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Would you rather draw or fade a driver?


hypergolf

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Whatever the shot that can be hit consistently.

 

Also depending on the course and fairway setup, most courses seem to favor hazards on the right side which penalize the slice.

 

It will be nice to have the 3 wood deliver an opposite curve (say hit driver with fade then 3 wood with draw) so that all holes can be navigated without bottleneck.

Driver: Taylormade SIM, 8 degrees, VA Composite Drago 75 X-Stiff

3W: Taylormade M5 15 degrees, VA Composite Drago 75 X-Stiff

Hybrids: Titleist 915H (3-6)Project X 6.0 Flighted shafts

Irons: Bridgestone J40 (7-P), Project X 6.0 Flighted shafts

Wedges: Bridgestone J33 (50,56,60), Project X 6.0 Flighted shafts

Putter: Directed Force 2.1 Putter

Ball: Srixon Z Star XV

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Draw. When I'm swinging well, I get a nice little draw 5-10 yards, and it gives me a little extra distance that I need and can't seem to get out of the fade, unless it's firm and fast.

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Learned in the era of Persimmon Drivers and Balata balls and was taught to hit a draw to gain extra distance. Wish I could hit a cut or fade but my eye sees every shot as a right to left shot;  and if I try and hit a fade I block it right.

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How you gonna hit a 300 yard shot straight.... nearly impossible. 1000 foot shot straight is just cheeky 🐓

 

You can play a "straight one" knowing it will move left or right a tad,  that's how I play a little draw.

 

I normally play a fade cause so much more consistent for me.... but lots of pros play the draw naturally so you just need to figure that one out, but a fade is easier 😝🦆

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Fade all day with a driver. Want to avoid the hook and will be working on setting up my driver to eliminate the left side. So far I’m thinking my SIM2 10.5 turned wide up to 8.5 with my Ventus Black 6X. I want to be able to go after it and not worry about going left. 
 

If I need a draw off the tee, pull out the 3W…

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I prefer a draw for my stock driver shot with the ability to play a fade on command.  The last driver I had confidence with was a Titleist 905T driver with a UST AxivCore Green stiff shaft.  I am working with my current driver and am gaining confidence hitting a stock draw and being able to fade it on command.  Still a work in progress.

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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I say both, but it's not for the reasons many would think.  I hit a draw naturally, goes further, rolls further, etc.  

 

But a nice controlled fade - money.  

 

But I play in alot of wind.  Using wind left or right can help in cross winds etc.  Being able to go either direction for playing away trouble is great...

 

But how to not hurt the "natural" shape?  Full swing, more shoulder tilt, deep backswing.   Draw. Every time.

 

Less deep takeaway - shorter follow through but full swing, little cut, a bit lower, but controlled.   Shorter by 10-15, but fairway finder...

 

Pick your battles, but I hit alot of fairways.  Only on days when I hit the surprising "power fade" (READ:Slice) would I even consider just hitting draws all day...

 

Irons, well I suck trying to both with irons...I hit draws.   Better if I just stick to that or hit it straight.  😆

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I'm just happy I hit the fairway.

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If the question is draw or fade, I rather play a draw with the driver, since I draw all the rest of my clubs and being on the left side of the fairway usually means another draw is typically the better shot into the green (especially if there are overhanging branches).  A draw to me implies the ball isn't moving more than 15 yards right to left with the driver...totally playable

 

If the question is slice or hook, I rather play the slice of the tee.  Slices tend to go higher and land softer, so you can still land them in the left center of the fairway and hold the fairway.  Hooks you almost have to land it in the right rough to keep it in the fairway, and because it doesn't launch as high or carry as far makes it harder to avoid fairway bunkers or tress you might have to start your ball over.

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Ideally I hit it fairly straight with the ball leaking a little to the right.   It’s the only club I fade.  Everything else is usually a draw.  
 

I like it with driver because as long as I keep the body rotating I feel like I can pretty much swing as hard as I want. 

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Have you gotten on a simulator and figured out your path? Seems like you are fairly neutral, but is just figure out your tendency… if you are out to in more, play a fade… if you are in to out more , play a draw… this will hopefully keep you from overcooking anything.

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2 hours ago, Myherobobhope said:

if you are out to in more, play a fade… if you are in to out more , play a draw…

That's the conventional wisdom, but it doesn't apply to everyone. I always play in to out, not to hit a draw, but to take a slice out of the equation. If I try an out to in or even a straight back takeaway I'm headed for the woods, or the next fairway over. Even with my in to out swing I have no problem hitting a power fade, all it takes is to position the ball just forward of my left foot heel. If I move it a few inches further forward I get a draw. I've used other means to vary the shot shape, including grip changes and opening or closing the face, but over the years this is what I've found to work best for me.  

 

 

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A draw, I have a better idea where my swing is.

 

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Titleist TSR3 - @15.75 Tensei 1K Black 75X
Titleist TSR3 Hybrid - @20 Tensei 1K Black 85X

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Draw.  I know most people say they can control the fade more, but it's the opposite for me.  I've never been able to consistently control the amount of curvature on the fade, but can on a draw.

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4 hours ago, Billfitz said:

That's the conventional wisdom, but it doesn't apply to everyone. I always play in to out, not to hit a draw, but to take a slice out of the equation. If I try an out to in or even a straight back takeaway I'm headed for the woods, or the next fairway over. Even with my in to out swing I have no problem hitting a power fade, all it takes is to position the ball just forward of my left foot heel. If I move it a few inches further forward I get a draw. I've used other means to vary the shot shape, including grip changes and opening or closing the face, but over the years this is what I've found to work best for me.  

 

 

I mean… ball flight is determined by face angle in relationship to swing path… he’s changing the face angle with the settings and likely has the same swing path with his swing…  if he’s out to in and hitting a draw with a more closed face, it’s really easy to go left of left… 

 

If he has a consistent path, and can vary the face through a setting change, it makes sense to pick the option that has the best match up… draw for inside out and fade for outside in… 

As of  10/11/2021

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13 Degree Srixon 3 wood Project X Black 6.5

19 Degree Sub70 939 Pro with Proforce V2

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