Cobra's new King F9 Speedback Driver, Woods, Hybrids and Irons (NO BUY SELL TRADE POSTS)

[dlamb83]

As I follow this thread it seems the common sayings are spin is a bit up there. I have been wondering if the Cnc milling has anything to do with spin numbers being high(er)?

 

If the face has cnc milling similar to a wedge. I know it’s not exact same milling,but usually milling creates spin. Makes me wonder. We only ever hear milling helps create spin in the golf world. One wouldn’t want milling on a driver face then. Just me thinking out loud though. I know it probably has more to do with feel,but again,makes me wonder.

 

Most of the professional reviews I have seem with #s have the spin lower than most heads. I would tend to trust them more than the amateur golfer. Not that the amateurs aren't seeing higher numbers, but they also have a higher chance of not delivering the loft properly or not having it tuned in.

 

I agree 100% with what you’re saying. I don’t hit the ball dead in middle 100% of time myself. Why it got me thinking if you hit across as a slice or hit down with driving the milling will create extra spin. Of course,again, I’m thinking of it as milling on a wedge per se.

[jabwind51]

 

Completely agree with above...BUT I had one drive with tape on the face and the impact was 100% in the circle at 125 mph club head speed, 174.4 ball speed, 310 carry, 12 yard butter fade and 2751 spin, 9.2 launch angle, 1.42 smash (machine never gets above 1.45 I am told)

 

I was using Atmos 6X Black TS and loft set at 7.5.

 

Literally didn’t think I could hit it any better

 

Would impact tape have caused that spin to be higher? Would lead tape as mentioned help?

[t4t3r]

I’m not sure how small it is, last I checked the Atmos Black TS would cost you $200-$300 bucks aftermarket. Same with the Helium, Atmos Blue TS, etc.

 

Atmos are pretty easy to find for around $100. Maybe not brand new uncut, but a single-owner with knowledge of the install/tipping aren’t rare. I had a black and a blue last year that I may not have even gotten that much for each. Unfortunately buying new shafts is rarely a good value.

[Man_O_War]

sounds like 10.5 turned down to 9.5 gives the best numbers?

[Big Ben]

I’m not sure how small it is, last I checked the Atmos Black TS would cost you $200-$300 bucks aftermarket. Same with the Helium, Atmos Blue TS, etc.

 

Atmos are pretty easy to find for around $100. Maybe not brand new uncut, but a single-owner with knowledge of the install/tipping aren’t rare. I had a black and a blue last year that I may not have even gotten that much for each. Unfortunately buying new shafts is rarely a good value.

Ok, but that’s not what you will get if you purchase a brand new Cobra driver. I’m not sure I understand your point.

[Captain Morgan]

Another good review from TXG. The F9 will surprise a lot of people this year. Cheers to Cobra.

 

[davo32683]

sounds like 10.5 turned down to 9.5 gives the best numbers?

 

That will be totally dependent on the golfer

[Jagpilotohio]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

[jabwind51]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Thanks for the info. I don’t know much about this. But in my example above I thought I had a +AOA and impact tape showed perfect sweet spot strike with still 2750 spin. Shaft felt great. Could I benefit from tipping 0.5 inch and maintain same 45.5 length? That help lower spin slightly to 2400-2600 as you say?

[GolfChannel]

Another good review from TXG. The F9 will surprise a lot of people this year. Cheers to Cobra.

 

 

This was posted earlier, we are now waiting for all the in studio testing to be done when the TXG guys return home from the PGA Show.

[Jagpilotohio]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Thanks for the info. I don’t know much about this. But in my example above I thought I had a +AOA and impact tape showed perfect sweet spot strike with still 2750 spin. Shaft felt great. Could I benefit from tipping 0.5 inch and maintain same 45.5 length? That help lower spin slightly to 2400-2600 as you say?

 

Not enough info. Swingspeed? Average AoA? Which shaft did you test with? Predominantly Draw spin or fade spin? If you play a fade you probably will never get below 2600.

 

Tipping usually lowers spin a hair, but it also stiffens the shaft. At some point that extra stiffness feels bad.

 

Slightly off topic....Regarding playing it at 45.5”?? Look above my avatar for my rather strong opinion on that. The single Worst thing to happen to golf equipment in the last 30 years is the obscene “standard” 45+ inch driver lengths which actually suit perhaps 10-15% of golfers.

 

Millions and millions of strokes would be saved each year if drivers were rolled back to the 44” standard of the 80’s.....Mini rant over.

 

[GolfChannel]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Maybe this should go in a separate thread, but if you could entertain me, what causes a swing to be so low spin on its own? I have always had a problem with my woods not generating enough spin. Not a problem when I had a higher SS, but with my now average SS I still generate the same low spin numbers and experience the “dead duck” flight mentioned.

[pearls24]

I hit the F9 at the Demo Day at the Show and was really impressed. It was just the stock Project X Smoke shaft but the face felt very hot to me and the ball flight was very good.

[jabwind51]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Thanks for the info. I don’t know much about this. But in my example above I thought I had a +AOA and impact tape showed perfect sweet spot strike with still 2750 spin. Shaft felt great. Could I benefit from tipping 0.5 inch and maintain same 45.5 length? That help lower spin slightly to 2400-2600 as you say?

 

Not enough info. Swingspeed? Average AoA? Which shaft did you test with? Predominantly Draw spin or fade spin? If you play a fade you probably will never get below 2600.

 

Tipping usually lowers spin a hair, but it also stiffens the shaft. At some point that extra stiffness feels bad.

 

Slightly off topic....Regarding playing it at 45.5”?? Look above my avatar for my rather strong opinion on that. The single Worst thing to happen to golf equipment in the last 30 years is the obscene “standard” 45+ inch driver lengths which actually suit perhaps 10-15% of golfers.

 

Millions and millions of strokes would be saved each year if drivers were rolled back to the 44” standard of the 80’s.....Mini rant over.

 

Wow. Thank you. I did have my drivers 44.5 length or shorter but impact tape showed I hit middle pretty close on longer shafts these days in comparison and I’m moving back to stock length of 45.5. I’m alsi 6 foot 1 if that matters slightly.

 

As for your question, I do tend to have a slight push fade and later release with 3 degree in to out plane typically

 

Cobra F9 9 degrees, set to 7.5 degrees, Atmos Black TS 6X

 

125 club speed

174.5 ball speed

9.2 launch angle

2751 spin

310 carry

12 yard fade

1.42 smash (machine never gets above 1.45 I am told) and impact tape couldn’t have been more centered in sweet spot

 

I’m sill inclined to buy the F9 with this shaft and perhaps adjust a few swing parameters rather than just tip the shaft.

 

[Jagpilotohio]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Maybe this should go in a separate thread, but if you could entertain me, what causes a swing to be so low spin on its own? I have always had a problem with my woods not generating enough spin. Not a problem when I had a higher SS, but with my now average SS I still generate the same low spin numbers and experience the “dead duck” flight mentioned.

 

It is an interesting problem for quite a few people. Finding a driver with ENOUGH spin to be playable. It’s so common for people, and fitters, to try and absolutely maximize what the monitor says, but that swing and that driver setup are often terrible for actually PLAYING golf.

 

Anyway. With your particular issue. I’m guessing you have a positive AoA, a classic slight push draw, and modestly quick speed around 100+

 

When a person with modest CHS has an excellent “distance” swing, a positive AoA and slight push draw, they must be very careful to AVOID those super low spin driver set ups that get them down around the “dangerous” area of 2100 or less revs.

 

A perfect example. What if Rory swung exactly like he does now, but at 100 mph? He would never want to play a super low spin driver head and shaft setup. He’d never play a subzero model or an M driver with the weights forward. The slightest overdraw or toe hit would dive into the ground at about 220 yards.

 

One of the hardest things to do in fitting is to get a naturally low spin player to understand that maxing out the launch monitor is NOT always the ideal goal to finding a good “playing driver”.

 

A good combination for many people in this predicament is a “standard” head set up and more tip active shaft. Let the shaft contribute an extra couple hundred revs. Weight back in the head if it’s an option. Loft up a degree. Try and reduce the AoA slightly. Lots of subtle things can be altered, but you are correct in thinking that certain equipment just isn’t a good fit for certain “low spin” golfers.....no matter what some of those monster numbers might read on the sim.

[jabwind51]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Maybe this should go in a separate thread, but if you could entertain me, what causes a swing to be so low spin on its own? I have always had a problem with my woods not generating enough spin. Not a problem when I had a higher SS, but with my now average SS I still generate the same low spin numbers and experience the “dead duck” flight mentioned.

 

It is an interesting problem for quite a few people. Finding a driver with ENOUGH spin to be playable. It’s so common for people, and fitters, to try and absolutely maximize what the monitor says, but that swing and that driver setup are often terrible for actually PLAYING golf.

 

Anyway. With your particular issue. I’m guessing you have a positive AoA, a classic slight push draw, and modestly quick speed around 100+

 

When a person with modest CHS has an excellent “distance” swing, a positive AoA and slight push draw, they must be very careful to AVOID those super low spin driver set ups that get them down around the “dangerous” area of 2100 or less revs.

 

A perfect example. What if Rory swung exactly like he does now, but at 100 mph? He would never want to play a super low spin driver head and shaft setup. He’d never play a subzero model or an M driver with the weights forward. The slightest overdraw or toe hit would dive into the ground at about 220 yards.

 

One of the hardest things to do in fitting is to get a naturally low spin player to understand that maxing out the launch monitor is NOT always the ideal goal to finding a good “playing driver”.

 

A good combination for many people in this predicament is a “standard” head set up and more tip active shaft. Let the shaft contribute an extra couple hundred revs. Weight back in the head if it’s an option. Loft up a degree. Try and reduce the AoA slightly. Lots of subtle things can be altered, but you are correct in thinking that certain equipment just isn’t a good fit for certain “low spin” golfers.....no matter what some of those monster numbers might read on the sim.

 

Wow ? super knowledgeable...Give me insight above please ha.

[cxx]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn't get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Thanks for the info. I don't know much about this. But in my example above I thought I had a +AOA and impact tape showed perfect sweet spot strike with still 2750 spin. Shaft felt great. Could I benefit from tipping 0.5 inch and maintain same 45.5 length? That help lower spin slightly to 2400-2600 as you say?

 

Not enough info. Swingspeed? Average AoA? Which shaft did you test with? Predominantly Draw spin or fade spin? If you play a fade you probably will never get below 2600.

 

Tipping usually lowers spin a hair, but it also stiffens the shaft. At some point that extra stiffness feels bad.

 

Slightly off topic....Regarding playing it at 45.5"?? Look above my avatar for my rather strong opinion on that. The single Worst thing to happen to golf equipment in the last 30 years is the obscene "standard" 45+ inch driver lengths which actually suit perhaps 10-15% of golfers.

 

Millions and millions of strokes would be saved each year if drivers were rolled back to the 44" standard of the 80's.....Mini rant over.

 

Wow. Thank you. I did have my drivers 44.5 length or shorter but impact tape showed I hit middle pretty close on longer shafts these days in comparison and I'm moving back to stock length of 45.5. I'm alsi 6 foot 1 if that matters slightly.

 

As for your question, I do tend to have a slight push fade and later release with 3 degree in to out plane typically

 

Cobra F9 9 degrees, set to 7.5 degrees, Atmos Black TS 6X

 

125 club speed

174.5 ball speed

9.2 launch angle

2751 spin

310 carry

12 yard fade

1.42 smash (machine never gets above 1.45 I am told) and impact tape couldn't have been more centered in sweet spot

 

I'm sill inclined to buy the F9 with this shaft and perhaps adjust a few swing parameters rather than just tip the shaft.

 

What kind of machine doesn't give an accurate smash factor?

 

I'd try teeing it up a little higher and getting that impact spot a little higher on the face.

[jabwind51]

Hah. That’s what I said about the smash. But trackman driver I average 1.48 over about 40 shots

 

I did notice the tees they have were pretty low and I kept feeling I could tee if a little higher.

 

[rgk5]

My impressions after hitting the F9 last evening.

 

It sets up with a pleasing profile, similar to my F8+. I had it set to 10.5*, with the R flex Helium shaft (40 grams). Center hits felt excellent and produced an average launch angle of 13.9* with spin rates between 1780 and 2250 RPM. I had the 14 gram weight in the forward postion like my F8+. Dispersion was very consistent. On this web site and others, some were complaining about the sound. I found it to be no issue and again similar to the F8+.

 

Factoring in the price of $549 Canadian, it is $100 to $150 less than the competition. Combining all mentioned above, I consider it the best buy for 2019.

[Jagpilotohio]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Thanks for the info. I don’t know much about this. But in my example above I thought I had a +AOA and impact tape showed perfect sweet spot strike with still 2750 spin. Shaft felt great. Could I benefit from tipping 0.5 inch and maintain same 45.5 length? That help lower spin slightly to 2400-2600 as you say?

 

Not enough info. Swingspeed? Average AoA? Which shaft did you test with? Predominantly Draw spin or fade spin? If you play a fade you probably will never get below 2600.

 

Tipping usually lowers spin a hair, but it also stiffens the shaft. At some point that extra stiffness feels bad.

 

Slightly off topic....Regarding playing it at 45.5”?? Look above my avatar for my rather strong opinion on that. The single Worst thing to happen to golf equipment in the last 30 years is the obscene “standard” 45+ inch driver lengths which actually suit perhaps 10-15% of golfers.

 

Millions and millions of strokes would be saved each year if drivers were rolled back to the 44” standard of the 80’s.....Mini rant over.

 

Wow. Thank you. I did have my drivers 44.5 length or shorter but impact tape showed I hit middle pretty close on longer shafts these days in comparison and I’m moving back to stock length of 45.5. I’m alsi 6 foot 1 if that matters slightly.

 

As for your question, I do tend to have a slight push fade and later release with 3 degree in to out plane typically

 

Cobra F9 9 degrees, set to 7.5 degrees, Atmos Black TS 6X

 

125 club speed

174.5 ball speed

9.2 launch angle

2751 spin

310 carry

12 yard fade

1.42 smash (machine never gets above 1.45 I am told) and impact tape couldn’t have been more centered in sweet spot

 

I’m sill inclined to buy the F9 with this shaft and perhaps adjust a few swing parameters rather than just tip the shaft.

 

Just to clarify, I’d never talk anyone out of a 45+ inch driver if that is indeed what works best for them. Taller people with shorter arms for their height are often just fine with with 45+ inch drivers. It’s just frustrating that they have become “standard” and MOST people shouldn’t use them.

 

Anyway. Regarding your numbers. Extremely impressive. I actually think 2751 given your speed and the fact you play a fade is essentially maximized with that set up. That 6X shaft is not at all ideal for you. I swing 110 and that’s what I would use if I ordered one for myself.

 

If I were fitting you and you wanted to stay in a stock shaft I would recommend going to the black 7x tipped an inch. At 125 you are officially a beast. Top .5% of all swing speeds. Very tricky fit.

 

If money was no object I would order a Tensei Pro Orange in a 70tx, or I would order a Standard shaft, pull it and set it aside for resale down the road, and talk to JT at Toll Bros and see about getting super exotic low spin tour shaft. Perhaps the new aldila tour Green 70TX that Rahm has in his TM now.

 

A better shaft fit should shave another 200-300 revs for you.....and you would officially be REALLY long.

[Z1ggy16]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Maybe this should go in a separate thread, but if you could entertain me, what causes a swing to be so low spin on its own? I have always had a problem with my woods not generating enough spin. Not a problem when I had a higher SS, but with my now average SS I still generate the same low spin numbers and experience the “dead duck” flight mentioned.

 

It is an interesting problem for quite a few people. Finding a driver with ENOUGH spin to be playable. It’s so common for people, and fitters, to try and absolutely maximize what the monitor says, but that swing and that driver setup are often terrible for actually PLAYING golf.

 

Anyway. With your particular issue. I’m guessing you have a positive AoA, a classic slight push draw, and modestly quick speed around 100+

 

When a person with modest CHS has an excellent “distance” swing, a positive AoA and slight push draw, they must be very careful to AVOID those super low spin driver set ups that get them down around the “dangerous” area of 2100 or less revs.

 

A perfect example. What if Rory swung exactly like he does now, but at 100 mph? He would never want to play a super low spin driver head and shaft setup. He’d never play a subzero model or an M driver with the weights forward. The slightest overdraw or toe hit would dive into the ground at about 220 yards.

 

One of the hardest things to do in fitting is to get a naturally low spin player to understand that maxing out the launch monitor is NOT always the ideal goal to finding a good “playing driver”.

 

A good combination for many people in this predicament is a “standard” head set up and more tip active shaft. Let the shaft contribute an extra couple hundred revs. Weight back in the head if it’s an option. Loft up a degree. Try and reduce the AoA slightly. Lots of subtle things can be altered, but you are correct in thinking that certain equipment just isn’t a good fit for certain “low spin” golfers.....no matter what some of those monster numbers might read on the sim.

Truer words have never been spoken!! Amen to this.

 

I'm around 110-115 with driver and I want spin around 2400, lowest. I'm happy losing 5 yards of roll out for a fairway instead of 10 yards in the rough because my low spin draw over-turned.

 

An aside... the F9 looks so good, sound wise.. looks wise... and spin wise. I haven't seen any low spin crazy bombers like you can get with M5 and SZ. I'll be so tempted to buy it this year.

[GolfChannel]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Maybe this should go in a separate thread, but if you could entertain me, what causes a swing to be so low spin on its own? I have always had a problem with my woods not generating enough spin. Not a problem when I had a higher SS, but with my now average SS I still generate the same low spin numbers and experience the “dead duck” flight mentioned.

 

It is an interesting problem for quite a few people. Finding a driver with ENOUGH spin to be playable. It’s so common for people, and fitters, to try and absolutely maximize what the monitor says, but that swing and that driver setup are often terrible for actually PLAYING golf.

 

Anyway. With your particular issue. I’m guessing you have a positive AoA, a classic slight push draw, and modestly quick speed around 100+

 

When a person with modest CHS has an excellent “distance” swing, a positive AoA and slight push draw, they must be very careful to AVOID those super low spin driver set ups that get them down around the “dangerous” area of 2100 or less revs.

 

A perfect example. What if Rory swung exactly like he does now, but at 100 mph? He would never want to play a super low spin driver head and shaft setup. He’d never play a subzero model or an M driver with the weights forward. The slightest overdraw or toe hit would dive into the ground at about 220 yards.

 

One of the hardest things to do in fitting is to get a naturally low spin player to understand that maxing out the launch monitor is NOT always the ideal goal to finding a good “playing driver”.

 

A good combination for many people in this predicament is a “standard” head set up and more tip active shaft. Let the shaft contribute an extra couple hundred revs. Weight back in the head if it’s an option. Loft up a degree. Try and reduce the AoA slightly. Lots of subtle things can be altered, but you are correct in thinking that certain equipment just isn’t a good fit for certain “low spin” golfers.....no matter what some of those monster numbers might read on the sim.

 

Never seen me swing, described my issues to a “t”. Thanks Yoda.

[t4t3r]

I'm not sure how small it is, last I checked the Atmos Black TS would cost you $200-$300 bucks aftermarket. Same with the Helium, Atmos Blue TS, etc.

 

Atmos are pretty easy to find for around $100. Maybe not brand new uncut, but a single-owner with knowledge of the install/tipping aren't rare. I had a black and a blue last year that I may not have even gotten that much for each. Unfortunately buying new shafts is rarely a good value.

Ok, but that's not what you will get if you purchase a brand new Cobra driver. I'm not sure I understand your point.

 

While you're getting a shaft that was brand new, uncut at one time, it's been cut and gripped and is no longer a new shaft. It may have never been used, but it's still no longer new. My point then was just to compare values appropriately.

 

But...this wasn't meant to get away from the ultimate point which is that these offerings by Cobra as a no-upcharge option is fantastic. There is something for (almost) everyone in the Atmos lineup. Kudos to Cobra and I hope it continues.

 

Edit: I am hoping that Cobra gets some of the previous shaft options that were available back in stock. Unfortunately I don't have a Golf Galaxy or the like nearby as the only thing that scares me about the F9 is the triangular shape of which I'm not a huge fan.

[jabwind51]

Can anyone tell me the difference of having 18g in front vs 14g? My spin couldn’t get below 2400 and the guy suggested I try a heavier weight up front. I know the loft changes say they can change up to 700 RPM but curious. Thanks

 

4 grams extra up front will do nothing except make the Swingweight heavier by 3 points.

 

2400 is a very good playing spin number anyway. As usual, Way too many people seem to be obsessed with getting spin down to unplayable levels to maximize their numbers on a launch monitor.

 

2200-2600 is great for MOST people to actually PLAY with. You get down around 2000 and slight mishits fall out of the sky like a duck hit by a 12 gauge.

 

Thanks for the info. I don’t know much about this. But in my example above I thought I had a +AOA and impact tape showed perfect sweet spot strike with still 2750 spin. Shaft felt great. Could I benefit from tipping 0.5 inch and maintain same 45.5 length? That help lower spin slightly to 2400-2600 as you say?

 

Not enough info. Swingspeed? Average AoA? Which shaft did you test with? Predominantly Draw spin or fade spin? If you play a fade you probably will never get below 2600.

 

Tipping usually lowers spin a hair, but it also stiffens the shaft. At some point that extra stiffness feels bad.

 

Slightly off topic....Regarding playing it at 45.5”?? Look above my avatar for my rather strong opinion on that. The single Worst thing to happen to golf equipment in the last 30 years is the obscene “standard” 45+ inch driver lengths which actually suit perhaps 10-15% of golfers.

 

Millions and millions of strokes would be saved each year if drivers were rolled back to the 44” standard of the 80’s.....Mini rant over.

 

Wow. Thank you. I did have my drivers 44.5 length or shorter but impact tape showed I hit middle pretty close on longer shafts these days in comparison and I’m moving back to stock length of 45.5. I’m alsi 6 foot 1 if that matters slightly.

 

As for your question, I do tend to have a slight push fade and later release with 3 degree in to out plane typically

 

Cobra F9 9 degrees, set to 7.5 degrees, Atmos Black TS 6X

 

125 club speed

174.5 ball speed

9.2 launch angle

2751 spin

310 carry

12 yard fade

1.42 smash (machine never gets above 1.45 I am told) and impact tape couldn’t have been more centered in sweet spot

 

I’m sill inclined to buy the F9 with this shaft and perhaps adjust a few swing parameters rather than just tip the shaft.

 

Just to clarify, I’d never talk anyone out of a 45+ inch driver if that is indeed what works best for them. Taller people with shorter arms for their height are often just fine with with 45+ inch drivers. It’s just frustrating that they have become “standard” and MOST people shouldn’t use them.

 

Anyway. Regarding your numbers. Extremely impressive. I actually think 2751 given your speed and the fact you play a fade is essentially maximized with that set up. That 6X shaft is not at all ideal for you. I swing 110 and that’s what I would use if I ordered one for myself.

 

If I were fitting you and you wanted to stay in a stock shaft I would recommend going to the black 7x tipped an inch. At 125 you are officially a beast. Top .5% of all swing speeds. Very tricky fit.

 

If money was no object I would order a Tensei Pro Orange in a 70tx, or I would order a Standard shaft, pull it and set it aside for resale down the road, and talk to JT at Toll Bros and see about getting super exotic low spin tour shaft. Perhaps the new aldila tour Green 70TX that Rahm has in his TM now.

 

A better shaft fit should shave another 200-300 revs for you.....and you would officially be REALLY long.

 

Thank you so much for that....! I appreciate the time you took to write all that good info.

 

Unfortunately I can’t afford the upcharges and exotics unless I find a really good eBay deal.

 

I’ll try the tipped 1 inch. But it would be crazy to see the perfect optimized shaft for my speed lol

 

Also. I just thought that if I were using such as a TP5X ball vs a launch monitor 2 piece I could prob drop the spin just from that potentially

[awtryau89]

Another good review from TXG. The F9 will surprise a lot of people this year. Cheers to Cobra.

 

 

This was posted earlier, we are now waiting for all the in studio testing to be done when the TXG guys return home from the PGA Show.

 

Actually this was not posted earlier. This is a completely different review from the PGA Show Demo day where Ian and Matt are testing all the drivers on the same day and giving us a scorecard on the fastest. The original video was at Lake Nona. In this test the F9 edges out the Ping G410 for the fastest ball speeds hitting 177 with range balls. The only driver not tested in this setting so far is the Flash. Even so, the best they could get out of all the others was around 172. This is encouraging fro their side as they are not going to pull any punches. Matt even has the weight back and Ian mentions he could get even more speed if he put it forward.

[nsxguy]

Thanks for the info. I don't know much about this. But in my example above I thought I had a +AOA and impact tape showed perfect sweet spot strike with still 2750 spin. Shaft felt great. Could I benefit from tipping 0.5 inch and maintain same 45.5 length? That help lower spin slightly to 2400-2600 as you say?

 

Not enough info. Swingspeed? Average AoA? Which shaft did you test with? Predominantly Draw spin or fade spin? If you play a fade you probably will never get below 2600.

 

Tipping usually lowers spin a hair, but it also stiffens the shaft. At some point that extra stiffness feels bad.

 

Slightly off topic....Regarding playing it at 45.5"?? Look above my avatar for my rather strong opinion on that. The single Worst thing to happen to golf equipment in the last 30 years is the obscene "standard" 45+ inch driver lengths which actually suit perhaps 10-15% of golfers.

 

Millions and millions of strokes would be saved each year if drivers were rolled back to the 44" standard of the 80's.....Mini rant over.

 

Wow. Thank you. I did have my drivers 44.5 length or shorter but impact tape showed I hit middle pretty close on longer shafts these days in comparison and I'm moving back to stock length of 45.5. I'm alsi 6 foot 1 if that matters slightly.

 

As for your question, I do tend to have a slight push fade and later release with 3 degree in to out plane typically

 

Cobra F9 9 degrees, set to 7.5 degrees, Atmos Black TS 6X

 

125 club speed

174.5 ball speed

9.2 launch angle

2751 spin

310 carry

12 yard fade

1.42 smash (machine never gets above 1.45 I am told) and impact tape couldn't have been more centered in sweet spot

 

I'm sill inclined to buy the F9 with this shaft and perhaps adjust a few swing parameters rather than just tip the shaft.

 

Just to clarify, I'd never talk anyone out of a 45+ inch driver if that is indeed what works best for them. Taller people with shorter arms for their height are often just fine with with 45+ inch drivers. It's just frustrating that they have become "standard" and MOST people shouldn't use them.

 

Anyway. Regarding your numbers. Extremely impressive. I actually think 2751 given your speed and the fact you play a fade is essentially maximized with that set up. That 6X shaft is not at all ideal for you. I swing 110 and that's what I would use if I ordered one for myself.

 

If I were fitting you and you wanted to stay in a stock shaft I would recommend going to the black 7x tipped an inch. At 125 you are officially a beast. Top .5% of all swing speeds. Very tricky fit.

 

If money was no object I would order a Tensei Pro Orange in a 70tx, or I would order a Standard shaft, pull it and set it aside for resale down the road, and talk to JT at Toll Bros and see about getting super exotic low spin tour shaft. Perhaps the new aldila tour Green 70TX that Rahm has in his TM now.

 

A better shaft fit should shave another 200-300 revs for you.....and you would officially be REALLY long.

 

Are you a fitter ?

[Kale_m]

I hit the F9 last night with a tensei AV blue 65tx shaft

 

Really liked this driver. Low spin, great launch. Great feel, very muted sound.

 

Didn’t get on a launch monitor (that will come)

 

Very nice stick

[thammons]

So based on previous posts, if the preferred shaft isn’t showing up in the custom options list, it is just currently out of stock/back-ordered? DD price is fantastic so I may go ahead and order one if the EF T1100 comes back.

 

That would be correct. You can call Cobra directly and they will give you an ETA on when the shaft you’re looking for will be available.

[Jagpilotohio]

Thanks for the info. I don't know much about this. But in my example above I thought I had a +AOA and impact tape showed perfect sweet spot strike with still 2750 spin. Shaft felt great. Could I benefit from tipping 0.5 inch and maintain same 45.5 length? That help lower spin slightly to 2400-2600 as you say?

 

Not enough info. Swingspeed? Average AoA? Which shaft did you test with? Predominantly Draw spin or fade spin? If you play a fade you probably will never get below 2600.

 

Tipping usually lowers spin a hair, but it also stiffens the shaft. At some point that extra stiffness feels bad.

 

Slightly off topic....Regarding playing it at 45.5"?? Look above my avatar for my rather strong opinion on that. The single Worst thing to happen to golf equipment in the last 30 years is the obscene "standard" 45+ inch driver lengths which actually suit perhaps 10-15% of golfers.

 

Millions and millions of strokes would be saved each year if drivers were rolled back to the 44" standard of the 80's.....Mini rant over.

 

Wow. Thank you. I did have my drivers 44.5 length or shorter but impact tape showed I hit middle pretty close on longer shafts these days in comparison and I'm moving back to stock length of 45.5. I'm alsi 6 foot 1 if that matters slightly.

 

As for your question, I do tend to have a slight push fade and later release with 3 degree in to out plane typically

 

Cobra F9 9 degrees, set to 7.5 degrees, Atmos Black TS 6X

 

125 club speed

174.5 ball speed

9.2 launch angle

2751 spin

310 carry

12 yard fade

1.42 smash (machine never gets above 1.45 I am told) and impact tape couldn't have been more centered in sweet spot

 

I'm sill inclined to buy the F9 with this shaft and perhaps adjust a few swing parameters rather than just tip the shaft.

 

Just to clarify, I'd never talk anyone out of a 45+ inch driver if that is indeed what works best for them. Taller people with shorter arms for their height are often just fine with with 45+ inch drivers. It's just frustrating that they have become "standard" and MOST people shouldn't use them.

 

Anyway. Regarding your numbers. Extremely impressive. I actually think 2751 given your speed and the fact you play a fade is essentially maximized with that set up. That 6X shaft is not at all ideal for you. I swing 110 and that's what I would use if I ordered one for myself.

 

If I were fitting you and you wanted to stay in a stock shaft I would recommend going to the black 7x tipped an inch. At 125 you are officially a beast. Top .5% of all swing speeds. Very tricky fit.

 

If money was no object I would order a Tensei Pro Orange in a 70tx, or I would order a Standard shaft, pull it and set it aside for resale down the road, and talk to JT at Toll Bros and see about getting super exotic low spin tour shaft. Perhaps the new aldila tour Green 70TX that Rahm has in his TM now.

 

A better shaft fit should shave another 200-300 revs for you.....and you would officially be REALLY long.

 

Are you a fitter ?

 

Retired. Teaching Pro and professional fitter and clubmaker in the 90’s. Twist of fate changed my path back in ‘99.

[thammons]

For anyone questioning spin in the F9 being higher, I don’t know what to say because same shaft from my F8+ (Tensei Pro White 70x) in the F9 produced lower spin than with F8+. Yesterday I was 115 swing speed, 172 ball, 12* launch (loft at 7.5*), 2300 spin. Carry on average was right around 300 with 2 yards of roll out. Smash was also 1.49 on average. Basically....go test different drivers and multiple shafts. There are so many shafts available through Cobra that you can find something that works great for you and more than likely at no upcharge. Also, mine has been hot melted and standard 14g weight in the front.