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I am ready for blades - where do I start?


sonnygolf

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Used set of older ones like MP-33s, 32/67s or TP MBs.  Lots of quality sets you can get for not much and can be flipped for same amount when you're ready to get something newer.

Edited by setter02
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What's In The Ping Moonlite:
Ping Rapture '14 13*
Ping Rapture DI 18*
Titleist 690.CB 4/6/8/PW
Vokey TVD 54*
Odyssey Tank V-Line

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17 minutes ago, Aviador Naval said:

If you’re truly ready for blades it doesn’t matter what you pick - choose what you like to look at and what feels good to you when struck.

 

if you’re a poseur, stay away from Mizuno.  Great clubs - no bounce.   You’ll be laying sod all over the place and be stuck telling your partners you’re a +3 but just having a bad day...

Used to play links golf at university so switched to mizuno blades as I was playing 4/5 times a week and loved them. Made a big difference to my game. The issue was when I went home for the holidays my home course was a soft spongy mess compared to the rock hard links turf.

 

I did exactly what Aviador said, laid sod everywhere - I was off five and a good iron player then. So if you’re a poser or play a very soft course be warned they won’t be for you!

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Titleist TSR2 10 set at 11 Hzrdus Red CB
Titleist TSI2 16.5 Tensei Blue

Ping G 17.5 set at 18.5 Ping tour shaft.
Titleist TS3 hybrid 21 Tensei Blue
Taylormade 2023 p790 5-PW kbs tour lite
Vokey SM9 50°/12° SM8 56°/14° and SM9 60°/10°
Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport two
Taylormade TP5x

[i]Remember there are no pictures on a scorecard, only a number. [/i]

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6 hours ago, Aviador Naval said:

If you’re truly ready for blades it doesn’t matter what you pick - choose what you like to look at and what feels good to you when struck.

 

if you’re a poseur, stay away from Mizuno.  Great clubs - no bounce.   You’ll be laying sod all over the place and be stuck telling your partners you’re a +3 but just having a bad day...

So which blades have more bounce? 

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First off........Who do you think you are?!

 

 

 

 

 

/JK man. Hope you find a set that works for you. 

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TM Qi10 LS 9.0 Tour AD BB-7x 
TM Qi10 Tour 14.0 Graphite Design Tour AD BB-8x 
Titleist TSR2 18.0 HZRDUS Black 6.0
Mizuno 245 4-PW KB Tour C Taper 120 S
National Custom Works 48 Green KBS Tour High Rev 
National Custom Works 54 Green KBS Tour High Rev

National Custom Works 60 Green KBS Tour High Rev
Scotty Cameron Tei3 Newport 2 sole stamp 

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7 hours ago, sonnygolf said:

Ready to join the best players in the game by using the best type of clubs in the game. 

 

Question whats a good set to start with? 

Frankly, if you have to ask, your not ready.

Find the right set for your game, that means demo. 

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Play Golf.....Play Blades......Play Something Else.....Just Go Play.....

4 HC
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7 hours ago, Aviador Naval said:

If you’re truly ready for blades it doesn’t matter what you pick - choose what you like to look at and what feels good to you when struck.

 

if you’re a poseur, stay away from Mizuno.  Great clubs - no bounce.   You’ll be laying sod all over the place and be stuck telling your partners you’re a +3 but just having a bad day...


Some Mizuno models have bounce, some do not.  MS-11 / MP-11 were some of the earliest blades to actually have bounce, Hogan Apex possibly being the first.  

 

Some of the subsequent Mizunos had less.  The MP-37s brought bounce back.  I don't know about any models since then, I haven't tracked it.

 

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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7 hours ago, sonnygolf said:

Ready to join the best players in the game by using the best type of clubs in the game. 

 

Question whats a good set to start with? 

 

MacGregor VFoil 1025M.  Very good COG location, excellent sole design that is a bit more forgiving, and all in all a very easy to hit blade that still gives you excellent performance, and they feel incredible.  

 

 

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What makes you think you're ready?

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Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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ADAMS MB2's, one of the most forgiving ( for a blade ) blades ever made!!!!!!

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DRIVER -     PXG Black OPs Tour 1 - 8* | 🔥KHT AUTOFLEX SF505🔥   
2 WD -         PXG Gen 6  13* |  🔥KHT AUTOFLEX SF505🔥
  

2/3/4 Hybrids- PXG Gen 6 | Accra Tour 90i Stiff

IRONS -       PXG Gen 6 XP DOUBLE BLACK | MMT 80 Stiff                     
WEDGES -  PXG Sugar Daddy II 54*/13 and 58*/10 | MMT 80 Stiff  
GRIPS -       JUMBOMAX ULTRALIGHT 
PUTTER -   PXG One and Done w/Super Stroke 5.0
BAG -           PXG Staff Bag

 

 

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If you think you're ready then I suggest you get like a cheap set like a set of Wilson Staffs (FG-17 or made before the 1990s where its PW has the loft 52 deg) with blade profiles that are really small, thin soles, and little bounce.  If you can hit them solidly on a consistent basis you can play any modern blade.  When I started playing golf 20 years ago I thought blades would make me a better player and quicker so I bought a set of FG-17s and 1971 Button Backs.  Boy was I wrong.  I couldn't hit them consistently until years later.  But once I got to that point, I was ready to game a more recent set. 

 

Compared to my Wilsons, my 99 Apexs are a breeze to hit.

Edited by cgasucks
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10.5 deg Titleist 905R with stock UST Proforce V2 Shaft (Stiff flex)
Titleist 990 (3-PW) with stock Dynamic Gold in S300
Taylormade V-Steel 5W & 3W with Grafalloy Prolaunch Red shafts (Regular Flex)
2011 Adams Tom Watson signature wedges in 52 and 56 degrees with stock steel shafts (Player's Grind)
Rife Island Series Aruba Blade Putter

 

"Loft for loft, length for length, and shaft for shaft, the ball will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless how old the iron."

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I went through this in 2017, though just for fun, I would never have said I am ready to join the best players in the world lol.  Demoed a different blade every Sunday for months, trying different shafts and head combinations.  You probably won’t be surprised to learn that even your well-stocked local golf shop doesn’t have all the muscle backs in their fitting carts.  As such, I was limited to Srixon, Wilson Staff, and Mizuno to start.  Got to hit used sets of Titleist, Cleveland, Nike; Taylormade and Cobra on a demo day.  In the meantime, the FG 100 sold out or I might have bought a set.  I was still between MP-18 and Z965, and nearly ready to bite on Srixon, knowing I’d be building a combo set and not getting on with the SC or MMC at all.


My fitter at the time was hyping up the new Callaway Apex MB, which the demos came in bonded, but I knew my shaft by then anyway.  As soon as I hit it I knew that was the blade for me.  I comboed up with the X-Forged (even though they’re not similar at all) and had one of the first sets shipped that Thanksgiving.  I still have the set, just added the A wedge, and play them through the Summer months, moving to more forgiving irons during the Fall & Winter.

 

My takeaway, there are numerous subtle differences between all muscleback irons, the same as any other golf equipment.  It may take longer to find your ideal fit, but it’s ever so much more important to get the right fit.  Just grabbing any old used set won’t work.  Again like anything else, they won’t be built for your swing.

Spring 2024

Callaway Mavrik Max 1W 10.5° HZRDUS Smoke 60

Callaway Epic Flash SZ 3W 15° HZRDUS Smoke 70

Cobra LTDx LS 5W 17.5° HZRDUS Smoke 70

Cobra LTDx 4Hy 21° HZRDUS Smoke 80

Srixon ZU85 4U 23° / Z585 6i-7i / Z785 8i-AW

Cleveland RTX Zipcore 56° 60°
SeeMore Mini Giant DF / Piretti Teramo / MannKrafted MA99 Proto

https://www.golfwrx.com/660122/witb-golfwrx-members-edition-jbrunk/

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1 hour ago, uglande said:

"Where do I start?"

 

The same place you'll finish: Mizuno MP-20.

 

Nothing feels better. Reasonably priced. Surprisingly forgiving. Great stock shaft options. Can easily blend with other MP irons. The MMC is fantastic if you want more forgiveness in the longer irons. 

 

Shark Tank Laugh GIF by ABC Network

 

I'm trying to hide this from my wife, but I was looking at a backup set. They are the best irons I've ever used. 

Edited by gators78
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1 hour ago, cgasucks said:

If you think you're ready then I suggest you get like a cheap set like a set of Wilson Staffs (FG-17 or made before the 1990s where its PW has the loft 52 deg) with blade profiles that are really small, thin soles, and little bounce.  If you can hit them solidly on a consistent basis you can play any modern blade.  When I started playing golf 20 years ago I thought blades would make me a better player and quicker so I bought a set of FG-17s and 1971 Button Backs.  Boy was I wrong.  I couldn't hit them consistently until years later.  But once I got to that point, I was ready to game a more recent set. 

 

Compared to my Wilsons, my 99 Apexs are a breeze to hit.

Crazy how everyone that’s had 17s think they’re hard to hit. I find mine as easy to hit as a SGI , “for me” at least. Love me some FG 17s!!!!! 

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The Cool thing about blades is they are much less effected by technologic advances in club design. ie an older model work as well as something that came out in 2020. 

 

The other cool thing is used blades tend to hold their value.

 

These two factors give a you a great chance to grab a couple sets of used blades play them for a bit in real world conditions and decide what is right for you. Then sell what you don't like for what you paid. 

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2 hours ago, boggyman said:

Crazy how everyone that’s had 17s think they’re hard to hit. I find mine as easy to hit as a SGI , “for me” at least. Love me some FG 17s!!!!! 

In the beginning for me, the FG-17s were hard to hit and didn't realize the lofts were much weaker than I thought.  Now as my swing has improved much since then, I can pretty much play with any club.

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10.5 deg Titleist 905R with stock UST Proforce V2 Shaft (Stiff flex)
Titleist 990 (3-PW) with stock Dynamic Gold in S300
Taylormade V-Steel 5W & 3W with Grafalloy Prolaunch Red shafts (Regular Flex)
2011 Adams Tom Watson signature wedges in 52 and 56 degrees with stock steel shafts (Player's Grind)
Rife Island Series Aruba Blade Putter

 

"Loft for loft, length for length, and shaft for shaft, the ball will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless how old the iron."

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If it were me, I'd set my budget, and go find the best set of Mizunos I could find at that price point. I'm sure you could find sets ranging from under $200 up to full new retail MSRP. Doesn't really matter which one, anything in the last 15 years is going to be fine. Plus, you'll be able to answer that question that most end up asking themselves: what's the big deal about Mizunos, anyway?

 

Sure, there are a lot of really great blades from every company out there. But the Mizunos seem to be sort of a reference that folks keep coming back to. Not that they're better for all players, not by any means, but they provide a good way measure your affinity for blades, in general.

 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, DixieD said:

So which blades have more bounce? 

I’m not sure whether it is the true bounce angle or the effective bounce from camber/radius but I’ve had good luck with the following: Titleist 716 and 718; had a couple demo rounds and enjoyed the relatively recent Callaway Apex MB; from yesteryear, my favorite is Hogan Apex Redline.

 

None of these clubs have a GI sole or for that matter even a players CB sole but they do tolerate a little moisture on the course and allow for an occasional ‘slightly steep’ without requiring a wheelbarrow to replace the divot.

Edited by Aviador Naval
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TSi3 10

TS2 16.5 & 21

G425 22 & 26

ZX7 6i - PW

Vokey 54F-14, 58K-12

Spider X

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Serious question-why do people play blades besides ego? Some of the best ball strikers on tour play more forgiving clubs.  Plenty of more forgiving forged clubs with great feel, so I don't think feel is the answer. 

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Stealth OG 10.5 Ventus Red 6s

Epic flash 18deg Fujikura pro 6.0s

Maverick 21deg 7wd Fujikura pro 7.0S

5i-Aw Srixon ZX5  KBS TGI 100

52 Glide 4.0 SS KBS TGI 100

56 Glide 4.0 WS KBS TGI 100

60 Glide 4.0 TS KBS TGI 100

Lab DF3 70 deg 35.5" Accra Black

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