my 3 wood because sometimes I flip and top it 50 yards. With every other club in the bag I might miss it left or right, but I never duff it.

So I know the proper thing to do is take a few lessons and focus on correcting the issue, but I feel much more comfortable hitting a long iron vs. a 3 wood. I'm considering purchasing a 2 iron and bending it down to 15 or 16* and ditching the 3 wood all together. While it will be more difficult to hold a green it's not like I'm being held back by my ability to stick a green from 270 yards out. Has anyone else tried this?

 

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@gopherlover said: "So I know the proper thing to do is take a few lessons and focus on correcting the issue, but I feel much more comfortable hitting a long iron vs. a 3 wood."
Sorry to bring up that hateful GolfWRX question... but... did you get fitted for your 3W?
But more likely, it's an issue of flipping the wrists. General golf instruction says this is a bid to get extra distance than can lead to topped shots. So, try this: find some 4Ws and try them out. A little extra loft and a slightly shorter shaft can help greatly with launch.
Once upon a demo day, the Tour Edge rep had us hit the 3W and 4W for a new edition of the Exotics. Most of us hit the 4W more reliably - and sometimes longer - than the 3W. This included some big hitters that carried the driver 280+. It depends in part on how you come into the ball.
I'm willing to bet that a controlled 4W will have better distance and less runaway than a 2i going into a par 5 green. And... a 4W gets you out of the rough better than a 2i.

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Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

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A 1-iron is feasible, but the question is turf interaction. Getting the proper 3-wood head and shaft combo is going to be waaayyy easier to hit and will give you more ball speed too.

If you hit it so far, you shouldn't have too many 3-woods/1-irons to play. Lay up on Par 5's, practice your wedge distances and watch your scores drop. Playing a 1-iron may get you ooo's an ah's on the first tee but it'll destroy your confidence with your irons after a few bad shots.

More practice with both clubs will reveal the answer anyhow.

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There’s a reason 2 irons have been mostly phased out... I wouldn’t call you dumb, but I will say you probably aren’t playing the odds.

As of  10/11/2021

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13 Degree Srixon 3 wood Project X Black 6.5

19 Degree Sub70 939 Pro with Proforce V2

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Your story is mine about 3-5 years ago, and I dropped 3 wood at that time for various 1/2 irons. I was about a 12hcp, incredibly long (300+ carry on driver, 275 3w but rarely hit it well off the deck, and SMASHED long irons). Had flippy hands

Some things I learned:

1) You absolutely can swap the 3w for a 1/2 iron and be fine, assuming you are using it as an off the tee option, or you play courses where you can run the ball up on greens. I went thru a bunch (g400 crossover 2, original UDI 1, 790UDI 2, mizzy h4 1, T-MB 2, some others I don’t recall) And never found the silver bullet. All of them did something well, but lacked badly elsewhere. One thing I liked was better directional accuracy, as in my misses curved offline less.

2) If you can find a 3w that works, it will be better IMO. Granted, during my this period I never actually succeeded in this, but as easily as last season I bagged a U510 1-iron... Which had mixed results (it was STUD OFF THE TEE, decent on the deck, but didn’t hold greens well). I recently got an M5 15* that is absurdly good.

3) Work on your swing and game. Sorry to say it, but as rude as that one poster was, he’s not exactly wrong. I know this because I, with very little range time (more watching more swing videos and taking dry swings and playing rounds hitting a second shot when I flipped or badly missed to correct my error) went from a 12hcp to about a 4.5 now. And this is with having lost 20 yards off my drives (prior career was pro sports and I was always in the gym, now I’m in medicine and haven’t seen a gym in 4 years). So it can be done, and I rarely go to the range.

IF you are hell bent in a 1 or 2 iron, try the Titleist U510 1-iron. It was by far the best of everything I tried, but if you can find a 3w that works you will be happier in the long run... as good as the U510 was, I am much better with the M5 3w, which I can change the trajectory more and hold greens when I need.

‘Good luck!

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I would look at a driving iron type of 2 iron that has good height. I have problems with a hook and fairway woods too because of my hands. In fact I am now running a 2 wood and 2i hybrid setup to see if it works. My home course is only like 6200 yards the longest par 5 is 550 yds.

"Shirtsleeve" swing technique:

1. Setup: Elbows bent forearms pressed together against shaft slightly forward of center with "Hogan" "active/flexed" leg tension left foot turned out slightly and the right leg slightly farther to the right - weight mostly on balls of feet butt of left hands sits on the top of the grip with very light grip.

2. Swing - W/o disturbing weight distribution of legs and feet lower hands while doing a forward press "swing trigger" then the left upper arm takes over on the backswing, it needs to go out in front of the body then back in front of the chest as the hands trace down initially then up to over the right shoulder "Torres". The goal is to not disturb the pressure of the feet during the initial takeaway.

 

Notes:

1. Only swing thought after swing trigger - extend left arm at shirt sleeve when reaching left hand over right shoulder "Shirtsleeve technique".

2. The upper left arm move "Shirtsleeve technique" can be practiced independently without a club, sitting down for instance

3. The correct feet tension can be felt by doing very short hops on the balls of the feet then holding the same feeling of pressure on the front of the feet and then taking three practice swings with the grip very loose in order to not disturb the same pressure on the feet and on the 3rd swing actively do the "Shirtsleeve" move. From there the swing should be done within a matter of seconds to not lose the feel of the legs resisting, this way this is not a learned technique as much as it is a setup technique.

 

 

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Yes...

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I have a U510 1 iron as the only club between driver and 3 iron. It works for the way I play the courses I play. There aren't too many courses where I can't hit the par 5's in two with a driver followed by an iron or decide to go for the green with the 1 iron and try to hold it - at those ranges, all kinds of uncertainties come into play. I'll usually play for position on my second shot and have a full wedge in rather than just hitting it as far as possible and ending up in the weeds somewhere.

It's long enough off the tee and pretty good from fairways. I find I can leak it a bit right if I get lazy but about the only thing I'd do now is replace one of my wedges with a U500 2 iron...

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If your 3 wood goes 260-280 and your 3 iron goes 240-250 and you are a 10 cap. I have a two pieces of advice:

Never lose that 3 wood or the 3 iron you hit those better than a 10 cap should expect to. You hit them like someone who is scratch. Figure out why you occasionally "top one 50 yards", you can't blame the club for that.Work on your game inside 60 yards.Those distances should be able to handle 7500 yards or more, work on that short game.

I know you won't like what I am saying but, I am being honest with you.

 

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doing whatever is most comfortable for YOU is what matters more

 

as a suggestion, look at Callaway super hybrid 17*. can loft it down too. shorter shaft and its a ball speed monster!!!

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If you’re going to do anything go for a low lofted hybrid like Srixon H85 16*. A 1 iron is completely useless unless it’s off the tee. We have to play what works for our non-tour swings but I think a slight miss strike with a 1 iron compared to a 16 degree hybrid is going to result in a glaring difference in forgiveness.

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There hasnt been a wood in my bag for 10 years. I just go driver 2i.

The amount of times Im 270+ out and NEED to hit a good shot just never occurs given the success rate I have with woods.

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Yes. The above is true.

3 wood into green is fairly rare for me too. 250ish carry... I probably score better laying up tbh.

That said, my current 3w I actually can play that shot when it’s the right move.

Ping G430 10k - 9* - Ventus TR Black 6x

Callaway Apex UW - 19* - Ventus Black 7x

PXG 0311P Gen6 - 5i-GW - DG x100

Vokey SM9 - 52.12F, 56.14F - DG x100ss

Vokey SM9 - 60.08M - KBS Hi-Rev 2.0

Callaway PM Grind 64 - KBS C-Taper 130x

L.A.B Link.1
Callaway Chrome Soft X LS
Vessel Player III - Citrine/White/Black (Riding)
Vessel VLS DXR - Grey/Orange (Walking/half-bag)
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Your game is your game. I’d say go for it BUT make sure you get PROPERLY fitted for that 1/2 iron. Get the right shaft with the proper launch characteristics for you. While you’re at it, also get fit for a 3 wood. Practice with them both and get to learn how to use them both to your advantage. You may find that you’ll play courses that might dictate one over the other. In true WRX fashion, it is better to have more clubs than you need versus not having a full arsenal of weapons!

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If you’re in the the drive for show crowd then look at either 1 or 2 iron and blow your playing partners or opponents out of the park with your length. Handicap is only only an indication of your ability and being off 10 or 12 only indicates that you have a few bad holes each game and if you can reduce the mistakes then your handicap will drop to a level that shows your ability.

So work out where you lose strokes and work on that.

I have never hit 300 yards and play close to 10 handicap.

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I would not recommend anyone use a 1-iron. I've played one for years and it's just too hard a club to actually hit good.

It's a long shafted, low lofted, almost no bounce iron with less MOI than you'd get in a fairwaywood. Honestly you'd probably be better of with a combination of: 5wood shaft, 3wood head (or 4wood), couple of lessons. (Less flicking of the hands, work on shaftlean, ball position, shallowing the swing a bit)

While you're getting lessons, you might want to look into short game too. Much more to win there :)

 

Edit: I actually hit mine yesterday on GCQuad indoor. It was God-awful :D That's all me though, I just don't like the offset on it, the low-MOI and the general looks don't actually give me any confidence :P

Slapping the ball around a bit, having loads of fun.

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I think you're a little crazy for trying to put a 1 iron in. Not only will it be difficult to launch with any trajectory, but accuracy will be difficult as well. I'd work on trying to fix the 3 wood issue or try another 3 wood. A quick thing you might try is moving the ball back in your stance with the 3 wood and maybe teeing it down a little bit. To top a ball, you are basically hitting the ball with the sole of the club, so you are probably swinging up at the point of impact. Move it back and little so you are hitting with more of a downward strike on it. See if that helps.

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