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Clubbuilding: Epoxy or Grips first?


RobDMB

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Just curious, do most people epoxy/install the shafts in the heads first and then grip after? Or vice versa? Any pros/cons to one or the other? Also, for those that do the epoxy/head first using a split grip, do you account for the tape/epoxy in terms of swing weight? If so, how much or do they offset? Thanks!

Taylormade M3 8.5* Driver
Callaway Apex 20* Hybrid
Taylormade UDI 2-Iron
Taylormade P760 4-AW w/ PX 6.5
Cleveland RTX-3 55*/60*
Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum Newport Mil-Spec

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7 minutes ago, kwcsports said:

I always install shafts, cut to length, grips are last. 


Agreed!

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Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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HI, I read this as a swingweight question.  Try dry fitting the head and cut to length (install the grip tape; temporarily tape the ferrule to the head). Since the grip is held in the hands, it won't  and   shouldn't have much effect on the head weight feel so then we should swingweight without the grip . 

 

For example, a 52g grip divided by 5.2 =10 swingwt. points  so if your test club has a target of D2 then swingweighting without a grip means you need to see E2 on the scale. Now install the necessary tip weight, ferrule and shaft.

 

After you install the grip, the scale reads D2.

 

Its another way clubmakers build clubs.

epoxy = approx 1/4 point or so.

Hope this helps

M60

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Personally, the grip was always the last thing to be installed.  Dry fitting and swingweighting would be done with a cut/split grip.  Lately while watching youtube I have seen a few Mizuno build videos where they insist on building with the grip on first.  They are being a lot more exact than any of us would be so I would say grip last.

Driver:    2021 Cobra Rad Speed Peacote 9* w Kuro Kage 60g Silver TiNi Dual-Core Shaft 

Fairway Woods: 2014 Adams Tight Lies 14° 3 Wood w Kuro Kage 65g Shaft tipped 1 inch

                           2015 Adams Tight Lies 22° 7 Wood w Kuro Kage 65g Shaft tipped 1 inch

Irons:  2016 Nike Vapor Fly 4-AW   

 Wedges:  2017 Cleveland CBX 56°& 60°wedge              
Shafts:  Matrix Ozik Program F15 85S Graphite Shafts 4i - 60°

Grips:   Superstroke S-Tech + 2 Wraps
Putter:  Gamer -  2020 Odyssey Stroke Lab 7s Black w Superstroke Claw 1.0 grip at 35in.

             Backup - Custom Built Bastain Milled Prototype w Px 6.0 shaft and Lamkin Deep Etched Cord Grip at 33in.

                           Ball:  Taylor Made 21' Rocketballz            Bag:  Ogio Fuse Whiskey            Glove: MG Dyna-Grip Elite             Current Shoes: True Linkswear Motion phx

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14 hours ago, RobDMB said:

Just curious, do most people epoxy/install the shafts in the heads first and then grip after? Or vice versa? Any pros/cons to one or the other? Also, for those that do the epoxy/head first using a split grip, do you account for the tape/epoxy in terms of swing weight? If so, how much or do they offset? Thanks!

I have only been building clubs for 25+ years, but I always epoxy first, then install grips. Unless you want to fix some crooked grips.

 

Stop overthinking about tape and epoxy, they basically cancel each other out. 

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Titleist TSi3 w/Oban Kiyoshi White 6X 
Titleist TSi2 15 degree w/Accra TZ6 75 M5

Titleist TSi2 21 degree w/Accra TZ6 75 M5 

Srixon ZX5 4-6 w/KBS TGI 110 (SS 1x) @1/2" over standard

Srixon ZX7 7-PW w/KBS TGI 110 (SS 1x) @1/2" over standard
Titleist Vokey SM8 Raw 50/54/58 KBS TGI 110 (SS 1x) @1/2" over standard
Toulon Las Vegas custom w/BGT Tour 

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3 minutes ago, liveagua said:

Stop overthinking about tape and epoxy, they basically cancel each other out. 

 

I'll take that sentiment one step further.  Stop thinking of butt weight as a variable, that's not what the swing weight scale is about.   It's better to adjust head weight with single split grip for all the clubs in the set, or better yet, no grip at all  (e.g. just make the target 9 pts higher than what you would with the grip).  That allows you to ignore the manufacturing variations in actual grip weights.

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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12 hours ago, Manz60 said:

For example, a 52g grip divided by 5.2 =10 swingwt. points  so if your test club has a target of D2 then swingweighting without a grip means you need to see E2 on the scale. Now install the necessary tip weight, ferrule and shaft.

 

After you install the grip, the scale reads D2.

 

9 pts is more commonly used (E1 to get D2) since the grip typically can add 1/8" to 1/4" to the playing length.  But of course that can depend on the particular grip model used.  I've had some grips that only added maybe 1/16" so for those the 10 pt difference might work well.

Edited by Stuart_G
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2 hours ago, liveagua said:

I have only been building clubs for 25+ years, but I always epoxy first, then install grips. Unless you want to fix some crooked grips.

 

Stop overthinking about tape and epoxy, they basically cancel each other out. 

 This👏

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Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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  • 5 weeks later...

Weight everything, see if you need to adjust SW, cut to length, install shafts, grips are DFL

Driver:     TSi3, 9º set to 8.25º, Diamana D+ Ltd, Blackboard D70+, X
FWs:        TSi3, 15º set to 13.25º and 18º set to 17.25º, Diamana D+ Ltd, Blackboard, D80+, X
Irons:       Srixon ZU85, 18º, 40.5", Tensei White 90 HY, X
                 Srixon ZX, 20º bent to 21º, KBS Tour HY Proto 95, X
                 Srixon Z585 5, bent to 24º (4) and 6 bent to 27º (5), NM 3, 130 X
                 Titleist 670 forged, 6-9, NM 3, 130 X
Wedges:  Titleist
  SM7 F Raw, 46º-10º, NM 3, 130 X; Cally MD Forged Black, 50º-10º

                  and 54º-10ºm NM 3, 130 S; PM Grind Black, 60º and 64º, NM 3, 130 S
Putter:      Titleist Scotty Studio Stainless NP 2, 35"
Ball:          Titleist Pro V1 - Club rotation varies according to course and weather conditions, scoring remains constantly awful... lols

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On 5/27/2021 at 10:49 AM, liveagua said:

I have only been building clubs for 25+ years, but I always epoxy first, then install grips. Unless you want to fix some crooked grips.

 

Stop overthinking about tape and epoxy, they basically cancel each other out. 

Agreed. Unless you fill up the shaft with epoxy from end to end (or use 6+ double side  grip tape), both of them cancel out. 

Driver:     TSi3, 9º set to 8.25º, Diamana D+ Ltd, Blackboard D70+, X
FWs:        TSi3, 15º set to 13.25º and 18º set to 17.25º, Diamana D+ Ltd, Blackboard, D80+, X
Irons:       Srixon ZU85, 18º, 40.5", Tensei White 90 HY, X
                 Srixon ZX, 20º bent to 21º, KBS Tour HY Proto 95, X
                 Srixon Z585 5, bent to 24º (4) and 6 bent to 27º (5), NM 3, 130 X
                 Titleist 670 forged, 6-9, NM 3, 130 X
Wedges:  Titleist
  SM7 F Raw, 46º-10º, NM 3, 130 X; Cally MD Forged Black, 50º-10º

                  and 54º-10ºm NM 3, 130 S; PM Grind Black, 60º and 64º, NM 3, 130 S
Putter:      Titleist Scotty Studio Stainless NP 2, 35"
Ball:          Titleist Pro V1 - Club rotation varies according to course and weather conditions, scoring remains constantly awful... lols

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I also prefer to tip trim, then glue heads, then butt trim, adjust SW as needed, then grip. Works well for me. 

Driver - Cobra LTDx LS - 8*

Woods - Cobra LTDx 14*

Hybrids - Ping G425 19, 22, 26, 30

Irons - Maltby KE4 Max 8-GW

Wedges - Maltby TSW 54, 60

Putter - Scotty Cameron Futura X Armlock

 

My WITB Shenanigans

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I always epoxy and trim first before putting on the grips.  I also use a split grip with bit of lead tape on it to compensate for the additional weight of the grip tape and any build up tape. I have several split grips of varying weights to account for the varying weight of the grip. Is it perfect? Maybe not, but I am usually within a .5 to 1 SW of where I want it to be. 

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I always found it easier to measure, Cut , Grip , swingweight, then epoxy. Especially when using tip weights. Maybe it was because that was the way I was taught when I was 7 by my grandfather.  If you go old school and use lead or tungsten powder and cork then epoxy , then cut. I have seen a majority of tour techs and factory in house Tour Dept. guys cut, grip weight, then epoxy.  

 

I just put together a 3 wood the other night using using; Cut , Grip , swingweight (Hotmelted the head), then epoxy. Came out D3 on the number, at 42.75". 

Driver: Titleist TSi3 9.5* w/ UST Mamiya Chrome 6TF5 

3 Wood: Tour Edge CBX 119 16.5 w/ PX Evenflow Blue 6.5

Hybrid: Fourteen Prototype 2 iron Bent to 20* w/ UST Mamiya Proto 125 X

Irons: Fourteen FH1000 4-PW 1*Strong/1*Up w/ KBS $Taper S+ +1/2

GW: Fourteen RM12 - 50/10   w/ KBS $Taper S+ +1/2

SW:  Fourteen RM12 – 54.5/10.5   w/ KBS 610 130 +1/2

LW:  Fourteen RM12 - 59/9   w/ KBS 610 130 +1/2

Putter: Odyssey 1W Milled / EVNROLL ER2 @ 34”,4* & 71* w/ Ionmic Mid Size

Ball: Taking Applications For Open Position !!! 

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I use the minimum tip weights required to get a 7 gram progression, but don't worry about swingweight at all.

I might if it was really light, but have never ran into this.

Srixon Z545 8.5° - Attas 11 7S
Honma TW747 3HL (16.5°) - Tour AD-IZ 7S

Honma TW747 7 wood - Attas 5 GoGo 7S

Honma TW-X 3 iron - Vizzard 85S (alternates with LW)

4-PW 2015 OnOff Forged Kuro - AMT Tour White X100 SSx2

50°-08 - Fourteen RM-4 - AMT X100
56°-10 - Fourteen RM-4 H grind - AMT X100
64°-10 - Callaway Jaws Full Toe Black - Dynamic Gold Spinner (alternates with 3 iron)

Piretti Cottonwood II, 375g - KBS GPS, P2 Aware Tour

Grips - Star Sidewinder 360

Maxfli Tour Yellow

Vessel Player III - Iridium

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4 hours ago, Ger21 said:

I use the minimum tip weights required to get a 7 gram progression, but don't worry about swingweight at all.

I might if it was really light, but have never ran into this.

Nonsense.  Just because the heads are 7 grams apart has only a very little bearing on the final swing-weight.  Even if you have 7 of the exact shafts there may be an outlier re swingweight.  The absolutely only way to ensure consistent SW is to pre assemble all components and go from there.  

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The point was that I'm not concerned about the final swingweight, and have never noticed any differences, which probably do exist. I was adding on to the post before mine.

Srixon Z545 8.5° - Attas 11 7S
Honma TW747 3HL (16.5°) - Tour AD-IZ 7S

Honma TW747 7 wood - Attas 5 GoGo 7S

Honma TW-X 3 iron - Vizzard 85S (alternates with LW)

4-PW 2015 OnOff Forged Kuro - AMT Tour White X100 SSx2

50°-08 - Fourteen RM-4 - AMT X100
56°-10 - Fourteen RM-4 H grind - AMT X100
64°-10 - Callaway Jaws Full Toe Black - Dynamic Gold Spinner (alternates with 3 iron)

Piretti Cottonwood II, 375g - KBS GPS, P2 Aware Tour

Grips - Star Sidewinder 360

Maxfli Tour Yellow

Vessel Player III - Iridium

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6 hours ago, denkea said:

Nonsense.  Just because the heads are 7 grams apart has only a very little bearing on the final swing-weight.  Even if you have 7 of the exact shafts there may be an outlier re swingweight.  The absolutely only way to ensure consistent SW is to pre assemble all components and go from there.  

 

Not even slightly true.  I just completed another build (this time for @Phabs) and I do not use dry build-ups to figure out swingweighting... ever.  If you have the data from the individual components and use the science/math of MOI, you can build clubs with higher precision and save time.  It doesn't matter whether it's a swingweight matched set or MOI matched, the same science applies.

 

I know that not every builder is going to run out and buy the MOI Auditor machine, but it sure makes life easier...

Edited by Noodler
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On 5/27/2021 at 9:04 AM, cristphoto said:

Grip last - totally eliminates possibility of air lock. 

 

And the occasional case of small epoxy bits or debris causing a rattle/ 

TSR2 8*, Diamana BG 60TX

TSR1 15*, Diamana BF 80TX

TSR1 20°, Atmos TS Blue HB 8x 
Mizuno MP Fli Hi 21°, Recoil 110

JPX 923 Forged  5-P, DG120 X100
RTX6  50, 54, 58 MID (AMT White X100)
Odyssey Eleven S
Tour BX

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